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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Collet recommendations/experience for Harrison Lathe
I have a Harrison M250 lathe and I already have a set of collets for it that
use the spring loaded vanes that squeeze in as you tighten it in its special chuck. These have the advantage of wide range of diameters for each collet, but two disadvantages in that you have to have about 50mm length minimum to grip ( you cant just grip a short shoulder - the rear of the vanes collaps in ), and by the time you get them in their special chuck you're about 200mm away from the nose of the spindle. So I want to get a set of 'tube collets' for work that really needs them. Apparently, there are 2 types for the Harrison. One uses a drawbar ( which I'm used to in other lathes ) and the other uses a chuck. I think I'd prefere the drawbar type, but they seem to sell a lot more of the chuck type for some reason. If any of you have had experience with tube collets for the M250 or similar that use a chuck or drawbar I'd love to hear about it. I cant find any info on Harrison/Colchesters web site so I would appreciate any tips or warnings you might have before I go and spend the money. They ain't cheap. Thanks, Dean. |
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Collet recommendations/experience for Harrison Lathe
"Dean" wrote in message ...
Apparently, there are 2 types for the Harrison. One uses a drawbar ( which I'm used to in other lathes ) and the other uses a chuck. I think I'd prefere the drawbar type, but they seem to sell a lot more of the chuck type for some reason. If any of you have had experience with tube collets for the M250 or similar that use a chuck or drawbar I'd love to hear about it. I cant find any info on Harrison/Colchesters web site so I would appreciate any tips or warnings you might have before I go and spend the money. They ain't cheap. I think the answer may depend on your intended use. If you are planning on production quantities rather than "one-off" work, the answer may be different. I love the Hardinge/ Sjogren collet chucks for "one-off" type work, however I realize that they have limitations when it comes to production work. For production work, the lever type draw bar setup can't be beat. Also, the Hardinge/Sjogren type chuck can get difficult to use when lots of coolant is being used (tightening the wheel gets difficult.) I like the ease of switching back and forth between a collet chuck and a 3 or 4 jaw chuck or faceplate. Changing from a draw bar setup is more involved, unless you have the collet taper built into the spindle (like Hardinge). The type of work I do involves frequent switching back and forth between a collet setup and a chuck or faceplate. Again, your mileage may vary depending on the nature of the work you do. Regards, Dave Ficken Meridian Machinery http://www.mermac.com |
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Collet recommendations/experience for Harrison Lathe
For production work, the lever type draw bar setup can't be beat. Also, the Hardinge/Sjogren type chuck can get difficult to use when lots of coolant is being used (tightening the wheel gets difficult.) For production, the rear closer is the way to go, which is more-or-less standard on the HLV-H as the spindle has a 5C taper. Sjogren transferred manufacturing of his circa 1929 chuck to Hardinge, where it became the Hardinge-Sjogren. For the past decade, give or take, the Sjogren chuck has been made by ATS Workholding, and all support is from them. The Sjogren is perhaps the best add-on chuck, and with inside/ouside threaded collets you can do repeat work, using an adjustable stop. |
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