Nail gun advice.
 

I'm thinking of buying a nailer. My wife would like molding where
there is none, and new molding where there is old. That adds up to a
fair amount of molding. After that I see only sporadic use. I'm a
homeowner with modest but useful skills, but I have no experience at
all with nailers.

Questions:

First, and most important, my house has plaster walls. The interior
walls are what I believe is called "plasterboard", which appears to be
essentially sheetrock with 1" holes in it. Plaster is applied over
that , sticking through the holes for extra strength. The exterior
walls are masonry (brick or cinder block) with plaster applied onto
the inside surfaces.

So can I expect to nail into those surfaces? I suppose if I have to I
can choose a molding shape that I can nail into the ceilings rather
than the walls.

What about nail gauges? What is appropriate for my use? And lengths?

For the relatively light use that I have described would a fuel cell
powered gun be a good choice? I like the idea of avoiding a tether,
but I wonder if there aren't some limitations that might even affect
me.

What else am I forgetting?

Greg Guarino

"Greg G" wrote in message
...
I'm thinking of buying a nailer. My wife would like molding where
there is none, and new molding where there is old. That adds up to a
fair amount of molding. After that I see only sporadic use. I'm a
homeowner with modest but useful skills, but I have no experience at
all with nailers.

A finish nail gun would do well. They are usually 15 or 16 gauge. You can
buy a kit with compressor at Home Depot etc. that has everything you need.
Both Bostitcha nd Porter Cable have them. The Harbor Freight guns are
supposed to be pretty good and are less than $30.

Questions:


So can I expect to nail into those surfaces? I suppose if I have to I
can choose a molding shape that I can nail into the ceilings rather
than the walls.

You want to catch the studs. Naild don't hodl ell in plaster or drywall.

What about nail gauges? What is appropriate for my use? And lengths?

2" should do for most everything.



For the relatively light use that I have described would a fuel cell
powered gun be a good choice? I like the idea of avoiding a tether,
but I wonder if there aren't some limitations that might even affect
me.

Yes, from what I've seen but I've n ot u sed one. They look heavier and
bulkier though.



What else am I forgetting?

Miter saw!

On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 03:27:29 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:



What else am I forgetting?

Miter saw!

That I've got. I can't imagine how the Pilgrims got along without
them.

Greg Guarino

rent the setup you need from Home Depot.

I have a Porter Cable BN200 (18 gage 2"max) Brad nailer and a Accuset (16 gage
2 1/2"max) Brad nailer.

Both get only occasional use; PC was a gift & I bought the Accuset used for
$60.

Base molding; shot into sill & studs (use stud finder if you must) you'll be
able to tell the "misses"

Crown; shoot into studs & joists

18 gage makes much small "holes" in molding. 16 gage holds better but the
holes are bigger. 15 gage probably more than needed.

prime & prepaint molding; install fill with no-shrink spackle, touch up; done

YMMV

I use my PC 18 gauge brad nailer all the time, and the small nail holes
give a better finished product than manual finishing nails. It is great for
casings, baseboards, window frame, etc.

Dave

"Greg G" wrote in message
...
I'm thinking of buying a nailer. My wife would like molding where
there is none, and new molding where there is old. That adds up to a
fair amount of molding. After that I see only sporadic use. I'm a
homeowner with modest but useful skills, but I have no experience at
all with nailers.

Questions:

First, and most important, my house has plaster walls. The interior
walls are what I believe is called "plasterboard", which appears to be
essentially sheetrock with 1" holes in it. Plaster is applied over
that , sticking through the holes for extra strength. The exterior
walls are masonry (brick or cinder block) with plaster applied onto
the inside surfaces.

So can I expect to nail into those surfaces? I suppose if I have to I
can choose a molding shape that I can nail into the ceilings rather
than the walls.

What about nail gauges? What is appropriate for my use? And lengths?

For the relatively light use that I have described would a fuel cell
powered gun be a good choice? I like the idea of avoiding a tether,
but I wonder if there aren't some limitations that might even affect
me.

What else am I forgetting?

Greg Guarino

Greg,

Air nailers have no feel so you cannot tell if you have encountered an
obstruction or missed a stud.

If you have a two story house be careful near studs that have outlets or
switches. Wiring can travel the edge of the stud. The same applies to water
pipes and hot water heating if they travel to an upper floor.

Don't put your hand near the nailer head when applying a shot. The wire
nails can turn 180 degrees (go U shape) if they encounter an obstruction
(nail head, knot, or steel bracket).

Mike


"Greg G" wrote in message
...
I'm thinking of buying a nailer. My wife would like molding where
there is none, and new molding where there is old. That adds up to a
fair amount of molding. After that I see only sporadic use. I'm a
homeowner with modest but useful skills, but I have no experience at
all with nailers.

Questions:

First, and most important, my house has plaster walls. The interior
walls are what I believe is called "plasterboard", which appears to be
essentially sheetrock with 1" holes in it. Plaster is applied over
that , sticking through the holes for extra strength. The exterior
walls are masonry (brick or cinder block) with plaster applied onto
the inside surfaces.

So can I expect to nail into those surfaces? I suppose if I have to I
can choose a molding shape that I can nail into the ceilings rather
than the walls.

What about nail gauges? What is appropriate for my use? And lengths?

For the relatively light use that I have described would a fuel cell
powered gun be a good choice? I like the idea of avoiding a tether,
but I wonder if there aren't some limitations that might even affect
me.

What else am I forgetting?

Greg Guarino

I'm thinking of buying a nailer. My wife would like molding where there is
none, and new molding where there is old. That adds up to a fair amount of
molding. After that I see only sporadic use.

So go with construction adhesive. Use an occasional finihing nail where
necessary until it sets up, or tape in place. The current new adhesives are a
remarkable lot and your total investment is less than five bucks. HTH

Joe

"Joe Bobst" wrote in message

So go with construction adhesive. Use an occasional finihing nail where
necessary until it sets up, or tape in place. The current new adhesives
are a
remarkable lot and your total investment is less than five bucks. HTH

But does it come off?

I just removed a lot of baseboard (new flooring going down) and was able to
re-finish and replace it exactly. If adhesive pulled things apart I may
have had a lot more work. I may never take the baseboard off again, but you
just never know.

A finish nail gun would do well. They are usually 15 or 16 gauge. You can
buy a kit with compressor at Home Depot etc. that has everything you need.
Both Bostitcha nd Porter Cable have them. The Harbor Freight guns are
supposed to be pretty good and are less than $30.

I ordered a harbor freight one about 5 years ago and sent it back. While it
worked OK, and was really cheap, there was no safety on it at all. Just
touch the trigger and you shot a brad. (I know, I know....hit what you aim
at and all that, but still...)

On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 19:24:01 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Joe Bobst" wrote in message

So go with construction adhesive. Use an occasional finihing nail where
necessary until it sets up, or tape in place. The current new adhesives
are a
remarkable lot and your total investment is less than five bucks. HTH

But does it come off?

Sure. Its just a matter of how difficult is it gonna be.

I just removed a lot of baseboard (new flooring going down) and was able to
re-finish and replace it exactly. If adhesive pulled things apart I may
have had a lot more work. I may never take the baseboard off again, but you
just never know.

I think its rare to take off baseboard and not damage either the wall
or the board. Most times, the boards are so brittle over the years
that they easily snap.

I always brad nail my trim...but gluing may indeed be a good
idea...especially when compared to the initial cost of nailing
equipment.

For the OP...

Just use a hammer and some colored finishing nails.


Have a nice one...

Trent

Budweiser: Helping ugly people have sex since 1876!

On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 01:39:56 GMT, "mark" wrote:


A finish nail gun would do well. They are usually 15 or 16 gauge. You can
buy a kit with compressor at Home Depot etc. that has everything you need.
Both Bostitcha nd Porter Cable have them. The Harbor Freight guns are
supposed to be pretty good and are less than $30.

I ordered a harbor freight one about 5 years ago and sent it back. While it
worked OK, and was really cheap, there was no safety on it at all. Just
touch the trigger and you shot a brad. (I know, I know....hit what you aim
at and all that, but still...)


Are you sure you didn't simply have the safety disabled?


Have a nice one...

Trent

Budweiser: Helping ugly people have sex since 1876!

Are you sure you didn't simply have the safety disabled?


Have a nice one...

Trent


Oh yes. There was nothing.