Mower rained on won't start. ( Make, model tag missing)
 

Recently someone left our mower outside in the rain and it just
wouldn't start. No spark. Spark plug works. I'd took apart the
carburator and nothing seems to be blocking the fuel supply.

The grass is growing to my waist as I type. We are thinking of buying
the same make and model which is on sale. I believe Honda makes
better movers but we need a mower with power wheels and corner
cutting blades. We have no options but to get the same old new one.
What is causing it not to start?

Thanks

Tim Zimmerman wrote:
Recently someone left our mower outside in the rain and it just
wouldn't start. No spark. Spark plug works. I'd took apart the
carburator and nothing seems to be blocking the fuel supply.

The grass is growing to my waist as I type. We are thinking of buying
the same make and model which is on sale. I believe Honda makes
better movers but we need a mower with power wheels and corner
cutting blades. We have no options but to get the same old new one.
What is causing it not to start?

Thanks


Cracked (and wet) ignition wire, or wet points, or wet paper air cleaner.

Bob

zxcvbob wrote:

Tim Zimmerman wrote:
Recently someone left our mower outside in the rain and it just
wouldn't start. No spark. Spark plug works. I'd took apart the
carburator and nothing seems to be blocking the fuel supply.

The grass is growing to my waist as I type. We are thinking of buying
the same make and model which is on sale. I believe Honda makes
better movers but we need a mower with power wheels and corner
cutting blades. We have no options but to get the same old new one.
What is causing it not to start?

Thanks


Cracked (and wet) ignition wire, or wet points, or wet paper air cleaner.

Or, depending on vintage, wet ignition module or other...

I'm curious how you know spark plug "works" but don't have spark???

If they get wet and have cracked insulator or seal around base, they'll
never dry out and work right again...I'd replace it on general
principles--at least stick a different one on the end of the wiyur and
make sure I'm getting spark before going further...

Duane Bozarth wrote:
zxcvbob wrote:

Tim Zimmerman wrote:

Recently someone left our mower outside in the rain and it just
wouldn't start. No spark. Spark plug works. I'd took apart the
carburator and nothing seems to be blocking the fuel supply.

The grass is growing to my waist as I type. We are thinking of buying
the same make and model which is on sale. I believe Honda makes
better movers but we need a mower with power wheels and corner
cutting blades. We have no options but to get the same old new one.
What is causing it not to start?

Thanks


Cracked (and wet) ignition wire, or wet points, or wet paper air cleaner.


Or, depending on vintage, wet ignition module or other...

I'm curious how you know spark plug "works" but don't have spark???

If they get wet and have cracked insulator or seal around base, they'll
never dry out and work right again...I'd replace it on general
principles--at least stick a different one on the end of the wiyur and
make sure I'm getting spark before going further...


Could also be just a little bit of water in the carburator bowl. I've
had that happen a few times. I remove the jet in the bottom of the
carburator bowl (tecumsuh engine) and drain about an ounce of gas out,
and blow in the jet to clear it since I have it out anyway.

Bob

zxcvbob wrote:
.....

Could also be just a little bit of water in the carburator bowl. ...

But he said he had "no spark", so fuel isn't the problem (yet)
anyway...may be an issue after he's got spark, granted...

Best guess would be wet wires in the high voltage ignition section. How
about bring it indoors till it dries? Or squirt spark plug wire with a bit
of "wire drier" from the auto parts store.

As the other fellow suggested, perhaps wet air filter.

I'd be tempted to give it a day indoors before going out and buying another
one. Air conditioning and dehumidifier are a good idea, to supply it with
some dry air.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Tim Zimmerman" wrote in message
...
Recently someone left our mower outside in the rain and it just
wouldn't start. No spark. Spark plug works. I'd took apart the
carburator and nothing seems to be blocking the fuel supply.

The grass is growing to my waist as I type. We are thinking of buying
the same make and model which is on sale. I believe Honda makes
better movers but we need a mower with power wheels and corner
cutting blades. We have no options but to get the same old new one.
What is causing it not to start?

Thanks

"Tim Zimmerman" wrote in message
...
Recently someone left our mower outside in the rain and it just
wouldn't start. No spark. Spark plug works. I'd took apart the
carburator and nothing seems to be blocking the fuel supply.

The grass is growing to my waist as I type. We are thinking of buying
the same make and model which is on sale. I believe Honda makes
better movers but we need a mower with power wheels and corner
cutting blades. We have no options but to get the same old new one.
What is causing it not to start?

Thanks

gas caps on lawnmowers have small vent holes in them

rain water gets in through those holes

remember: gasoline is explosive, be extremely safe with it and around it

dump out all your gasoline in the tank, into a safe container and dispose of
it properly, even a little water screws up your gas

crank the gas out of your carburetor/engine (full open throttle, pull
starting rope or use electric start)

put some fresh gasoline in the tank

start it up

if it still won't start, carb jets need working over probably if it's gettin
spark (may have dried gas/varnish that needs to be cleaned out)

get someone qualified to do this if you aren't

effi wrote:
....
put some fresh gasoline in the tank

start it up

OP said and ..."it just wouldn't start. No spark."...

Gas ain't the problem (yet) anyway...

"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
...
effi wrote:
...
put some fresh gasoline in the tank

start it up

OP said and ..."it just wouldn't start. No spark."...

Gas ain't the problem (yet) anyway...

op said "Spark plug works."

confused yet?

Check to see if you have a spark by pulling the plug, attach it to the
wire, pull the cord, and look for a spark

...For a quicker response, ask your wife or a neighbor to hold the plug
while you test it

I spray a bit of Berryman's B-12 carb cleaner down the throat when
starting mine up (takes 3-4 pulls max)

Ken

Duane Bozarth wrote:
zxcvbob wrote:
....

Could also be just a little bit of water in the carburator bowl. ...


But he said he had "no spark", so fuel isn't the problem (yet)
anyway...may be an issue after he's got spark, granted...


He also said the sparkplug works. How does he know? Think about it.

Bob

"zxcvbob" wrote in message ...
Duane Bozarth wrote:
zxcvbob wrote:
Could also be just a little bit of water in the carburator bowl. ...

But he said he had "no spark", so fuel isn't the problem (yet)
anyway...may be an issue after he's got spark, granted...

He also said the sparkplug works. How does he
know? Think about it.
Bob

Plug works. Tested it on a buddy's mower and car ignition. Put it
back in, no spark. (See one other post for details)

"effi" wrote in message ...
"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
effi wrote
OP said and ..."it just wouldn't start. No spark."...
Gas ain't the problem (yet) anyway...

op said "Spark plug works."
confused yet?

Plug works, but no spark.

The magneto normally creates a large potential difference
capable of creating a spark to "fire" the combustion of
gasoline. Apparently, the step-up transformer which
produces enough potential isn't causing the electrons to jump
the gap on the spark plug.

I adjusts a coil near the edge of the flywheel and found
only two sparks (via high-tension wire and ground) during
a start attempt. A second start attempt results with no sparks.
A third attempt results with two sparks after a minor
adjustment to the coil.

The flywheel where magnet is embedded is left alone,
maybe this could be the problem.

So as the flywheel goes around, the magnet passes by the
coil. And should create a rapidly changing magnetic field
which induces a current in the coil, but this isn't happening.
Is a magneto ignition system good only for airplanes? What
are some possibilities I can do to achieve a consistent
spark?

zxcvbob wrote:

Duane Bozarth wrote:
zxcvbob wrote:
....

Could also be just a little bit of water in the carburator bowl. ...


But he said he had "no spark", so fuel isn't the problem (yet)
anyway...may be an issue after he's got spark, granted...

He also said the sparkplug works. How does he know? Think about it.

If you read my initial post I asked the same question...and I note he
did answer it here as well...

Tim Zimmerman wrote:

Is a magneto ignition system good only for airplanes? What
are some possibilities I can do to achieve a consistent
spark?

Magneto systems were used exclusively for a long time...

If it ran before it got wet it's highly likely it's moisture somewhere
in the electrical system...if it didn't, then it's possibly the coil
itself...

On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 07:52:42 GMT, "Tim Zimmerman"
wrote:

"effi" wrote in message ...
"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
effi wrote
OP said and ..."it just wouldn't start. No spark."...
Gas ain't the problem (yet) anyway...

op said "Spark plug works."
confused yet?

Plug works, but no spark.

The magneto normally creates a large potential difference
capable of creating a spark to "fire" the combustion of
gasoline. Apparently, the step-up transformer which
produces enough potential isn't causing the electrons to jump
the gap on the spark plug.

I adjusts a coil near the edge of the flywheel and found
only two sparks (via high-tension wire and ground) during
a start attempt. A second start attempt results with no sparks.
A third attempt results with two sparks after a minor
adjustment to the coil.

When my car acts like that, it's because the cable(s)
that go from the distributor (or whatever they call the
electronic version) to the plugs are shorting out somewhere
in the damp. In that situation a couple hours with a
hair-dryer, and/or a can of chemical wire-dryer usually
fixes it long enough to get the car home.

Are you sure you dried everything out throuroughly?
dampness in the wiring harness can be depressingly
persistant.

Airgap from flywheel to the coil should be about .014 or so, which works out
about the thickness of a cardboard box from spark plugs.

Coil should be dry to work.

Grounding wires to shutoff switch should be insulated, and not grounded.

We talking points or electronic?

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Tim Zimmerman" wrote in message
. ..

Plug works, but no spark.

The magneto normally creates a large potential difference
capable of creating a spark to "fire" the combustion of
gasoline. Apparently, the step-up transformer which
produces enough potential isn't causing the electrons to jump
the gap on the spark plug.

I adjusts a coil near the edge of the flywheel and found
only two sparks (via high-tension wire and ground) during
a start attempt. A second start attempt results with no sparks.
A third attempt results with two sparks after a minor
adjustment to the coil.

The flywheel where magnet is embedded is left alone,
maybe this could be the problem.

So as the flywheel goes around, the magnet passes by the
coil. And should create a rapidly changing magnetic field
which induces a current in the coil, but this isn't happening.
Is a magneto ignition system good only for airplanes? What
are some possibilities I can do to achieve a consistent
spark?

I think we all wonder the same thing here. with points, if it's a
Briggs, some models ( most thatI have dealt with) have opints with the
condensor built onto part of it. I would replace the points/condensor
as a precautionary anyway ,............if it has points.
They might be salvageable, but at the price, I'd just replace them.

We talking points or electronic?



Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply

MUADIB®

http://www.angelfire.com/retro/sster...IN%20PAGE.html

one small step for man,.....
One giant leap for attorneys.

"Goedjn" wrote in snip

Are you sure you dried everything out throuroughly?
dampness in the wiring harness can be depressingly
persistant.

Yes it's dried. It was operational before it was rained on. I
have one other mower which was also rained on. This one
had been dried for months and still no-spark.

The latest one had been dried for only two weeks.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote
Airgap from flywheel to the coil should be about
.014 or so, which works out
about the thickness of a cardboard box from spark plugs.
Coil should be dry to work.
Grounding wires to shutoff switch should be insulated,
and not grounded. We talking points or electronic?

Possibly points. The points could be under the flywheel, and to
remove the flywheel, I need special tools. I'm thinking of installing
an electronic ignition conversion kit, which might cost less than
the tools.

Before converting, I will do more checkup from the new advices.

There are many people here who can help you solve the problem. We
all need more information than what you have given.

Is it a gas or gas/oil mix mower? Do you add oil to the fuel or
do you check oil with a plug or dipstick?
Does it have the extra "dead man" safety handle? I would assume
that a mower with a deadman lever will have electronic ignition.

Being rained on does not kill mowers. The chances of it being too
wet to start is not likely.

Engines need 2 basic things - fuel and spark. To test for spark:
Remove the plug from the block. Install the plug wire. Hold the
tip of the plug against the block where you can see the gap in the
spark plug. Have someone pull the cord. You should see a bright
blue spark as the engine is spun. If you see no spark, first try
a new plug. If you still see no spark, it is time to pull the
flywheel. First thing to check is gap at magneto. Reassemble
checking the condition of the woodruff key. Retry.

Failure to start is more liable to be moisture in fuel related.
It sounds as if you should go to the library to get a repair book
or find a friendly old duffer who could help you.

I just looked in the mirror and realized I am one of those little
old duffers!!!!

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Tim Zimmerman" wrote in message
...
"Goedjn" wrote in snip

Are you sure you dried everything out throuroughly?
dampness in the wiring harness can be depressingly
persistant.

Yes it's dried. It was operational before it was rained on. I
have one other mower which was also rained on. This one
had been dried for months and still no-spark.

The latest one had been dried for only two weeks.

In article , Tim
Zimmerman wrote:

We are thinking of buying
the same make and model which is on sale

How do you know that? Your subject line says "Make, model tag missing".

--
"I'm a man, but I can change... If I have to... I guess." -- Red Green

The electronic ignition modules I've seen (one or two) require you to remove
the flywheel to get at the wires to the coil.

No special tools. Well, brass face hammer. Remove center nut, stick a big
screw driver under the flywheel and pull up good and hard. Use brass face
hammer to pound center of crankshaft good and hard. The impact (combined
with your upward pull) usually pops it loose.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Tim Zimmerman" wrote in message
.. .
"Stormin Mormon" wrote
Airgap from flywheel to the coil should be about
.014 or so, which works out
about the thickness of a cardboard box from spark plugs.
Coil should be dry to work.
Grounding wires to shutoff switch should be insulated,
and not grounded. We talking points or electronic?

Possibly points. The points could be under the flywheel, and to
remove the flywheel, I need special tools. I'm thinking of installing
an electronic ignition conversion kit, which might cost less than
the tools.

Before converting, I will do more checkup from the new advices.