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#1
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Bathtub surround replacement HELP
That's exactly the problem I'm facing now. I'm redoing my 5x8 bathroom
and installed an Americast bathtub, which is about 3/8 inch thick all around, also at the lip. I can't fathom how I would bend cement board that far out from the studs (even though that's what one of the guys at the place where I bought the tub suggested). It wouldn't match up with the rest of the wall and getting the tiles in the corners right would be difficult. So I'm leaning towards letting the cement board sit on the lip. On the other hand, the tub instructions say to nail the tub against the studs with roofing nails to hold it in place. Makes sense. They also say to put a shim on the other side of the nail. Makes sense as well. However, the shims would have to be 3/8 inch thick as well, if they should serve any purpose, and then they'd be in the way of the cement board which should be resting on top of the lip. What should I do? Should I make cut outs in the cement board for those shims? Should I carve away that 1/8 of an inch from the cement board where the nail will be and so to speak use the cement board as the shim? Sorry for asking this stupid question, but I want to do it right and not twice. Thanks, Thomas |
#2
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I had the same problem. I use the 4mil (?I cant really remember the
thickness of the poly off the top of my head?) poly as a vapor barrier behind the backer board and used copious amounts of good silicone adhesive to adhere the poly and then I used thinset to fill the gap between the backerboard and the top of the tub (being careful not to let the thinset protrude past the vertical plane of the backerboard.). I then let the tile hang down over the small gap and used the standard bath tub tile caulk to seal the joint. I tried to use the tar paper for the vapor barrier as recommended by several books and helpful borg folks. But I found the corners much too troublesome to do right by myself. Not sure if having an extra pare of hands would have really helped though. not sure bout the rest of your issues, the back side of my tub rested on a couple of braces, no need for nails through the rim or shims. Hope this helps jbh wrote in message oups.com... That's exactly the problem I'm facing now. I'm redoing my 5x8 bathroom and installed an Americast bathtub, which is about 3/8 inch thick all around, also at the lip. I can't fathom how I would bend cement board that far out from the studs (even though that's what one of the guys at the place where I bought the tub suggested). It wouldn't match up with the rest of the wall and getting the tiles in the corners right would be difficult. So I'm leaning towards letting the cement board sit on the lip. On the other hand, the tub instructions say to nail the tub against the studs with roofing nails to hold it in place. Makes sense. They also say to put a shim on the other side of the nail. Makes sense as well. However, the shims would have to be 3/8 inch thick as well, if they should serve any purpose, and then they'd be in the way of the cement board which should be resting on top of the lip. What should I do? Should I make cut outs in the cement board for those shims? Should I carve away that 1/8 of an inch from the cement board where the nail will be and so to speak use the cement board as the shim? Sorry for asking this stupid question, but I want to do it right and not twice. Thanks, Thomas |
#3
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JB,
Thanks for the feedback ... I also ended up calling the company's customer service. The first answer I got was to let the backer board hang over the lip. When I mentioned that the shims would have to be 3/8 inch the service rep told me I could let the board end above the lip and use no shims. Using shims would mean using them top to bottom, on all studs in the bathroom. And who wants to do that. Thomas jbh wrote: I had the same problem. I use the 4mil (?I cant really remember the thickness of the poly off the top of my head?) poly as a vapor barrier behind the backer board and used copious amounts of good silicone adhesive to adhere the poly and then I used thinset to fill the gap between the backerboard and the top of the tub (being careful not to let the thinset protrude past the vertical plane of the backerboard.). I then let the tile hang down over the small gap and used the standard bath tub tile caulk to seal the joint. I tried to use the tar paper for the vapor barrier as recommended by several books and helpful borg folks. But I found the corners much too troublesome to do right by myself. Not sure if having an extra pare of hands would have really helped though. not sure bout the rest of your issues, the back side of my tub rested on a couple of braces, no need for nails through the rim or shims. Hope this helps jbh wrote in message oups.com... That's exactly the problem I'm facing now. I'm redoing my 5x8 bathroom and installed an Americast bathtub, which is about 3/8 inch thick all around, also at the lip. I can't fathom how I would bend cement board that far out from the studs (even though that's what one of the guys at the place where I bought the tub suggested). It wouldn't match up with the rest of the wall and getting the tiles in the corners right would be difficult. So I'm leaning towards letting the cement board sit on the lip. On the other hand, the tub instructions say to nail the tub against the studs with roofing nails to hold it in place. Makes sense. They also say to put a shim on the other side of the nail. Makes sense as well. However, the shims would have to be 3/8 inch thick as well, if they should serve any purpose, and then they'd be in the way of the cement board which should be resting on top of the lip. What should I do? Should I make cut outs in the cement board for those shims? Should I carve away that 1/8 of an inch from the cement board where the nail will be and so to speak use the cement board as the shim? Sorry for asking this stupid question, but I want to do it right and not twice. Thanks, Thomas |
#4
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I just did two of these and I used shims top to bottom.
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#5
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Pat wrote:
I just did two of these and I used shims top to bottom. Why did you do it the shims way, and what are the pros and cons as opposed to stopping the cement board above the lip? Thanks, Thomas |
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