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themeanies
 
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Default Suggestions for drywall joint repair.

This damage is the result of a **** poor job of re-roofing a house. The
roof has been repaired and we have verified there is no more leakage.
Now to repair the damage. The damage is at a horizontal drywall joint.
I have verified from the attic that there is no mold/mildew/etc. Just
discolored drywall. We live in a very dry climate, thank goodness.

Do you all have any suggestions for repairing this area? It's about 16"
of exposed joint. I have removed all of the loosened texture and joint
compound.

Should I try to patch with drywall compound and tape, or is there an
easier(and as effective) method?

Thanks for any help.

Pictures:
http://www.tekn0lust.com/images/IMG01.JPG
http://www.tekn0lust.com/images/IMG02.JPG
http://www.tekn0lust.com/images/IMG03.JPG

Thanks,
tM
  #2   Report Post  
SQLit
 
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"themeanies" wrote in message
...
This damage is the result of a **** poor job of re-roofing a house. The
roof has been repaired and we have verified there is no more leakage.
Now to repair the damage. The damage is at a horizontal drywall joint.
I have verified from the attic that there is no mold/mildew/etc. Just
discolored drywall. We live in a very dry climate, thank goodness.

Do you all have any suggestions for repairing this area? It's about 16"
of exposed joint. I have removed all of the loosened texture and joint
compound.

Should I try to patch with drywall compound and tape, or is there an
easier(and as effective) method?

Thanks for any help.

Pictures:
http://www.tekn0lust.com/images/IMG01.JPG
http://www.tekn0lust.com/images/IMG02.JPG
http://www.tekn0lust.com/images/IMG03.JPG

Thanks,
tM


Your going to be in for some work here. I would use fiberglass mesh after
spraying with "Kils", then tape and smooth. The texture is and different
subject. I would hire it done, I am really crappy at finish work with that
stuff.


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themeanies
 
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SQLit wrote:



Your going to be in for some work here. I would use fiberglass mesh after
spraying with "Kils", then tape and smooth. The texture is and different
subject. I would hire it done, I am really crappy at finish work with that
stuff.



Thanks for your reply. I'm starting to think this is definitly a job
for hire.

What is "Kils"?


tM
  #4   Report Post  
Robert Allison
 
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themeanies wrote:

SQLit wrote:



Your going to be in for some work here. I would use fiberglass mesh after
spraying with "Kils", then tape and smooth. The texture is and different
subject. I would hire it done, I am really crappy at finish work with that
stuff.



Thanks for your reply. I'm starting to think this is definitly a job
for hire.

What is "Kils"?

tM


He meant "Kilz". It is a stainblocking paint, so that the
waterstains do not bleed through.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
  #5   Report Post  
Joe Bobst
 
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He meant "Kilz". It is a stainblocking paint, so that the
waterstains do not bleed through.

Adhesion of joint compound to Kilz may not be as good as to raw gypsum. May be
better to put Kilz on as top coat before paint? Just speculating...

Joe



  #6   Report Post  
Robert Allison
 
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Joe Bobst wrote:

He meant "Kilz". It is a stainblocking paint, so that the
waterstains do not bleed through.

Adhesion of joint compound to Kilz may not be as good as to raw gypsum. May be
better to put Kilz on as top coat before paint? Just speculating...

Joe


I have never had that problem, but if he is going to blow acoustic
over everything, then there probably won't be any paint.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
  #7   Report Post  
Joe Fabeitz
 
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From experience - the biggest challenge here is matching the popcorn surface
after effecting the seam repair. I gave up and removed the popcorn on my
project. Good luck.

"themeanies" wrote in message
...
This damage is the result of a **** poor job of re-roofing a house. The
roof has been repaired and we have verified there is no more leakage.
Now to repair the damage. The damage is at a horizontal drywall joint.
I have verified from the attic that there is no mold/mildew/etc. Just
discolored drywall. We live in a very dry climate, thank goodness.

Do you all have any suggestions for repairing this area? It's about 16"
of exposed joint. I have removed all of the loosened texture and joint
compound.

Should I try to patch with drywall compound and tape, or is there an
easier(and as effective) method?

Thanks for any help.

Pictures:
http://www.tekn0lust.com/images/IMG01.JPG
http://www.tekn0lust.com/images/IMG02.JPG
http://www.tekn0lust.com/images/IMG03.JPG

Thanks,
tM



  #8   Report Post  
themeanies
 
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Joe Fabeitz wrote:
From experience - the biggest challenge here is matching the popcorn surface
after effecting the seam repair. I gave up and removed the popcorn on my
project. Good luck.

"themeanies" wrote in message
...


That is exactly what everyone is telling me. I can see how tough it
would be to match.

tM
  #9   Report Post  
Chet Hayes
 
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Robert Allison wrote in message ...
Joe Bobst wrote:

He meant "Kilz". It is a stainblocking paint, so that the
waterstains do not bleed through.

Adhesion of joint compound to Kilz may not be as good as to raw gypsum. May be
better to put Kilz on as top coat before paint? Just speculating...

Joe


I have never had that problem, but if he is going to blow acoustic
over everything, then there probably won't be any paint.


This is a simple job that a person with basic home repair skills
should be able to handle, without needing a pro. I'm sure a web
search will turn up lots of info on the steps to do it right.

Basicly, you need to remove any loose tape, debris, etc. Apply joint
compound and tape over the joint, i like the mesh type tape the best.
Smooth it out as best you can, it doesn't need to be perfect. After
it's dry, you put on a second coat of joint compount that is thinner
and wider, using a wider blade. A third coat may be necessary too.
The idea is to use a wider blade each time and taper it out so that
the compound is thinner at the edges, thick enough in the middle so it
covers the tape. The final blade should be about 9 inchs or so. Then
sand.

If there are stains beyond the area you coated, then use a stain
killer to prime the area.
  #10   Report Post  
jhill
 
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Default

If you looked at his pictures you would see that the surrounding area has
popcorn texture. Your suggestions will work well on a flat area, not with
popcorn around it!
"Chet Hayes" wrote in message
...
Robert Allison wrote in message

...
Joe Bobst wrote:

He meant "Kilz". It is a stainblocking paint, so that the
waterstains do not bleed through.

Adhesion of joint compound to Kilz may not be as good as to raw

gypsum. May be
better to put Kilz on as top coat before paint? Just speculating...

Joe


I have never had that problem, but if he is going to blow acoustic
over everything, then there probably won't be any paint.


This is a simple job that a person with basic home repair skills
should be able to handle, without needing a pro. I'm sure a web
search will turn up lots of info on the steps to do it right.

Basicly, you need to remove any loose tape, debris, etc. Apply joint
compound and tape over the joint, i like the mesh type tape the best.
Smooth it out as best you can, it doesn't need to be perfect. After
it's dry, you put on a second coat of joint compount that is thinner
and wider, using a wider blade. A third coat may be necessary too.
The idea is to use a wider blade each time and taper it out so that
the compound is thinner at the edges, thick enough in the middle so it
covers the tape. The final blade should be about 9 inchs or so. Then
sand.

If there are stains beyond the area you coated, then use a stain
killer to prime the area.



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