I am having a terrible time removing the pto yoke from the shaft of a
bushog. I have the hog head cover of the bushog removed. I have hit it
with a socket and hammer numberous times and it does not budge. I tried
a little heat (but not much) that did not help.

Any ideas on how to get this off? I dont have a press. I have lots of
pictures but am not sure how I can post them here.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am having a terrible time removing the pto yoke from the shaft of a
bushog. I have the hog head cover of the bushog removed. I have hit it
with a socket and hammer numberous times and it does not budge. I tried
a little heat (but not much) that did not help.

Any ideas on how to get this off? I dont have a press. I have lots of
pictures but am not sure how I can post them here.


Try removing the clip-ring. There's a retainer ring in a groove at the
outboard end of the shaft. When the shear-pin fails, that's all that holds
the pto shaft onto the gear box.

LLoyd

Where exactly is this clip ring? Is there any way I can email you the
pictures?

Your yoke is being held on by a bolt or retaining pin. I've seen this done a
few different ways. Why don't you put your pics in the dropbox? Here's the
link and instructions:
http://metalworking.com/

Then we can all help you.

Karl


wrote in message
oups.com...
I am having a terrible time removing the pto yoke from the shaft of a
bushog. I have the hog head cover of the bushog removed. I have hit it
with a socket and hammer numberous times and it does not budge. I tried
a little heat (but not much) that did not help.

Any ideas on how to get this off? I dont have a press. I have lots of
pictures but am not sure how I can post them here.

Here they a
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1097.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1102.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1103.jpg

Well, there's obviously no shear pin or retaining ring on that yoke, since
it's splined. There almost certainly is a retaining pin through the yoke
and shaft. It's probably just a fairly small roll pin, since it takes but a
little thrust, and no torque -- maybe 1/4" or smaller.

Look for a hole drilled diametrically down in the neck of the yoke. Drive
the pin out with a closely-sized drift.

LLoyd

wrote in message
oups.com...
Here they a
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1097.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1102.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1103.jpg

Yep, looking at pic#2, there's a pin hole. The pin is probably shorter than
the o.d. of the yoke neck. Fit a drift in there, and see if it encounters
any shoulder in the hole. If so, you've found the pin.

If the pin is out, the assembly is simply frozen. Use a stout ball joint
puller to urge it to move. You may need to drive the puller with an impact
wrench to get full effect. (the puller should be of the character of those
used for truck maintenance, not for a passenger car)

LLoyd

wrote in message
oups.com...
Here they a
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1097.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1102.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1103.jpg

I'm assuming you have the pin out of the hole shown in 1102. There should be
nothing else holding this. You're just rusted together. This is just a 540
PTO spline on the shaft and on the yoke. My first trial would be 1) soak it
in WD-40 set upright so the solvent can puddle and work its way in. 2) get a
puller, you'll need a two sided one, to put pressure on the yoke. 3) pop the
end of the puller with a hammer, the shock under tension will normally get
it. If you don't have a puller, drill and tap a rod that goes through the
yoke end holes, use a bolt to put pressure against the shaft.

If and only if this fails: heat the yoke up seriously with a torch; repeat
steps 1 to 3; throw yoke away. This piece only costs $25 at a discount Fleet
Farm Supply, its a standard item. Get your new Cross bearing there, also.

I've tried cussing and yelling; but it seldom works VBG

You'll probably get a lot of other good suggestions. I'd wait, read
everybodies, then act.

Good Luck, I been there done that all too many times.
Karl


wrote in message
oups.com...
Here they a
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1097.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1102.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1103.jpg

There was a bolt and nut through that hole. It has been removed.

Can I go to autozone and rent one of those tools?

wrote in message
ups.com...
There was a bolt and nut through that hole. It has been removed.

Can I go to autozone and rent one of those tools?

You probably can't rent one heavy enough for this type of app.

Just crack the yoke and replace it. Lacking any other method, cold chisel a
good, deep groove all the way down a weak side (like, at the peak of a
spline on the shaft), then crack it good and often along the groove.
Eventually, the yoke will either stretch or crack along the groove, and you
can pull it relatively easily.

LLoyd
(ps... BEFORE you use that mower, you better make sure you have an
over-torque clutch in the driveline, since you obviously don't have a shear
pin arrangement. If you hit something really nasty without the clutch or a
shear pin, you'll break somethin' inside the tractor, or the mower's
gearbox. The clutches are common items available from almost all tractor
supplies)

Lay it on an anvil on its side and hit it with a big hammer as hard as
you can a few times then turn it a 1/4 turn and hit it some more. This
will expand it a little a free up the rust. Or take it to a shop with a
good press and they will press it apart in about 5 min.

wrote:
Here they a
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1097.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1102.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Picture_1103.jpg