Ignoramus27473 wrote:
A few days ago I asked a few questions about installing a subpanel in
my garage. I am done with this job. I used 8 gauge THHN wires, 3/4"
conduit, little corner thingys, and ready made bent elbows.

The subpanel is HomeLine. I used a HomeLine 60A breaker on the main
panel (which has all other breakers by Gould), and have the following
breakers on the subpanel:

50A 220V (this is 30A now because I bought 30A by mistake, but I will
replace it with a 50A asap).
20A 220V
20A 110V
20A 110V

I have not yet installed the outlets.

I had a father of my friend visit today, he is a professional
electrician. He okayed my work.

I am going to return my kerosene heater to HD and install a 220V 4.5
kW heater in my garage.

Also, one of the reasons why I did all this is that I have a 2.2HP
compressor (harbr freight), which tripped the breaker when it ran with
other tools. Now it will have its own circuit.

I might install an air line from the garage toi the basement, to have
air in my basement workshop. It should not be difficult.

i


With a 60A breaker, your hot wires should be 6 gauge, not 8. You said
previously that you had already bought the #6 wire, so hopefully you
just mistyped it above.

Other than that, it sounds OK.

I like using 1/2" copper pipe for compressed air, although galvanized is
traditional. Don't use PVC for compressed air.

Best regards,
Bob

"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
Ignoramus27473 wrote:
A few days ago I asked a few questions about installing a subpanel in
my garage. I am done with this job. I used 8 gauge THHN wires, 3/4"
conduit, little corner thingys, and ready made bent elbows.

The subpanel is HomeLine. I used a HomeLine 60A breaker on the main
panel (which has all other breakers by Gould), and have the following
breakers on the subpanel:

50A 220V (this is 30A now because I bought 30A by mistake, but I will
replace it with a 50A asap).
20A 220V
20A 110V
20A 110V

I have not yet installed the outlets.

I had a father of my friend visit today, he is a professional
electrician. He okayed my work.

I am going to return my kerosene heater to HD and install a 220V 4.5
kW heater in my garage. Also, one of the reasons why I did all this is
that I have a 2.2HP
compressor (harbr freight), which tripped the breaker when it ran with
other tools. Now it will have its own circuit.

I might install an air line from the garage toi the basement, to have
air in my basement workshop. It should not be difficult.

i


With a 60A breaker, your hot wires should be 6 gauge, not 8. You said
previously that you had already bought the #6 wire, so hopefully you just
mistyped it above.

Other than that, it sounds OK.

I like using 1/2" copper pipe for compressed air, although galvanized is
traditional. Don't use PVC for compressed air.

Best regards,
Bob

Good advice Bob on not using PVC for air! I have seen that done in an
industrial setting many times and when I questioned it the maintenance dept.
they would point to the pressure rating on the pipe and claim it to be OK.
What they fail to realize is their are surges in air that make it rise
substantially. Also, compressors tend to pass oil, not to mention the warmth
from compression, which degrades the pipe. I saw a few of them blow,
scattering plastic everywhere. Not to mention the holes in the wall. I saw
another situation where there was a plastic coupling at the compressor. A
maintenance worker backed into it and it broke. The air force him into some
metal framework where he took 90 or so stitches in his head!!!

Good advice Bob on not using PVC for air! I have seen that done in an

industrial setting many times and when I questioned it the
maintenance dept.
they would point to the pressure rating on the pipe and claim it to
be OK.

I can't imagine standing next to 1/2" PVC or larger at 120 PSI when it
let go.

I had a 1/8" ID plastic tube let go about 2 feet from my head when
testing a valve years ago. My left ear was ringing for 2 days because
of the sound of the break.

---cut----
I like using 1/2" copper pipe for compressed air, although galvanized is
traditional. Don't use PVC for compressed air.

Best regards,
Bob

Just before Christmas I went to a tire shop and all of their air lines were
schedule 40 PVC.
This system is pressurized during working hours only. I remarked on the
installation to the owner and he said that it was put in just for temporary
4 years ago. Now he fails to see why he should change it. This was the first
installation of pvc for air that I have ever seen.
They were running 90 psi and all 3/4 pipe

SQLit wrote:

---cut----

I like using 1/2" copper pipe for compressed air, although galvanized is
traditional. Don't use PVC for compressed air.

Best regards,
Bob


Just before Christmas I went to a tire shop and all of their air lines were
schedule 40 PVC.
This system is pressurized during working hours only. I remarked on the
installation to the owner and he said that it was put in just for temporary
4 years ago. Now he fails to see why he should change it. This was the first
installation of pvc for air that I have ever seen.
They were running 90 psi and all 3/4 pipe



There is a lot of energy stored in the air in that pipe when it is
pressurized (unlike a pipe that is pressurized with water.) UV rays
will embrittle the plastic over time unless he used gray schedule 80
pipe, and someday some unfortunate idiot will bump that air line on a
cold morning and it will explode into hundreds of sharp jagged pieces.

It will fail eventually, and the failure mode is rather dramatic.

Regards,
Bob