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Lee Hurd
 
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Default Flexy tub leaks at drainpipe, noisy radiator vents

My deadbeat upstairs neighbor has a plastic or fiberglass tub which flexes
so that when the user steps on or near the drain, it stresses the joint at
the main drainpipe causing a leak. The neighbor obviously doesn't want to
remove the tub, and the pipe is accessible through the new hole in my
bathroom cieling caused by the leaking, it's only a sheetrock panel in a
large floor to cieling closet. My thought was to chop out a section of the
copper drainpipe and replace it with hose or something. Is there any other
way to get a cheap fix? I don't think there's enough workroom to brace the
pipe without removing the tub.

Also, I replaced some vents on my steam radiators, unfortunately the brand I
got makes a pinging sound as it operates loud enough to wake me up when the
heat comes on at night. A total shot in the dark, but can anybody mention a
brand that is quieter?

Thanks for any advice,

Lee


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Speedy Jim
 
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Default

Lee Hurd wrote:

My deadbeat upstairs neighbor has a plastic or fiberglass tub which flexes
so that when the user steps on or near the drain, it stresses the joint at
the main drainpipe causing a leak. The neighbor obviously doesn't want to
remove the tub, and the pipe is accessible through the new hole in my
bathroom cieling caused by the leaking, it's only a sheetrock panel in a
large floor to cieling closet. My thought was to chop out a section of the
copper drainpipe and replace it with hose or something. Is there any other
way to get a cheap fix? I don't think there's enough workroom to brace the
pipe without removing the tub.

Also, I replaced some vents on my steam radiators, unfortunately the brand I
got makes a pinging sound as it operates loud enough to wake me up when the
heat comes on at night. A total shot in the dark, but can anybody mention a
brand that is quieter?

Thanks for any advice,

Lee


Yes, rubber "Mission" coupling would be perfect.
This is the style with 2 hose clamps, rather than a single
large stainless band. You might find them at HD, else a
plumbing supply house. Caliper the OD of the pipe first.
You may have to caulk the drain fitting where it meets the tub,
if that's what is leaking.

Jim
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David Efflandt
 
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Default

On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 02:44:04 GMT, Lee Hurd wrote:
Also, I replaced some vents on my steam radiators, unfortunately the brand I
got makes a pinging sound as it operates loud enough to wake me up when the
heat comes on at night. A total shot in the dark, but can anybody mention a
brand that is quieter?


What brand/model did you get?

Part of having a quiet efficient system is making sure that the steam
pressure is set low enough. With the typical Pressuretrol, this means
setting it as low as it can go, to cut-in at 0.5 psi, and cut-out at 1.5
psi. Many vents are rated for a working pressure of 1.5 psi and/or could
be noisier if pressure is higher.

An excellent source of info about steam (and hydronic) heat is "The Wall"
forum at http://www.heatinghelp.com/ and other sources there, like Hot
Tech Topics. Or if you really want to learn how your system works they
have numerous books like "We Got Steam Heat"
http://www.heatinghelp.com/shopcart/...category=2-109
or "The Lost Art of Steam Heating"
http://www.heatinghelp.com/shopcart/...m?category=2-3
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m Ransley
 
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Default

Steam venting is not something you just experiment with. Do you own the
building, rent? Different valves vent differently and changing one to a
different brand can affect your apt and others. Dole and Gordon are good
brands . Dole has an adjustable model. For even bldg heat vents must
be balanced, a tedious process of monitoring and replacing and testing.

  #5   Report Post  
Lee Hurd
 
Posts: n/a
Default

The pressure gauge reads 1 psi at the moment while the furnace is idling.
From what you describe, it sounds as if the pressure has been too high, so I
will see if it goes higher when it's working if that's the right thing to
do. The owner's association of the building I rent in just decided to try
turning down the heat this winter to save money on oil, so it seems quieter
since yesterday. The big problem is that owners are responsible for storm
windows and maintaining their radiators, so some don't have storm windows,
and many probably have old clogged vents. The property manager put a lock on
the heating controlls in the basement so individual residents call the
office to get the heat adjusted to their liking, so it's a real mess, and
noone's on the same page.

Thanks,

Lee



"David Efflandt" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 02:44:04 GMT, Lee Hurd wrote:
Also, I replaced some vents on my steam radiators, unfortunately the

brand I
got makes a pinging sound as it operates loud enough to wake me up when

the
heat comes on at night. A total shot in the dark, but can anybody

mention a
brand that is quieter?


What brand/model did you get?

Part of having a quiet efficient system is making sure that the steam
pressure is set low enough. With the typical Pressuretrol, this means
setting it as low as it can go, to cut-in at 0.5 psi, and cut-out at 1.5
psi. Many vents are rated for a working pressure of 1.5 psi and/or could
be noisier if pressure is higher.

An excellent source of info about steam (and hydronic) heat is "The Wall"
forum at http://www.heatinghelp.com/ and other sources there, like Hot
Tech Topics. Or if you really want to learn how your system works they
have numerous books like "We Got Steam Heat"
http://www.heatinghelp.com/shopcart/...category=2-109
or "The Lost Art of Steam Heating"
http://www.heatinghelp.com/shopcart/...m?category=2-3





  #6   Report Post  
Lee Hurd
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks, that should calm things down as the owner above is only being a
donkey because they have no money to spare.

Lee
"Speedy Jim" wrote in message ...
Lee Hurd wrote:

My deadbeat upstairs neighbor has a plastic or fiberglass tub which

flexes
so that when the user steps on or near the drain, it stresses the joint

at
the main drainpipe causing a leak. The neighbor obviously doesn't want

to
remove the tub, and the pipe is accessible through the new hole in my
bathroom cieling caused by the leaking, it's only a sheetrock panel in a
large floor to cieling closet. My thought was to chop out a section of

the
copper drainpipe and replace it with hose or something. Is there any

other
way to get a cheap fix? I don't think there's enough workroom to brace

the
pipe without removing the tub.

Also, I replaced some vents on my steam radiators, unfortunately the

brand I
got makes a pinging sound as it operates loud enough to wake me up when

the
heat comes on at night. A total shot in the dark, but can anybody

mention a
brand that is quieter?

Thanks for any advice,

Lee


Yes, rubber "Mission" coupling would be perfect.
This is the style with 2 hose clamps, rather than a single
large stainless band. You might find them at HD, else a
plumbing supply house. Caliper the OD of the pipe first.
You may have to caulk the drain fitting where it meets the tub,
if that's what is leaking.

Jim



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