Was just wondering if the pinouts on the 14 and 17 amphenol control
cables are straight through? That is, A-A, B-B, C-C, etc...?
It looks like only 9 pins are used, A-E,G,I,J,K. I'd rather roll my
own than shell out $200 for an OEM cable (robbery)
Anyone have a source of cheap amphenols? (or extra cables for sale?
:^)

(chrisg) wrote:

Was just wondering if the pinouts on the 14 and 17 amphenol control
cables are straight through? That is, A-A, B-B, C-C, etc...?
It looks like only 9 pins are used, A-E,G,I,J,K. I'd rather roll my
own than shell out $200 for an OEM cable (robbery)
Anyone have a source of cheap amphenols? (or extra cables for sale?
:^)

Amphenol connectors tend to be $pendy. Ebay! Download the pdf
catalogs from Amphenol to help with deciphering the part numbers.

Methinks that cables may be a high profit margin item. The
interconnecting cable for the Honda EU series inverters come to mind.

In article , Ms. says...

(chrisg) wrote:

Was just wondering if the pinouts on the 14 and 17 amphenol control
cables are straight through? That is, A-A, B-B, C-C, etc...?
It looks like only 9 pins are used, A-E,G,I,J,K. I'd rather roll my
own than shell out $200 for an OEM cable (robbery)
Anyone have a source of cheap amphenols? (or extra cables for sale?
:^)

Amphenol connectors tend to be $pendy. Ebay! Download the pdf
catalogs from Amphenol to help with deciphering the part numbers.

Methinks that cables may be a high profit margin item. The
interconnecting cable for the Honda EU series inverters come to mind.

Connectors in general are high ticket items, the good ones
that are rugged field-serviceable, and with high interconnect
reliability, are even more so. The amphenol M/S series
such as these qualify as 'good ones.' That's why they're used
in welders like this.

One approach would be to purchase the connector from a supply
house like Newark (they often stock many of the more common
varieties - but lead times in general for connectors can be
months) and wire up the cable yourself.

However doing so will lead one to the conclusion that maybe
that two hundred dollar cable isn't robbery after all. I can
wire a multi-pin connector like that in a half hour or so,
but that's because I've done about a bazillion of them and
have a microscope and all the right tools and so on.
(the connector alone will cost about fifty bucks or so)

Another approach if the real amphenol connector is too expensive
is to purchase a generic connector like a Molex or a Connexall
from Newark and replace the receptacle on the welder. Or,
you could remove the connector on the welder altogether and
just splice the conductors from your cable right into the
machine.

For bonus points you have to strip the wires with a dull
pocketknife, and use a bunch of those tiny ceramic wire
nuts to hook them all together, and then wrap the resulting
bundle with a few yards of black friction tape.

Then, and *only* then, will you have an electrical job
that can be identified as having been done by a welder!



Jim

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In article ,
says...

However doing so will lead one to the conclusion that maybe
that two hundred dollar cable isn't robbery after all. I can
wire a multi-pin connector like that in a half hour or so,
but that's because I've done about a bazillion of them and
have a microscope and all the right tools and so on.

Why when I was a lad, we had to solder the Amphenol
connectors for Raytheon marine radars while lying on our
sides in a sail locker on a rocking boat. g These were
large multiconductor cables with multiple strands of coax
and several shields. The instructions were very detailed
and ran to several pages. I always considered it a minor
miracle when the radar actually worked after installation.

(the connector alone will cost about fifty bucks or so)

Another approach if the real amphenol connector is too expensive
is to purchase a generic connector like a Molex or a Connexall
from Newark and replace the receptacle on the welder.

The Amp circular plastic connectors are a pretty good
compromise. Not quite as rugged as the Amphenols, but very
reliable, easily available, and much less expensive.

Ned Simmons

Was just wondering if the pinouts on the 14 and 17 amphenol control
cables are straight through?

Use a continuity tester to find out, then put the results on the web, or in the
dropbox.

I'd rather roll my
own than shell out $200 for an OEM cable (robbery)

Well, the crimper can be expensive. And soldering takes time. And if you make a
mistake, will the welder blow up?

Digi-Key sells LOTS of prime connectors: 1-800-digi-key to start, then
digikey.com, then scan your connector and email it to a tech there.

A scan on an accurate scanner will help them a lot more than a pic with a
camera.



Yours,

Doug Goncz, Replikon Research, Seven Corners, VA
Unpublished work Copyright 2003 Doug Goncz
Fair use and Usenet distribution without restriction or fee
Civil and criminal penalties for circumvention of any embedded encryption

Doug Goncz wrote:

I'd rather roll my
own than shell out $200 for an OEM cable (robbery)

Well, the crimper can be expensive. And soldering takes time. And if you make a
mistake, will the welder blow up?

If we take that attitude, we'd never make anything.

Ted

In article , Ted says...

Well, the crimper can be expensive. And soldering takes time.
And if you make a
mistake, will the welder blow up?

If we take that attitude, we'd never make anything.

Well, we'd never make anything - that blew up!

Jim

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please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
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