Pipe Threader
 

I want to replace a large section of the galvanized pipes in my 70
year-old house. I'm comfortable with all aspects of the project except
I've never used a pipe threader.

I have easy access to the galvanized pipe after it comes into the
basement (there's no meter). There's two joints where I can start the
new piping (with a di-electric union). The plan is to start with the
more distal joint and hope it comes apart without breaking. If it
breaks, then I'll go to the more proximal joint (and pray). If that
piece breaks, I'll have to learn to use a pipe threader (which I can
rent).

So my question: How difficult is pipe threading? How likely is
70-year-old pipe to stand up to pipe threading? What's the best way to
cut pipe before threading?

Would anyone recommend changes to the plan?

Thanks,
Mike

mike wrote:
I want to replace a large section of the galvanized pipes in my 70
year-old house. I'm comfortable with all aspects of the project except
I've never used a pipe threader.

I have easy access to the galvanized pipe after it comes into the
basement (there's no meter). There's two joints where I can start the
new piping (with a di-electric union). The plan is to start with the
more distal joint and hope it comes apart without breaking. If it
breaks, then I'll go to the more proximal joint (and pray). If that
piece breaks, I'll have to learn to use a pipe threader (which I can
rent).

So my question: How difficult is pipe threading? How likely is
70-year-old pipe to stand up to pipe threading? What's the best way to
cut pipe before threading?

Would anyone recommend changes to the plan?

Thanks,
Mike

Hmmmmmmmm. 70 yo galv and you're only going to
replace *part* of it? Chances are good that the
parts you *don't* replace are the worst ones.

You plan to re-thread old pipe in situ? Presumably
up on the ceiling? I wouldn't unless there were
no other possible way.

There are existing di-electrics which you plan to
uncouple? Or you plan to add them? I ask because
it was very common 70 yrs ago to use the galv pipe
as the grounding means for fixtures, switch boxes, etc.
throughout the house. Introducing di-electrics or
abandoning runs can result in electrical hazards
which don't become immediately apparent.

What's the motivation behind this project? Are there
specific sections which now leak and must be replaced?

My experience on lots of re-piping projects tells
me that this one isn't going to go well. And this
post wasn't intended to be offensive.

Jim

Are you going to install new galvanized piping? Why not go with copper or
PEX?


"mike" wrote in message
...
I want to replace a large section of the galvanized pipes in my 70
year-old house. I'm comfortable with all aspects of the project except
I've never used a pipe threader.

I have easy access to the galvanized pipe after it comes into the
basement (there's no meter). There's two joints where I can start the
new piping (with a di-electric union). The plan is to start with the
more distal joint and hope it comes apart without breaking. If it
breaks, then I'll go to the more proximal joint (and pray). If that
piece breaks, I'll have to learn to use a pipe threader (which I can
rent).

So my question: How difficult is pipe threading? How likely is
70-year-old pipe to stand up to pipe threading? What's the best way to
cut pipe before threading?

Would anyone recommend changes to the plan?

Thanks,
Mike

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 20:02:11 GMT, mike wrote:

I want to replace a large section of the galvanized pipes in my 70
year-old house. I'm comfortable with all aspects of the project except
I've never used a pipe threader.

I have easy access to the galvanized pipe after it comes into the
basement (there's no meter). There's two joints where I can start the
new piping (with a di-electric union). The plan is to start with the
more distal joint and hope it comes apart without breaking. If it
breaks, then I'll go to the more proximal joint (and pray). If that
piece breaks, I'll have to learn to use a pipe threader (which I can
rent).

So my question: How difficult is pipe threading? How likely is
70-year-old pipe to stand up to pipe threading? What's the best way to
cut pipe before threading?

Would anyone recommend changes to the plan?

Thanks,
Mike

Piece of cake as long as you are not prone to accidents,
and as long as you consider yourself to have good common
sense.

Keep one thing in mind. The pipe threader is extremely powerful.
The gear reduction is tremendous and will not even slow down if you
get something caught up in it. It also takes a while to coast down.

"mike" wrote in message

So my question: How difficult is pipe threading?

Not very difficult. I learned to do it when I was 12 years old.


How likely is
70-year-old pipe to stand up to pipe threading?

Now that's funny. I would not even THINK about it.



What's the best way to
cut pipe before threading?

Pipe cutter?


Would anyone recommend changes to the plan?

I'd not use galvanized pipe.

In article ,
Speedy Jim wrote:

Hmmmmmmmm. 70 yo galv and you're only going to
replace *part* of it? Chances are good that the
parts you *don't* replace are the worst ones.

Parts have already been replaced with copper. I'd like to now replace
the remainder. After pipes take off for the second floor, a di-electric
was installed on the main feed and copper was run to the first floor.
I'd like to run copper to the second floor as well (basically converting
the whole house to copper - except the city's supply which is galvanized
still).

You plan to re-thread old pipe in situ? Presumably
up on the ceiling? I wouldn't unless there were
no other possible way.

It's galvanized pipe coming into the house. Is there a better way to
change to copper rather than cutting, threading and di-electric? I'm
open to suggestions.

it was very common 70 yrs ago to use the galv pipe
as the grounding means for fixtures, switch boxes, etc.
throughout the house.

The electric system has been or will be updated so this should not be a
problem. Good point, though.

What's the motivation behind this project? Are there
specific sections which now leak and must be replaced?

No leaks, but terrible water pressure up to the second floor. The areas
that have already been replaced revealed build-up obstructing nearly all
of the pipe. I was amazed we had any water getting through the pipes.

My experience on lots of re-piping projects tells
me that this one isn't going to go well.

I'm here to learn. Any suggestions?

And this
post wasn't intended to be offensive.

And it wasn't.

Mike

In article RQ%%d.17438$qN3.17276@trndny01,
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:

How likely is
70-year-old pipe to stand up to pipe threading?

Now that's funny. I would not even THINK about it.

I don't understand how I can get copper to the rest of the house if I
can't thread the old galvanized (or use an existing joint). How does
one accomplish this?

Would anyone recommend changes to the plan?

I'd not use galvanized pipe.

The galvanized pipe is already there. I'm trying to cut it back to the
city supply line (galvanized) to install copper.

I'm open to suggestions for easier/better ways to accomplish this.

Thanks,
Mike

mike wrote:
In article ,
Speedy Jim wrote:


Hmmmmmmmm. 70 yo galv and you're only going to
replace *part* of it? Chances are good that the
parts you *don't* replace are the worst ones.


Parts have already been replaced with copper. I'd like to now replace
the remainder. After pipes take off for the second floor, a di-electric
was installed on the main feed and copper was run to the first floor.
I'd like to run copper to the second floor as well (basically converting
the whole house to copper - except the city's supply which is galvanized
still).


You plan to re-thread old pipe in situ? Presumably
up on the ceiling? I wouldn't unless there were
no other possible way.


It's galvanized pipe coming into the house. Is there a better way to
change to copper rather than cutting, threading and di-electric? I'm
open to suggestions.

SNIP
You *might* get away with hand-threading the stubout from
the street. If the pipe starts to rotate, have a helper
put a pipe wrench on it. I would have a backup plan
for water in acse things go wrong...

There is an alternative to threading- mechanical
compression couplings. But I'll bet they are
prohibited by the utility for services.

Finally, you may go thru all this and *still*
find that the pressure/flow is less than needed
because the service line is clogged. 70 yrs
is a *very* long time for a galv service.
I would be putting pennies in the piggy for
a service replacement.

Jim

PEX is obsolete because the fittings are prone to catastrophic failure.

OP is already going with copper just needs to make the final connection.
IMHO Copper is the gold standard of modern plumbing. PVC may be just as
good under the right circumstances (and generally easier to install) but I
just can't accept plastic as being as strong as metal.



"HeatMan" wrote in message
. ..
Are you going to install new galvanized piping? Why not go with copper or
PEX?


"mike" wrote in message
...
I want to replace a large section of the galvanized pipes in my 70
year-old house. I'm comfortable with all aspects of the project except
I've never used a pipe threader.

I have easy access to the galvanized pipe after it comes into the
basement (there's no meter). There's two joints where I can start the
new piping (with a di-electric union). The plan is to start with the
more distal joint and hope it comes apart without breaking. If it
breaks, then I'll go to the more proximal joint (and pray). If that
piece breaks, I'll have to learn to use a pipe threader (which I can
rent).

So my question: How difficult is pipe threading? How likely is
70-year-old pipe to stand up to pipe threading? What's the best way to
cut pipe before threading?

Would anyone recommend changes to the plan?

Thanks,
Mike

I don't understand how I can get copper to the rest of the house if I
can't thread the old galvanized (or use an existing joint). How does
one accomplish this?

I think that IS how it is done. You need a copper fitting threaded to mate
with the galv pipe on one side and slip fitting to solder to the Cu pipe on
the other. Threading the feeder in situ is probably your only choice under
the circumstances. Use pipe dope not tape.

I have seen pipe threaders that work like large ratchet wrenches. Use a
large monkey wrench to stabilize the pipe and lots of oil when making the
thread cut. Probably a 2 man job.

Worse that can happen is you dig up the yard replacing the feeder with
copper to the meter at the street.





"mike" wrote in message
...
In article RQ%%d.17438$qN3.17276@trndny01,
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:

How likely is
70-year-old pipe to stand up to pipe threading?

Now that's funny. I would not even THINK about it.

I don't understand how I can get copper to the rest of the house if I
can't thread the old galvanized (or use an existing joint). How does
one accomplish this?

Would anyone recommend changes to the plan?

I'd not use galvanized pipe.

The galvanized pipe is already there. I'm trying to cut it back to the
city supply line (galvanized) to install copper.

I'm open to suggestions for easier/better ways to accomplish this.

Thanks,
Mike

Be gentle. Apply heat to the joint if it doesn't want to come apart easily.

I changed a couple shutoffs in a house about that age. Came apart fairly
easily, and went back together, too.

Use two wrenches. One to steady the pipe you are saving, the second one to
turn the fitting. Commonly called "crossbucking" or cross bracing.

Incidentally, are you a doctor?

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"mike" wrote in message
...
I want to replace a large section of the galvanized pipes in my 70
year-old house. I'm comfortable with all aspects of the project except
I've never used a pipe threader.

I have easy access to the galvanized pipe after it comes into the
basement (there's no meter). There's two joints where I can start the
new piping (with a di-electric union). The plan is to start with the
more distal joint and hope it comes apart without breaking. If it
breaks, then I'll go to the more proximal joint (and pray). If that
piece breaks, I'll have to learn to use a pipe threader (which I can
rent).

So my question: How difficult is pipe threading? How likely is
70-year-old pipe to stand up to pipe threading? What's the best way to
cut pipe before threading?

Would anyone recommend changes to the plan?

Thanks,
Mike

On 2005-03-23, AutoTracer wrote:
PEX is obsolete because the fittings are prone to catastrophic failure.

No, it is not and they are not. You are thinking about that disaster
with polybutylene pipe. PEX is fine and is being installed all over
the place - vastly easier to work with.

--
This signature left blank.

In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Incidentally, are you a doctor?

Did the "distal" and "proximal" give me away?

Mike

Guys how about a ccompression fitting to connect to the old galv pipe?

btw i have an 1930's house that still has some of the original galv
steel pipe in service.

I rethreaded a leaky section about 25 years ago with a ratchet handled
threaded. When you thread a pipe it will tighten any fittings, up or
down stream; think about it.

Twenty five years ago when I had the yard redone, I put in 1" copper
from the meter to the house. I plan to re-pipe with PEX (just got hand
expander on Ebay)

OP, hand threading is easy (if you're young & strong enough)

The few times I did it in the crawlspace I used a Sawzall (not enough
room to swing a pipe cutter). Cut the end as square as possible, debur
with a file. When attempting to start the threader apply as much axial
(in-line) force as possible until the threader grabs.

But serious you might consider a compression type adapter fitting so
you wind up with a galv, plastic, copper sandwhich.

http://www.tps.us/

Series 6000 Long Body Compression Fitting

The Series 6000 Long Body Compression Fitting fits steel tubing and PVC
pipe (IPS sizes). It is made from tested components including a
reinforced NBR gasket and a galvanized body. The Compression Fitting
installs in seconds and can be easily adapted to fit copper sizes.

cheers
Bob

"Ed Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 2005-03-23, AutoTracer wrote:
PEX is obsolete because the fittings are prone to catastrophic failure.

No, it is not and they are not. You are thinking about that disaster
with polybutylene pipe. PEX is fine and is being installed all over
the place - vastly easier to work with.


Thanks Ed, you beat me to it.

--
This signature left blank.

Yes, I was wondering. Not many folks use anatomical terms on plumbing. I
wonder, though, if I were to use heating and AC terms during cardiac
surgery?

"I think we need a compression fitting for that 1/4 OD length of vein. Hang
on there, well, I guess a nylon flare would do better. Pass me that utility
knife, I've got to slice out some of the gunk that's clogging the ventricle.
Wow, what a pressure drop there. He's hardly got any PSI, nor any GPM flow
through that ventricular vein. Hand me a 1/4 fitting brush, and let me see
if I can polish that out, a bit. Oh, gosh, vibration again. Hand me that
length of 440 watt one phase, I've got to devibrate the heart. CLEAR!!!!!
OK, now, would the gas and electric department give me a report on the gage
pressures? How we doing for return airflow? Maybe we oughta pressurize the
intake air, you think?"

On second though, maybe I'll stick to heating and AC?

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"mike" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Incidentally, are you a doctor?

Did the "distal" and "proximal" give me away?

Mike

mike wrote:
I want to replace a large section of the galvanized pipes in my 70
year-old house. I'm comfortable with all aspects of the project except
I've never used a pipe threader.

I have easy access to the galvanized pipe after it comes into the
basement (there's no meter). There's two joints where I can start the
new piping (with a di-electric union). The plan is to start with the
more distal joint and hope it comes apart without breaking. If it
breaks, then I'll go to the more proximal joint (and pray). If that
piece breaks, I'll have to learn to use a pipe threader (which I can
rent).

So my question: How difficult is pipe threading? How likely is
70-year-old pipe to stand up to pipe threading? What's the best way to
cut pipe before threading?

Would anyone recommend changes to the plan?

Thanks,
Mike
Have you considered replacing the galvanized pipe at the shut off, where
you can unthread what is left of the iron and insert a short nipple plus
a dielectric union - or perhaps just a brass fixture, threaded at one
end and sized for a copper pipe at the other.

In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Yes, I was wondering. Not many folks use anatomical terms on plumbing. I
wonder, though, if I were to use heating and AC terms during cardiac
surgery?...

Which naturally leads into the inspector/permits/paperwork : HMO analogy.

Mike

In article ,
Bennett Price wrote:

Have you considered replacing the galvanized pipe at the shut off, where
you can unthread what is left of the iron and insert a short nipple plus
a dielectric union - or perhaps just a brass fixture, threaded at one
end and sized for a copper pipe at the other.

That would be ideal.

What's keeping me from doing it is a fear that if things go wrong there,
there's no where else to go (without help and $$).

If I start a little distal to that, I have some extra space to get
things right. That's why I figured I'd start at a joint, if that goes
wrong I'll have room to cut the pipe and try to thread what's left.

If, however, I get the first joint apart easily (I can dream, can't I?),
I may get brave and take it back to the shut off.

Thanks to everyone for their help. As always this group is a great
resource.

Mike

Please remit $47.50 consultation fee. Unless we come out to the house and
help with the work, and then it's $197.99. Who's your plumbing insurance
carrier, and policy number? We'll have to call for verification and
validation of your policy limits, and the applicability of this coverage in
your state. In the meantime, would you please take this clip board and fill
it out in duplicate on both sides, sign and date, and return to the
receptionist?

Oh, remember -- use two pipe wrenches. Turning in different directions. The
one on the "staying still" pipe keeps the stationary pipe from coming out of
the fitting which is out of sight. I've heard this called crossbracing, or
cross bucking. It's kinda like having your anaesthetist hold the pt's leg
while you saw on it. Keeps things from moving. I'm guessing you don't want a
leak way into the wall where you can't get to it.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"mike" wrote in message
...

That would be ideal.

What's keeping me from doing it is a fear that if things go wrong there,
there's no where else to go (without help and $$).

If I start a little distal to that, I have some extra space to get
things right. That's why I figured I'd start at a joint, if that goes
wrong I'll have room to cut the pipe and try to thread what's left.

If, however, I get the first joint apart easily (I can dream, can't I?),
I may get brave and take it back to the shut off.

Thanks to everyone for their help. As always this group is a great
resource.

Mike