Wayne,

Noted your post B&S engines and I'm in a similar situation. Bought an
edger at a garage sale, had corrosion in the fuel tank from sitting too
long without being used. I cleaned out the carb, replaced the fuel pick up
and diaphram but it still won't run and I can't find any more jets to
clean!

Noted your comments about the fuel tank (I have the small tank - 1 qt)
having the duel level and bowl inside the tank. The bowl is there but
corroded. I can't see any fuel pickup that would fit in there so I wasn't
sure of how it worked. Am I missing something? I'm guessing I need a new
fuel tank.

I'll strip out the carb again and maybe take photo's - there's a steel pin
(?) about 1" long that I don't understand, it's not listed in the part
list. And what's a "welch plug" p/n 223472 - are the main jet's in there?

Thanks for any assistance.

M - Houston, TX



My dad bought a sprayer with a 3.5 horse engine at an auction. I have
been trying to get it to start. I can make it run for a few seconds by
spraying starting fluid down the throat of the carborator. I took the
carb off, it has a plastic tube with a filter on it going into the
tank. I cleaned this tube and sprayed cleaner through the carborator.
It did not help it to start. I have put a new spark plug on it also.
Is there an adjustment on the carborator I can make?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Treefrog wrote:

Wayne,

Noted your post B&S engines and I'm in a similar situation. Bought an
edger at a garage sale, had corrosion in the fuel tank from sitting too
long without being used. I cleaned out the carb, replaced the fuel pick up
and diaphram but it still won't run and I can't find any more jets to
clean!


Before any more work, just get the choke closed and put a pretty liberal
supply of gas on and around the choke plate and try to start it. If you get
nothing after a couple of pulls, it isn't a fuel system problem. Don't
assume
that the corrosion indicates it is entirely a fuel problem. Many of these
small engines have magnetos die on them, and they still may produce some
small spark when you try to test it, but it won't jump the plug gap under
compression.

Jon

Been in the exact same position recently. My father has a tiller with a
B&S 3.5 that we could not get to run. It had been difficult to start for a
few years but got to the point last year where it wouldn't start at all.
There was a problem with crud shorting out the ignition kill contacts a
few years ago but it had plenty of spark when I decided to have another go
at it last month.

Tried carb cleaner, tried cleaning the fuel pickup, tried tightening up
the connections from the crankcase to the fuel pump, tried cleaning all
the crud out of the fuel pump- nothing. It would run for a few seconds on
quick start but that was all.

Finally I took the jet out of the side, seemed clean but I ran a wire
through it just for fun.

Then I shot compressed air into the jet passage just for luck & put it
back togeather.

Started on the first pull.

Tweaked the idle adjust a little & it runs like new .



Treefrog ) wrote: : Wayne,

: Noted your post B&S engines and I'm in a similar situation. Bought an
: edger at a garage sale, had corrosion in the fuel tank from sitting too
: long without being used. I cleaned out the carb, replaced the fuel pick up
: and diaphram but it still won't run and I can't find any more jets to
: clean!

: Noted your comments about the fuel tank (I have the small tank - 1 qt)
: having the duel level and bowl inside the tank. The bowl is there but
: corroded. I can't see any fuel pickup that would fit in there so I wasn't
: sure of how it worked. Am I missing something? I'm guessing I need a new
: fuel tank.

: I'll strip out the carb again and maybe take photo's - there's a steel pin
: (?) about 1" long that I don't understand, it's not listed in the part
: list. And what's a "welch plug" p/n 223472 - are the main jet's in there?

: Thanks for any assistance.

: M - Houston, TX


:
: My dad bought a sprayer with a 3.5 horse engine at an auction. I have
: been trying to get it to start. I can make it run for a few seconds by
: spraying starting fluid down the throat of the carborator. I took the
: carb off, it has a plastic tube with a filter on it going into the
: tank. I cleaned this tube and sprayed cleaner through the carborator.
: It did not help it to start. I have put a new spark plug on it also.
: Is there an adjustment on the carborator I can make?
:
: Any help would be greatly appreciated!

--
Howard Eisenhauer on **************************************
* *
Chebucto Community Network * Can't think of anything cute *
Halifax Nova Scotia * to put in here *
* *
**************************************

On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 14:10:44 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:



Treefrog wrote:

Wayne,

Noted your post B&S engines and I'm in a similar situation. Bought an
edger at a garage sale, had corrosion in the fuel tank from sitting too
long without being used. I cleaned out the carb, replaced the fuel pick up
and diaphram but it still won't run and I can't find any more jets to
clean!


Before any more work, just get the choke closed and put a pretty liberal
supply of gas on and around the choke plate and try to start it. If you get
nothing after a couple of pulls, it isn't a fuel system problem. Don't
assume
that the corrosion indicates it is entirely a fuel problem. Many of these
small engines have magnetos die on them, and they still may produce some
small spark when you try to test it, but it won't jump the plug gap under
compression.

Jon
A couple of older B&S I came across, had the points actuated by a
plunger that rode the cam on the crankshaft. This plunger was stuck in
the open position, once I got this freed up the engine started and ran
great.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Thanks for the responses.

Let me give more details. The engine fires up fine when I put gas or
carb cleaner in the carb intake and I can keep it running by
continuing to feed it manually.

I have a camera but the link is at the office. I've been to
www.briggsandstratton.com and downloaded the parts list - have a look
at the pdf file at http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BS...ngineType=2288.
The engine number is 80202 2288 88071903. The machine was new in
1989.

Wayne: I think its the newer style of carb but it just has a plain
spring loaded jet.

Appreciate your thoughts.

M - Houston.

Mikoyagi wrote:
Thanks for the responses.

Let me give more details. The engine fires up fine when I put gas or
carb cleaner in the carb intake and I can keep it running by
continuing to feed it manually.

I have a camera but the link is at the office. I've been to
www.briggsandstratton.com and downloaded the parts list - have a look
at the pdf file at http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BS...ngineType=2288.
The engine number is 80202 2288 88071903. The machine was new in
1989.

Wayne: I think its the newer style of carb but it just has a plain
spring loaded jet. Appreciate your thoughts. M - Houston.

you said you replaced the "diaphram". if you did not replace the
"reed" valve, do so. it is a synthetic gasket like thingy that has
two 'flappers' that "pump" the petro. --Loren

Wayne,

I can't get photo's but here's a link to the illustrated parts list -
http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BS...ngineType=2288

The edger was new in 1989. I belive it's the newer style and has a
spring tensioned jet on the side - the oppostite side to the diaphram.
I replaced the diaphram and cleaned out all the holes with carb
cleaner. It runs when i manually feed fuel into the carb. Wierd,
that's why I wonder about the wier in the tank.

Thanks.

Mike - Houston.

Mikoyagi wrote:
Wayne,

I can't get photo's but here's a link to the illustrated parts list -
http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BS...ngineType=2288

The edger was new in 1989. I belive it's the newer style and has a
spring tensioned jet on the side - the oppostite side to the diaphram.
I replaced the diaphram and cleaned out all the holes with carb
cleaner. It runs when i manually feed fuel into the carb. Wierd,
that's why I wonder about the wier in the tank. Thanks. Mike - Houston.

make sure the tank is completely topped up when starting, prime, start,
prime start, prime start, until you get it going or fall down. it should
get plenty of priming so it really takes off then dies. if you flood, it
it just take a few pulls to clear it w/no aircleaner --Loren

How to fix your Briggs and Scrapiron:

1) Throw it in the garbage;
2) Replace it with a Honda

-Jitney

lcoe wrote:
Mikoyagi wrote:
Wayne,

I can't get photo's but here's a link to the illustrated parts list -
http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BS...ngineType=2288

The edger was new in 1989. I belive it's the newer style and has a
spring tensioned jet on the side - the oppostite side to the diaphram.
I replaced the diaphram and cleaned out all the holes with carb
cleaner. It runs when i manually feed fuel into the carb. Wierd,
that's why I wonder about the wier in the tank. Thanks. Mike - Houston.

make sure the tank is completely topped up when starting, prime, start,
prime start, prime start, until you get it going or fall down. it should
get plenty of priming so it really takes off then dies. if you flood, it
it just take a few pulls to clear it w/no aircleaner --Loren

also, when it starts on primer, work the cloke close/open several times,
this pulls a vacuum with the rpms up and can break debris loose. i have
fixed three gummed up reed valves on B&S engines in the past 10 years,
all the exact same failure mode and all were balky the first few uses
following repair. the jet/s on these engine _never_ need replacemnt,
cleaning once every couple of years s/b about all. --Loren

On 13 Jul 2003 06:26:25 -0700, (Mikoyagi) wrote:

Wayne,

I can't get photo's but here's a link to the illustrated parts list -
http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BS...ngineType=2288

The edger was new in 1989. I belive it's the newer style and has a
spring tensioned jet on the side - the oppostite side to the diaphram.
I replaced the diaphram and cleaned out all the holes with carb
cleaner. It runs when i manually feed fuel into the carb. Wierd,
that's why I wonder about the wier in the tank.


I can't make that page come up but I'm getting the idea of which
carb this is. Since there is a diaphragm on the side of the carb we
know it's got the second chamber in the tank. This means that there's
a long plastic pickup that goes to the bottom of the tank. If this is
the carb I think it is then there's another pickup that goes into the
second chamber but instead of plastic this one is a projection of the
carb casting itself. This projection contains the main jet. There's a
welch plug in the bottom of this projection which if the carb is in
extremely bad shape you may have to remove to get it clean. The main
jet is a small hole in the side. I can't remember if it's brass or is
a small pressed steel jet but either way you've got to make sure the
hole is clean without making it any larger. You've also got to make
sure that the second chamber in the tank holds gas. Clean it out and
fill it then let it sit to make sure. If it's not holding gas then you
can fix it with some Seal All (a type of glue that looks a lot like
model airplane glue but isn't the same, it comes in a yellow package
with red markings and high lights).

The spring tensioned jet on the side is just the idle mixture
adjustment. If the main jet in the bottom isn't letting any gas
through then this jet isn't going to do anything either. The idle
circuit gets it's gas from the main jet.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX

On Sun, 13 Jul 2003 14:57:43 GMT, lcoe
wrote:


make sure the tank is completely topped up when starting, prime, start,
prime start, prime start, until you get it going or fall down. it should
get plenty of priming so it really takes off then dies. if you flood, it
it just take a few pulls to clear it w/no aircleaner --Loren
And make certain that the gas in the tank is FRESH! Once the gas gets
a bit stale, these things won't run for s**t.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"jitney" wrote in message
om...
How to fix your Briggs and Scrapiron:

1) Throw it in the garbage;
2) Replace it with a Honda

-Jitney

How to fix your Honda;
Diagnose carefully to find the problem.
Go to dealer and price parts.
Gasp at prices but order anyway.
Bang head on wall when parts do not fit.
Sell honda for 10 cents on the dollar to some fool who still thinks Honda is
best.
Replace with Briggs.
(BG)
Regards.
Ken.

How to fix your Honda;
Diagnose carefully to find the problem.
Go to dealer and price parts.
Gasp at prices but order anyway.
Bang head on wall when parts do not fit.
Sell honda for 10 cents on the dollar to some fool who still thinks
Honda is
best.
Replace with Briggs.
(BG)
Regards.
Ken.

I disagree somewhat, although you're right that their spares are
pricey. It's just that I've never had to buy anything other than
filters. Funny post, though. My experience with BS engines has never
been anything but sorrow, regret, and grief.-Jitney

On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 14:06:37 -0500, Treefrog
wrote:

Wayne Cook wrote in
:

Seal All

Wayne,

I think you're right on the money now. The carb I have is exactly as you
describe and I have two problems to be fixed. 1, the fuel bowl in the tank
needs rebuilding and 2, the main jet is blocked and I may have to remove
the welch plug to get at it.

The jet itself is exposed on the side of the stem. It takes a pretty
small wire to poke through it. My preferred jet cleaner is a single
strand off the kill cable of a old lawn mower.

I've contacted Seal-All and Walmart should sell it. I'll put off the carb,
soak the lower appendage with the main jet in release oil and repair the
tank while it soaks. If I can't get the jet clear I'll remove the welch
plug (drill a small hole and prize it out) and attack it that way.

If there's a lot of corrosion the welch plug may of rusted through
and need replaced anyway. The jet is easy to clean but sometimes the
tube going up gets stopped up.

What would be my chance of finding a used tank in good condition??

That's a somewhat rare tank being so new. I know that I've not got
one but you might try a few small engine places and see if they've got
one. A new one could be ordered from Briggs but I'm not sure what it
would cost.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX

On 14 Jul 2003 12:13:06 -0700, (jitney) wrote:

How to fix your Honda;
Diagnose carefully to find the problem.
Go to dealer and price parts.
Gasp at prices but order anyway.
Bang head on wall when parts do not fit.
Sell honda for 10 cents on the dollar to some fool who still thinks
Honda is
best.
Replace with Briggs.
(BG)
Regards.
Ken.

I disagree somewhat, although you're right that their spares are
pricey. It's just that I've never had to buy anything other than
filters. Funny post, though. My experience with BS engines has never
been anything but sorrow, regret, and grief.-Jitney

Any Briggs engine I own, I own because the price was right. Like free.
Actually, I paid $15 for my 24 inch self propelled lawnmower with a
rebuilt 5 hp briggs on it over 10 years ago, and have had NO problems
with it since.
Had a Kohler on my Allis Chalmers Mule that I just sold,, and a
Tecumseh Snow King on my snow blower. Had a 5 HP briggs powered blower
I picked up for nothing and sold at my garage sale for $75 after, you
guessed it, cleaning the carb.
My generator is an OLD Onan. So old it does not have a recoil start.

Wayne,

I hope by the time you read this the B&S will be purring like a
kitten. I found and cleaned out the jet (cleaned it with a pin and
can blow through easily). I took out the bowl and repaired it with
seal-all. Leak tested it this morning and all OK.

I'll flush the tank with clean fuel, put it all back together and
cross my fingers (i'll fill the bowl too..).

More soon.

Yea ha!

We have a 3hp B&S up and running. Did the repairs as discussed -
filled the reservoir with fuel, installed the carb. One shot of carb
cleaner and fired up first time.

Took her out and did the edges. Great.

Checked yesterday. Fired up first pull.

YEA HA....

Wayne you're a gem - couldn't have done it without you. Thanks very
much for your help.

M - Houston (the house with the nice edges...)