Did any one used any of Stripped-Thread Repair Epoxy products?

I need to repair badly stripped threads in my Drill Press downfeed hub. Hub is the part
where three feed handles are attached.
Hub seems to be made of cast iron or some other very brittle steel that can't stand
jerky movements of handles. Large pieces of thread teeth chipped out and handles are
very loose.

What is best to use in this case Epoxy or metal threaded inserts?
Metal inserts would be harder for me to do since I'll be using cordless drill to make
holes in brittle metal (my drill press is obviously out of order)

BTW Hub is hollow inside so there is not much "meat" to hold on for inserts


Thanks

Best is to make a new one from tool steel. Second best is to get another
one cast from aluminum, using yours as a mold, and machine that one.

After that the options are all bad. You can try carefully removing all
of the threads, cleaning the bore meticulously, and epoxying in the handle
(after roughing the mating surface). You may have some luck with helicoils
but if as I suspect the part is made of pot metal, it likely won't hold.

You may be able to buy a replacement part, depending on your machine's
manufacturer or distributor (i.e. Jet/Grizzly/Delta/Ridgid/DeWalt/Craftsman).

Good luck. You're going to need it.

GWE

Alex wrote:

Did any one used any of Stripped-Thread Repair Epoxy products?

I need to repair badly stripped threads in my Drill Press downfeed hub.
Hub is the part where three feed handles are attached.
Hub seems to be made of cast iron or some other very brittle steel that
can't stand jerky movements of handles. Large pieces of thread teeth
chipped out and handles are very loose.

What is best to use in this case Epoxy or metal threaded inserts?
Metal inserts would be harder for me to do since I'll be using cordless
drill to make holes in brittle metal (my drill press is obviously out of
order)

BTW Hub is hollow inside so there is not much "meat" to hold on for inserts


Thanks

"Grant Erwin" wrote: (clip) Good luck. You're going to need it. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I agree. Those epoxy thread repairs are okay for very non-critical repairs.
In your case, the threads are subject to repeated heavy bending, which is
very likely to crush the epoxy filler over time, causing the handles to
loosen again.

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Best is to make a new one from tool steel. Second best is to get another
one cast from aluminum, using yours as a mold, and machine that one.

Agreed, but not tool steel. It's not necessary for the application, is
expensive to buy, and can be difficult to machine. Plain old (low) carbon
steel, or even medium carbon steel (1018 to 1045) would work just fine.

Assuming you end up going that direction, a little creativity in attaching
the handles could go a long ways towards longevity. A larger diameter at
the attachment point, for example. Allows for more threads, or a
counterbored entry, so the shank is supported. The bad news is it
requires the use of a metal lathe and at least a mill drill, so if you don't
have them at your disposal, it might not hurt to look around to see if you
don't have others in your community that have a like interest, and have some
machine tools. Could be a six pack of beer or a dozen donuts could turn
into an afternoon of fun and a new friendship. I do repairs like that for
neighbors at no charge.

Harold

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Best is to make a new one from tool steel. Second best is to get another
one cast from aluminum, using yours as a mold, and machine that one.

Agreed, but not tool steel. It's not necessary for the application, is
expensive to buy, and can be difficult to machine. Plain old (low) carbon
steel, or even medium carbon steel (1018 to 1045) would work just fine.

Assuming you end up going that direction, a little creativity in attaching
the handles could go a long ways towards longevity. A larger diameter at
the attachment point, for example. Allows for more threads, or a
counterbored entry, so the shank is supported. The bad news is it
requires the use of a metal lathe and at least a mill drill, so if you
don't
have them at your disposal, it might not hurt to look around to see if you
don't have others in your community that have a like interest, and have
some
machine tools. Could be a six pack of beer or a dozen donuts could turn
into an afternoon of fun and a new friendship. I do repairs like that
for
neighbors at no charge.

Harold

I'd make a new hub out of aluminum barstock, or perhaps make a hex insert to
fit your DP and loctite that into a stock mill vise spinner available for
about $15 from Enco.

Might you be near Minneapolis?

"Alex" wrote in message
. ..
Did any one used any of Stripped-Thread Repair Epoxy products?

I need to repair badly stripped threads in my Drill Press downfeed hub.
Hub is the part where three feed handles are attached.
Hub seems to be made of cast iron or some other very brittle steel that
can't stand jerky movements of handles. Large pieces of thread teeth
chipped out and handles are very loose.

What is best to use in this case Epoxy or metal threaded inserts?
Metal inserts would be harder for me to do since I'll be using cordless
drill to make holes in brittle metal (my drill press is obviously out of
order)

BTW Hub is hollow inside so there is not much "meat" to hold on for
inserts


So, unless it would interfere with mounting, _fill_ the hub with a stout,
filled epoxy all the way out the holes. Then drill and re-tap. I've had
very good luck with several of the concrete anchor adhesives. They're
designed for slight (but minimal) expansion on cure, and are tough as a cob.
The Simpson Strong-Tie system works quite well on metals.

LLoyd


LLoyd

I am in California.

Don Foreman wrote:
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...

Best is to make a new one from tool steel. Second best is to get another
one cast from aluminum, using yours as a mold, and machine that one.

Agreed, but not tool steel. It's not necessary for the application, is
expensive to buy, and can be difficult to machine. Plain old (low) carbon
steel, or even medium carbon steel (1018 to 1045) would work just fine.

Assuming you end up going that direction, a little creativity in attaching
the handles could go a long ways towards longevity. A larger diameter at
the attachment point, for example. Allows for more threads, or a
counterbored entry, so the shank is supported. The bad news is it
requires the use of a metal lathe and at least a mill drill, so if you
don't
have them at your disposal, it might not hurt to look around to see if you
don't have others in your community that have a like interest, and have
some
machine tools. Could be a six pack of beer or a dozen donuts could turn
into an afternoon of fun and a new friendship. I do repairs like that
for
neighbors at no charge.

Harold


I'd make a new hub out of aluminum barstock, or perhaps make a hex insert to
fit your DP and loctite that into a stock mill vise spinner available for
about $15 from Enco.

Might you be near Minneapolis?

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote: (clip)fill_ the hub with a stout, filled
epoxy all the way out the holes. Then drill and re-tap. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If you are able to drill and re-tap, why not just go to three locations
halfway between the old holes?

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote: (clip)fill_ the hub with a stout, filled
epoxy all the way out the holes. Then drill and re-tap. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If you are able to drill and re-tap, why not just go to three locations
halfway between the old holes?


Could be a cheap casting with no metal there.

On Tue, 10 May 2005 05:45:50 GMT, Alex wrote:

Did any one used any of Stripped-Thread Repair Epoxy products?

I need to repair badly stripped threads in my Drill Press downfeed hub. Hub is the part
where three feed handles are attached.
Hub seems to be made of cast iron or some other very brittle steel that can't stand
jerky movements of handles. Large pieces of thread teeth chipped out and handles are
very loose.

What is best to use in this case Epoxy or metal threaded inserts?
Metal inserts would be harder for me to do since I'll be using cordless drill to make
holes in brittle metal (my drill press is obviously out of order)

BTW Hub is hollow inside so there is not much "meat" to hold on for inserts


Thanks

Try locktite 10 minute metal patch - it is rated to be equivalent in
strength to a grade 5 bolt, and is about as fragile as cast. Put a
coating of mold release on the bolt, goop it on and ram it home.
Or use a light smudge of anti-seize.
Or just slop the hole full, then redrill and re-tap.

Works either way.

Do you know which mold release or anti-seize won't stick to metal epoxy?


wrote:
On Tue, 10 May 2005 05:45:50 GMT, Alex wrote:


Did any one used any of Stripped-Thread Repair Epoxy products?

I need to repair badly stripped threads in my Drill Press downfeed hub. Hub is the part
where three feed handles are attached.
Hub seems to be made of cast iron or some other very brittle steel that can't stand
jerky movements of handles. Large pieces of thread teeth chipped out and handles are
very loose.

What is best to use in this case Epoxy or metal threaded inserts?
Metal inserts would be harder for me to do since I'll be using cordless drill to make
holes in brittle metal (my drill press is obviously out of order)

BTW Hub is hollow inside so there is not much "meat" to hold on for inserts


Thanks


Try locktite 10 minute metal patch - it is rated to be equivalent in
strength to a grade 5 bolt, and is about as fragile as cast. Put a
coating of mold release on the bolt, goop it on and ram it home.
Or use a light smudge of anti-seize.
Or just slop the hole full, then redrill and re-tap.

Works either way.

I have some Bondo Body Filler. Is it as strong as "liquid metal" epoxy?

A lot of good advice in other posts. I would degrease the parts with brake
cleaner and then epoxy the handles in with any threads that might be left.
That is easy enough that if they come loose you have not invested much. I do
not believe that it should ever be necessary to unscrew them but heat would
allow it.
Don Young
"Alex" wrote in message
. ..
Did any one used any of Stripped-Thread Repair Epoxy products?

I need to repair badly stripped threads in my Drill Press downfeed hub.
Hub is the part where three feed handles are attached.
Hub seems to be made of cast iron or some other very brittle steel that
can't stand jerky movements of handles. Large pieces of thread teeth
chipped out and handles are very loose.

What is best to use in this case Epoxy or metal threaded inserts?
Metal inserts would be harder for me to do since I'll be using cordless
drill to make holes in brittle metal (my drill press is obviously out of
order)

BTW Hub is hollow inside so there is not much "meat" to hold on for
inserts


Thanks

On Wed, 11 May 2005 03:22:38 GMT, Alex wrote:

I have some Bondo Body Filler. Is it as strong as "liquid metal" epoxy?

No. Not in the slightest. Its miserable stuff with little strength of
its own.

Gunner

Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

"Alex" wrote in message
...
Do you know which mold release or anti-seize won't stick to metal epoxy?

CRC's "Heavy Duty Silicone Spray" forms an effective dry release for epoxies
and polyester. Paraffin dissolved in xylene, toluene, or naptha works well,
also.

LLoyd

On Wed, 11 May 2005 03:17:50 GMT, Alex wrote:

Do you know which mold release or anti-seize won't stick to metal epoxy?
Any antiseize I've ever tried has worked.


wrote:
On Tue, 10 May 2005 05:45:50 GMT, Alex wrote:


Did any one used any of Stripped-Thread Repair Epoxy products?

I need to repair badly stripped threads in my Drill Press downfeed hub. Hub is the part
where three feed handles are attached.
Hub seems to be made of cast iron or some other very brittle steel that can't stand
jerky movements of handles. Large pieces of thread teeth chipped out and handles are
very loose.

What is best to use in this case Epoxy or metal threaded inserts?
Metal inserts would be harder for me to do since I'll be using cordless drill to make
holes in brittle metal (my drill press is obviously out of order)

BTW Hub is hollow inside so there is not much "meat" to hold on for inserts


Thanks


Try locktite 10 minute metal patch - it is rated to be equivalent in
strength to a grade 5 bolt, and is about as fragile as cast. Put a
coating of mold release on the bolt, goop it on and ram it home.
Or use a light smudge of anti-seize.
Or just slop the hole full, then redrill and re-tap.

Works either way.

On Wed, 11 May 2005 03:22:38 GMT, Alex wrote:

I have some Bondo Body Filler. Is it as strong as "liquid metal" epoxy?
Definitely not. It is basically polyester.