Help with electrical on Tecumseh Engine riding mower
 

A few years back, I bought a riding mower from Tractor supply. I don't
remember what the brand name is, but it has a tecumseh 13 1/2 HP
engine.

I won't go in to detail (long sad story), but I've got the
ignition/starter wiring goofed up. I also don't have the ignition key.
I want to just install a couple toggle switches but I'm not sure where
to wire the ignition. I have already got the starter working, but no
ignition. There's several "safety switches" on the thing, so I'll be
bypassing those as well.

Can anyone tell me where to wire the battery to for the ignition,
perhaps what wires on the ignition key I can jump?

I imagine this sounds like a pretty basic question, but I've never hot
wired a thing in my life, including a lawn tractor GRIN.

dolfantimmy

On 10 Apr 2005 16:33:30 -0700, "dolfantimmy"
wrote:

A few years back, I bought a riding mower from Tractor supply. I don't
remember what the brand name is, but it has a tecumseh 13 1/2 HP
engine.

I won't go in to detail (long sad story), but I've got the
ignition/starter wiring goofed up. I also don't have the ignition key.
I want to just install a couple toggle switches but I'm not sure where
to wire the ignition. I have already got the starter working, but no
ignition. There's several "safety switches" on the thing, so I'll be
bypassing those as well.

Can anyone tell me where to wire the battery to for the ignition,
perhaps what wires on the ignition key I can jump?

I imagine this sounds like a pretty basic question, but I've never hot
wired a thing in my life, including a lawn tractor GRIN.


First things first.

Do NOT wire the battery to the ignition.

That's a quick way to fry the coil. If you've already tried then
you've likely already fried the coil. Say bye bye to $35-$60 or more
if you've done that.

The ignition "kill wire" will be any of several places but it should
be a wire coming out from under the flywheel housing. It's likely
going to a post near the throttle linkage and the wire from the mower
hooking there but sometimes they're just hooked direct.

To wire it up hook one side of the switch to the post or wire and
the other side of the switch to ground. Turn the switch off to run and
on to kill.


Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook

On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 17:26:27 -0700, Wayne Cook wrote
(in message ):

On 10 Apr 2005 16:33:30 -0700, "dolfantimmy"
wrote:

A few years back, I bought a riding mower from Tractor supply. I don't
remember what the brand name is, but it has a tecumseh 13 1/2 HP
engine.

The ignition on these things are directly opposite to what are on cars. They
do NOT require power from the battery for ignition. These are magnetos and
will run all the time until they are grounded out. The battery merely spins
the starter motor; the ignition generates its own electricity. The ignition
switch is in reality a "kill switch". When you switch to "off" you complete
the circuit to ground the magneto coil. The safety switches on the discharge
chute and such are also kill switches. If you cut the wires (or totally
remove them) then the ignition will function. You may have an electronic
ignition module located next to the flywheel or on older machines there is a
points & condenser setup UNDER the flywheel that you have to pull the
flywheel to get too. Locate all these kill switch wires, make sure they are
not accidently grounded, and the engine should run, or at least have spark at
the spark plug...........unless the coil is boogered or some other component
is broken or out of adjustment.
Hope this helps.
Roger in Vegas

If it came equipped with an electricial starter you may also have a wire
coming from behind the flywheel that is the output from an alternator that
uses the same magnet in the flywheel.

Contact the Tecumseh or tractor supply for more information.

Hugh
"Roger Hull" wrote in message
s.net...
On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 17:26:27 -0700, Wayne Cook wrote
(in message ):

On 10 Apr 2005 16:33:30 -0700, "dolfantimmy"
wrote:

A few years back, I bought a riding mower from Tractor supply. I don't
remember what the brand name is, but it has a tecumseh 13 1/2 HP
engine.

The ignition on these things are directly opposite to what are on cars.
They
do NOT require power from the battery for ignition. These are magnetos and
will run all the time until they are grounded out. The battery merely
spins
the starter motor; the ignition generates its own electricity. The
ignition
switch is in reality a "kill switch". When you switch to "off" you
complete
the circuit to ground the magneto coil. The safety switches on the
discharge
chute and such are also kill switches. If you cut the wires (or totally
remove them) then the ignition will function. You may have an electronic
ignition module located next to the flywheel or on older machines there is
a
points & condenser setup UNDER the flywheel that you have to pull the
flywheel to get too. Locate all these kill switch wires, make sure they
are
not accidently grounded, and the engine should run, or at least have spark
at
the spark plug...........unless the coil is boogered or some other
component
is broken or out of adjustment.
Hope this helps.
Roger in Vegas

Thanks for the great help folks, I love newgroups.

Anyway, I want to be sure, so here's what I find based on your
suggestions.

There is a single wire coming from the ignition switch to the coil. Of
course the spark plug is connected to the coil as well. There are also
two wires coming from under the flywheel.

If I understand correctly, I shut cut the wires going under the fly
wheel, and wire one of them to one side of a switch, the other side to
ground, providing me a kill switch.

What do I do with the wire from the coil? Leave it alone?

Then I just need the starter switch, right?

Thanks, Tim

"dolfantimmy"
wrote in message
news:1113673489.558609.35050@z14g2000cwz
..googlegroups.com...
Thanks for the great help folks, I
love newgroups.

Anyway, I want to be sure, so here's
what I find based on your
suggestions.

There is a single wire coming from the
ignition switch to the coil. Of
course the spark plug is connected to
the coil as well. There are also
two wires coming from under the
flywheel.

If I understand correctly, I shut cut
the wires going under the fly
wheel, and wire one of them to one
side of a switch, the other side to
ground, providing me a kill switch.

What do I do with the wire from the
coil? Leave it alone?

Then I just need the starter switch,
right?

Thanks, Tim


The wire coming from the coil should be
the kill wire. I'm trying to download
the entire thread to see what you have..

"dolfantimmy"
wrote in message
news:1113673489.558609.35050@z14g2000cwz
..googlegroups.com...
Thanks for the great help folks, I
love newgroups.

Anyway, I want to be sure, so here's
what I find based on your
suggestions.

There is a single wire coming from the
ignition switch to the coil. Of
course the spark plug is connected to
the coil as well. There are also
two wires coming from under the
flywheel.

If I understand correctly, I shut cut
the wires going under the fly
wheel, and wire one of them to one
side of a switch, the other side to
ground, providing me a kill switch.

What do I do with the wire from the
coil? Leave it alone?

Then I just need the starter switch,
right?

Thanks, Tim


The two wires coming out from under the
flywheel are probably the alternator
leads. You'll need them for lights (if
any) and charging the battery. The small
wire coming from the ignition coil is
the kill wire-ground it to stop the
engine.

You folks are awesome. I got it running!!!! I had to by a new float
and bowl, but so far so good.

I discovered there was some water in the crank case, and I had to of
course change the oil. The thing sat for years.

I still have this issue, when it runs, I get a ton of White smoke from
the exhaust. Is this just burning off the crud (varnish and such) from
the years of sitting, or is there a problem? My neighbor said "Let it
run, it'll go away", but I got concerned. Do y'all agree with him?

Thanks, Tim


Rick wrote:
"dolfantimmy"
wrote in message
news:1113673489.558609.35050@z14g2000cwz
.googlegroups.com...
Thanks for the great help folks, I
love newgroups.

Anyway, I want to be sure, so here's
what I find based on your
suggestions.

There is a single wire coming from the
ignition switch to the coil. Of
course the spark plug is connected to
the coil as well. There are also
two wires coming from under the
flywheel.

If I understand correctly, I shut cut
the wires going under the fly
wheel, and wire one of them to one
side of a switch, the other side to
ground, providing me a kill switch.

What do I do with the wire from the
coil? Leave it alone?

Then I just need the starter switch,
right?

Thanks, Tim


The two wires coming out from under the
flywheel are probably the alternator
leads. You'll need them for lights (if
any) and charging the battery. The small
wire coming from the ignition coil is
the kill wire-ground it to stop the
engine.

"dolfantimmy" wrote in message
oups.com..
..
You folks are awesome. I got it running!!!! I had to by
a new float
and bowl, but so far so good.

I discovered there was some water in the crank case, and I
had to of
course change the oil. The thing sat for years.

I still have this issue, when it runs, I get a ton of
White smoke from
the exhaust. Is this just burning off the crud (varnish
and such) from
the years of sitting, or is there a problem? My neighbor
said "Let it
run, it'll go away", but I got concerned. Do y'all agree
with him?

Thanks, Tim



Oil burning-may be the rings are stuck in the piston from
setting so long. or the bores are rusted.

Could be worn valve stem/guides too...

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 13:33:33 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


"dolfantimmy" wrote in message
roups.com..
.
You folks are awesome. I got it running!!!! I had to by
a new float
and bowl, but so far so good.

I discovered there was some water in the crank case, and I
had to of
course change the oil. The thing sat for years.

I still have this issue, when it runs, I get a ton of
White smoke from
the exhaust. Is this just burning off the crud (varnish
and such) from
the years of sitting, or is there a problem? My neighbor
said "Let it
run, it'll go away", but I got concerned. Do y'all agree
with him?

Thanks, Tim



Oil burning-may be the rings are stuck in the piston from
setting so long. or the bores are rusted.

Could be worn valve stem/guides too...

Pour an ounce or two of Marvel Mystery Oil into the gas and run it.

It may...may..free up the rings if thats an issue.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 13:33:33 GMT, "Rick"
wrote:


"dolfantimmy" wrote in message

roups.com.
..
.
You folks are awesome. I got it running!!!! I had to
by
a new float
and bowl, but so far so good.

I discovered there was some water in the crank case,
and I
had to of
course change the oil. The thing sat for years.

I still have this issue, when it runs, I get a ton of
White smoke from
the exhaust. Is this just burning off the crud
(varnish
and such) from
the years of sitting, or is there a problem? My
neighbor
said "Let it
run, it'll go away", but I got concerned. Do y'all
agree
with him?

Thanks, Tim



Oil burning-may be the rings are stuck in the piston from
setting so long. or the bores are rusted.

Could be worn valve stem/guides too...

Pour an ounce or two of Marvel Mystery Oil into the gas
and run it.

It may...may..free up the rings if thats an issue.

Gunner


Or it has just elected a new pope...

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 15:50:54 GMT, the inscrutable Gunner
spake:


Oil burning-may be the rings are stuck in the piston from
setting so long. or the bores are rusted.

Could be worn valve stem/guides too...

Pour an ounce or two of Marvel Mystery Oil into the gas and run it.

It may...may..free up the rings if thats an issue.

Remove the sparkplug(s) and pour an ounce of MMO down the barrel.
Let it sit overnight and try it in the morning. Add some to the gas,
too.

I use the great stuff in my air tools. Schucks Auto Parts has it for
$10.79/gal.


================================================== =======
Save the Whales + http://www.diversify.com
Collect the whole set! + Website design and graphics
================================================== =======

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 12:12:03 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote
(in message ):

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 15:50:54 GMT, the inscrutable Gunner
spake:

White smoke is water. Assuming this is an air-cooled engine, there is water
in the gas or in the crankcase. Oil would be blue smoke and black smoke would
be excessive fuel.

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 15:50:54 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 13:33:33 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


"dolfantimmy" wrote in message
groups.com..
.
You folks are awesome. I got it running!!!! I had to by
a new float
and bowl, but so far so good.

I discovered there was some water in the crank case, and I
had to of
course change the oil. The thing sat for years.

I still have this issue, when it runs, I get a ton of
White smoke from
the exhaust. Is this just burning off the crud (varnish
and such) from
the years of sitting, or is there a problem? My neighbor
said "Let it
run, it'll go away", but I got concerned. Do y'all agree
with him?

Thanks, Tim



Oil burning-may be the rings are stuck in the piston from
setting so long. or the bores are rusted.

Could be worn valve stem/guides too...

Pour an ounce or two of Marvel Mystery Oil into the gas and run it.

It may...may..free up the rings if thats an issue.

Gunner

Or, use the old "oil of wintergreen cure" About half an ounce of oil
of wintergreen in a couple ounces of deisel fuel squirted into the cyl
a few ccs at a time. If there is rust it will release it. Then squirt
some real strong carb and choke cleaner in and let it sit for a while
- adding more every hour or so. THEN squirt in a bit of oil and start
the engine. Once it is running, and warm, change the oil again. If
that doesn't fix it, it needs mechanical attention.

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 15:36:15 -0700, Roger Hull
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 12:12:03 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote
(in message ):

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 15:50:54 GMT, the inscrutable Gunner
spake:

White smoke is water. Assuming this is an air-cooled engine, there is water
in the gas or in the crankcase. Oil would be blue smoke and black smoke would
be excessive fuel.

The oil smoke can be awfully close to white under the right
conditions.

Is it running really hot - burning the carbon big time. White ash.
But then I figure that would be noticed. Perhaps the plug is a bit hot
and that causes it. Some people run hot plugs in the 'winter' and cold or
normal plugs in the summer due to the heat load on the cooling systems.

Martin
--
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
wrote:
On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 15:36:15 -0700, Roger Hull
wrote:


On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 12:12:03 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote
(in message ):


On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 15:50:54 GMT, the inscrutable Gunner
spake:

White smoke is water. Assuming this is an air-cooled engine, there is water
in the gas or in the crankcase. Oil would be blue smoke and black smoke would
be excessive fuel.


The oil smoke can be awfully close to white under the right
conditions.


----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 22:44:25 -0400,
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 15:50:54 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 13:33:33 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


"dolfantimmy" wrote in message
egroups.com..
.
You folks are awesome. I got it running!!!! I had to by
a new float
and bowl, but so far so good.

I discovered there was some water in the crank case, and I
had to of
course change the oil. The thing sat for years.

I still have this issue, when it runs, I get a ton of
White smoke from
the exhaust. Is this just burning off the crud (varnish
and such) from
the years of sitting, or is there a problem? My neighbor
said "Let it
run, it'll go away", but I got concerned. Do y'all agree
with him?

Thanks, Tim



Oil burning-may be the rings are stuck in the piston from
setting so long. or the bores are rusted.

Could be worn valve stem/guides too...

Pour an ounce or two of Marvel Mystery Oil into the gas and run it.

It may...may..free up the rings if thats an issue.

Gunner

Or, use the old "oil of wintergreen cure" About half an ounce of oil
of wintergreen in a couple ounces of deisel fuel squirted into the cyl
a few ccs at a time. If there is rust it will release it. Then squirt
some real strong carb and choke cleaner in and let it sit for a while
- adding more every hour or so. THEN squirt in a bit of oil and start
the engine. Once it is running, and warm, change the oil again. If
that doesn't fix it, it needs mechanical attention.


Oil of wintergreen? Ive never heard of that trick before. Thanks!

Gunner

Rule #35
"That which does not kill you,
has made a huge tactical error"

On Wed, 20 Apr 2005 09:01:38 GMT, Gunner
wrote:



Oil of wintergreen? Ive never heard of that trick before. Thanks!

Gunner

Had an old swather sitting in the orchard behind the shop back in the
sixties - had a Wisconsin VG4D on it, sized tighter than all getout
(water got in through the rusted out muffler).
The boss decided it was time to get it running, and that's what we
used. Three days, IIRC, and I was able to break it loose with the
crank and a 3 ft piece of water pipe. Then we added more oil and
worked it back and forth untill it turned smoothly. That old critter
always did smoke a bit after that - but most old VG4's smoked a bit
anyway - like an old Lycoming or Conti. Three years later it was still
running.
Rule #35
"That which does not kill you,
has made a huge tactical error"

Where would I find this "oil of wintergreen"? Lowes? Autoparts store?

Tim

dolfantimmy wrote:
Where would I find this "oil of wintergreen"? Lowes? Autoparts store?

Tim

At Safeway, ......... in the spices.
Martin

--
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

On 20 Apr 2005 16:11:51 -0700, "dolfantimmy"
wrote:

Where would I find this "oil of wintergreen"? Lowes? Autoparts store?

Tim
I used to get it from the local Rexall Drug store.

Also sold as salisylic acid or Methyl Salicylate. These are artificial
oils of wintergreen.
The real stuff is Gaultheria.