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"Soft" hammers
I was browsing the MSC catalog and came across a page of soft hammers.
Brass, of course, but also copper, bronze, zinc, aluminum, lead, and babbitt. I can see lead (the softest), copper (harder), and brass (somewhat harder yet). But bronze and zinc are about the same hardness as brass (?), and about the same density. What distinguishes these three from each other, as far as their use in hammers? It seems that lead and babbitt are even more similar and yet both are offered. Why? Thanks, Bob BTW - I've always believed that brass being softer than steel, you could deliver "... a solid blow to the work without damaging it." (as MSC puts it). Don't believe it! I recently mushroomed the end of a steel shaft using a brass hammer. Fortunately it wasn't a big deal. |
Don't know the answer, but Traverse Tool (and proly MSC) has heavy hammers
w/ plastic ends (dual end), w/ a different hardness on each side. About $35 a cupla years ago. The cynical answer is that "infinite variety" keeps us so off-balance and generally confused that overall we spend much more money than we normally would. Chaos in fact breeds profit. "Deisgn" at times appears to be a random act. ---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll "Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message ... I was browsing the MSC catalog and came across a page of soft hammers. Brass, of course, but also copper, bronze, zinc, aluminum, lead, and babbitt. I can see lead (the softest), copper (harder), and brass (somewhat harder yet). But bronze and zinc are about the same hardness as brass (?), and about the same density. What distinguishes these three from each other, as far as their use in hammers? It seems that lead and babbitt are even more similar and yet both are offered. Why? Thanks, Bob BTW - I've always believed that brass being softer than steel, you could deliver "... a solid blow to the work without damaging it." (as MSC puts it). Don't believe it! I recently mushroomed the end of a steel shaft using a brass hammer. Fortunately it wasn't a big deal. |
"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message ... I was browsing the MSC catalog and came across a page of soft hammers. Brass, of course, but also copper, bronze, zinc, aluminum, lead, and babbitt. I can see lead (the softest), copper (harder), and brass (somewhat harder yet). But bronze and zinc are about the same hardness as brass (?), and about the same density. What distinguishes these three from each other, as far as their use in hammers? My guess would be personal preference, and material being worked on. I once bought a hammer that had a rubber striking surface, and a yellow plastic surface. I used it on some light sheet metal I worked on at the time. It wasn't until years later that I found out it was a glazer's hammer. I have seen deadblows, brass, rawhide, plastic, rubber of all hardnesses, wood, and a few things I can't think of right now. I am sure they all were the perfect hammer for the person using it and the purpose. Never forget. A guy can't have too many tools. It's nice to go get that perfect tool even when you only need it once a year. Case in point ........... impact driver. I got one I use about once a year. The other day, I needed to get a machine screw out that otherwise would have been a booger. Now, back to its little metal box until next year. Steve |
Bob Engelhardt wrote:
I recently mushroomed the end of a steel shaft using a brass hammer. So you need a copper hammer. Never (with some caution) managed to ruin the end of a thread. Nick -- Motormodelle / Engine Models: http://www.motor-manufaktur.de Ellwe 2FB * VTM 87 * DLM-S3a * cubic more to come ... |
"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message ... I was browsing the MSC catalog and came across a page of soft hammers. Brass, of course, but also copper, bronze, zinc, aluminum, lead, and babbitt. I can see lead (the softest), copper (harder), and brass (somewhat harder yet). But bronze and zinc are about the same hardness as brass (?), and about the same density. What distinguishes these three from each other, as far as their use in hammers? It seems that lead and babbitt are even more similar and yet both are offered. Why? Thanks, Bob BTW - I've always believed that brass being softer than steel, you could deliver "... a solid blow to the work without damaging it." (as MSC puts it). Don't believe it! I recently mushroomed the end of a steel shaft using a brass hammer. Fortunately it wasn't a big deal. Hammers made from soft metals aren't a great idea if they have the propensity to work harden. A brass (or copper) hammer will get to the point where it will easily dent steel, rendering the hammer no more useful than a ball peen. Metal soft hammers have no real place in the machine shop. You want a good hammer? Buy one that is made by Nupla, or make one that uses Nupla hammer head inserts. http://www.nuplacorp.com/ There is NO hammer on the market that comes close to the performance they provide. They provide tips in various diameters, with the most common being 1-1/2". Their color code is an indicator of the hardness of the heads------and there's one made for almost ANY type service. For the machine shop, the green heads are a perfect balance of hardness and toughness. I have used them as long as I've been in the shop, and recommend them highly. I made my first hammer right after I started in the shop, back in '57. The body is brass, with the green Nupla inserts on each end. I've had to replace the heads only about four times in all the years I've used it. Usual disclaimers. I am not affiliated with Nupla Corp. in any way, just a very happy customer. They're top notch people. Harold |
FINALLY!! I have never ever figured out which Nupla hammer inserts to go for.
I'm on it! 1½" greenies -- got it! Thanks, Harold! Grant Harold and Susan Vordos wrote: "Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message ... I was browsing the MSC catalog and came across a page of soft hammers. Brass, of course, but also copper, bronze, zinc, aluminum, lead, and babbitt. I can see lead (the softest), copper (harder), and brass (somewhat harder yet). But bronze and zinc are about the same hardness as brass (?), and about the same density. What distinguishes these three from each other, as far as their use in hammers? It seems that lead and babbitt are even more similar and yet both are offered. Why? Thanks, Bob BTW - I've always believed that brass being softer than steel, you could deliver "... a solid blow to the work without damaging it." (as MSC puts it). Don't believe it! I recently mushroomed the end of a steel shaft using a brass hammer. Fortunately it wasn't a big deal. Hammers made from soft metals aren't a great idea if they have the propensity to work harden. A brass (or copper) hammer will get to the point where it will easily dent steel, rendering the hammer no more useful than a ball peen. Metal soft hammers have no real place in the machine shop. You want a good hammer? Buy one that is made by Nupla, or make one that uses Nupla hammer head inserts. http://www.nuplacorp.com/ There is NO hammer on the market that comes close to the performance they provide. They provide tips in various diameters, with the most common being 1-1/2". Their color code is an indicator of the hardness of the heads------and there's one made for almost ANY type service. For the machine shop, the green heads are a perfect balance of hardness and toughness. I have used them as long as I've been in the shop, and recommend them highly. I made my first hammer right after I started in the shop, back in '57. The body is brass, with the green Nupla inserts on each end. I've had to replace the heads only about four times in all the years I've used it. Usual disclaimers. I am not affiliated with Nupla Corp. in any way, just a very happy customer. They're top notch people. Harold |
On Wed, 03 Aug 2005 18:01:20 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote: I was browsing the MSC catalog and came across a page of soft hammers. Brass, of course, but also copper, bronze, zinc, aluminum, lead, and babbitt. I can see lead (the softest), copper (harder), and brass (somewhat harder yet). But bronze and zinc are about the same hardness as brass (?), and about the same density. What distinguishes these three from each other, as far as their use in hammers? It seems that lead and babbitt are even more similar and yet both are offered. Why? Well there's differences in most of them. The bronze is likely harder than the brass though both will work harden as will copper and aluminum. There's a big difference between the lead and babbit hammers for sure. A lead hammer is really soft and won't last long with hard blows. But it's perfect for like pecks to knock things into alignment when machining. On the other hand the babbit is a good bit harder and while still good for aligning things in a lathe you'll have to be careful of soft materials. On the other hand it's perfect for driving a shaft out of a bearing or the like without hurting the shaft any. However I wouldn't suggest buying either a lead or babbit hammer ready made like that. Neither will hold up long for the price. For these types of hammers you really need a mold system to repour them from time to time. I have no idea about the zinc but it sounds like a lousy hammer material to me. Way to brittle. BTW - I've always believed that brass being softer than steel, you could deliver "... a solid blow to the work without damaging it." (as MSC puts it). Don't believe it! I recently mushroomed the end of a steel shaft using a brass hammer. Fortunately it wasn't a big deal. Definitely especially after it's been used a while and the faces work hardened. You either need to machine the work hardened material off from time to time or you need to anneal the hammer (probably both). Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm |
Bob Engelhardt wrote:
I was browsing the MSC catalog and came across a page of soft hammers. Brass, of course, but also copper, bronze, zinc, aluminum, lead, and babbitt. I can see lead (the softest), copper (harder), and brass (somewhat harder yet). But bronze and zinc are about the same hardness as brass (?), and about the same density. What distinguishes these three from each other, as far as their use in hammers? It seems that lead and babbitt are even more similar and yet both are offered. Why? Thanks, Bob BTW - I've always believed that brass being softer than steel, you could deliver "... a solid blow to the work without damaging it." (as MSC puts it). Don't believe it! I recently mushroomed the end of a steel shaft using a brass hammer. Fortunately it wasn't a big deal. Having worked one summer in Plant Protection - I know a little about different metals for tools. Consider yourself in a paint room - this is a 5000 sq ft or so building / block house that has a 100,000 gallon CARDOX tank outside. The Phone is larger than most home printers. All tools are Bronze because they won't spark if dropped or just used. Wrenches are Bronze..... Bronze is strong. It can be a soft steel replacement. Copper is just to soft for real tools, but hammers that beat copper might be copper so they don't import foreign materials into the surface. Always a unique reason - medical or sparking or weight... Martin -- Martin Eastburn @ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
"Grant Erwin" wrote in message ... FINALLY!! I have never ever figured out which Nupla hammer inserts to go for. I'm on it! 1½" greenies -- got it! Thanks, Harold! Grant Welcome! H |
On Wed, 03 Aug 2005 23:42:28 -0500, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote: SNIP Having worked one summer in Plant Protection - I know a little about different metals for tools. Consider yourself in a paint room - this is a 5000 sq ft or so building / block house that has a 100,000 gallon CARDOX tank outside. The Phone is larger than most home printers. All tools are Bronze because they won't spark if dropped or just used. Wrenches are Bronze..... Bronze is strong. It can be a soft steel replacement. Copper is just to soft for real tools, but hammers that beat copper might be copper so they don't import foreign materials into the surface. Always a unique reason - medical or sparking or weight... Martin Hey Martin, Hmmmm.... rather than pure bronze, more likely to have been beryllium, which is REALLY tough stuff and forgeable, and are the normally supplied tools for explosion/hazardous environment. But I know the feeling you describe about that type of plant! Take care. Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario. |
I ran a company that made bearings. And we had a Inconel job that was a
spherical bearing and when we had a visit from an inspector for a first article on the part he almost pulled the job because we had a lead hammer on the bench by the lathe. he said the bearing could be contaminated by even using the hammer on the lathe jaws. Jim "Brian Lawson" wrote in message ... On Wed, 03 Aug 2005 23:42:28 -0500, "Martin H. Eastburn" wrote: SNIP Having worked one summer in Plant Protection - I know a little about different metals for tools. Consider yourself in a paint room - this is a 5000 sq ft or so building / block house that has a 100,000 gallon CARDOX tank outside. The Phone is larger than most home printers. All tools are Bronze because they won't spark if dropped or just used. Wrenches are Bronze..... Bronze is strong. It can be a soft steel replacement. Copper is just to soft for real tools, but hammers that beat copper might be copper so they don't import foreign materials into the surface. Always a unique reason - medical or sparking or weight... Martin Hey Martin, Hmmmm.... rather than pure bronze, more likely to have been beryllium, which is REALLY tough stuff and forgeable, and are the normally supplied tools for explosion/hazardous environment. But I know the feeling you describe about that type of plant! Take care. Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario. |
Is it Possible that one would want a hammer as hard as steel that was non
magnetic? so maybe hardened copper or Brass would come close? Doug "Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message ... "Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message ... I was browsing the MSC catalog and came across a page of soft hammers. Brass, of course, but also copper, bronze, zinc, aluminum, lead, and babbitt. I can see lead (the softest), copper (harder), and brass (somewhat harder yet). But bronze and zinc are about the same hardness as brass (?), and about the same density. What distinguishes these three from each other, as far as their use in hammers? It seems that lead and babbitt are even more similar and yet both are offered. Why? Thanks, Bob BTW - I've always believed that brass being softer than steel, you could deliver "... a solid blow to the work without damaging it." (as MSC puts it). Don't believe it! I recently mushroomed the end of a steel shaft using a brass hammer. Fortunately it wasn't a big deal. Hammers made from soft metals aren't a great idea if they have the propensity to work harden. A brass (or copper) hammer will get to the point where it will easily dent steel, rendering the hammer no more useful than a ball peen. Metal soft hammers have no real place in the machine shop. You want a good hammer? Buy one that is made by Nupla, or make one that uses Nupla hammer head inserts. http://www.nuplacorp.com/ There is NO hammer on the market that comes close to the performance they provide. They provide tips in various diameters, with the most common being 1-1/2". Their color code is an indicator of the hardness of the heads------and there's one made for almost ANY type service. For the machine shop, the green heads are a perfect balance of hardness and toughness. I have used them as long as I've been in the shop, and recommend them highly. I made my first hammer right after I started in the shop, back in '57. The body is brass, with the green Nupla inserts on each end. I've had to replace the heads only about four times in all the years I've used it. Usual disclaimers. I am not affiliated with Nupla Corp. in any way, just a very happy customer. They're top notch people. Harold |
"Doug Schultz" wrote in message news:DUMIe.123755$s54.69685@pd7tw2no... Is it Possible that one would want a hammer as hard as steel that was non magnetic? so maybe hardened copper or Brass would come close? Doug I can imagine such a scenario. A beryllium copper hammer might be a nice addition to a well equipped toolbox, but for common use, it's a serious mistake to have such a hammer available, especially if its the only *soft* hammer. Far too many people ignore the fact that copper alloys work harden and can do serious damage to finished projects, therefore are inclined to pick up a brass or copper hammer, thinking they're soft. Not only are they rarely soft enough to provide the necessary protection, but they also streak off, leaving unsightly smears in the dents they leave behind. Plastic (Nupla) hammers don't do that, and they rarely fail to provide the necessary blows needed for most applications. Making one from brass, with the proper inserts for the application, insures that they do. Harold "Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message ... "Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message ... I was browsing the MSC catalog and came across a page of soft hammers. Brass, of course, but also copper, bronze, zinc, aluminum, lead, and babbitt. I can see lead (the softest), copper (harder), and brass (somewhat harder yet). But bronze and zinc are about the same hardness as brass (?), and about the same density. What distinguishes these three from each other, as far as their use in hammers? It seems that lead and babbitt are even more similar and yet both are offered. Why? Thanks, Bob BTW - I've always believed that brass being softer than steel, you could deliver "... a solid blow to the work without damaging it." (as MSC puts it). Don't believe it! I recently mushroomed the end of a steel shaft using a brass hammer. Fortunately it wasn't a big deal. Hammers made from soft metals aren't a great idea if they have the propensity to work harden. A brass (or copper) hammer will get to the point where it will easily dent steel, rendering the hammer no more useful than a ball peen. Metal soft hammers have no real place in the machine shop. You want a good hammer? Buy one that is made by Nupla, or make one that uses Nupla hammer head inserts. http://www.nuplacorp.com/ There is NO hammer on the market that comes close to the performance they provide. They provide tips in various diameters, with the most common being 1-1/2". Their color code is an indicator of the hardness of the heads------and there's one made for almost ANY type service. For the machine shop, the green heads are a perfect balance of hardness and toughness. I have used them as long as I've been in the shop, and recommend them highly. I made my first hammer right after I started in the shop, back in '57. The body is brass, with the green Nupla inserts on each end. I've had to replace the heads only about four times in all the years I've used it. Usual disclaimers. I am not affiliated with Nupla Corp. in any way, just a very happy customer. They're top notch people. Harold |
On Fri, 5 Aug 2005 10:16:31 -0700, the opaque "Harold and Susan
Vordos" clearly wrote: "Doug Schultz" wrote in message news:DUMIe.123755$s54.69685@pd7tw2no... Is it Possible that one would want a hammer as hard as steel that was non magnetic? so maybe hardened copper or Brass would come close? I can imagine such a scenario. A beryllium copper hammer might be a nice addition to a well equipped toolbox, but for common use, it's a serious mistake to have such a hammer available, especially if its the only *soft* hammer. Far too many people ignore the fact that copper alloys work harden and can do serious damage to finished projects, therefore are inclined to pick up a brass or copper hammer, thinking they're soft. Not only are they rarely soft enough to provide the necessary protection, but they also streak off, leaving unsightly smears in the dents they leave behind. Plastic (Nupla) hammers don't do that, and they rarely fail to provide the necessary blows needed for most applications. Making one from brass, with the proper inserts for the application, insures that they do. So, who sells Nupla holders and greenies at a discount. They're NOT cheap, are they? Travers gets $25.04 + $6.10 for each tip. SPS-155 holder + 2ea 15T tips + shipping = over $40 for a hammah? Ouch! http://travers.com/pdfshow.asp?p=969 -------------------------------------------------------------------- Unfortunately, the term "Homo Sapiens" is a goal, not a description. ---- http://www.diversify.com Web Design for YOUR Business! -------------------------------------------------------------------- |
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... snip------ So, who sells Nupla holders and greenies at a discount. They're NOT cheap, are they? Travers gets $25.04 + $6.10 for each tip. SPS-155 holder + 2ea 15T tips + shipping = over $40 for a hammah? Ouch! http://travers.com/pdfshow.asp?p=969 Yeah, they're proud of them, but making one is a fun project and saves a little money, assuming you have a piece of material you don't cherish. That way all you have to buy is the handle (wood is more than adequate) and tips. They're worth the money, regardless of your approach. You'll use it for years, facing only the occasional replacement of tips. Harold |
On Fri, 5 Aug 2005 17:53:16 -0700, the opaque "Harold and Susan
Vordos" clearly wrote: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message .. . snip------ So, who sells Nupla holders and greenies at a discount. They're NOT cheap, are they? Travers gets $25.04 + $6.10 for each tip. SPS-155 holder + 2ea 15T tips + shipping = over $40 for a hammah? Ouch! http://travers.com/pdfshow.asp?p=969 Yeah, they're proud of them, but making one is a fun project and saves a little money, assuming you have a piece of material you don't cherish. That way all you have to buy is the handle (wood is more than adequate) and tips. They're worth the money, regardless of your approach. You'll use it for years, facing only the occasional replacement of tips. Yeah, turning a handle vould be verry zimple, vouldn't it? Thanks for the idea. I've always found rubber too soft and plastic to hard/brittle for my rare non-metallic needs. I'll have to order some of those tips and go from there. -------------------------------------------------------------------- Unfortunately, the term "Homo Sapiens" is a goal, not a description. ---- http://www.diversify.com Web Design for YOUR Business! -------------------------------------------------------------------- |
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Fri, 5 Aug 2005 17:53:16 -0700, the opaque "Harold and Susan Vordos" clearly wrote: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message .. . snip------ So, who sells Nupla holders and greenies at a discount. They're NOT cheap, are they? Travers gets $25.04 + $6.10 for each tip. SPS-155 holder + 2ea 15T tips + shipping = over $40 for a hammah? Ouch! http://travers.com/pdfshow.asp?p=969 Yeah, they're proud of them, but making one is a fun project and saves a little money, assuming you have a piece of material you don't cherish. That way all you have to buy is the handle (wood is more than adequate) and tips. They're worth the money, regardless of your approach. You'll use it for years, facing only the occasional replacement of tips. Yeah, turning a handle vould be verry zimple, vouldn't it? Thanks for the idea. I've always found rubber too soft and plastic to hard/brittle for my rare non-metallic needs. I'll have to order some of those tips and go from there. I'd buy a replacement wooden handle, not make one. It should have an irregular end to orient the hammer head properly, and keep it from spinning. I think I'm on my third handle, but it might be only the second one. You don't have to change them often. Hardware stores used to sell handles for only a couple bucks, made of hickory. Usually with a wedge. Mill a like profile in the hammer head with a slight taper on the top end, so the wedge locks the head on. Start by milling the proper profile for the handle to fit, then tilt the part in your vise and re-cut about half of each side and face with a slight angle. It need not be anything precision, just establish a larger end so it locks the head in place when the wedge is pressed in place. You'll come to rely on a hammer like this for almost everything. You won't be disappointed. Harold |
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Fri, 5 Aug 2005 17:53:16 -0700, the opaque "Harold and Susan Vordos" clearly wrote: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... snip------ So, who sells Nupla holders and greenies at a discount. They're NOT cheap, are they? Travers gets $25.04 + $6.10 for each tip. SPS-155 holder + 2ea 15T tips + shipping = over $40 for a hammah? Ouch! http://travers.com/pdfshow.asp?p=969 Yeah, they're proud of them, but making one is a fun project and saves a little money, assuming you have a piece of material you don't cherish. That way all you have to buy is the handle (wood is more than adequate) and tips. They're worth the money, regardless of your approach. You'll use it for years, facing only the occasional replacement of tips. Yeah, turning a handle vould be verry zimple, vouldn't it? Thanks for the idea. I've always found rubber too soft and plastic to hard/brittle for my rare non-metallic needs. I'll have to order some of those tips and go from there. I'd buy a replacement wooden handle, not make one. It should have an irregular end to orient the hammer head properly, and keep it from spinning. I think I'm on my third handle, but it might be only the second one. You don't have to change them often. Hardware stores used to sell handles for only a couple bucks, made of hickory. Usually with a wedge. Mill a like profile in the hammer head with a slight taper on the top end, so the wedge locks the head on. Start by milling the proper profile for the handle to fit, then tilt the part in your vise and re-cut about half of each side and face with a slight angle. It need not be anything precision, just establish a larger end so it locks the head in place when the wedge is pressed in place. You'll come to rely on a hammer like this for almost everything. You won't be disappointed. Harold Just spend the money and get a Lixie. Comes with a wood handle that is grooved in the grip are. Don't like fibreglass handles, too springy. And those one-piece cast abortions? I had one once, gave it away. mj |
"michael" wrote in message ... snip-- Just spend the money and get a Lixie. Comes with a wood handle that is grooved in the grip are. Don't like fibreglass handles, too springy. And those one-piece cast abortions? I had one once, gave it away. mj What the hell's a Lixie, hippie? I already told everyone that the Nupla hammers are as good as they get. H |
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:
"michael" wrote in message ... snip-- Just spend the money and get a Lixie. Comes with a wood handle that is grooved in the grip are. Don't like fibreglass handles, too springy. And those one-piece cast abortions? I had one once, gave it away. mj What the hell's a Lixie, hippie? I already told everyone that the Nupla hammers are as good as they get. H Hippie? Me? You may be too old a dog to learn anything, but...G They have the Lixie in MSC BigBook. Wood handle so ya can feel what yer doin. And shot in the head in two weight amounts for each available face diameter. I just noticed they offer a 3 inch face with 116 and 168 ounce head weights. Pack a punch for sure. Later, oldtimer m |
"michael" wrote in message ... Harold and Susan Vordos wrote: "michael" wrote in message ... snip-- Just spend the money and get a Lixie. Comes with a wood handle that is grooved in the grip are. Don't like fibreglass handles, too springy. And those one-piece cast abortions? I had one once, gave it away. mj What the hell's a Lixie, hippie? I already told everyone that the Nupla hammers are as good as they get. H Hippie? Me? Yep! You, you old goat. When you gonna shave? You may be too old a dog to learn anything, but...G Who you callin' old? They have the Lixie in MSC BigBook. Wood handle so ya can feel what yer doin. And shot in the head in two weight amounts for each available face diameter. I just noticed they offer a 3 inch face with 116 and 168 ounce head weights. Pack a punch for sure. That's obviously for the big stuff. I like 'em smaller than that. I have two of the Nupla variety, one is the 1" model. Great for light tapping. If I'd get off my butt, I have a set of 2" heads, one red, one green, Nupla. It would make a great heavy duty model. I'm too tight to buy one of the Lixie models, but probably don't need one that heavy and large, anyway. Thanks for the info, though. I'll have to check it out and see if they're in my old MSC big book, circa '95/'96. I ain't bought anything for a long time! Later, oldtimer m Snort. H |
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:
I'd buy a replacement wooden handle, not make one. I use some several homemade handles I like a lot, got one that's a piece of hocky stick, another that was a hatchet handle (nice little axe handle shape, one of my favorites), a couple were sticks from the woodpile (one ash, one hickory, nice round little branches). I figure I might as well use what I have on hand instead of taking the same time to go to the store and buy a new handle- but if the wood has any bend in it you have to be sure to get it aligned wiht the head or it'll be an irritating hammer to use.. John |
"JohnM" wrote in message m... snip--- you have to be sure to get it aligned wiht the head or it'll be an irritating hammer to use.. John Yep. That's the chief reason I don't like a round handle. Damned hammer is always in your hand all wonky. H |
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:
"JohnM" wrote in message m... snip--- you have to be sure to get it aligned wiht the head or it'll be an irritating hammer to use.. John Yep. That's the chief reason I don't like a round handle. Damned hammer is always in your hand all wonky. H Now that you mention it, I've got one with the end of a long-handled shovel handle for a handle and it is a bit different to use. John |
"JohnM" wrote in message m... Harold and Susan Vordos wrote: "JohnM" wrote in message m... snip--- you have to be sure to get it aligned wiht the head or it'll be an irritating hammer to use.. John Yep. That's the chief reason I don't like a round handle. Damned hammer is always in your hand all wonky. H Now that you mention it, I've got one with the end of a long-handled shovel handle for a handle and it is a bit different to use. John Precisely! It's amazing how our brain orients a hammer when the handle has the slightest amount of irregularity. When I pick up my soft hammer, there's never a question where the head is pointed------and I never look at it, just at the target. Doesn't work with a round handle----even when I look first. Somehow it almost always manages to be askew. Harold |
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