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Newsreader168
 
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Default Carrier Gas Furnace (forced Aire) blow only cold air

Dear All,

2 days ago, my gas frunace started to only blow the cold air and the fan
won't stop. A service guy come in and said the control boad is dead and
charge me $400 to replac it. I decided to do it myself. I bought a new
control board ( manufactured by Carrier, an compatible updated version) and
replaced the board. However, still doing the same, fan won't stop and blow
only cold air. I use voltage meter and measured that between the termnial R
and W, 24 voltage. ( I have 6 terminals on the board, C,Y,GC,GH,R,W) and the
wiring are, 1 on C, 2 on Y , 1 on GC, no wire on GH and 1 on R and 1 on W.

My thermostat is the RiteTemp programmable. It is working fine with my old
board. However, after I installed the new board, when I closed the
thermostat cover, ther is no voltage between the R and W on the board. If I
left the thermostat cover open and measure the board R and W, 24 V. I left
the thermostat cover open and put a paper clip to connect the R and W on the
board, burner won't ignite. If I connect the R and the SEC1 on the board, I
can ignite the burned (which is by pass the board). Can someone help me with
this problem?

Thanks a lot.

Don


  #2   Report Post  
Matt
 
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Default

Don -

It's my opinion that furnaces do not fall under the DIY repair
category. You've already learned one of the reasons why, and in the
process you have already wiped out any money you hoped to save.

But, consider yourself lucky. You aren't dead (yet).

If you proceed down your current path, you are likely to find out
another reason to let the pro's do the work: Bypassing controls for
testing purposes will either kill you or damage something else, which
can kill you later.

You now have a choice: continue guessing at what the problem is, or
calling a service company to do the job right.

PLEASE STOP. The $$$ you think you may save will seem quite meaningless
to those who bury you, or to you as you bury your own.

  #3   Report Post  
Doug Kanter
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Matt" wrote in message
ups.com...
Don -

It's my opinion that furnaces do not fall under the DIY repair
category. You've already learned one of the reasons why, and in the
process you have already wiped out any money you hoped to save.

But, consider yourself lucky. You aren't dead (yet).

If you proceed down your current path, you are likely to find out
another reason to let the pro's do the work: Bypassing controls for
testing purposes will either kill you or damage something else, which
can kill you later.

You now have a choice: continue guessing at what the problem is, or
calling a service company to do the job right.

PLEASE STOP. The $$$ you think you may save will seem quite meaningless
to those who bury you, or to you as you bury your own.


Matt, could you be a little clearer about what you're trying to say here?
:-) :-)

(just kidding!)


  #4   Report Post  
TURTLE
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Matt" wrote in message
ups.com...
Don -

It's my opinion that furnaces do not fall under the DIY repair
category. You've already learned one of the reasons why, and in the
process you have already wiped out any money you hoped to save.

But, consider yourself lucky. You aren't dead (yet).

If you proceed down your current path, you are likely to find out
another reason to let the pro's do the work: Bypassing controls for
testing purposes will either kill you or damage something else, which
can kill you later.

You now have a choice: continue guessing at what the problem is, or
calling a service company to do the job right.

PLEASE STOP. The $$$ you think you may save will seem quite meaningless
to those who bury you, or to you as you bury your own.


This is Turtle.

i feel your waisting your band wide here. A Bought education is being tought
here and your speaking prematurely.

TURTLE


  #5   Report Post  
Matt
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Yes turtle, I agree. The fellow is learning a very costly lesson, but
at this point - it's just money.

I'm not sure I am "waisting my band wide" however, as speaking after
this chap has killed himself or his family is somewhat pointless.



  #6   Report Post  
Bubba
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 14:34:05 GMT, "Newsreader168"
wrote:

Dear All,

2 days ago, my gas frunace started to only blow the cold air and the fan
won't stop. A service guy come in and said the control boad is dead and
charge me $400 to replac it. I decided to do it myself. I bought a new
control board ( manufactured by Carrier, an compatible updated version) and
replaced the board. However, still doing the same, fan won't stop and blow
only cold air. I use voltage meter and measured that between the termnial R
and W, 24 voltage. ( I have 6 terminals on the board, C,Y,GC,GH,R,W) and the
wiring are, 1 on C, 2 on Y , 1 on GC, no wire on GH and 1 on R and 1 on W.

My thermostat is the RiteTemp programmable. It is working fine with my old
board. However, after I installed the new board, when I closed the
thermostat cover, ther is no voltage between the R and W on the board. If I
left the thermostat cover open and measure the board R and W, 24 V. I left
the thermostat cover open and put a paper clip to connect the R and W on the
board, burner won't ignite. If I connect the R and the SEC1 on the board, I
can ignite the burned (which is by pass the board). Can someone help me with
this problem?

Thanks a lot.

Don


Damn! It seems that the $400 that guy was going to charge you isnt
quite that expensive now, is it? Especially considering you probably
cant take that electronic part back. At least if the $400 guy
misdiagnosed it, HE would be eating it, not you. Now comes your big
decision. Do you keep screwing with it, OR do you bite the bullet and
get it done right?
Decisions, decisions..........................
Bubba
  #7   Report Post  
TURTLE
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Matt" wrote in message
oups.com...
Yes turtle, I agree. The fellow is learning a very costly lesson, but
at this point - it's just money.

I'm not sure I am "waisting my band wide" however, as speaking after
this chap has killed himself or his family is somewhat pointless.


This is Turtle.

A rolling stone down a hill gathers no moss and thoughts on the way. If there is
any thinking going on , it will be when it hits the bottom of the hill and stops
rolling. You just can't think when your on a roll.

TURTLE


  #8   Report Post  
TURTLE
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Newsreader168" wrote in message
news:xlUAd.23850$Ff3.6772@trndny04...
Dear All,

2 days ago, my gas frunace started to only blow the cold air and the fan
won't stop. A service guy come in and said the control boad is dead and charge
me $400 to replac it. I decided to do it myself. I bought a new control board
( manufactured by Carrier, an compatible updated version) and replaced the
board. However, still doing the same, fan won't stop and blow only cold air. I
use voltage meter and measured that between the termnial R and W, 24 voltage.
( I have 6 terminals on the board, C,Y,GC,GH,R,W) and the wiring are, 1 on C,
2 on Y , 1 on GC, no wire on GH and 1 on R and 1 on W.

My thermostat is the RiteTemp programmable. It is working fine with my old
board. However, after I installed the new board, when I closed the thermostat
cover, ther is no voltage between the R and W on the board. If I left the
thermostat cover open and measure the board R and W, 24 V. I left the
thermostat cover open and put a paper clip to connect the R and W on the
board, burner won't ignite. If I connect the R and the SEC1 on the board, I
can ignite the burned (which is by pass the board). Can someone help me with
this problem?

Thanks a lot.

Don


This is Turtle.

For me to try to trouble shoot this set up over the internet is atleast a mircle
to get it. Now with out a model and serial number for this furnace and
thermostat it comes under mission impossible. With this said I will speak a
little here.

1) Your working above your head on trouble shoot this set up.

2) You have a burnt ribbon between the Sec 1 & 2 to the R terminal and if you
jumped out before from Pri 1 & 2 to R terminal. You put 120 volts on the 24 volt
system. This usely takes the thermostat out but could just burn the ribbon
between the R and Sec 1 . Now not knowing the model of furnace here it may have
a 3 amp fuse in the board or other areas and you would blow it. And the
possiblitys keep going.

3) There is a possiblity you have the wrong board or something is not wired up
correctly. Did you read on the board instructs as to what furnace numbers the
board will replace. It should be in the board paper work. Also check the board
paper work for any conversion items to do with the listed furnaces.

4) You can have a tripped high limit on the heat exchanger and it will on some
furnaces run the fan as a result [ but rare ] but usely will not break the Sec.
1 to the R terminal.

5) Well i can say there is only 74 possiblitys here and it is hard to list
them without a model number to try to lower that number to maybe 21 with the
model number and I'm right next giving up here. Well yes i give up.

6) You need to call the hvac service company to come get it straighten out for
I give up. Sorry here !

TURTLE


  #9   Report Post  
TURTLE
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Bubba" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 14:34:05 GMT, "Newsreader168"
wrote:

Dear All,

2 days ago, my gas frunace started to only blow the cold air and the fan
won't stop. A service guy come in and said the control boad is dead and
charge me $400 to replac it. I decided to do it myself. I bought a new
control board ( manufactured by Carrier, an compatible updated version) and
replaced the board. However, still doing the same, fan won't stop and blow
only cold air. I use voltage meter and measured that between the termnial R
and W, 24 voltage. ( I have 6 terminals on the board, C,Y,GC,GH,R,W) and the
wiring are, 1 on C, 2 on Y , 1 on GC, no wire on GH and 1 on R and 1 on W.

My thermostat is the RiteTemp programmable. It is working fine with my old
board. However, after I installed the new board, when I closed the
thermostat cover, ther is no voltage between the R and W on the board. If I
left the thermostat cover open and measure the board R and W, 24 V. I left
the thermostat cover open and put a paper clip to connect the R and W on the
board, burner won't ignite. If I connect the R and the SEC1 on the board, I
can ignite the burned (which is by pass the board). Can someone help me with
this problem?

Thanks a lot.

Don


Damn! It seems that the $400 that guy was going to charge you isnt
quite that expensive now, is it? Especially considering you probably
cant take that electronic part back. At least if the $400 guy
misdiagnosed it, HE would be eating it, not you. Now comes your big
decision. Do you keep screwing with it, OR do you bite the bullet and
get it done right?
Decisions, decisions..........................
Bubba


This is Turtle.

Hey Bubba , What will burn if you jump Pri 1 to the R terminal , you know 120
volt to the 24 volt system ?

TURTLE


  #10   Report Post  
Bubba
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 23:26:07 -0600, "TURTLE"
wrote:


"Bubba" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 14:34:05 GMT, "Newsreader168"
wrote:

Dear All,

2 days ago, my gas frunace started to only blow the cold air and the fan
won't stop. A service guy come in and said the control boad is dead and
charge me $400 to replac it. I decided to do it myself. I bought a new
control board ( manufactured by Carrier, an compatible updated version) and
replaced the board. However, still doing the same, fan won't stop and blow
only cold air. I use voltage meter and measured that between the termnial R
and W, 24 voltage. ( I have 6 terminals on the board, C,Y,GC,GH,R,W) and the
wiring are, 1 on C, 2 on Y , 1 on GC, no wire on GH and 1 on R and 1 on W.

My thermostat is the RiteTemp programmable. It is working fine with my old
board. However, after I installed the new board, when I closed the
thermostat cover, ther is no voltage between the R and W on the board. If I
left the thermostat cover open and measure the board R and W, 24 V. I left
the thermostat cover open and put a paper clip to connect the R and W on the
board, burner won't ignite. If I connect the R and the SEC1 on the board, I
can ignite the burned (which is by pass the board). Can someone help me with
this problem?

Thanks a lot.

Don


Damn! It seems that the $400 that guy was going to charge you isnt
quite that expensive now, is it? Especially considering you probably
cant take that electronic part back. At least if the $400 guy
misdiagnosed it, HE would be eating it, not you. Now comes your big
decision. Do you keep screwing with it, OR do you bite the bullet and
get it done right?
Decisions, decisions..........................
Bubba


This is Turtle.

Hey Bubba , What will burn if you jump Pri 1 to the R terminal , you know 120
volt to the 24 volt system ?

TURTLE

Just about anything in its path.
Bubba


  #11   Report Post  
TURTLE
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Bubba" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 23:26:07 -0600, "TURTLE"
wrote:


"Bubba" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 14:34:05 GMT, "Newsreader168"
wrote:

Dear All,

2 days ago, my gas frunace started to only blow the cold air and the fan
won't stop. A service guy come in and said the control boad is dead and
charge me $400 to replac it. I decided to do it myself. I bought a new
control board ( manufactured by Carrier, an compatible updated version) and
replaced the board. However, still doing the same, fan won't stop and blow
only cold air. I use voltage meter and measured that between the termnial R
and W, 24 voltage. ( I have 6 terminals on the board, C,Y,GC,GH,R,W) and the
wiring are, 1 on C, 2 on Y , 1 on GC, no wire on GH and 1 on R and 1 on W.

My thermostat is the RiteTemp programmable. It is working fine with my old
board. However, after I installed the new board, when I closed the
thermostat cover, ther is no voltage between the R and W on the board. If I
left the thermostat cover open and measure the board R and W, 24 V. I left
the thermostat cover open and put a paper clip to connect the R and W on the
board, burner won't ignite. If I connect the R and the SEC1 on the board, I
can ignite the burned (which is by pass the board). Can someone help me with
this problem?

Thanks a lot.

Don


Damn! It seems that the $400 that guy was going to charge you isnt
quite that expensive now, is it? Especially considering you probably
cant take that electronic part back. At least if the $400 guy
misdiagnosed it, HE would be eating it, not you. Now comes your big
decision. Do you keep screwing with it, OR do you bite the bullet and
get it done right?
Decisions, decisions..........................
Bubba


This is Turtle.

Hey Bubba , What will burn if you jump Pri 1 to the R terminal , you know 120
volt to the 24 volt system ?

TURTLE

Just about anything in its path.
Bubba


This is Turtle.

Hummmm, New Board and thermostat I see.

TURTLE


  #12   Report Post  
Matt
 
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Default

Well, I can't argue with that.

You cajun *******s sure do have a different way of looking at the
world!

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