Cupla compressor Q's--and observations
 

Awl--

Posted a while ago on my Home Despot/Husky 26 gal half-price ditty--single
stage, belt driven, cast iron, oil lube.
Pretty happy w/ it. Perty quiet...
Husky appears to be a Campbell Hausfeld spinoff, altho no one at Husky/CH
seems quite clear about various corporate entities and their relations...

Q1:
What are the signs of over-filling w/ oil?? Consequences??

Q2:
The oil dipstick is a friction-fit jobby, in plastic. To measure the oil
level, do I shove it all the way in, or just rest on the fill lip?

Q3:
The dipstick appears to be vented! Why? And is this important? I haven't
noticed this on other compressors.

Q4:
I would like to take advantage of this venting, and make an external
"boiler-tube" like sight glass, by running clear plastic hose from the drain
plug. Thread is unknown as yet--if there's a god, it will be 1/8 npt.
Anyone know for sure, before I spill oil all over the place?
Since the 'stick seems vented, if I somehow kluge a connection to the hose
top to the 'stick top, a viable sight-glass type reading should be had--ie,
the venting eliminates internal pressures/air pockets, which might give
anomalous readings thru the tube.
Sound reasonable?
Speedaire's version of this in fact has a built-in sight glass.

Comments:

As I think I might have mentioned, the pump on the 26 gal Husky is quite
similar to those found on Speedaire single stages, and others. Husky/CH in
fact confirmed that they make a lot of Speedaire's stuff.
Altho single stage, it puts out 145 w/ no problem whatsoever, and is much
quieter than other compressors, incl. 2 stage, that I've heard.
They claim 5,000 hours for the pump, double that of other mfr's, if it's for
real.
They also recommend synthetic oil. Doesn't hold much oil, mebbe 1/2 qt.
Removing the belt/pulley guard improves air flow around the pump head.

The overall quality is B/B-, but more than adequate for most shop's needs,
imo, if the cfm is acceptable--about 6 or so at 90 psi.
I've re-plumbed virtually everything, which is not a quick task on these
types of units, which make no provisions for mods. Was sort of necessary,
given the location in a fairly inaccessible nook.

But, the tech help people were actually quite helpful in correcting my
misunderstanding of the 120 to 230 V conversion, which really helps in terms
of current draw. At 120 V, it draws a full 15 A.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Awl--


Q3:
The dipstick appears to be vented! Why? And is this important? I
haven't
noticed this on other compressors.



Just as the pressure on top of the piston changes as it moves up and down in
the cylinder, it changes on the bottom of the piston too. I can't think of
any belt driven compressor that I've ever seen without a crankcase vent.
And yes, it is improtant that it remain open, otherwise the pressure
pulsations from the piston movement or pressure buildup from piston ring
leakage will eventually blow out crankcase seals.

I personally only check my compressor oil level about once a month except on
the 5000 psi paintball compressor at work, which is checked before every
startup, but it also cost about $8K.

Shawn