I got a machine in today, a little one, couldn't pass it up. Major cosmetic
issue is it sat too near a concrete pour or something and got spattered a long
time ago, and, like most construction machinery, never got cleaned off. It
doesn't affect the function but I don't like it and want to remove it. Stuff is
tenacious! I want to remove the concrete but leave the paint, decals etc. alone.
Any ideas? I've only tried 409 and a rag and the edge of a credit card so far.

GWE

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I got a machine in today, a little one, couldn't pass it up. Major cosmetic
issue is it sat too near a concrete pour or something and got spattered a
long time ago, and, like most construction machinery, never got cleaned
off. It doesn't affect the function but I don't like it and want to remove
it. Stuff is tenacious! I want to remove the concrete but leave the paint,
decals etc. alone. Any ideas? I've only tried 409 and a rag and the edge of
a credit card so far.

GWE

If you're *patient*: get some 9% vinegar and apply using a "pad" of fabric
or paper to let it soak in/on. The stuff is mild enough to not bother
oil-based enamels but will eat the cement. Reapply/refresh as needed. [You
can also use the stuff to clean your coffee maker. g]

If you're *not patient*: try using either a router or a Dremel (with a
router attachment) and a flat-ended diamond bit. Adjust the height so that
the bit _does not_ extend outside the baseplate. [The objective is to knock
off the particles *without* making contact with anything else.]

Once you've knocked off the high points and big chunks, it's time to gather
up your patience and apply the 9% vinegar with a "pad". G

Muriatic acid. It's what the masons use to clean up mortar. It
shouldn't affect the paint, but you might want to do a trial in an
inconspicuous spot.

Bob

Grant Erwin writes:

Stuff is tenacious!

Acid: CLR (mild) or muriatic (not mild).

Funny how portland cement sticks to stuff and lasts forever where it isn't
wanted. But your driveway is just falling apart.

Ever notice how intersections are just full of spilled concrete where the
overloaded trucks come to a stop? And they say it doesn't stick to
asphalt.

On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 12:17:13 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

I got a machine in today, a little one, couldn't pass it up. Major cosmetic
issue is it sat too near a concrete pour or something and got spattered a long
time ago, and, like most construction machinery, never got cleaned off. It
doesn't affect the function but I don't like it and want to remove it. Stuff is
tenacious! I want to remove the concrete but leave the paint, decals etc. alone.
Any ideas? I've only tried 409 and a rag and the edge of a credit card so far.

GWE
Hey Grant, what about that stuff that eats calcium deposits off your
shower head? Oh, BTW, I figured out how to make that grinder spin
faster. I just spin it up with a drill motor. And you said it couldn't
be done. So there.
Eric

Richard J Kinch wrote:

Grant Erwin writes:


Stuff is tenacious!


Acid: CLR (mild) or muriatic (not mild).

OK, I'll bite, what's CLR?

I cannot imagine any paint that can stand up to HCl, either. This is a painted
surface with complicated decals which can't come off and aren't easily replaced.
Even if the paint could stand up to muriatic, I very much doubt the decals would.

Grant

Grant Erwin wrote:
...
I cannot imagine any paint that can stand up to HCl, either. ...

I routinely de-rust with muriatic/HCl. There is often some paint on the
rusty piece and I've not noticed that the acid has affected it. If
there has been an effect, it was very minor. But I still suggest a trial.

... Even if the paint could stand up to muriatic, I very
much doubt the decals would.

Well, the acid can be very aggressive with some materials, but totally
benign with others. It really does depend. I would not be at all
surprised if it did not affect the paint or the decals. But I can't say
for sure.

Bob

Grant Erwin wrote:
I got a machine in today, a little one, couldn't pass it up. Major
cosmetic issue is it sat too near a concrete pour or something and got
spattered a long time ago, and, like most construction machinery, never
got cleaned off. It doesn't affect the function but I don't like it and
want to remove it. Stuff is tenacious! I want to remove the concrete but
leave the paint, decals etc. alone. Any ideas? I've only tried 409 and a
rag and the edge of a credit card so far.

GWE

When I had my floor poured for my shop the guy was super sloppy and splashed
concrete all over the side of my metal building. I was angry and he offered
to sand it off and repaint it which I know would not have turned out nice. He
did say that the concrete companies used "something" to clean off their trucks
and didn't think it affected paint but didn't know what it was. I searched the
internet and found some similar "something". I called the company and they
said it would cost me $80 to ship a gallon because it was considered haz. I
told the guy my sob story and he said "hold on a second..." He came back and
said quietly that it was just muratic acid and a detergent. He told me to try
the acid in a hidden spot. I did and it worked great. I used a plastic bristle
brush that the acid melted but it didn't take much brushing. I also hosed
it off with water as I went.

Grant Erwin wrote:
I got a machine in today, a little one, couldn't pass it up. Major
cosmetic issue is it sat too near a concrete pour or something and got
spattered a long time ago, and, like most construction machinery, never
got cleaned off. It doesn't affect the function but I don't like it and
want to remove it. Stuff is tenacious! I want to remove the concrete but
leave the paint, decals etc. alone. Any ideas? I've only tried 409 and a
rag and the edge of a credit card so far.

GWE
Bleach ?
HCL ?

It will eat the lime out and maybe frag the stuck on stuff.
Maybe some on a paper towel and let it sit over night.

It might mess up the paint. Depending on the paint.

Might cover paint with oil or grease then it should be easier on it.

Martin

--
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

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"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Richard J Kinch wrote:

Grant Erwin writes:


Stuff is tenacious!


Acid: CLR (mild) or muriatic (not mild).

OK, I'll bite, what's CLR?

I cannot imagine any paint that can stand up to HCl, either. This is a
painted
surface with complicated decals which can't come off and aren't easily
replaced.
Even if the paint could stand up to muriatic, I very much doubt the decals
would.

Grant

Follow your hunch. HCL (Muriatic) will do serious damage.

Harold

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Richard J Kinch wrote:

Grant Erwin writes:


Stuff is tenacious!


Acid: CLR (mild) or muriatic (not mild).

OK, I'll bite, what's CLR?

A commercial name, Calcium, Lime, Rust. An acidic cleaner, probably at
Walmart.

On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 02:57:00 -0500, the opaque "bw"
spake:


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Richard J Kinch wrote:

Grant Erwin writes:


Stuff is tenacious!


Acid: CLR (mild) or muriatic (not mild).

OK, I'll bite, what's CLR?

A commercial name, Calcium, Lime, Rust. An acidic cleaner, probably at
Walmart.

It's quite similar to LimeAway, which should also work. Then again, a
gallon of muriatic acid was only $3.65 from the farm store here, and
it works well on stubborn toilet rust stains.


----------------------------------------------
Never attempt to traverse a chasm in two leaps
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================== =========

On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 16:33:16 -0700, Grant Erwin wrote:

Richard J Kinch wrote:

Grant Erwin writes:


Stuff is tenacious!


Acid: CLR (mild) or muriatic (not mild).

OK, I'll bite, what's CLR?

I cannot imagine any paint that can stand up to HCl, either. This is a painted
surface with complicated decals which can't come off and aren't easily replaced.
Even if the paint could stand up to muriatic, I very much doubt the decals would.

Smear Vaseline all over the paint and decals, and just dab the acid onto
the concrete with a Q-tip. Don't get any Vaseline on the concrete.

Cleaning the Vaseline off, while leaving the paint and decals, is, of
course, left as an exercise for the reader. ;-)

Good Luck!
Rich

On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 22:40:00 -0500, "lionslair at consolidated dot
net" "lionslair at consolidated dot net" wrote:

Grant Erwin wrote:
I got a machine in today, a little one, couldn't pass it up. Major
cosmetic issue is it sat too near a concrete pour or something and got
spattered a long time ago, and, like most construction machinery, never
got cleaned off. It doesn't affect the function but I don't like it and
want to remove it. Stuff is tenacious! I want to remove the concrete but
leave the paint, decals etc. alone. Any ideas? I've only tried 409 and a
rag and the edge of a credit card so far.

GWE
Bleach ?
HCL ?

It will eat the lime out and maybe frag the stuck on stuff.
Maybe some on a paper towel and let it sit over night.

It might mess up the paint. Depending on the paint.

Might cover paint with oil or grease then it should be easier on it.

Martin

The time for the oil/grease was BEFORE the concrete was poured.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 02:57:00 -0500, the opaque "bw"
spake:


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Richard J Kinch wrote:

Grant Erwin writes:


Stuff is tenacious!


Acid: CLR (mild) or muriatic (not mild).

OK, I'll bite, what's CLR?

A commercial name, Calcium, Lime, Rust. An acidic cleaner, probably at
Walmart.

It's quite similar to LimeAway, which should also work. Then again, a
gallon of muriatic acid was only $3.65 from the farm store here, and
it works well on stubborn toilet rust stains.

The problem with using HCL for such an application is that it will encourage
anything ferrous this in the proximity to rust, even when it never makes
intimate contact with the acid. When I refined, I used it by the drum.
In spite of the fact that I kept a negative pressure in the lab at almost
all times, there wasn't anything ferrous that didn't have surface rusting,
even stainless. It is correspondingly hard on aluminum, zinc and other
metals. Personally, I wouldn't use it on anything I cherished. It does
make a great rust remover, but it doesn't limit itself to oxidized iron.
Given enough time, it will completely dissolve steel.

Harold

On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 01:43:46 -0700, the opaque "Harold and Susan
Vordos" spake:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

It's quite similar to LimeAway, which should also work. Then again, a
gallon of muriatic acid was only $3.65 from the farm store here, and
it works well on stubborn toilet rust stains.

The problem with using HCL for such an application is that it will encourage
anything ferrous this in the proximity to rust, even when it never makes
intimate contact with the acid. When I refined, I used it by the drum.
In spite of the fact that I kept a negative pressure in the lab at almost
all times, there wasn't anything ferrous that didn't have surface rusting,
even stainless. It is correspondingly hard on aluminum, zinc and other
metals. Personally, I wouldn't use it on anything I cherished. It does
make a great rust remover, but it doesn't limit itself to oxidized iron.
Given enough time, it will completely dissolve steel.

Isn't that why it's neutralized after treatment, Harold?

What is your preferred derusting method now?

What do you think of Salt 'n Vinegar water?


--------------------------------------------
-- I'm in touch with my Inner Curmudgeon. --
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
================================================== ==========

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 01:43:46 -0700, the opaque "Harold and Susan
Vordos" spake:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

It's quite similar to LimeAway, which should also work. Then again, a
gallon of muriatic acid was only $3.65 from the farm store here, and
it works well on stubborn toilet rust stains.

The problem with using HCL for such an application is that it will
encourage
anything ferrous this in the proximity to rust, even when it never makes
intimate contact with the acid. When I refined, I used it by the
drum.
In spite of the fact that I kept a negative pressure in the lab at almost
all times, there wasn't anything ferrous that didn't have surface
rusting,
even stainless. It is correspondingly hard on aluminum, zinc and other
metals. Personally, I wouldn't use it on anything I cherished. It
does
make a great rust remover, but it doesn't limit itself to oxidized iron.
Given enough time, it will completely dissolve steel.

Isn't that why it's neutralized after treatment, Harold?

Yeah, but you can't always neutralize everything that has the potential to
be exposed. I think that's my point. I'd recommend using HCL only under
very strange circumstances. Removing zinc (galvanizing) might be one of
them. One of the things I didn't like very well about HCL is it isn't
uncommon for it to single out spots and erode holes. I don't understand
why, but I've sure as hell seen it. It does take a long time, but deep
rusting would present the perfect opportunity.


What is your preferred derusting method now?

Hard to say, for there are always exceptions, but my preferred method tends
to be my blast cabinet. If I want rust off something that doesn't lend
itself to blasting, and I had to turn to chemicals, I'd next use phosphoric
acid. I've used it on steel doors and can't think of a better way to go.
It not only removes rust and limits the ability to reform, but prepares
surfaces for better adhesion when painting. Auto body guys know it as
metal prep..

What do you think of Salt 'n Vinegar water?

I've never tried it, but I will probably use that method when I start
melting rusted steel scrap for casting. Eliminating rust before melting
yields better quality iron (steel is inoculated properly to convert to
iron).

Harold