Light bulbs, heat and GDOs
 

After scanning many message boards about Sears/Craftsman garage door
openers, I found a lot of problems with their logic boards.

Yesterday I had a Sears technician troubleshoot a chattering originating
from the long screw in the channel (3/4hp screw drive model), and he
mentioned not to use 100w light bulbs due to excessive heat, especially on
the logic board side -- the one where the wires connect. Even though my GDO
is rated for 100w bulbs. He says the heat is the main cause of logic board
failure. He recommends only up to 60w.

For some reason, that makes a lot of sense. Indeed with the 100w bulb in
there, the plastic casing even with the metallic reflective foil became very
hot.

SO, reduce the heat by using lesser wattage bulbs. Hmm...wonder how compact
flourescents would work.

BTW, the chattering...he squirted WD-40 (?!?) and declared the sound as
normal. Sucky tech, but at least got some good advice from him.

Ron wrote:
After scanning many message boards about Sears/Craftsman garage door
openers, I found a lot of problems with their logic boards.

Yesterday I had a Sears technician troubleshoot a chattering originating
from the long screw in the channel (3/4hp screw drive model), and he
mentioned not to use 100w light bulbs due to excessive heat, especially on
the logic board side -- the one where the wires connect. Even though my GDO
is rated for 100w bulbs. He says the heat is the main cause of logic board
failure. He recommends only up to 60w.

For some reason, that makes a lot of sense. Indeed with the 100w bulb in
there, the plastic casing even with the metallic reflective foil became very
hot.

SO, reduce the heat by using lesser wattage bulbs. Hmm...wonder how compact
flourescents would work.

BTW, the chattering...he squirted WD-40 (?!?) and declared the sound as
normal. Sucky tech, but at least got some good advice from him.


Hi,
For that reason and others, I installed motion sensor driven light
fixture in the garage. I removed bulb from the GDO long time ago.
When car drives in or some one walks in from side door, the light
activates and it goes out after set delay. You know that WD-40 is not
really lubricant. It's cleaner basically. I use Teflon based spray
lubricant.
Once or twice a year.
Tony

I put 2 CFLs in my GDO about a year ago. The only 2 problems are, the
plastic translucent cover no longer fit and CFLs start off dimmer when
you first turn them on. So, I left off the cover ... that's ok and used
higher wattage bulbs. I get lots more light (especially once they warm
up) and, so far, no problems. As there is no traditional filament in
the CFLs, I would suspect vibration shouldn't be a problem.

Ron wrote:
After scanning many message boards about Sears/Craftsman garage door
openers, I found a lot of problems with their logic boards.

Yesterday I had a Sears technician troubleshoot a chattering originating
from the long screw in the channel (3/4hp screw drive model), and he
mentioned not to use 100w light bulbs due to excessive heat, especially on
the logic board side -- the one where the wires connect. Even though my GDO
is rated for 100w bulbs. He says the heat is the main cause of logic board
failure. He recommends only up to 60w.

For some reason, that makes a lot of sense. Indeed with the 100w bulb in
there, the plastic casing even with the metallic reflective foil became very
hot.

SO, reduce the heat by using lesser wattage bulbs. Hmm...wonder how compact
flourescents would work.

BTW, the chattering...he squirted WD-40 (?!?) and declared the sound as
normal. Sucky tech, but at least got some good advice from him.

I have had CFLs in my opener for about 3 years with no problems the cold
does effect them but they do warm up pretty quickly the other thing you can
do is make an extension and mount a standard light on a rafter. You can get
a duplex outlet screw adapter then just pick up a couple of those clamp on
type lamps to hang on the rafter. No heat no vibration and plenty of light!

Wayne


"Art Todesco" wrote in message
news:i%gvd.651368$mD.129770@attbi_s02...
I put 2 CFLs in my GDO about a year ago. The only 2 problems are, the
plastic translucent cover no longer fit and CFLs start off dimmer when you
first turn them on. So, I left off the cover ... that's ok and used higher
wattage bulbs. I get lots more light (especially once they warm up) and,
so far, no problems. As there is no traditional filament in the CFLs, I
would suspect vibration shouldn't be a problem.

Ron wrote:
After scanning many message boards about Sears/Craftsman garage door
openers, I found a lot of problems with their logic boards.

Yesterday I had a Sears technician troubleshoot a chattering originating
from the long screw in the channel (3/4hp screw drive model), and he
mentioned not to use 100w light bulbs due to excessive heat, especially
on the logic board side -- the one where the wires connect. Even though
my GDO is rated for 100w bulbs. He says the heat is the main cause of
logic board failure. He recommends only up to 60w.

For some reason, that makes a lot of sense. Indeed with the 100w bulb in
there, the plastic casing even with the metallic reflective foil became
very hot.

SO, reduce the heat by using lesser wattage bulbs. Hmm...wonder how
compact flourescents would work.

BTW, the chattering...he squirted WD-40 (?!?) and declared the sound
as normal. Sucky tech, but at least got some good advice from him.

Ron wrote:
After scanning many message boards about Sears/Craftsman garage door
openers, I found a lot of problems with their logic boards.

Yesterday I had a Sears technician troubleshoot a chattering
originating from the long screw in the channel (3/4hp screw drive
model), and he mentioned not to use 100w light bulbs due to excessive
heat, especially on the logic board side -- the one where the wires
connect. Even though my GDO is rated for 100w bulbs. He says the
heat is the main cause of logic board failure. He recommends only up
to 60w.
For some reason, that makes a lot of sense. Indeed with the 100w
bulb in there, the plastic casing even with the metallic reflective
foil became very hot.

SO, reduce the heat by using lesser wattage bulbs. Hmm...wonder how
compact flourescents would work.

BTW, the chattering...he squirted WD-40 (?!?) and declared the
sound as normal. Sucky tech, but at least got some good advice from
him.

Good advice about the lights. I always go one level lower than
specified on any fixture. In my garage I have compact florescent lamps and
they are working fine. The 11W spiral jobs fit fine and give more light
than the 40's I had before.

--
Joseph Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

"Ron" wrote in message
...
After scanning many message boards about Sears/Craftsman garage door
openers, I found a lot of problems with their logic boards.

Yesterday I had a Sears technician troubleshoot a chattering originating
from the long screw in the channel (3/4hp screw drive model), and he
mentioned not to use 100w light bulbs due to excessive heat, especially on
the logic board side -- the one where the wires connect. Even though my
GDO is rated for 100w bulbs. He says the heat is the main cause of logic
board failure. He recommends only up to 60w.

For some reason, that makes a lot of sense. Indeed with the 100w bulb in
there, the plastic casing even with the metallic reflective foil became
very hot.

SO, reduce the heat by using lesser wattage bulbs. Hmm...wonder how
compact flourescents would work.

BTW, the chattering...he squirted WD-40 (?!?) and declared the sound
as normal. Sucky tech, but at least got some good advice from him.
I use a compact fluorescent because vibration on opening and closing caused
short life on an incandescent lamp bulb. W W

"Warren Weber" wrote in message
...

"Ron" wrote in message
...
After scanning many message boards about Sears/Craftsman garage door
openers, I found a lot of problems with their logic boards.

Yesterday I had a Sears technician troubleshoot a chattering originating
from the long screw in the channel (3/4hp screw drive model), and he
mentioned not to use 100w light bulbs due to excessive heat, especially
on
the logic board side -- the one where the wires connect. Even though my
GDO is rated for 100w bulbs. He says the heat is the main cause of
logic
board failure. He recommends only up to 60w.

For some reason, that makes a lot of sense. Indeed with the 100w bulb
in
there, the plastic casing even with the metallic reflective foil became
very hot.

SO, reduce the heat by using lesser wattage bulbs. Hmm...wonder how
compact flourescents would work.

BTW, the chattering...he squirted WD-40 (?!?) and declared the sound
as normal. Sucky tech, but at least got some good advice from him.
I use a compact fluorescent because vibration on opening and closing
caused
short life on an incandescent lamp bulb. W W

I put CF's in mine 10 years ago. The old house the lamps were 9 years old
when I took them out, sold the home.
New home had to put in an different bulb cause the covers would not fit. I
used the COSTCO-- 60 watt equivalent model. They have been in for almost a
year.