Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Grant Erwin
 
Posts: n/a
Default designs for a better shop crane?

I use an engine hoist in my shop to move machines around. I originally rented
them as I needed them for about $35/day but that got old. Then I got a 2-ton
old-school import engine hoist. It worked OK but took up a ton of room in
my shop. Next I moved to a 2-ton folding model, which I have now. It works
OK but there is less room between the legs than the non-folding model, and
really, there isn't enough room between the legs. Also, it's built very
lightly and so to lift 2 tons you have to retract the boom fully, and I
need the capability to lift 2 tons with a boom as long as mine is fully
extended. The answer is to fabricate one, which I can certainly do. I'm
wondering if other guys have "been there done that" and can give me any
pointers. I have a bit of steel in my scrap rack at present that I'd like
to use up, and this would be a useful way to do it.

GWE
  #2   Report Post  
ATP*
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I use an engine hoist in my shop to move machines around. I originally
rented
them as I needed them for about $35/day but that got old. Then I got a
2-ton
old-school import engine hoist. It worked OK but took up a ton of room in
my shop. Next I moved to a 2-ton folding model, which I have now. It works
OK but there is less room between the legs than the non-folding model, and
really, there isn't enough room between the legs. Also, it's built very
lightly and so to lift 2 tons you have to retract the boom fully, and I
need the capability to lift 2 tons with a boom as long as mine is fully
extended. The answer is to fabricate one, which I can certainly do. I'm
wondering if other guys have "been there done that" and can give me any
pointers. I have a bit of steel in my scrap rack at present that I'd like
to use up, and this would be a useful way to do it.

GWE


I saw a hinged I-beam on a column at an auction. It was a beam with a
trolley on it but one end was hinged and the other was free. Sort of like a
swinging gantry crane. I'm probably not describing it clearly enough,
essentially it gave you freedom to pick up, move and lower objects anywhere
within a semicircle of about ten foot radius. IIRC it was at least one ton
capacity, maybe two. It looked like the ideal solution to me if you could
set up a strong enough column. A simpler way would be a rolling gantry
crane, if you have the room in the shop, or an I-beam that extends the
length of the shop and outside to a point where you can unload treasures.


  #3   Report Post  
Roger Shoaf
 
Posts: n/a
Default

How about something simple like an A frame? If you designed this right, you
could rig it to do the lifting, then slip dollies under what ever you needed
to move. When not needed, You could fold it up and stow it.


--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I use an engine hoist in my shop to move machines around. I originally

rented
them as I needed them for about $35/day but that got old. Then I got a

2-ton
old-school import engine hoist. It worked OK but took up a ton of room in
my shop. Next I moved to a 2-ton folding model, which I have now. It works
OK but there is less room between the legs than the non-folding model, and
really, there isn't enough room between the legs. Also, it's built very
lightly and so to lift 2 tons you have to retract the boom fully, and I
need the capability to lift 2 tons with a boom as long as mine is fully
extended. The answer is to fabricate one, which I can certainly do. I'm
wondering if other guys have "been there done that" and can give me any
pointers. I have a bit of steel in my scrap rack at present that I'd like
to use up, and this would be a useful way to do it.

GWE



  #4   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

It's called a Jib Crane. --Doozer

  #5   Report Post  
Richard J Kinch
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Grant Erwin writes:

The answer is to fabricate one, which I can certainly do. I'm
wondering if other guys have "been there done that" and can give me any
pointers.


I've bookmarked this for a while:

http://www.plansandprojects.com/portable.htm

The problem with this type of thing is that any error in design or
execution is a potential disaster, assuming you use it at the capacities
you're describing.

The problem is one of engineering, so I would be leery of any design that
wasn't "engineered" in the strictest sense of carefully calculated and
tested, not just guessed at or overbuilt.


  #6   Report Post  
Gunner
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Sun, 01 May 2005 22:34:24 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Grant Erwin writes:

The answer is to fabricate one, which I can certainly do. I'm
wondering if other guys have "been there done that" and can give me any
pointers.


I've bookmarked this for a while:

http://www.plansandprojects.com/portable.htm

The problem with this type of thing is that any error in design or
execution is a potential disaster, assuming you use it at the capacities
you're describing.

The problem is one of engineering, so I would be leery of any design that
wasn't "engineered" in the strictest sense of carefully calculated and
tested, not just guessed at or overbuilt.



Around here, most of the serious motorheads have a shop crane..nothing
more than a pair of A legs with a 10' piece of 4" pipe across them.
The fancy ones use a pair of stubs welded as sockets below the 4" pipe
so you can push it over and break it down. Few do though.

Mine is an H frame made of 3" oilfield pipe, , but with A legs,
carrying a piece of 8" I beam 10 foot long. Its 12 ft tall. Socketed
so I can break it down if I wanted to. I actually put the I beam up
with my Carolina 2 ton engine hoist and a short extention added to the
already extended boom.

I needed the height to remove tall machines from my trailer and have
overhead room to lift with the 2 ton Yale electric hoist on I beam
trolly car.

Some of the guys here make theirs in the A frame style, and then put
dollys under them using small boat tires. Move to where you want, jack
it up a couple inches, remove the dolly and set it down, repeat on the
other side. Half the time, they never remove the tires, just block em
so they dont roll.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke
  #7   Report Post  
Grant Erwin
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I'm obviously not writing clearly. I need to move machines INSIDE my
shop, under an 8 foot ceiling. The heavy ones are a Bridgeport mill and
a KO Lee surface grinder. I want to clone an engine hoist but with a
design modified to be more suitable to my application. For example, it
needn't be light weight to move from one site to another easily.

I bookmarked Ron Thompson's A-frame idea years ago. It's pretty simple,
which often means it makes a lot of sense. But I want to stick with
hydraulics especially since I invested in a nice air over hydraulic 8 ton
long throw cylinder so now to use my hoist I just hook up shop air and
push a button.

Grant

Gunner wrote:
On Sun, 01 May 2005 22:34:24 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:


Grant Erwin writes:


The answer is to fabricate one, which I can certainly do. I'm
wondering if other guys have "been there done that" and can give me any
pointers.


I've bookmarked this for a while:

http://www.plansandprojects.com/portable.htm

The problem with this type of thing is that any error in design or
execution is a potential disaster, assuming you use it at the capacities
you're describing.

The problem is one of engineering, so I would be leery of any design that
wasn't "engineered" in the strictest sense of carefully calculated and
tested, not just guessed at or overbuilt.




Around here, most of the serious motorheads have a shop crane..nothing
more than a pair of A legs with a 10' piece of 4" pipe across them.
The fancy ones use a pair of stubs welded as sockets below the 4" pipe
so you can push it over and break it down. Few do though.

Mine is an H frame made of 3" oilfield pipe, , but with A legs,
carrying a piece of 8" I beam 10 foot long. Its 12 ft tall. Socketed
so I can break it down if I wanted to. I actually put the I beam up
with my Carolina 2 ton engine hoist and a short extention added to the
already extended boom.

I needed the height to remove tall machines from my trailer and have
overhead room to lift with the 2 ton Yale electric hoist on I beam
trolly car.

Some of the guys here make theirs in the A frame style, and then put
dollys under them using small boat tires. Move to where you want, jack
it up a couple inches, remove the dolly and set it down, repeat on the
other side. Half the time, they never remove the tires, just block em
so they dont roll.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke

  #8   Report Post  
Gunner
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 02 May 2005 00:11:11 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

I'm obviously not writing clearly. I need to move machines INSIDE my
shop, under an 8 foot ceiling. The heavy ones are a Bridgeport mill and
a KO Lee surface grinder. I want to clone an engine hoist but with a
design modified to be more suitable to my application. For example, it
needn't be light weight to move from one site to another easily.

I bookmarked Ron Thompson's A-frame idea years ago. It's pretty simple,
which often means it makes a lot of sense. But I want to stick with
hydraulics especially since I invested in a nice air over hydraulic 8 ton
long throw cylinder so now to use my hoist I just hook up shop air and
push a button.

Grant


oooops.

Thats going to be a good trick with an 8' ceiling. I think you would
be better off with dollys. Shrug. Ill cogitate on this a bit.

Gunner


Gunner wrote:
On Sun, 01 May 2005 22:34:24 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:


Grant Erwin writes:


The answer is to fabricate one, which I can certainly do. I'm
wondering if other guys have "been there done that" and can give me any
pointers.

I've bookmarked this for a while:

http://www.plansandprojects.com/portable.htm

The problem with this type of thing is that any error in design or
execution is a potential disaster, assuming you use it at the capacities
you're describing.

The problem is one of engineering, so I would be leery of any design that
wasn't "engineered" in the strictest sense of carefully calculated and
tested, not just guessed at or overbuilt.




Around here, most of the serious motorheads have a shop crane..nothing
more than a pair of A legs with a 10' piece of 4" pipe across them.
The fancy ones use a pair of stubs welded as sockets below the 4" pipe
so you can push it over and break it down. Few do though.

Mine is an H frame made of 3" oilfield pipe, , but with A legs,
carrying a piece of 8" I beam 10 foot long. Its 12 ft tall. Socketed
so I can break it down if I wanted to. I actually put the I beam up
with my Carolina 2 ton engine hoist and a short extention added to the
already extended boom.

I needed the height to remove tall machines from my trailer and have
overhead room to lift with the 2 ton Yale electric hoist on I beam
trolly car.

Some of the guys here make theirs in the A frame style, and then put
dollys under them using small boat tires. Move to where you want, jack
it up a couple inches, remove the dolly and set it down, repeat on the
other side. Half the time, they never remove the tires, just block em
so they dont roll.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke
  #9   Report Post  
Pete C.
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Gunner wrote:

On Mon, 02 May 2005 00:11:11 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

I'm obviously not writing clearly. I need to move machines INSIDE my
shop, under an 8 foot ceiling. The heavy ones are a Bridgeport mill and
a KO Lee surface grinder. I want to clone an engine hoist but with a
design modified to be more suitable to my application. For example, it
needn't be light weight to move from one site to another easily.

I bookmarked Ron Thompson's A-frame idea years ago. It's pretty simple,
which often means it makes a lot of sense. But I want to stick with
hydraulics especially since I invested in a nice air over hydraulic 8 ton
long throw cylinder so now to use my hoist I just hook up shop air and
push a button.

Grant


oooops.

Thats going to be a good trick with an 8' ceiling. I think you would
be better off with dollys. Shrug. Ill cogitate on this a bit.

Gunner


Gunner wrote:
On Sun, 01 May 2005 22:34:24 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:


Grant Erwin writes:


The answer is to fabricate one, which I can certainly do. I'm
wondering if other guys have "been there done that" and can give me any
pointers.

I've bookmarked this for a while:

http://www.plansandprojects.com/portable.htm

The problem with this type of thing is that any error in design or
execution is a potential disaster, assuming you use it at the capacities
you're describing.

The problem is one of engineering, so I would be leery of any design that
wasn't "engineered" in the strictest sense of carefully calculated and
tested, not just guessed at or overbuilt.



Around here, most of the serious motorheads have a shop crane..nothing
more than a pair of A legs with a 10' piece of 4" pipe across them.
The fancy ones use a pair of stubs welded as sockets below the 4" pipe
so you can push it over and break it down. Few do though.

Mine is an H frame made of 3" oilfield pipe, , but with A legs,
carrying a piece of 8" I beam 10 foot long. Its 12 ft tall. Socketed
so I can break it down if I wanted to. I actually put the I beam up
with my Carolina 2 ton engine hoist and a short extention added to the
already extended boom.

I needed the height to remove tall machines from my trailer and have
overhead room to lift with the 2 ton Yale electric hoist on I beam
trolly car.

Some of the guys here make theirs in the A frame style, and then put
dollys under them using small boat tires. Move to where you want, jack
it up a couple inches, remove the dolly and set it down, repeat on the
other side. Half the time, they never remove the tires, just block em
so they dont roll.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke


How about doing the rolling gantry style, but using the adjustable
height design and using the hydraulics to telescope both sides of the
gantry. That way you don't need to use any of the headroom to
accommodate a chain hoist. Just lower the gantry beam to an inch above
the item, chain with as many points as needed and then telescope the
whole thing up.

The air-hydraulic jacks would sync you on the up stroke, but down would
be a bit tricky. Probably work best with two basic cylinders and a
separate manual or air-over pump so you have a single lowering valve.
You could probably dig a cable/chain leveling mechanism if needed.

Pete C.
  #10   Report Post  
jim rozen
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , Gunner says...

Around here, most of the serious motorheads have a shop crane..nothing
more than a pair of A legs with a 10' piece of 4" pipe across them.
The fancy ones use a pair of stubs welded as sockets below the 4" pipe
so you can push it over and break it down. Few do though.

Mine is an H frame made of 3" oilfield pipe, , but with A legs,
carrying a piece of 8" I beam 10 foot long. Its 12 ft tall. Socketed
so I can break it down if I wanted to. I actually put the I beam up
with my Carolina 2 ton engine hoist and a short extention added to the
already extended boom.


I want to build a setup like this - the riggers here use just such
an A-frame.

A steel I beam that spans pipe legs. They made up a plate for each
end out of U-channel, with 2.5 inch pipe sockets welded on at a slightly
compund angle (so the legs splay slightly to the sides) and they use
2 inch pipe as the legs.

Each plate is held to the I beam end with threaded rod, going up to
another plain flat steel plate. The whole setup breaks down quite
nicely, they run a hoist on a trolley on the beam.

I figured when I make it, I'll try to tie the legs together across
the sides to stiffen it, with a bolt-on connection.

Basically I'm waiting for the local voc-tech school welding class
to kick in. Wed nites, 6 to 9 every week. I might be close to
knowing how to arc weld after a few months!

But the knock-down feature is nice, that way I can store it in the
back of the garage as a bunch of linear sticks until needed.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================


  #11   Report Post  
Gunner
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On 2 May 2005 06:46:36 -0700, jim rozen
wrote:

In article , Gunner says...

Around here, most of the serious motorheads have a shop crane..nothing
more than a pair of A legs with a 10' piece of 4" pipe across them.
The fancy ones use a pair of stubs welded as sockets below the 4" pipe
so you can push it over and break it down. Few do though.

Mine is an H frame made of 3" oilfield pipe, , but with A legs,
carrying a piece of 8" I beam 10 foot long. Its 12 ft tall. Socketed
so I can break it down if I wanted to. I actually put the I beam up
with my Carolina 2 ton engine hoist and a short extention added to the
already extended boom.


I want to build a setup like this - the riggers here use just such
an A-frame.

A steel I beam that spans pipe legs. They made up a plate for each
end out of U-channel, with 2.5 inch pipe sockets welded on at a slightly
compund angle (so the legs splay slightly to the sides) and they use
2 inch pipe as the legs.

Each plate is held to the I beam end with threaded rod, going up to
another plain flat steel plate. The whole setup breaks down quite
nicely, they run a hoist on a trolley on the beam.

I figured when I make it, I'll try to tie the legs together across
the sides to stiffen it, with a bolt-on connection.

Basically I'm waiting for the local voc-tech school welding class
to kick in. Wed nites, 6 to 9 every week. I might be close to
knowing how to arc weld after a few months!

But the knock-down feature is nice, that way I can store it in the
back of the garage as a bunch of linear sticks until needed.

Jim


Come on over some weekend and we can put one together. And the pipe is
free.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke
  #12   Report Post  
carl mciver
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Pete C." wrote in message
...
SNIP

| How about doing the rolling gantry style, but using the adjustable
| height design and using the hydraulics to telescope both sides of the
| gantry. That way you don't need to use any of the headroom to
| accommodate a chain hoist. Just lower the gantry beam to an inch above
| the item, chain with as many points as needed and then telescope the
| whole thing up.
|
| The air-hydraulic jacks would sync you on the up stroke, but down would
| be a bit tricky. Probably work best with two basic cylinders and a
| separate manual or air-over pump so you have a single lowering valve.
| You could probably dig a cable/chain leveling mechanism if needed.
|
| Pete C.

There is a gadget for making sure that the flow to two cylinders is
synchronized. Don't know the name of it, but fluid goes in one end, passes
around two gerotors which keeps the split flow matched. Can't find my
catalogs, but the usual surplus sources sell them.

One of my upcoming projects is a gantry crane, made with bases similar
to the uni-dolly at http://www.uni-dolly.com but with a few changes to make
it more interchangeable with assorted other projects. Two inch square
tubing is the common links, with the one size up being fabbed together for
connectors. I don't know if I'll hang an I beam from the crossbar or not
yet, but that depends on how much load I expect to be working with.

  #13   Report Post  
jim rozen
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , Gunner says...

But the knock-down feature is nice, that way I can store it in the
back of the garage as a bunch of linear sticks until needed.


Come on over some weekend and we can put one together. And the pipe is
free.


:^)

Thank you. I think I might have homeland security upset trying to
bring it back as a carry-on though! I do want to learn to arc
weld though. Like they say, give a man a fish, you feed him for a
day.

Teach him to fish, and he'll spend all his time fishing after that!

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================
  #14   Report Post  
Roger Shoaf
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I'm obviously not writing clearly. I need to move machines INSIDE my
shop, under an 8 foot ceiling. The heavy ones are a Bridgeport mill and
a KO Lee surface grinder. I want to clone an engine hoist but with a
design modified to be more suitable to my application.


For this application, I think a low slung base with removable casters might
be the ticket. Picture your mill set on a stout chanel iron frame. The
frame would have feet you could adjust for level, and have a provision for
sliding on castors when you needed to move it. a small stout jack would
lift the machine an inch or so and the wheels would be installed. When you
have the machine moved into position, jack it up and pop off the wheels and
adjust the machine to level.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.



For example, it
needn't be light weight to move from one site to another easily.

I bookmarked Ron Thompson's A-frame idea years ago. It's pretty simple,
which often means it makes a lot of sense. But I want to stick with
hydraulics especially since I invested in a nice air over hydraulic 8 ton
long throw cylinder so now to use my hoist I just hook up shop air and
push a button.

Grant

Gunner wrote:
On Sun, 01 May 2005 22:34:24 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:


Grant Erwin writes:


The answer is to fabricate one, which I can certainly do. I'm
wondering if other guys have "been there done that" and can give me any
pointers.

I've bookmarked this for a while:

http://www.plansandprojects.com/portable.htm

The problem with this type of thing is that any error in design or
execution is a potential disaster, assuming you use it at the capacities
you're describing.

The problem is one of engineering, so I would be leery of any design

that
wasn't "engineered" in the strictest sense of carefully calculated and
tested, not just guessed at or overbuilt.




Around here, most of the serious motorheads have a shop crane..nothing
more than a pair of A legs with a 10' piece of 4" pipe across them.
The fancy ones use a pair of stubs welded as sockets below the 4" pipe
so you can push it over and break it down. Few do though.

Mine is an H frame made of 3" oilfield pipe, , but with A legs,
carrying a piece of 8" I beam 10 foot long. Its 12 ft tall. Socketed
so I can break it down if I wanted to. I actually put the I beam up
with my Carolina 2 ton engine hoist and a short extention added to the
already extended boom.

I needed the height to remove tall machines from my trailer and have
overhead room to lift with the 2 ton Yale electric hoist on I beam
trolly car.

Some of the guys here make theirs in the A frame style, and then put
dollys under them using small boat tires. Move to where you want, jack
it up a couple inches, remove the dolly and set it down, repeat on the
other side. Half the time, they never remove the tires, just block em
so they dont roll.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke



  #15   Report Post  
Jim Dincau
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I'm obviously not writing clearly. I need to move machines INSIDE my
shop, under an 8 foot ceiling. The heavy ones are a Bridgeport mill and
a KO Lee surface grinder. I want to clone an engine hoist but with a
design modified to be more suitable to my application. For example, it
needn't be light weight to move from one site to another easily.

How about a pallet jack?




  #16   Report Post  
Glenn
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I would make up a stand similar to the shop crane but with a winch and cable
attached. That way the back braces could be taller and the lifting arm
would not have to travel as far. Use the winch to adjust the height of the
hook and the hydraulics to lift it the few inches needed to move it. Go
with the biggest casters you can use. Sort of a one ended adjustable A
frame...
Hope that makes sense??
Glenn

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I'm obviously not writing clearly. I need to move machines INSIDE my
shop, under an 8 foot ceiling. The heavy ones are a Bridgeport mill and
a KO Lee surface grinder. I want to clone an engine hoist but with a
design modified to be more suitable to my application. For example, it
needn't be light weight to move from one site to another easily.

I bookmarked Ron Thompson's A-frame idea years ago. It's pretty simple,
which often means it makes a lot of sense. But I want to stick with
hydraulics especially since I invested in a nice air over hydraulic 8 ton
long throw cylinder so now to use my hoist I just hook up shop air and
push a button.

Grant

Gunner wrote:
On Sun, 01 May 2005 22:34:24 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:


Grant Erwin writes:


The answer is to fabricate one, which I can certainly do. I'm
wondering if other guys have "been there done that" and can give me any
pointers.

I've bookmarked this for a while:

http://www.plansandprojects.com/portable.htm

The problem with this type of thing is that any error in design or
execution is a potential disaster, assuming you use it at the capacities
you're describing.

The problem is one of engineering, so I would be leery of any design that
wasn't "engineered" in the strictest sense of carefully calculated and
tested, not just guessed at or overbuilt.




Around here, most of the serious motorheads have a shop crane..nothing
more than a pair of A legs with a 10' piece of 4" pipe across them.
The fancy ones use a pair of stubs welded as sockets below the 4" pipe
so you can push it over and break it down. Few do though.

Mine is an H frame made of 3" oilfield pipe, , but with A legs,
carrying a piece of 8" I beam 10 foot long. Its 12 ft tall. Socketed
so I can break it down if I wanted to. I actually put the I beam up
with my Carolina 2 ton engine hoist and a short extention added to the
already extended boom.

I needed the height to remove tall machines from my trailer and have
overhead room to lift with the 2 ton Yale electric hoist on I beam
trolly car.

Some of the guys here make theirs in the A frame style, and then put
dollys under them using small boat tires. Move to where you want, jack
it up a couple inches, remove the dolly and set it down, repeat on the
other side. Half the time, they never remove the tires, just block em
so they dont roll.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child - miserable, as all
spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a
philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke



Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Was Shop heat---update Andrew V Metalworking 33 March 5th 06 04:32 PM
Shop electrical safety designs Brett A. Thomas Woodworking 18 December 10th 04 08:45 AM
Refuge - Thoughts On Being In The Shop This Evening Tom Watson Woodworking 11 June 6th 04 04:42 AM
Machine and Fab Shop Space Leased! Tod Engine Foundation Metalworking 2 May 3rd 04 04:39 AM
OT (kinda) High School Wood Shop V.E. Dorn Woodworking 16 January 22nd 04 10:21 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:25 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"