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0.125 Cu plate strength
I want to make handrails for the stairs on my deck
out of 1 1/2 inch Cu pipe. The problem is I cannot find reasonably priced flanges. My thought is to cut 3" dia circles out of 0.125 Cu plate and solder end caps to them. Will these be strong enough for the application? Any suggestions on where to find the Cu plate? Art |
Wood Butcher wrote:
I want to make handrails for the stairs on my deck out of 1 1/2 inch Cu pipe. The problem is I cannot find reasonably priced flanges. My thought is to cut 3" dia circles out of 0.125 Cu plate and solder end caps to them. Will these be strong enough for the application? Any suggestions on where to find the Cu plate? *disclaimer* I am not qualified to give you an authoratative answer on a safety-critical issue like this..... If it were me, I'd be more concerned about the solder joint than the copper plate. I'd bolt the plate to the end cap internally and hard- solder. |
Jim Stewart wrote:
Wood Butcher wrote: I want to make handrails for the stairs on my deck out of 1 1/2 inch Cu pipe. The problem is I cannot find reasonably priced flanges. My thought is to cut 3" dia circles out of 0.125 Cu plate and solder end caps to them. Will these be strong enough for the application? Any suggestions on where to find the Cu plate? *disclaimer* I am not qualified to give you an authoratative answer on a safety-critical issue like this..... If it were me, I'd be more concerned about the solder joint than the copper plate. I'd bolt the plate to the end cap internally and hard- solder. That solder is going to be really ugly, have you considered phosphorous bronze? Good color match, much stronger and tougher joint too. |
That solder is going to be really ugly, have you considered phosphorous bronze? Good color match, much stronger and tougher joint too. Try a plumbing wholesaler.. 1-1/2" Cu Male adapter and an inch and a half Brass Floor Flange. Flanges aren't all that square, but chuck 'em up in the lathe with the male adaper soldered on and you can come very close.... Bill in Phx |
Hope your deck is not to high off the ground.
Copper tube is going to be far to weak to use as a railing and the heat of soldering is going to weaken it even more. Hard drawn copper has a yield stregth somewhere around 10,000 PSI compared to mild steel at 36,000 PSI. and the Young's Modulus is less than half. If someone falls against it it stands a good chance of collapsing. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "Wood Butcher" wrote in message ... I want to make handrails for the stairs on my deck out of 1 1/2 inch Cu pipe. The problem is I cannot find reasonably priced flanges. My thought is to cut 3" dia circles out of 0.125 Cu plate and solder end caps to them. Will these be strong enough for the application? Any suggestions on where to find the Cu plate? Art |
One of the nearby houses has copper pipe for a railing, but I understand
that there is steel pipe inside, with the copper pipe only a sleeve for appearance. Not sure you can do this with a handrail, since it cannot rotate, and it might feel loose and strange. Richard Wood Butcher wrote: I want to make handrails for the stairs on my deck out of 1 1/2 inch Cu pipe. The problem is I cannot find reasonably priced flanges. My thought is to cut 3" dia circles out of 0.125 Cu plate and solder end caps to them. Will these be strong enough for the application? Any suggestions on where to find the Cu plate? Art |
A couple of blind rivets or a pin will stop the rolling.
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Thanks for all the replies.
The bolt idea sounds like a good one and I'll check out floor flanges. I'm not familiar with phosphorous bronze. I assume this is a brazing process and not a soldering one? Does this require an OA torch or is a mapp torch adequate? This project is just a handrail, not the safety rail, and will be supported every 4' by a 4x4 post. If somebody fell against it they'd have to go thru both rails. Art |
Wood Butcher wrote:
Thanks for all the replies. The bolt idea sounds like a good one and I'll check out floor flanges. I'm not familiar with phosphorous bronze. I assume this is a brazing process and not a soldering one? Does this require an OA torch or is a mapp torch adequate? This project is just a handrail, not the safety rail, and will be supported every 4' by a 4x4 post. If somebody fell against it they'd have to go thru both rails. Art I'm pretty sure you'd need OA, at a guess you need about 1000F. Very much, in my opinion, the best way to go with something like this. John |
A hard solder commonly used on copper is Silphos. It is mostly copper,
but with a little silver and phosphorus. Plain propane is hot enough, but with the size of your part you will either have to figure out a way to keep the heat from escaping or use multiple torches ( or both ). If I were doing it, I would use some insulating firebrick to surround the part and a couple of propane torches. I prefer the rods with 15% silver over the ones with 5% silver. The Silphos should be available at any welding outlet and probably at a plumbing supply house. Get some and try it out on some scraps of copper. As for where to get copper...........in Seattle try Alaskan Copper and Brass. Dan |
wrote in message oups.com... A hard solder commonly used on copper is Silphos. It is mostly copper, but with a little silver and phosphorus. Plain propane is hot enough, but with the size of your part you will either have to figure out a way to keep the heat from escaping or use multiple torches ( or both ). If I were doing it, I would use some insulating firebrick to surround the part and a couple of propane torches. I prefer the rods with 15% silver over the ones with 5% silver. The Silphos should be available at any welding outlet and probably at a plumbing supply house. Get some and try it out on some scraps of copper. As for where to get copper...........in Seattle try Alaskan Copper and Brass. Dan Any welding supply shop will have it. Lane |
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