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50# welding rod cans?
Awhile ago Ernie's school was surplusing some welding rod so I picked up
a few fifty-pound cans of 8018. Today I finished up my last 7018 so I opened my first can of 8018. Burns real sweet! I know in the shipyards when they opened 50# cans the rod went straight into the huge welding rod ovens where they were kept at something like 250°. I don't own a welding rod oven nor would I want to keep this much rod hot for as long as it will take for me to use it up (a long time). Should I attempt to put a semi-airtight top on the open can? Should I put desiccant in the can before I seal it? Should this (low hydrogen) rod really be heated before use? GWE |
If it is just being used for general welding and no code work just keep it
sealed. 50 pounds is a lot to store I would put it in several large rubbermaid style containers or similar. I have several aluminum rod containers that were used for storing Ni-rod decades ago. Randy "Grant Erwin" wrote in message ... Awhile ago Ernie's school was surplusing some welding rod so I picked up a few fifty-pound cans of 8018. Today I finished up my last 7018 so I opened my first can of 8018. Burns real sweet! I know in the shipyards when they opened 50# cans the rod went straight into the huge welding rod ovens where they were kept at something like 250°. I don't own a welding rod oven nor would I want to keep this much rod hot for as long as it will take for me to use it up (a long time). Should I attempt to put a semi-airtight top on the open can? Should I put desiccant in the can before I seal it? Should this (low hydrogen) rod really be heated before use? GWE |
Wrap the can in a bit of fibreglass insulating wool, put a 100 watt light
globe in the can and seal up the lot. The heat will keep condensation from forming in the can. Tom "Randy Zimmerman" wrote in message news:eiBbe.1138450$Xk.868437@pd7tw3no... If it is just being used for general welding and no code work just keep it sealed. 50 pounds is a lot to store I would put it in several large rubbermaid style containers or similar. I have several aluminum rod containers that were used for storing Ni-rod decades ago. Randy "Grant Erwin" wrote in message ... Awhile ago Ernie's school was surplusing some welding rod so I picked up a few fifty-pound cans of 8018. Today I finished up my last 7018 so I opened my first can of 8018. Burns real sweet! I know in the shipyards when they opened 50# cans the rod went straight into the huge welding rod ovens where they were kept at something like 250°. I don't own a welding rod oven nor would I want to keep this much rod hot for as long as it will take for me to use it up (a long time). Should I attempt to put a semi-airtight top on the open can? Should I put desiccant in the can before I seal it? Should this (low hydrogen) rod really be heated before use? GWE |
Store it as you did your 7018 rods. The difference is in the strenght of the
metal, the flux is the same. I keep mine in the cardboard packaging it came in, metal and plastic would create condenstion in my area, temperatures falling below due point many days during the year. If you are worried about hydrogen cracking heat enough rod for that job in your oven at 250 deg. F. for 5 or 6 hours. Preheat any thick metals to be welded. Hope this helps.. "Grant Erwin" wrote in message ... Awhile ago Ernie's school was surplusing some welding rod so I picked up a few fifty-pound cans of 8018. Today I finished up my last 7018 so I opened my first can of 8018. Burns real sweet! I know in the shipyards when they opened 50# cans the rod went straight into the huge welding rod ovens where they were kept at something like 250°. I don't own a welding rod oven nor would I want to keep this much rod hot for as long as it will take for me to use it up (a long time). Should I attempt to put a semi-airtight top on the open can? Should I put desiccant in the can before I seal it? Should this (low hydrogen) rod really be heated before use? GWE |
Grant, in the welding shop(s) I worked in we had a defunct refrigerator that
we stored our rods in. Only the light worked, but we disabled the door switch so the light stayed on all the time. 75 watt bulb kept the moisture in the box way down. I am looking for a small undercounter refergerator to do the same thing with. If I can't find one, I will build a plywood box, line it with 1/2" foam building board, put a 40 watt bulb in it. Regards, JRJ "Grant Erwin" wrote in message ... Awhile ago Ernie's school was surplusing some welding rod so I picked up a few fifty-pound cans of 8018. Today I finished up my last 7018 so I opened my first can of 8018. Burns real sweet! I know in the shipyards when they opened 50# cans the rod went straight into the huge welding rod ovens where they were kept at something like 250°. I don't own a welding rod oven nor would I want to keep this much rod hot for as long as it will take for me to use it up (a long time). Should I attempt to put a semi-airtight top on the open can? Should I put desiccant in the can before I seal it? Should this (low hydrogen) rod really be heated before use? GWE |
I believe that desiccant would help keep your rod in good shape.
Resealing the can with alumium foil secured by duct tape would also be good. Aluminum foil does not let water vapor thru. Most plastics are not as good. Even genuine Saran Wrap is not as good as aluminum foil. Dan |
I believe that desiccant would help keep your rod in good shape.
Resealing the can with alumium foil secured by duct tape would also be good. Aluminum foil does not let water vapor thru. Most plastics are not as good. Even genuine Saran Wrap is not as good as aluminum foil. Dan |
On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 02:05:58 GMT, "JRJohnson"
wrote: Grant, in the welding shop(s) I worked in we had a defunct refrigerator that we stored our rods in. Only the light worked, but we disabled the door switch so the light stayed on all the time. 75 watt bulb kept the moisture in the box way down. I am looking for a small undercounter refergerator to do the same thing with. If I can't find one, I will build a plywood box, line it with 1/2" foam building board, put a 40 watt bulb in it. Regards, JRJ 20mm ammo cans work pretty well also. Gunner "Grant Erwin" wrote in message ... Awhile ago Ernie's school was surplusing some welding rod so I picked up a few fifty-pound cans of 8018. Today I finished up my last 7018 so I opened my first can of 8018. Burns real sweet! I know in the shipyards when they opened 50# cans the rod went straight into the huge welding rod ovens where they were kept at something like 250°. I don't own a welding rod oven nor would I want to keep this much rod hot for as long as it will take for me to use it up (a long time). Should I attempt to put a semi-airtight top on the open can? Should I put desiccant in the can before I seal it? Should this (low hydrogen) rod really be heated before use? GWE Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli |
In article , Grant Erwin
wrote: Awhile ago Ernie's school was surplusing some welding rod so I picked up a few fifty-pound cans of 8018. Today I finished up my last 7018 so I opened my first can of 8018. Burns real sweet! I know in the shipyards when they opened 50# cans the rod went straight into the huge welding rod ovens where they were kept at something like 250°. I don't own a welding rod oven nor would I want to keep this much rod hot for as long as it will take for me to use it up (a long time). Should I attempt to put a semi-airtight top on the open can? Should I put desiccant in the can before I seal it? Should this (low hydrogen) rod really be heated before use? GWE A vacuum food sealer works fine for this. Just make some long bags and seal it in 5 lb increments. Or just use big ziplock bags. Throw in some uncooked white rice to act as a desicant. |
The welding supply places sell gasketed plastic screw top containers for a
few bucks, I also use suplus mortar ammo containers, they are plastic, gasketed with screw top lid. Tony "Grant Erwin" wrote in message ... Awhile ago Ernie's school was surplusing some welding rod so I picked up a few fifty-pound cans of 8018. Today I finished up my last 7018 so I opened my first can of 8018. Burns real sweet! I know in the shipyards when they opened 50# cans the rod went straight into the huge welding rod ovens where they were kept at something like 250°. I don't own a welding rod oven nor would I want to keep this much rod hot for as long as it will take for me to use it up (a long time). Should I attempt to put a semi-airtight top on the open can? Should I put desiccant in the can before I seal it? Should this (low hydrogen) rod really be heated before use? GWE |
"Gunner" wrote in message ... | On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 02:05:58 GMT, "JRJohnson" | wrote: | | Grant, in the welding shop(s) I worked in we had a defunct refrigerator that | we stored our rods in. Only the light worked, but we disabled the door | switch so the light stayed on all the time. 75 watt bulb kept the moisture | in the box way down. I am looking for a small undercounter refergerator to | do the same thing with. If I can't find one, I will build a plywood box, | line it with 1/2" foam building board, put a 40 watt bulb in it. | Regards, JRJ | | 20mm ammo cans work pretty well also. | | Gunner I gently pipe up and remind all that I wired a 100W reptile bulb inside a 30MM ammo can with a divider and with aluminum tape all around the inside it stays at a comfortable 132 degrees or more inside. The wire entry is sealed up also, so the ammo can still retains its sealing ability. It has handles, won't hold more than I can carry (well, actually, yes it will!) and the power cord actually unplugs from the end of the can for transport. |
"Ernie Leimkuhler" A vacuum food sealer works fine for this. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That's what I was going to suggest. I have also used this to keep partially filled bottles of photo developer from oxidizing. BTW, also good for keeping food fresh. Another idea for the welding rod: Cut up a length of plastic sewer pipe, 2 or 3" in diameter, and put end caps on it. |
"Grant Erwin" wrote in message ... Awhile ago Ernie's school was surplusing some welding rod so I picked up a few fifty-pound cans of 8018. Today I finished up my last 7018 so I opened my first can of 8018. Burns real sweet! I know in the shipyards when they opened 50# cans the rod went straight into the huge welding rod ovens where they were kept at something like 250°. I don't own a welding rod oven nor would I want to keep this much rod hot for as long as it will take for me to use it up (a long time). Should I attempt to put a semi-airtight top on the open can? Should I put desiccant in the can before I seal it? Should this (low hydrogen) rod really be heated before use? GWE Whether they tin is freshly opened or not, drying the rods reduces the preheat you need to apply. Preheating a ship plate is expensive so drying the rods saves money. For you it might be simpler to heat the plate a bit more. |
"David Deuchar" wrote in message ... "Grant Erwin" wrote in message ... Awhile ago Ernie's school was surplusing some welding rod so I picked up a few fifty-pound cans of 8018. Today I finished up my last 7018 so I opened my first can of 8018. Burns real sweet! I know in the shipyards when they opened 50# cans the rod went straight into the huge welding rod ovens where they were kept at something like 250°. I don't own a welding rod oven nor would I want to keep this much rod hot for as long as it will take for me to use it up (a long time). Should I attempt to put a semi-airtight top on the open can? Should I put desiccant in the can before I seal it? Should this (low hydrogen) rod really be heated before use? GWE Whether they tin is freshly opened or not, drying the rods reduces the preheat you need to apply. Preheating a ship plate is expensive so drying the rods saves money. For you it might be simpler to heat the plate a bit more. Just stick them in a toaster oven before use. You want to make sure you just heat them enough to drive the moisture out, don't heat them until the flus changes color. I keep my rod in a sealed container, and then bake at ~150F. Pat |
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