Hi all,
I have just purchased a Moore & Wright No. 994 bevel protractor at a
car boot sale.
( I had better explain - in the UK a car boot (trunk) sale is where
people gather in a designated field or specially prepared site and
hold a yard sale to get rid of unwanted items)
The protractor is a bit dirty with just a little rust on the large
center nut.
I need suggestions please on the best way to get it back to original
condition.
Are the degree markings just plain or do they have black ink/paint or
what in them?
I see that the one similar selling over here has a small magnifier to
make reading the degrees easier.
The one I got does not have a magnifier, so blacking the
engravings would help to read them. No problem 10 years ago but age
creeps up rapidly with the inevitable eyesight deterioration :-8
Any help appreciated.
Regards

Geoff Halstead
Norfolk, England

(superheated - radiant at that)

I like to use a product "hoppes #9" gun cleaning solvent. It dissolves
than buildup of oily dirty gunk that gets in tools over time without
damaging. It leaves behind a light film of lube. If you don't have this
product in Europe look for a gun barrel cleaning solvent.
lg
no neat sig line
"GeoffH" wrote in message
...
Hi all,
I have just purchased a Moore & Wright No. 994 bevel protractor at a
car boot sale.
( I had better explain - in the UK a car boot (trunk) sale is where
people gather in a designated field or specially prepared site and
hold a yard sale to get rid of unwanted items)
The protractor is a bit dirty with just a little rust on the large
center nut.
I need suggestions please on the best way to get it back to original
condition.
Are the degree markings just plain or do they have black ink/paint or
what in them?
I see that the one similar selling over here has a small magnifier to
make reading the degrees easier.
The one I got does not have a magnifier, so blacking the
engravings would help to read them. No problem 10 years ago but age
creeps up rapidly with the inevitable eyesight deterioration :-8
Any help appreciated.
Regards

Geoff Halstead
Norfolk, England

(superheated - radiant at that)

On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 19:28:48 -0700, "larry g"
wrote:

I like to use a product "hoppes #9" gun cleaning solvent. It dissolves
than buildup of oily dirty gunk that gets in tools over time without
damaging. It leaves behind a light film of lube. If you don't have this
product in Europe look for a gun barrel cleaning solvent.
lg
no neat sig line

Balistol should work quite well and is a good German gun care product,
that should be available. The stuff is made from pine trees or
something.

Gunner

"GeoffH" wrote in message
.. .
Hi all,
I have just purchased a Moore & Wright No. 994 bevel protractor at a
car boot sale.
( I had better explain - in the UK a car boot (trunk) sale is where
people gather in a designated field or specially prepared site and
hold a yard sale to get rid of unwanted items)
The protractor is a bit dirty with just a little rust on the large
center nut.
I need suggestions please on the best way to get it back to original
condition.
Are the degree markings just plain or do they have black ink/paint or
what in them?
I see that the one similar selling over here has a small magnifier to
make reading the degrees easier.
The one I got does not have a magnifier, so blacking the
engravings would help to read them. No problem 10 years ago but age
creeps up rapidly with the inevitable eyesight deterioration :-8
Any help appreciated.
Regards

Geoff Halstead
Norfolk, England

(superheated - radiant at that)


"What do you call someone in possesion of all the facts? Paranoid.-William Burroughs

LG
Gunner,
Thanks for your replies.
Handguns are banned in the UK, but shotguns not, so will search for a
dealer/shop for cleaner.
Regards

Geoff Halstead
Norfolk, England

(superheated - radiant at that)

Hello Fred,
Thanks for the info, very informative.
I wonder if artists type crayons will work?
Must check them out.

Regards


On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 22:59:03 -0400, Fred wrote:

On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 22:50:12 +0000 (UTC), GeoffH
scribed:

Hey Geoff:

When I used to work in the repair shop, we would take an item like
that, use some alchemy or TriClo. Get all the old stuff off, and rub
it with a "black stick" similar to a crayon, but made of paint...
but stuck real well. Rub the top of it with a fine cloth or shammy,
All the indentations would come up looking factory new, and would last
for years again...

So, Yes! Re-Blacking the engravings on a classic protractor is sure,
and always use the best stick you can buy....

Geoff Halstead
Norfolk, England

(superheated - radiant at that)

On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 11:39:24 +0000 (UTC), GeoffH
scribed:

Geoff:

Could work? Maybe we just had a good artist crayon... but these were
pretty tough to get the stuff off your fingers after doing a few, so I
think they had some other special properties. As long as the
graduation is not on a wear surface, I reckon any good industrial perm
marker may work with the same technique.

I am sure we still use this stick in the repair lab, so I will get you
name and MFG in short time.

Best,

Freddie


Hello Fred,
Thanks for the info, very informative.
I wonder if artists type crayons will work?
Must check them out.

Regards


On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 22:59:03 -0400, Fred wrote:

On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 22:50:12 +0000 (UTC), GeoffH
scribed:

Hey Geoff:

When I used to work in the repair shop, we would take an item like
that, use some alchemy or TriClo. Get all the old stuff off, and rub
it with a "black stick" similar to a crayon, but made of paint...
but stuck real well. Rub the top of it with a fine cloth or shammy,
All the indentations would come up looking factory new, and would last
for years again...

So, Yes! Re-Blacking the engravings on a classic protractor is sure,
and always use the best stick you can buy....

Geoff Halstead
Norfolk, England

(superheated - radiant at that)

Hello Fred,

As long as the graduation is not on a wear surface,
The graduations are clear of wear surface, so no problem there.

I reckon any good industrial perm marker may work with the same technique.
How would you remove the access from the raised area?
Don't really fancy taking even the finest wet/dry to it.

I am sure we still use this stick in the repair lab, so I will get you
name and MFG in short time.
Much appreciated.

Regards

Geoff Halstead
Norfolk, England

(superheated - radiant at that)

On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 12:13:20 +0000 (UTC), GeoffH
scribed:

Hello Fred,

As long as the graduation is not on a wear surface,
The graduations are clear of wear surface, so no problem there.

I reckon any good industrial perm marker may work with the same technique.
How would you remove the access from the raised area?
Don't really fancy taking even the finest wet/dry to it.

Just rub a black crayon on it, wipe off the residue with a soft cloth.
You might be surprised at the result.

I am sure we still use this stick in the repair lab, so I will get you
name and MFG in short time.
Much appreciated.

Regards

Geoff Halstead
Norfolk, England

(superheated - radiant at that)

When I toured the Starrett factory a few years ago I saw how this was done.
There were several women working on 6" rulers and they would wipe on the
black ink then squegee off the excess. This left the grooves filled. What
I don't remember is the ink/paint/whatever that they were using. I keep
kicking myself for that oversight.

"Fred" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 12:13:20 +0000 (UTC), GeoffH
scribed:

Hello Fred,

As long as the graduation is not on a wear surface,
The graduations are clear of wear surface, so no problem there.

I reckon any good industrial perm marker may work with the same
technique.
How would you remove the access from the raised area?
Don't really fancy taking even the finest wet/dry to it.

Just rub a black crayon on it, wipe off the residue with a soft cloth.
You might be surprised at the result.

I am sure we still use this stick in the repair lab, so I will get you
name and MFG in short time.
Much appreciated.

Regards

Geoff Halstead
Norfolk, England

(superheated - radiant at that)