New Drywall Question
 

I'm closing in a hole about 5' x 5'. Based upon the width of the wall and
true width of a 2' x 4' that will be used to frame the hole, I'm left with
3/4" on each side. If I use 5/8" drywall, I will be 1/8" shy of a level
surface. Should I use this method and then fill in the 1/8" with compound
to bring it up or should I rip 1/2" off the framing material so I can get
1" on each side and double up 1/2" drywall on each side to get the drywall
flush with the existing wall? If the latter is the best method, should the
pieces be glued in some way before they are placed up or should the normal
act of screwing them to the joists be enough?

Thanks,
C

C wrote:
I'm closing in a hole about 5' x 5'. Based upon the width of the wall and
true width of a 2' x 4' that will be used to frame the hole, I'm left with
3/4" on each side. If I use 5/8" drywall, I will be 1/8" shy of a level
surface. Should I use this method and then fill in the 1/8" with compound
to bring it up or should I rip 1/2" off the framing material so I can get
1" on each side and double up 1/2" drywall on each side to get the drywall
flush with the existing wall? If the latter is the best method, should the
pieces be glued in some way before they are placed up or should the normal
act of screwing them to the joists be enough?

Thanks,
C

Use 2x4s to frame the opening, then shim out the studs with any thin
stock you have available so that 1/2" or 5/8" drywall will be flush with
the exiting wall. Just about any thin stock will work -- paneling, luan,
plywood, etc.

C wrote:

I'm closing in a hole about 5' x 5'. Based upon the width of the wall and
true width of a 2' x 4' that will be used to frame the hole, I'm left with
3/4" on each side. If I use 5/8" drywall, I will be 1/8" shy of a level
surface. Should I use this method and then fill in the 1/8" with compound
to bring it up or should I rip 1/2" off the framing material so I can get
1" on each side and double up 1/2" drywall on each side to get the drywall
flush with the existing wall? If the latter is the best method, should the
pieces be glued in some way before they are placed up or should the normal
act of screwing them to the joists be enough?

Thanks,
C



I always have the same problem when matching drywall to old plaster and
lathe. Recently, I was doing a job and went to the Borg for drywall.
In that section of the store, I found a package of cardboard material
sold specifically for that purpose. The same width as a 2 x 4, you
stack as many as you need to shim up your panel.

On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 23:31:04 -0600, Mike Paulsen
wrote:

C wrote:
I'm closing in a hole about 5' x 5'. Based upon the width of the wall and
true width of a 2' x 4' that will be used to frame the hole, I'm left with
3/4" on each side. If I use 5/8" drywall, I will be 1/8" shy of a level
surface. Should I use this method and then fill in the 1/8" with compound
to bring it up or should I rip 1/2" off the framing material so I can get
1" on each side and double up 1/2" drywall on each side to get the drywall
flush with the existing wall? If the latter is the best method, should the
pieces be glued in some way before they are placed up or should the normal
act of screwing them to the joists be enough?

Thanks,
C

Use 2x4s to frame the opening, then shim out the studs with any thin
stock you have available so that 1/2" or 5/8" drywall will be flush with
the exiting wall. Just about any thin stock will work -- paneling, luan,
plywood, etc.


Hmm... An excellent idea.

Thanks!

On 16 Jan 2005 01:39:21 EST, Mark and Kim Smith
wrote:

C wrote:

I'm closing in a hole about 5' x 5'. Based upon the width of the wall and
true width of a 2' x 4' that will be used to frame the hole, I'm left with
3/4" on each side. If I use 5/8" drywall, I will be 1/8" shy of a level
surface. Should I use this method and then fill in the 1/8" with compound
to bring it up or should I rip 1/2" off the framing material so I can get
1" on each side and double up 1/2" drywall on each side to get the drywall
flush with the existing wall? If the latter is the best method, should the
pieces be glued in some way before they are placed up or should the normal
act of screwing them to the joists be enough?

Thanks,
C



I always have the same problem when matching drywall to old plaster and
lathe. Recently, I was doing a job and went to the Borg for drywall.
In that section of the store, I found a package of cardboard material
sold specifically for that purpose. The same width as a 2 x 4, you
stack as many as you need to shim up your panel.

That's interesting. I'll have to visit today. This is why I ask questions
to this group. I know that I make things much more complicated for myself
at times and there is usually a simpler method. I know I'm not the only
one who has faced these minor challenges in the past.

Thanks for the tip!

Here's another quick one: After the drywall is up, should I apply a skim
coat of compound to the whole surface or is it acceptable to just prime the
paper and then texture/paint on top of that? I've never seen anywhere
where it says to skim the entire surface, but I thought this might be
better than leaving it as bare paper.

C

"C" wrote in message
...
On 16 Jan 2005 01:39:21 EST, Mark and Kim Smith
wrote:

C wrote:

I'm closing in a hole about 5' x 5'. Based upon the width of the wall
and
true width of a 2' x 4' that will be used to frame the hole, I'm left
with
3/4" on each side. If I use 5/8" drywall, I will be 1/8" shy of a level
surface. Should I use this method and then fill in the 1/8" with
compound
to bring it up or should I rip 1/2" off the framing material so I can
get
1" on each side and double up 1/2" drywall on each side to get the
drywall
flush with the existing wall? If the latter is the best method, should
the
pieces be glued in some way before they are placed up or should the
normal
act of screwing them to the joists be enough?

Thanks,
C



I always have the same problem when matching drywall to old plaster and
lathe. Recently, I was doing a job and went to the Borg for drywall.
In that section of the store, I found a package of cardboard material
sold specifically for that purpose. The same width as a 2 x 4, you
stack as many as you need to shim up your panel.

That's interesting. I'll have to visit today. This is why I ask
questions
to this group. I know that I make things much more complicated for myself
at times and there is usually a simpler method. I know I'm not the only
one who has faced these minor challenges in the past.

Thanks for the tip!

Here's another quick one: After the drywall is up, should I apply a skim
coat of compound to the whole surface or is it acceptable to just prime
the
paper and then texture/paint on top of that? I've never seen anywhere
where it says to skim the entire surface, but I thought this might be
better than leaving it as bare paper.

C

Some painters will tell you that you must primer the drywall before you
texture it, something to do with touching up the paint later on. I don't
really know that much about paint except that I hate doing it. I had told
the painter that if that is what it needed to go ahead and prime first then
I'll texture then he could prime again then paint. All of this for a higher
price of course.
Before he started I talked to a friend that is in the drywall business and
he called a big BS on the notion. He said look at it this way, texture is
just drywall mud, the sheetrock is already covered with mud from all of the
taping. If the painter is correct then you would have the same problem even
if you prime before you texture because you don't prime before you tape.
The primer ended up going on after the texture, saving one day and some
money.
I have read about putting a skim coat on the entire wall, but don't really
see the sense in that either. More money for the contractor?

Just an aside from another thread that I read here about vapor barriers and
insulation. The code (around here at least) has changed and they don't
require a vapor barrier at all except under the house. If the sheetrock is
sealed with a PVA primer and all of the outlet boxes and doors/windows and
bottom plate are caulked they consider that enough.

CR