In article , joel
says...

I was having an issue with the feed dial on the compound on my logan
10", where it would be free and follow the handwheel when i spun the
handwheel CCW, but when i turned the handwheel CW, the dial would spin
inwards, butt against the threaded-in faceplate that holds the compound
screw, and stop moving.

Not uncommon. The reason your dial 'ratchets' like that is the
contact area between the inside thrust surfaces (between the
inside of the bushing, and the shoulder on the crossfeed screw)
is different than the contact area on the outside thrust surfaces
(between the dial and the front of the bushing).

In the case of a south bend machine, that sort of behavior
indicates that either the total clearance in the assembly is
too small (below a thousanth), the leadscrew is slightly tweaked
and binding someplace, or the thrust bearing surfaces are
badly worn and grooved, and are binding up.

Jim


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i'll try and describe the problem as best i can:

I was having an issue with the feed dial on the compound on my logan
10", where it would be free and follow the handwheel when i spun the
handwheel CCW, but when i turned the handwheel CW, the dial would spin
inwards, butt against the threaded-in faceplate that holds the compound
screw, and stop moving. this makes it REALLY hard to accurately move the
compound in in small increments for things like threading.

So, looking at the parts manual, i figured there has to be a missing
shim or something of that sort, even though there isn't one listed in
the parts list. I carefully took it apart, checked it, didn't see
anything obvious, put the compound back together. which leads to an
interesting anomaly: it appears that the compound screw is kept in place
by butting a flange against the inside of the faceplate that's threaded
in, and by a nut thats threaded onto the screw with the dial and
faceplate inbetween. so, what keeps the dial from always being pinched
between the faceplate and the nut when feeding inward? I haven't figured
this out yet, and it's making accurate threading a real pain.

the only way i've thought to fix this is to somehow build a shim onto
the end of the compound screw thats inside the compound, and use it to
force the screw to always butt it's flange against the inside of the
threaded faceplate. this would then take the load off of the dial, and
allow it to freely move. however, this is certainly not how it was done
originally, and i have my reservations about doing this as the shim
would then be butting against the inside of the casting for the
compound, possibly wearing it and distorting it.

any thoughts assuming there's no easy fix for the problem?

thanks,
--joel

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The fellow that owns Logan is most helpful, Scott Logan.
http://loganact.com/ Give him an email.

Karl