Hello,

I am learning how to TIG weld stainless steel and would like someone to
comment on these welds.

http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/THEIRWELD_1.jpg

I found this piece on a scrap yard. The color is bit off. It is not
really rusty but more of a golden brownish. I do not know what kind of
stainless it is exactly but it is slightly magnetic. The weld is nice golden
metallic color. I would like to believe that this is how a good weld should
look. If someone has a link with pictures of ss welds I would like to see
them.

Now look at this crud that I managed to produce

http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/MYWELD_1.jpg
http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/MYWELD_2.jpg

The first one appears burn to crisp while second one might be passable.

I am using Lincoln 175 with 3/32" 308 rod

The tungsten electrode was 1/16 1.5% Lanthalated

What am I doing wrong and just how wrong is it?

All comments appreciated.

--

Boris Mohar

Boris Mohar wrote:

Hello,

I am learning how to TIG weld stainless steel and would like someone to
comment on these welds.

http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/THEIRWELD_1.jpg

I found this piece on a scrap yard. The color is bit off. It is not
really rusty but more of a golden brownish. I do not know what kind of
stainless it is exactly but it is slightly magnetic. The weld is nice golden
metallic color. I would like to believe that this is how a good weld should
look. If someone has a link with pictures of ss welds I would like to see
them.

Now look at this crud that I managed to produce

http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/MYWELD_1.jpg
http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/MYWELD_2.jpg

The first one appears burn to crisp while second one might be passable.

I am using Lincoln 175 with 3/32" 308 rod

The tungsten electrode was 1/16 1.5% Lanthalated

What am I doing wrong and just how wrong is it?

All comments appreciated.

--

Boris Mohar

Apples & oranges..
The junk yard weld appears to be stick welded.

Top weld looks like something I've had with stick, well okay so it's
happened once or twice, but still! Your welds look okay, good
penetration (unless I'm missing something), messy surface notwithstanding...

Tim

--
"California is the breakfast state: fruits, nuts and flakes."
Website: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

"Boris Mohar" wrote in message
...


Hello,

I am learning how to TIG weld stainless steel and would like someone to
comment on these welds.

http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/THEIRWELD_1.jpg

I found this piece on a scrap yard. The color is bit off. It is not
really rusty but more of a golden brownish. I do not know what kind of
stainless it is exactly but it is slightly magnetic. The weld is nice
golden
metallic color. I would like to believe that this is how a good weld
should
look. If someone has a link with pictures of ss welds I would like to
see
them.

Now look at this crud that I managed to produce

http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/MYWELD_1.jpg
http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/MYWELD_2.jpg

The first one appears burn to crisp while second one might be passable.

I am using Lincoln 175 with 3/32" 308 rod

The tungsten electrode was 1/16 1.5% Lanthalated

What am I doing wrong and just how wrong is it?

All comments appreciated.

--

Boris Mohar

In article , Boris Mohar
wrote:

Hello,

I am learning how to TIG weld stainless steel and would like someone to
comment on these welds.

http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/THEIRWELD_1.jpg

I found this piece on a scrap yard. The color is bit off. It is not
really rusty but more of a golden brownish. I do not know what kind of
stainless it is exactly but it is slightly magnetic. The weld is nice golden
metallic color. I would like to believe that this is how a good weld should
look. If someone has a link with pictures of ss welds I would like to see
them.


There are several high strength SS alloys that are magnetic, like 310.


Now look at this crud that I managed to produce

http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/MYWELD_1.jpg
http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/MYWELD_2.jpg

The first one appears burn to crisp while second one might be passable.

I am using Lincoln 175 with 3/32" 308 rod

The tungsten electrode was 1/16 1.5% Lanthalated

What am I doing wrong and just how wrong is it?

All comments appreciated.

Too much heat, bad gas shielding.
I can't tell anything else until you fix those two things.

In article , Boris Mohar
wrote:

Hello,

If someone has a link with pictures of ss welds I would like to see
them.


Here is one of mine for a brew tank.
Welding on location at the brew pub.

I do field repairs for a chain of brew pubs in Seattle.

http://www.stagesmith.com/gallery/co...imans/195.html

It looks as if you don't have inert gal protecting the weld puddle and
surrounding hot metal. This can be because you don't have enough inert
gas flooding the area, but it can also be because you have too much gas
flow. Too much gas can cause eddy currents and pull in oxygen. Or you
could be welding where there is a breeze. Could even be because you
are moving the torch away, but probably not that as I would expect it
to be less uniform in that case.

Ernie strongly recommends a gas lense. Essentially a bigger cup with
some metal gauze to make the gas flom laminar.

When you get the gas shielding right, the puddle will behave better
( wets the base metal better ) and you may not have the problem with
getting it too hot.


Dan

Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
In article , Boris Mohar
wrote:


Hello,

If someone has a link with pictures of ss welds I would like to see
them.



Here is one of mine for a brew tank.
Welding on location at the brew pub.

I do field repairs for a chain of brew pubs in Seattle.

http://www.stagesmith.com/gallery/co...imans/195.html

OHHHHhhh, man! I KNEW I shouldn't have looked! Next, Ernie will tell
us he had to do this while hanging upside down from some pipes with
water (or beer!) dripping on him while he did it!

Some day, maybe, I'll be able to do 1/10th that nice a weld!

Jon

wrote:
It looks as if you don't have inert gal protecting the weld puddle and
surrounding hot metal. This can be because you don't have enough inert
gas flooding the area, but it can also be because you have too much gas
flow. Too much gas can cause eddy currents and pull in oxygen. Or you
could be welding where there is a breeze. Could even be because you
are moving the torch away, but probably not that as I would expect it
to be less uniform in that case.

Ernie strongly recommends a gas lense. Essentially a bigger cup with
some metal gauze to make the gas flom laminar.

They really work! Also, you can often turn the gas flow down to about
half what you need with a simple collet and cup. You can just hold
your torch against a bright light and see the turbulence in a plain
collet. Big whirling eddies that bring room air into the stream of
shield gas. With the gas lens, it is just a smooth flow that gradually
bunches up after leaving the cup. aglevtech sells this stuff very
cheaply on eBay. I can get a whole set of gas lens parts (collet, cup,
washers and insulators, etc.) from him for what one piece would cost
at the welding supply place.


Jon

In article , Ignoramus20427
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 05:46:39 GMT, Ernie Leimkuhler
wrote:
http://www.stagesmith.com/gallery/co...imans/195.html

here

http://www.stagesmith.com/gallery/co...imans/189.html

you look a lot like me, if I did not shave.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Curt...t/dscf0007.jpg

i

Nah, you actually have a chin.
Why do you think I have a beard?

In article rs.com,
Jon Elson wrote:

Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
In article , Boris Mohar
wrote:


Hello,

If someone has a link with pictures of ss welds I would like to see
them.



Here is one of mine for a brew tank.
Welding on location at the brew pub.

I do field repairs for a chain of brew pubs in Seattle.

http://www.stagesmith.com/gallery/co...imans/195.html

OHHHHhhh, man! I KNEW I shouldn't have looked! Next, Ernie will tell
us he had to do this while hanging upside down from some pipes with
water (or beer!) dripping on him while he did it!

Some day, maybe, I'll be able to do 1/10th that nice a weld!

Jon


No that one was pretty simple, since the fitting was in a tank lid that
was off the tank.
Somebody didn't have all the toggles locked down on thge lid and when
the tank reached 20 psi the 10 lb SS lid blew off slamming into the
ceiling.
It destroyed the pressure gauge and mangled the tank fitting.

Small breweries use hand-me-down dairy equipment.
S you see tri-clamp fittings like this in both places.

Now the one I did after that required me to climb inside the 250 gal
brew tank (called a "grundy") to finish the inside weld.

I have yet to post those pics.

Ernie,
I noticed that the "frozen puddles" of your weld are spaced out
farther than the example weld in the first posting. Is there a standard
for when and how often to advance the pool? I have heard that you
advance when you add the filler, but what tells you it is time to add
and advance? Is it just a rythym thing or is there a visual cue I am
just totally missing?

And while I'm asking the dumb questions......
How did you backpurge that fitting? Did you even have to?
I am under the impression that all stainless requires it. Am I wrong?

In article .com,
TheAndroid wrote:

Ernie,
I noticed that the "frozen puddles" of your weld are spaced out
farther than the example weld in the first posting. Is there a standard
for when and how often to advance the pool?

The example weld he showed was a Stick weld, not a TIG weld.

SS Stick electrode makes very smooth pretty beads as long as you are
working on flat or flat fillet welds.
Vertical up and overhead are a bitch.
SS is very fluid.


I have heard that you
advance when you add the filler, but what tells you it is time to add
and advance? Is it just a rythym thing or is there a visual cue I am
just totally missing?


Purely a rythym thing.

tap tap tap.

In article . com,
TheAndroid wrote:

And while I'm asking the dumb questions......
How did you backpurge that fitting? Did you even have to?
I am under the impression that all stainless requires it. Am I wrong?



I made a special backpurge fitting that used a 8" aluminum pie tin on
the inside of the tank.
Tightening a screw on the inside pulled the pie tin against the inside
of the tank causing it to fit to the curve of the tank.

On Wed, 20 Apr 2005 04:04:30 GMT, Ernie Leimkuhler
wrote:

In article .com,
TheAndroid wrote:

Ernie,
I noticed that the "frozen puddles" of your weld are spaced out
farther than the example weld in the first posting. Is there a standard
for when and how often to advance the pool?

The example weld he showed was a Stick weld, not a TIG weld.

SS Stick electrode makes very smooth pretty beads as long as you are
working on flat or flat fillet welds.
Vertical up and overhead are a bitch.
SS is very fluid.

Thanks to all for your insights. I obviously have a lot to learn.
Are you saying that it is ok to weld SS with a correct stick?

What causes occasional sooty smudges on the periphery of the weld?
http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/SMUDGEWELD.JPG

This butt weld was done without the filler rod. How does it look?
http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/NOFILLWELD.JPG

P.S. Some time ago you mentioned a company the sells quality brushes. Do yo
have a link?

Thanks again for all the help.




Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see:
Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca

On Wed, 20 Apr 2005 07:51:30 -0400, Boris Mohar
wrote:

P.S. Some time ago you mentioned a company the sells quality brushes. Do yo
have a link?

www.ohiobrush.com

good folks. Excellent products

gunner

Rule #35
"That which does not kill you,
has made a huge tactical error"

"Boris Mohar" wrote in message
...
What causes occasional sooty smudges on the periphery of the weld?
http://www.viatrack.ca/Exman/SMUDGEWELD.JPG

I would guess overheating, letting out some iron vapor that condenses
around, partially oxidized. Don't know personally if that's normal for TIG
(probably not but I haven't done a stick weld that didn't...*shrug*

Tim

--
"California is the breakfast state: fruits, nuts and flakes."
Website: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 11:26:40 -0500, Jon Elson wrote:

wrote:
It looks as if you don't have inert gal protecting the weld puddle and
surrounding hot metal. This can be because you don't have enough inert
gas flooding the area, but it can also be because you have too much gas
flow. Too much gas can cause eddy currents and pull in oxygen. Or you
could be welding where there is a breeze. Could even be because you
are moving the torch away, but probably not that as I would expect it
to be less uniform in that case.

Ernie strongly recommends a gas lense. Essentially a bigger cup with
some metal gauze to make the gas flom laminar.

They really work! Also, you can often turn the gas flow down to about
half what you need with a simple collet and cup. You can just hold
your torch against a bright light and see the turbulence in a plain
collet. Big whirling eddies that bring room air into the stream of
shield gas. With the gas lens, it is just a smooth flow that gradually
bunches up after leaving the cup. aglevtech sells this stuff very
cheaply on eBay. I can get a whole set of gas lens parts (collet, cup,
washers and insulators, etc.) from him for what one piece would cost
at the welding supply place.

Thanks Jon. I am gong to try the gas lens. I am not sure about my Argon
usage though. I seem to be going through a lot. I set the gage to 12 FCM
bit the gauge is really a pressure regulator. There is a small print on the
gauge faceplate "0.02 Orifice" That is how they get the calibrated flow out
of a pressure gauge. Where is that orifice located? I would like to check
that I have a correct restriction. The torch that I am using is Magnum LA-9
and it came with Lincoln 175 welder.

--

Boris Mohar

Someone here said they checked their gas flow by using a gallon ziplock
bag and timing how long it takes to fill the bag in seconds. Then
converting to cu feet per minute. You might be able to google and find
the conversion factor they used, or just calculate your own.


Dan

Boris,
Are you using DC, reverse polarity? It does not take much gas
flow for ferrous metals, unless there is a fan blowing on the weld. I
have heard of people trying to be too comfortable, and blowing away
the gas envelope.

I also remembered, do you have your tungsten ground to a point?