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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Wayne,
Noted your post B&S engines and I'm in a similar situation. Bought an edger at a garage sale, had corrosion in the fuel tank from sitting too long without being used. I cleaned out the carb, replaced the fuel pick up and diaphram but it still won't run and I can't find any more jets to clean! Noted your comments about the fuel tank (I have the small tank - 1 qt) having the duel level and bowl inside the tank. The bowl is there but corroded. I can't see any fuel pickup that would fit in there so I wasn't sure of how it worked. Am I missing something? I'm guessing I need a new fuel tank. I'll strip out the carb again and maybe take photo's - there's a steel pin (?) about 1" long that I don't understand, it's not listed in the part list. And what's a "welch plug" p/n 223472 - are the main jet's in there? Thanks for any assistance. M - Houston, TX My dad bought a sprayer with a 3.5 horse engine at an auction. I have been trying to get it to start. I can make it run for a few seconds by spraying starting fluid down the throat of the carborator. I took the carb off, it has a plastic tube with a filter on it going into the tank. I cleaned this tube and sprayed cleaner through the carborator. It did not help it to start. I have put a new spark plug on it also. Is there an adjustment on the carborator I can make? Any help would be greatly appreciated! |
#2
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![]() Treefrog wrote: Wayne, Noted your post B&S engines and I'm in a similar situation. Bought an edger at a garage sale, had corrosion in the fuel tank from sitting too long without being used. I cleaned out the carb, replaced the fuel pick up and diaphram but it still won't run and I can't find any more jets to clean! Before any more work, just get the choke closed and put a pretty liberal supply of gas on and around the choke plate and try to start it. If you get nothing after a couple of pulls, it isn't a fuel system problem. Don't assume that the corrosion indicates it is entirely a fuel problem. Many of these small engines have magnetos die on them, and they still may produce some small spark when you try to test it, but it won't jump the plug gap under compression. Jon |
#3
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![]() Been in the exact same position recently. My father has a tiller with a B&S 3.5 that we could not get to run. It had been difficult to start for a few years but got to the point last year where it wouldn't start at all. There was a problem with crud shorting out the ignition kill contacts a few years ago but it had plenty of spark when I decided to have another go at it last month. Tried carb cleaner, tried cleaning the fuel pickup, tried tightening up the connections from the crankcase to the fuel pump, tried cleaning all the crud out of the fuel pump- nothing. It would run for a few seconds on quick start but that was all. Finally I took the jet out of the side, seemed clean but I ran a wire through it just for fun. Then I shot compressed air into the jet passage just for luck & put it back togeather. Started on the first pull. Tweaked the idle adjust a little & it runs like new ![]() Treefrog ) wrote: : Wayne, : Noted your post B&S engines and I'm in a similar situation. Bought an : edger at a garage sale, had corrosion in the fuel tank from sitting too : long without being used. I cleaned out the carb, replaced the fuel pick up : and diaphram but it still won't run and I can't find any more jets to : clean! : Noted your comments about the fuel tank (I have the small tank - 1 qt) : having the duel level and bowl inside the tank. The bowl is there but : corroded. I can't see any fuel pickup that would fit in there so I wasn't : sure of how it worked. Am I missing something? I'm guessing I need a new : fuel tank. : I'll strip out the carb again and maybe take photo's - there's a steel pin : (?) about 1" long that I don't understand, it's not listed in the part : list. And what's a "welch plug" p/n 223472 - are the main jet's in there? : Thanks for any assistance. : M - Houston, TX : : My dad bought a sprayer with a 3.5 horse engine at an auction. I have : been trying to get it to start. I can make it run for a few seconds by : spraying starting fluid down the throat of the carborator. I took the : carb off, it has a plastic tube with a filter on it going into the : tank. I cleaned this tube and sprayed cleaner through the carborator. : It did not help it to start. I have put a new spark plug on it also. : Is there an adjustment on the carborator I can make? : : Any help would be greatly appreciated! -- Howard Eisenhauer on ************************************** * * Chebucto Community Network * Can't think of anything cute * Halifax Nova Scotia * to put in here * * * ************************************** |
#4
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On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 14:10:44 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote: Treefrog wrote: Wayne, Noted your post B&S engines and I'm in a similar situation. Bought an edger at a garage sale, had corrosion in the fuel tank from sitting too long without being used. I cleaned out the carb, replaced the fuel pick up and diaphram but it still won't run and I can't find any more jets to clean! Before any more work, just get the choke closed and put a pretty liberal supply of gas on and around the choke plate and try to start it. If you get nothing after a couple of pulls, it isn't a fuel system problem. Don't assume that the corrosion indicates it is entirely a fuel problem. Many of these small engines have magnetos die on them, and they still may produce some small spark when you try to test it, but it won't jump the plug gap under compression. Jon A couple of older B&S I came across, had the points actuated by a plunger that rode the cam on the crankshaft. This plunger was stuck in the open position, once I got this freed up the engine started and ran great. Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
#5
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Thanks for the responses.
Let me give more details. The engine fires up fine when I put gas or carb cleaner in the carb intake and I can keep it running by continuing to feed it manually. I have a camera but the link is at the office. I've been to www.briggsandstratton.com and downloaded the parts list - have a look at the pdf file at http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BS...ngineType=2288. The engine number is 80202 2288 88071903. The machine was new in 1989. Wayne: I think its the newer style of carb but it just has a plain spring loaded jet. Appreciate your thoughts. M - Houston. |
#6
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Mikoyagi wrote:
Thanks for the responses. Let me give more details. The engine fires up fine when I put gas or carb cleaner in the carb intake and I can keep it running by continuing to feed it manually. I have a camera but the link is at the office. I've been to www.briggsandstratton.com and downloaded the parts list - have a look at the pdf file at http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BS...ngineType=2288. The engine number is 80202 2288 88071903. The machine was new in 1989. Wayne: I think its the newer style of carb but it just has a plain spring loaded jet. Appreciate your thoughts. M - Houston. you said you replaced the "diaphram". if you did not replace the "reed" valve, do so. it is a synthetic gasket like thingy that has two 'flappers' that "pump" the petro. --Loren |
#7
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Wayne,
I can't get photo's but here's a link to the illustrated parts list - http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BS...ngineType=2288 The edger was new in 1989. I belive it's the newer style and has a spring tensioned jet on the side - the oppostite side to the diaphram. I replaced the diaphram and cleaned out all the holes with carb cleaner. It runs when i manually feed fuel into the carb. Wierd, that's why I wonder about the wier in the tank. Thanks. Mike - Houston. |
#8
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Mikoyagi wrote:
Wayne, I can't get photo's but here's a link to the illustrated parts list - http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BS...ngineType=2288 The edger was new in 1989. I belive it's the newer style and has a spring tensioned jet on the side - the oppostite side to the diaphram. I replaced the diaphram and cleaned out all the holes with carb cleaner. It runs when i manually feed fuel into the carb. Wierd, that's why I wonder about the wier in the tank. Thanks. Mike - Houston. make sure the tank is completely topped up when starting, prime, start, prime start, prime start, until you get it going or fall down. it should get plenty of priming so it really takes off then dies. if you flood, it it just take a few pulls to clear it w/no aircleaner --Loren |
#9
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How to fix your Briggs and Scrapiron:
1) Throw it in the garbage; 2) Replace it with a Honda -Jitney |
#10
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lcoe wrote:
Mikoyagi wrote: Wayne, I can't get photo's but here's a link to the illustrated parts list - http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BS...ngineType=2288 The edger was new in 1989. I belive it's the newer style and has a spring tensioned jet on the side - the oppostite side to the diaphram. I replaced the diaphram and cleaned out all the holes with carb cleaner. It runs when i manually feed fuel into the carb. Wierd, that's why I wonder about the wier in the tank. Thanks. Mike - Houston. make sure the tank is completely topped up when starting, prime, start, prime start, prime start, until you get it going or fall down. it should get plenty of priming so it really takes off then dies. if you flood, it it just take a few pulls to clear it w/no aircleaner --Loren also, when it starts on primer, work the cloke close/open several times, this pulls a vacuum with the rpms up and can break debris loose. i have fixed three gummed up reed valves on B&S engines in the past 10 years, all the exact same failure mode and all were balky the first few uses following repair. the jet/s on these engine _never_ need replacemnt, cleaning once every couple of years s/b about all. --Loren |
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