DON'T buy self stick vinyl tiles!! They're total crap!!

Use the template method and cut out and install sheet vinyl. Make
sure the existing floor is in good condition. If so, you don't need to
remove it.

Go to a real flooring store vs. Home Crapo and they'll sell you the
correct mastic for the sheet vinyl and subfloor.

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 20:07:48 -0600, "Lets Play Two"
wrote:

Hi Folks:

I've never laid down vinyl tile but my lady friend has asked me to do this
for her kitchen sometime in Jan/Feb.

She has old vinyl tile in her kitchen. Probobly will just lay down new
vinyl tile rather than ceramic. Is there a decent web-site that shows how
to do this?

Now for some questions after visiting home depot yesterday:

1. They have the self-sticking vinyl tile as well as the non-sticking vinyl
which requires the tile paste. Which is the best tile to get? The
self-sticking tile seems easier/cheaper to install but I have to wonder if
using the paste along with the non-sticking tile will produce better
results?

2. If going with the non-sticking tile, what is the best glue/adhesive to
use?

3. Home depot rents out an electric tile remover for $48 per day. Does
anyone have experience with these that can tell me if this is worth getting
rather than using a hand-scraper to remove the tile?

thanks for any advice!!!

"Lets Play Two" wrote in message
...
Hi Folks:

I've never laid down vinyl tile but my lady friend has asked me to do this
for her kitchen sometime in Jan/Feb.

She has old vinyl tile in her kitchen. Probobly will just lay down new
vinyl tile rather than ceramic. Is there a decent web-site that shows
how
to do this?

Now for some questions after visiting home depot yesterday:

1. They have the self-sticking vinyl tile as well as the non-sticking
vinyl
which requires the tile paste. Which is the best tile to get? The
self-sticking tile seems easier/cheaper to install but I have to wonder if
using the paste along with the non-sticking tile will produce better
results?

2. If going with the non-sticking tile, what is the best glue/adhesive to
use?

3. Home depot rents out an electric tile remover for $48 per day. Does
anyone have experience with these that can tell me if this is worth
getting
rather than using a hand-scraper to remove the tile?

thanks for any advice!!!


self stick vinyl floor tiles work fine when installed in a properly prepared
area - consult tile manufacturer for installation instructions

some cracks will be more visible than others when using squares and they
"set"

if you don't want any cracks, use one large piece of vinyl

do you know if the existing vinyl tile has asbestos in it?

some of the stuff from the 70s era did

have it removed by someone qualified to remove asbestos tile if you're gonna
remove it

some simply put new (non asbestos) tile on top of old asbestos tile rather
than have to deal with properly removing it, the advisability of doing that
is unknown

a hint on installation of tile squares: if it's a small area, tiles laid on
the diagonal (instead of the square) make a small room look larger

Hi Folks:

I've never laid down vinyl tile but my lady friend has asked me to do this
for her kitchen sometime in Jan/Feb.

She has old vinyl tile in her kitchen. Probobly will just lay down new
vinyl tile rather than ceramic. Is there a decent web-site that shows how
to do this?

Now for some questions after visiting home depot yesterday:

1. They have the self-sticking vinyl tile as well as the non-sticking vinyl
which requires the tile paste. Which is the best tile to get? The
self-sticking tile seems easier/cheaper to install but I have to wonder if
using the paste along with the non-sticking tile will produce better
results?

2. If going with the non-sticking tile, what is the best glue/adhesive to
use?

3. Home depot rents out an electric tile remover for $48 per day. Does
anyone have experience with these that can tell me if this is worth getting
rather than using a hand-scraper to remove the tile?

thanks for any advice!!!

Hello:

do you know if the existing vinyl tile has asbestos in it?

I don't think these tiles have asbestos. They're definitely old (from the
70's) but very thin and flexible. I've seen the ones at home depot with
the asbestos and those are a little bit thicker/sturdier than the flimsy
(easily bendable) thin vinyl tiles that she has.

Based on what you're saying, maybe the non-stick tiles are the way to go as
her floor underneath seems "bumpy" and I guess I could use an electric
sander to smooth it out but I would not be sanding wood, rather it would be
the dried up glue/adhesive (it's black and ridgedy and bumpy as I looked
uunder one of her tiles that is coming loose. I'm not sure the easiest way
to smooth out that surface.

thanks!!!

"effi" wrote in message
...
"Lets Play Two" wrote in message
...
Hi Folks:

I've never laid down vinyl tile but my lady friend has asked me to do
this
for her kitchen sometime in Jan/Feb.

She has old vinyl tile in her kitchen. Probobly will just lay down new
vinyl tile rather than ceramic. Is there a decent web-site that shows
how
to do this?

Now for some questions after visiting home depot yesterday:

1. They have the self-sticking vinyl tile as well as the non-sticking
vinyl
which requires the tile paste. Which is the best tile to get? The
self-sticking tile seems easier/cheaper to install but I have to wonder
if
using the paste along with the non-sticking tile will produce better
results?

2. If going with the non-sticking tile, what is the best glue/adhesive
to
use?

3. Home depot rents out an electric tile remover for $48 per day. Does
anyone have experience with these that can tell me if this is worth
getting
rather than using a hand-scraper to remove the tile?

thanks for any advice!!!


self stick vinyl floor tiles work fine when installed in a properly
prepared
area - consult tile manufacturer for installation instructions

some cracks will be more visible than others when using squares and they
"set"

if you don't want any cracks, use one large piece of vinyl

do you know if the existing vinyl tile has asbestos in it?

some of the stuff from the 70s era did

have it removed by someone qualified to remove asbestos tile if you're
gonna
remove it

some simply put new (non asbestos) tile on top of old asbestos tile rather
than have to deal with properly removing it, the advisability of doing
that
is unknown

a hint on installation of tile squares: if it's a small area, tiles laid
on
the diagonal (instead of the square) make a small room look larger

From the 70's they are just about guaranteed to be full of asbestos. Get
them tested before your friend sues you for filling her house with asbestos
dust.


"Lets Play Two" wrote in message
...
Hello:

do you know if the existing vinyl tile has asbestos in it?

I don't think these tiles have asbestos. They're definitely old (from the
70's) but very thin and flexible. I've seen the ones at home depot with
the asbestos and those are a little bit thicker/sturdier than the flimsy
(easily bendable) thin vinyl tiles that she has.

Based on what you're saying, maybe the non-stick tiles are the way to go
as
her floor underneath seems "bumpy" and I guess I could use an electric
sander to smooth it out but I would not be sanding wood, rather it would
be
the dried up glue/adhesive (it's black and ridgedy and bumpy as I looked
uunder one of her tiles that is coming loose. I'm not sure the easiest
way
to smooth out that surface.

thanks!!!

"effi" wrote in message
...
"Lets Play Two" wrote in message
...
Hi Folks:

I've never laid down vinyl tile but my lady friend has asked me to do
this
for her kitchen sometime in Jan/Feb.

She has old vinyl tile in her kitchen. Probobly will just lay down
new
vinyl tile rather than ceramic. Is there a decent web-site that shows
how
to do this?

Now for some questions after visiting home depot yesterday:

1. They have the self-sticking vinyl tile as well as the non-sticking
vinyl
which requires the tile paste. Which is the best tile to get? The
self-sticking tile seems easier/cheaper to install but I have to wonder
if
using the paste along with the non-sticking tile will produce better
results?

2. If going with the non-sticking tile, what is the best glue/adhesive
to
use?

3. Home depot rents out an electric tile remover for $48 per day.
Does
anyone have experience with these that can tell me if this is worth
getting
rather than using a hand-scraper to remove the tile?

thanks for any advice!!!


self stick vinyl floor tiles work fine when installed in a properly
prepared
area - consult tile manufacturer for installation instructions

some cracks will be more visible than others when using squares and they
"set"

if you don't want any cracks, use one large piece of vinyl

do you know if the existing vinyl tile has asbestos in it?

some of the stuff from the 70s era did

have it removed by someone qualified to remove asbestos tile if you're
gonna
remove it

some simply put new (non asbestos) tile on top of old asbestos tile
rather
than have to deal with properly removing it, the advisability of doing
that
is unknown

a hint on installation of tile squares: if it's a small area, tiles laid
on
the diagonal (instead of the square) make a small room look larger

"Lets Play Two" wrote in message
...
Hello:

do you know if the existing vinyl tile has asbestos in it?

I don't think these tiles have asbestos. They're definitely old (from the
70's) but very thin and flexible. I've seen the ones at home depot with
the asbestos and those are a little bit thicker/sturdier than the flimsy
(easily bendable) thin vinyl tiles that she has.


you mean home depot has sample asbestos tiles to show what not to get?

i read what you wrote and am reasonably sure home depot wouldn't be selling
asbestos tiles if you were referring to some home depot sells




Based on what you're saying, maybe the non-stick tiles are the way to go
as
her floor underneath seems "bumpy" and I guess I could use an electric
sander to smooth it out but I would not be sanding wood, rather it would
be
the dried up glue/adhesive (it's black and ridgedy and bumpy as I looked
uunder one of her tiles that is coming loose. I'm not sure the easiest
way
to smooth out that surface.

one approach, assuming no asbestos to remediate, might be to simply sand the
existing tile surface for better adhesion and put the new tile on the old

ideally, also assuming no asbestos to remediate, one might remove all glues
etc. down to the base flooring (scrape and sand) which is often wood or
concrete, then apply the new tiles to the bare, prepared wood or concrete
surface



thanks!!!

"effi" wrote in message
...
"Lets Play Two" wrote in message
...
Hi Folks:

I've never laid down vinyl tile but my lady friend has asked me to do
this
for her kitchen sometime in Jan/Feb.

She has old vinyl tile in her kitchen. Probobly will just lay down
new
vinyl tile rather than ceramic. Is there a decent web-site that shows
how
to do this?

Now for some questions after visiting home depot yesterday:

1. They have the self-sticking vinyl tile as well as the non-sticking
vinyl
which requires the tile paste. Which is the best tile to get? The
self-sticking tile seems easier/cheaper to install but I have to wonder
if
using the paste along with the non-sticking tile will produce better
results?

2. If going with the non-sticking tile, what is the best glue/adhesive
to
use?

3. Home depot rents out an electric tile remover for $48 per day.
Does
anyone have experience with these that can tell me if this is worth
getting
rather than using a hand-scraper to remove the tile?

thanks for any advice!!!


self stick vinyl floor tiles work fine when installed in a properly
prepared
area - consult tile manufacturer for installation instructions

some cracks will be more visible than others when using squares and they
"set"

if you don't want any cracks, use one large piece of vinyl

do you know if the existing vinyl tile has asbestos in it?

some of the stuff from the 70s era did

have it removed by someone qualified to remove asbestos tile if you're
gonna
remove it

some simply put new (non asbestos) tile on top of old asbestos tile
rather
than have to deal with properly removing it, the advisability of doing
that
is unknown

a hint on installation of tile squares: if it's a small area, tiles laid
on
the diagonal (instead of the square) make a small room look larger

"Lets Play Two" wrote in message
...
Hi Folks:

I've never laid down vinyl tile but my lady friend has asked me to do this
for her kitchen sometime in Jan/Feb.

She has old vinyl tile in her kitchen. Probobly will just lay down new
vinyl tile rather than ceramic. Is there a decent web-site that shows
how
to do this?

Now for some questions after visiting home depot yesterday:

1. They have the self-sticking vinyl tile as well as the non-sticking
vinyl
which requires the tile paste. Which is the best tile to get? The
self-sticking tile seems easier/cheaper to install but I have to wonder if
using the paste along with the non-sticking tile will produce better
results?

2. If going with the non-sticking tile, what is the best glue/adhesive to
use?

3. Home depot rents out an electric tile remover for $48 per day. Does
anyone have experience with these that can tell me if this is worth
getting
rather than using a hand-scraper to remove the tile?

thanks for any advice!!!



There are several possibilities here. First off you might have no wax vinyl
These have no asbestos , are flexible and if they have been on the floor for
20-30 years they probably have gaps around each square where the tiles have
shrunk.

You also might have vinyl composition tiles. These are hard but have no
asbestos. These are the ones you can buy today.

You night also have vinyl asbestos tiles. They also are hard and brittle
and are a health risk if you grind or sand them. If you remove them by
scraping, there is no problem. (Except disposal. If you show up at the dump
with a pickup full of these they will probably charge you a haz-mat fee) I
had these in my shop and when the shopping center was sold the new owners
abated all the asbestos. The crew had a little air sampling machine that
ran for 24 hours during and after the chip up of the tiles. None of the
crew wore any kind of special gear and since I watched the whole process I
asked them why no suits or masks. They said that all the asbestos is stuck
in the plastic matrix of the tile. The little air sampler was required by
the safety nazis but that unless there is grinding of the tiles, (never done
in practice) none of the fibers become airborne.

On the other hand, They had the movie theater closed down for about a month,
the whole place was draped in plastic and the folks working there were
dressed like Star Wars storm troopers to remove the fluffy sprayed on
asbestos from the duct work.

As far as the electric scrapers go, unless you are going to chip up a whole
lot of tiles, a hand scraper works very well and even if it a big kitchen
you will probably have the tiles popped in about an hour or so.

The biggest problem is dealing with the stickum left after the tiles are
gone. The floor guys use a wide razor on a handle and scrape as much as
they can off, then they float a plaster stuff over what's left to give a
smooth surface to lay the new tile.

If you put down the composition tile, that stuff wears forever (think about
the grocery store) the problem is you need to wax and buff the stuff or it
looks dull and dreary. Also periodically you need to strip off the old wax
and reapply and buff.

The other option is to use sheet goods. Unless you require no seams and
have very little prep work to do, it might be worth looking into having the
floor guy do the job. I am a big into the DYI thing but the floor guys are
in and out and usually only bill you $50 an hour or so.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

Lets Play Two wrote:
Based on what you're saying, maybe the non-stick tiles are the way to
go as her floor underneath seems "bumpy" and I guess I could use an
electric sander to smooth it out but I would not be sanding wood,
rather it would be the dried up glue/adhesive (it's black and ridgedy
and bumpy as I looked uunder one of her tiles that is coming loose.
I'm not sure the easiest way to smooth out that surface.

The subfloor must be absolutely smooth. The smallest imperfection will
migrate through any tile (except, obviously, ceramic) and mirror itself on
the new surface. You MUST fill-in all depressions (even those as small as a
pencil lead) and scrape off or sand down and bumps.

Ignore the advice about asbestos. It's just "stuff." No one has ever been
harmed by a commercial product containing asbestos.

If you DO have asbestos - and have trouble getting rid of it - one view is
to leave it in a schoolyard at night. Since the government made it so hard
to deal with the material, let them take care of it.