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  #1   Report Post  
Big Arn
 
Posts: n/a
Default Brick Front, Weepholes and Bay Windows

Hello,

We have had a problem in our 3 year old home for some time. Our home
has a brick front, with two bay windows, each covered with an extruded
metal roof. During windy, driving rain, the roofs would leak,
eventually causing water to enter the residence.

The metal bay window roofs are attached to the house with roofing
cement. There was not line cut into the mortar, and the roofs /
flashing were not tucked into this line.

We cut drywall inside the house, allowing us to see the inside of the
bay roofs. We can now water test and see where the water enters.

The brick wall just above the left bay window has weepholes installed
directly above the bay roofline. The brick wall above the right bay
window had no weepholes installed (although the flashing was there).
We notified the builder, who had the mason come and insert weepholes.
These weepholes were placed a full course above the bay roofline (as
that's where the flashing was).

The roofer has tried putting new roofing cement on, etc., but when it
rains "just right" or when I water test it with a hose, we still have
some water coming in.

He said that he could cut a line in the mortar above the right bay
window, and tuck the flashing / roof into it, then put roofing cement
on. But, he can't do this over the left, because the flashing /
weepholes are right above the roofline.

So, my first question is should the weepholes / flashing be directly
above the bay window roof? Or, should they be one (or more) courses
up?

Any suggestions for dealing with this problem?

Thank you very much.
  #2   Report Post  
Art
 
Posts: n/a
Default

The mason who bricked up your house was probably incompetent and you are
just seeing one of many things wrong. Don't know where you live but if in
NC, most houses are poorly bricked up. Ties need to be attached to studs,
flashing needs to be above each window with weep holes and flashing and
weepholes need to be install at the top of the foundation wall. See the
technical notes at www.bia.org and see how brick is supposed to be done.
When putting the weephole, if flashing was there, it was probably damaged
when drilling the hole so it is now useless. One brick course will probably
not absorbed enuf water to be an issue. I doubt the flashing there, if it
is there, is any good.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
...
Hello,

We have had a problem in our 3 year old home for some time. Our home
has a brick front, with two bay windows, each covered with an extruded
metal roof. During windy, driving rain, the roofs would leak,
eventually causing water to enter the residence.

The metal bay window roofs are attached to the house with roofing
cement. There was not line cut into the mortar, and the roofs /
flashing were not tucked into this line.

We cut drywall inside the house, allowing us to see the inside of the
bay roofs. We can now water test and see where the water enters.

The brick wall just above the left bay window has weepholes installed
directly above the bay roofline. The brick wall above the right bay
window had no weepholes installed (although the flashing was there).
We notified the builder, who had the mason come and insert weepholes.
These weepholes were placed a full course above the bay roofline (as
that's where the flashing was).

The roofer has tried putting new roofing cement on, etc., but when it
rains "just right" or when I water test it with a hose, we still have
some water coming in.

He said that he could cut a line in the mortar above the right bay
window, and tuck the flashing / roof into it, then put roofing cement
on. But, he can't do this over the left, because the flashing /
weepholes are right above the roofline.

So, my first question is should the weepholes / flashing be directly
above the bay window roof? Or, should they be one (or more) courses
up?

Any suggestions for dealing with this problem?

Thank you very much.



  #3   Report Post  
Art
 
Posts: n/a
Default

By the way, at 3 years you are probably running into the statute of
limitations if you are considering taking action against the builder.
Depends on which state you are in.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
...
Hello,

We have had a problem in our 3 year old home for some time. Our home
has a brick front, with two bay windows, each covered with an extruded
metal roof. During windy, driving rain, the roofs would leak,
eventually causing water to enter the residence.

The metal bay window roofs are attached to the house with roofing
cement. There was not line cut into the mortar, and the roofs /
flashing were not tucked into this line.

We cut drywall inside the house, allowing us to see the inside of the
bay roofs. We can now water test and see where the water enters.

The brick wall just above the left bay window has weepholes installed
directly above the bay roofline. The brick wall above the right bay
window had no weepholes installed (although the flashing was there).
We notified the builder, who had the mason come and insert weepholes.
These weepholes were placed a full course above the bay roofline (as
that's where the flashing was).

The roofer has tried putting new roofing cement on, etc., but when it
rains "just right" or when I water test it with a hose, we still have
some water coming in.

He said that he could cut a line in the mortar above the right bay
window, and tuck the flashing / roof into it, then put roofing cement
on. But, he can't do this over the left, because the flashing /
weepholes are right above the roofline.

So, my first question is should the weepholes / flashing be directly
above the bay window roof? Or, should they be one (or more) courses
up?

Any suggestions for dealing with this problem?

Thank you very much.



  #4   Report Post  
Big Arn
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks for your reply. The builder has been trying to fix the problem
for a while (utilizing the roofing subcontractor), but I will go to
bia.org and read up.

But, these bay windows are on the lower level, and both sides have two
bedroom windows above them. So, the weepholes above the bays are a
few courses below the bedroom window sills.

We're in Maryland, by the way.


On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 20:10:05 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

The mason who bricked up your house was probably incompetent and you are
just seeing one of many things wrong. Don't know where you live but if in
NC, most houses are poorly bricked up. Ties need to be attached to studs,
flashing needs to be above each window with weep holes and flashing and
weepholes need to be install at the top of the foundation wall. See the
technical notes at www.bia.org and see how brick is supposed to be done.
When putting the weephole, if flashing was there, it was probably damaged
when drilling the hole so it is now useless. One brick course will probably
not absorbed enuf water to be an issue. I doubt the flashing there, if it
is there, is any good.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

We have had a problem in our 3 year old home for some time. Our home
has a brick front, with two bay windows, each covered with an extruded
metal roof. During windy, driving rain, the roofs would leak,
eventually causing water to enter the residence.

The metal bay window roofs are attached to the house with roofing
cement. There was not line cut into the mortar, and the roofs /
flashing were not tucked into this line.

We cut drywall inside the house, allowing us to see the inside of the
bay roofs. We can now water test and see where the water enters.

The brick wall just above the left bay window has weepholes installed
directly above the bay roofline. The brick wall above the right bay
window had no weepholes installed (although the flashing was there).
We notified the builder, who had the mason come and insert weepholes.
These weepholes were placed a full course above the bay roofline (as
that's where the flashing was).

The roofer has tried putting new roofing cement on, etc., but when it
rains "just right" or when I water test it with a hose, we still have
some water coming in.

He said that he could cut a line in the mortar above the right bay
window, and tuck the flashing / roof into it, then put roofing cement
on. But, he can't do this over the left, because the flashing /
weepholes are right above the roofline.

So, my first question is should the weepholes / flashing be directly
above the bay window roof? Or, should they be one (or more) courses
up?

Any suggestions for dealing with this problem?

Thank you very much.



  #5   Report Post  
Dan
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 20:11:15 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

By the way, at 3 years you are probably running into the statute of
limitations if you are considering taking action against the builder.
Depends on which state you are in.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

We have had a problem in our 3 year old home for some time. Our home
has a brick front, with two bay windows, each covered with an extruded
metal roof. During windy, driving rain, the roofs would leak,
eventually causing water to enter the residence.

The metal bay window roofs are attached to the house with roofing
cement. There was not line cut into the mortar, and the roofs /
flashing were not tucked into this line.

We cut drywall inside the house, allowing us to see the inside of the
bay roofs. We can now water test and see where the water enters.

The brick wall just above the left bay window has weepholes installed
directly above the bay roofline. The brick wall above the right bay
window had no weepholes installed (although the flashing was there).
We notified the builder, who had the mason come and insert weepholes.
These weepholes were placed a full course above the bay roofline (as
that's where the flashing was).

The roofer has tried putting new roofing cement on, etc., but when it
rains "just right" or when I water test it with a hose, we still have
some water coming in.

He said that he could cut a line in the mortar above the right bay
window, and tuck the flashing / roof into it, then put roofing cement
on. But, he can't do this over the left, because the flashing /
weepholes are right above the roofline.

So, my first question is should the weepholes / flashing be directly
above the bay window roof? Or, should they be one (or more) courses
up?

Any suggestions for dealing with this problem?

Thank you very much.



Anyone sealing anything against brick with roofing cement is, by any
standard, an idiot or a crook. Brick is by no means water proof, it
needs to be properly flashed and weep holes installed. If this isn't
done no remedial treatment is going to be really effective.


  #6   Report Post  
Art
 
Posts: n/a
Default

NC code now requires flashing and weepholes below window sills. The sills
are your problem. They are sucking up water and dumping it in the wall
above your bay.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
...
Thanks for your reply. The builder has been trying to fix the problem
for a while (utilizing the roofing subcontractor), but I will go to
bia.org and read up.

But, these bay windows are on the lower level, and both sides have two
bedroom windows above them. So, the weepholes above the bays are a
few courses below the bedroom window sills.

We're in Maryland, by the way.


On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 20:10:05 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

The mason who bricked up your house was probably incompetent and you are
just seeing one of many things wrong. Don't know where you live but if

in
NC, most houses are poorly bricked up. Ties need to be attached to

studs,
flashing needs to be above each window with weep holes and flashing and
weepholes need to be install at the top of the foundation wall. See the
technical notes at www.bia.org and see how brick is supposed to be done.
When putting the weephole, if flashing was there, it was probably damaged
when drilling the hole so it is now useless. One brick course will

probably
not absorbed enuf water to be an issue. I doubt the flashing there, if

it
is there, is any good.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

We have had a problem in our 3 year old home for some time. Our home
has a brick front, with two bay windows, each covered with an extruded
metal roof. During windy, driving rain, the roofs would leak,
eventually causing water to enter the residence.

The metal bay window roofs are attached to the house with roofing
cement. There was not line cut into the mortar, and the roofs /
flashing were not tucked into this line.

We cut drywall inside the house, allowing us to see the inside of the
bay roofs. We can now water test and see where the water enters.

The brick wall just above the left bay window has weepholes installed
directly above the bay roofline. The brick wall above the right bay
window had no weepholes installed (although the flashing was there).
We notified the builder, who had the mason come and insert weepholes.
These weepholes were placed a full course above the bay roofline (as
that's where the flashing was).

The roofer has tried putting new roofing cement on, etc., but when it
rains "just right" or when I water test it with a hose, we still have
some water coming in.

He said that he could cut a line in the mortar above the right bay
window, and tuck the flashing / roof into it, then put roofing cement
on. But, he can't do this over the left, because the flashing /
weepholes are right above the roofline.

So, my first question is should the weepholes / flashing be directly
above the bay window roof? Or, should they be one (or more) courses
up?

Any suggestions for dealing with this problem?

Thank you very much.





  #7   Report Post  
Art
 
Posts: n/a
Default

It is really shameful that the brick industry doesn't do something about the
poor quality masons out there. I for one will never get another brick
house.


"Dan" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 20:11:15 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

By the way, at 3 years you are probably running into the statute of
limitations if you are considering taking action against the builder.
Depends on which state you are in.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

We have had a problem in our 3 year old home for some time. Our home
has a brick front, with two bay windows, each covered with an extruded
metal roof. During windy, driving rain, the roofs would leak,
eventually causing water to enter the residence.

The metal bay window roofs are attached to the house with roofing
cement. There was not line cut into the mortar, and the roofs /
flashing were not tucked into this line.

We cut drywall inside the house, allowing us to see the inside of the
bay roofs. We can now water test and see where the water enters.

The brick wall just above the left bay window has weepholes installed
directly above the bay roofline. The brick wall above the right bay
window had no weepholes installed (although the flashing was there).
We notified the builder, who had the mason come and insert weepholes.
These weepholes were placed a full course above the bay roofline (as
that's where the flashing was).

The roofer has tried putting new roofing cement on, etc., but when it
rains "just right" or when I water test it with a hose, we still have
some water coming in.

He said that he could cut a line in the mortar above the right bay
window, and tuck the flashing / roof into it, then put roofing cement
on. But, he can't do this over the left, because the flashing /
weepholes are right above the roofline.

So, my first question is should the weepholes / flashing be directly
above the bay window roof? Or, should they be one (or more) courses
up?

Any suggestions for dealing with this problem?

Thank you very much.



Anyone sealing anything against brick with roofing cement is, by any
standard, an idiot or a crook. Brick is by no means water proof, it
needs to be properly flashed and weep holes installed. If this isn't
done no remedial treatment is going to be really effective.



  #8   Report Post  
Big Arn
 
Posts: n/a
Default

It's funny,

But after buying this house, and learning way more than I ever wanted
to about the various aspects of it (the brickwork, the tile flooring
(another story entirely)), I notice too the scope of the problem.

In fact, when speaking with the various masons, roofers, etc. who look
at the problem, most, at first blush, want to seal the weepholes.
Most have no idea at all the of "science" behind any of it.

Regarding the roof / flashing of the bays being attached to the brick
front by roofing cement, in speaking with the roofer, none of the
builders in this area do it the proper way (by cutting into the
morter, etc). All simply attach to the brick front with roofing
cement. Our windows actually have step flashing on the angled part of
the bay, above the actual angled part of the bay roof. Most houses I
look at don't even have them.

In fact, many houses don't seem to have weepholes at all.

I'm starting to feel the same way as you do about brick houses --
especially any type of roof coming into that brick.

On Sun, 10 Oct 2004 02:55:51 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

It is really shameful that the brick industry doesn't do something about the
poor quality masons out there. I for one will never get another brick
house.


"Dan" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 20:11:15 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

By the way, at 3 years you are probably running into the statute of
limitations if you are considering taking action against the builder.
Depends on which state you are in.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

We have had a problem in our 3 year old home for some time. Our home
has a brick front, with two bay windows, each covered with an extruded
metal roof. During windy, driving rain, the roofs would leak,
eventually causing water to enter the residence.

The metal bay window roofs are attached to the house with roofing
cement. There was not line cut into the mortar, and the roofs /
flashing were not tucked into this line.

We cut drywall inside the house, allowing us to see the inside of the
bay roofs. We can now water test and see where the water enters.

The brick wall just above the left bay window has weepholes installed
directly above the bay roofline. The brick wall above the right bay
window had no weepholes installed (although the flashing was there).
We notified the builder, who had the mason come and insert weepholes.
These weepholes were placed a full course above the bay roofline (as
that's where the flashing was).

The roofer has tried putting new roofing cement on, etc., but when it
rains "just right" or when I water test it with a hose, we still have
some water coming in.

He said that he could cut a line in the mortar above the right bay
window, and tuck the flashing / roof into it, then put roofing cement
on. But, he can't do this over the left, because the flashing /
weepholes are right above the roofline.

So, my first question is should the weepholes / flashing be directly
above the bay window roof? Or, should they be one (or more) courses
up?

Any suggestions for dealing with this problem?

Thank you very much.


Anyone sealing anything against brick with roofing cement is, by any
standard, an idiot or a crook. Brick is by no means water proof, it
needs to be properly flashed and weep holes installed. If this isn't
done no remedial treatment is going to be really effective.



  #9   Report Post  
Big Arn
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Our house has the flashing below sills, etc, but weepholes were
forgotten. We have a Palladian also, above the door, where the
weepholes were forgotten. They were added after the fact, being
careful not to drill into the flashing, though .......

The sills are playing into this, though, as the roofer noticed that on
two of them the brick was not sloping away from the window. As a
temporary measure, silicone caulk was applied to any cracks, to see if
that stops water from entering. But, I can still spray water on the
joint where the bay roof hits the brick, bypassing the sills entirely,
and have some water enter.

So the brick / roofline is still part of the problem. I just wish the
weepholes were higher over the left bay window, so the roof and
flashing could be attached to the brick properly. I am trying to find
the "official" stance from bia.org about where the holes should be.


On Sun, 10 Oct 2004 02:54:15 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

NC code now requires flashing and weepholes below window sills. The sills
are your problem. They are sucking up water and dumping it in the wall
above your bay.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
.. .
Thanks for your reply. The builder has been trying to fix the problem
for a while (utilizing the roofing subcontractor), but I will go to
bia.org and read up.

But, these bay windows are on the lower level, and both sides have two
bedroom windows above them. So, the weepholes above the bays are a
few courses below the bedroom window sills.

We're in Maryland, by the way.


On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 20:10:05 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

The mason who bricked up your house was probably incompetent and you are
just seeing one of many things wrong. Don't know where you live but if

in
NC, most houses are poorly bricked up. Ties need to be attached to

studs,
flashing needs to be above each window with weep holes and flashing and
weepholes need to be install at the top of the foundation wall. See the
technical notes at www.bia.org and see how brick is supposed to be done.
When putting the weephole, if flashing was there, it was probably damaged
when drilling the hole so it is now useless. One brick course will

probably
not absorbed enuf water to be an issue. I doubt the flashing there, if

it
is there, is any good.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

We have had a problem in our 3 year old home for some time. Our home
has a brick front, with two bay windows, each covered with an extruded
metal roof. During windy, driving rain, the roofs would leak,
eventually causing water to enter the residence.

The metal bay window roofs are attached to the house with roofing
cement. There was not line cut into the mortar, and the roofs /
flashing were not tucked into this line.

We cut drywall inside the house, allowing us to see the inside of the
bay roofs. We can now water test and see where the water enters.

The brick wall just above the left bay window has weepholes installed
directly above the bay roofline. The brick wall above the right bay
window had no weepholes installed (although the flashing was there).
We notified the builder, who had the mason come and insert weepholes.
These weepholes were placed a full course above the bay roofline (as
that's where the flashing was).

The roofer has tried putting new roofing cement on, etc., but when it
rains "just right" or when I water test it with a hose, we still have
some water coming in.

He said that he could cut a line in the mortar above the right bay
window, and tuck the flashing / roof into it, then put roofing cement
on. But, he can't do this over the left, because the flashing /
weepholes are right above the roofline.

So, my first question is should the weepholes / flashing be directly
above the bay window roof? Or, should they be one (or more) courses
up?

Any suggestions for dealing with this problem?

Thank you very much.




  #10   Report Post  
DanG
 
Posts: n/a
Default

After reading through your problem, it sounds as if several errors
were made.

I think the permanent resolution to the problem will probably
involve removing the brick veneer, at least over the problem
windows. I suspect the roofing on the bays will need to come off
also.

Brick work is not meant to be water proof, or even very water
resistant. A well designed system has methods to deal with
moisture if and when it does get through the veneer. The weep
holes allow air into the cavity to dry out moisture. If they were
properly flashed with Nervastral or copper, water can be directed
out the weep holes. Flashing is a critical science.

The roofing can only function if the water is flashed out onto the
top of the roofing. It sounds as if when you get driving rain, it
can travel on top of the roofing and penetrate the building
envelope. Counter flashing (the stuff installed in the saw cut)
is more professional but does not stop your problem on its own,
there still needs to be something to prevent water on top of the
roof from being able to penetrate the envelope. Plastic roof
cement, though not attractive, can serve this function, at least
until if dries out.

If the water is penetrating the veneer above the bay window head,
it is not being flashed out of the building envelope. Stopping
the water from getting there will help, but not permanently cure.
If it is the sill of the window above, caulk should provide
temporary relief, but not a long term cure. The only permanent
cure that I can envision will involve opening up the window heads
on the outside to properly inspect and install the flashing
correctly.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Big Arn" none wrote in message
...
Hello,

We have had a problem in our 3 year old home for some time. Our
home
has a brick front, with two bay windows, each covered with an
extruded
metal roof. During windy, driving rain, the roofs would leak,
eventually causing water to enter the residence.

The metal bay window roofs are attached to the house with
roofing
cement. There was not line cut into the mortar, and the roofs /
flashing were not tucked into this line.

We cut drywall inside the house, allowing us to see the inside
of the
bay roofs. We can now water test and see where the water
enters.

The brick wall just above the left bay window has weepholes
installed
directly above the bay roofline. The brick wall above the right
bay
window had no weepholes installed (although the flashing was
there).
We notified the builder, who had the mason come and insert
weepholes.
These weepholes were placed a full course above the bay roofline
(as
that's where the flashing was).

The roofer has tried putting new roofing cement on, etc., but
when it
rains "just right" or when I water test it with a hose, we still
have
some water coming in.

He said that he could cut a line in the mortar above the right
bay
window, and tuck the flashing / roof into it, then put roofing
cement
on. But, he can't do this over the left, because the flashing /
weepholes are right above the roofline.

So, my first question is should the weepholes / flashing be
directly
above the bay window roof? Or, should they be one (or more)
courses
up?

Any suggestions for dealing with this problem?

Thank you very much.





  #11   Report Post  
Art
 
Posts: n/a
Default

The window sill pitch or lack thereof shows that the mason was incompetent.
I doubt the flashing was installed properly and I guarantee the ties are not
worth a darn. Get another mason out there to look at it. Look in the
yellow pages for a mason who specializes in repairs. Ask him about cutting
out all the brick that is sloped wrong, retrofit ties made by Durawal and
any other things he sees as problems. Get an estimate for the fixes and
give the bill to the builder. Sue him in small claims if he won't pain.
The current mason is not worth a darn. You are just wasting your time with
him. If you know the brick used, color of sand used and the mortar used a
good mason can cut out brick and replace and you will never know.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
...
Our house has the flashing below sills, etc, but weepholes were
forgotten. We have a Palladian also, above the door, where the
weepholes were forgotten. They were added after the fact, being
careful not to drill into the flashing, though .......

The sills are playing into this, though, as the roofer noticed that on
two of them the brick was not sloping away from the window. As a
temporary measure, silicone caulk was applied to any cracks, to see if
that stops water from entering. But, I can still spray water on the
joint where the bay roof hits the brick, bypassing the sills entirely,
and have some water enter.

So the brick / roofline is still part of the problem. I just wish the
weepholes were higher over the left bay window, so the roof and
flashing could be attached to the brick properly. I am trying to find
the "official" stance from bia.org about where the holes should be.


On Sun, 10 Oct 2004 02:54:15 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

NC code now requires flashing and weepholes below window sills. The

sills
are your problem. They are sucking up water and dumping it in the wall
above your bay.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
.. .
Thanks for your reply. The builder has been trying to fix the problem
for a while (utilizing the roofing subcontractor), but I will go to
bia.org and read up.

But, these bay windows are on the lower level, and both sides have two
bedroom windows above them. So, the weepholes above the bays are a
few courses below the bedroom window sills.

We're in Maryland, by the way.


On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 20:10:05 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

The mason who bricked up your house was probably incompetent and you

are
just seeing one of many things wrong. Don't know where you live but

if
in
NC, most houses are poorly bricked up. Ties need to be attached to

studs,
flashing needs to be above each window with weep holes and flashing

and
weepholes need to be install at the top of the foundation wall. See

the
technical notes at www.bia.org and see how brick is supposed to be

done.
When putting the weephole, if flashing was there, it was probably

damaged
when drilling the hole so it is now useless. One brick course will

probably
not absorbed enuf water to be an issue. I doubt the flashing there,

if
it
is there, is any good.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

We have had a problem in our 3 year old home for some time. Our

home
has a brick front, with two bay windows, each covered with an

extruded
metal roof. During windy, driving rain, the roofs would leak,
eventually causing water to enter the residence.

The metal bay window roofs are attached to the house with roofing
cement. There was not line cut into the mortar, and the roofs /
flashing were not tucked into this line.

We cut drywall inside the house, allowing us to see the inside of

the
bay roofs. We can now water test and see where the water enters.

The brick wall just above the left bay window has weepholes

installed
directly above the bay roofline. The brick wall above the right bay
window had no weepholes installed (although the flashing was there).
We notified the builder, who had the mason come and insert

weepholes.
These weepholes were placed a full course above the bay roofline (as
that's where the flashing was).

The roofer has tried putting new roofing cement on, etc., but when

it
rains "just right" or when I water test it with a hose, we still

have
some water coming in.

He said that he could cut a line in the mortar above the right bay
window, and tuck the flashing / roof into it, then put roofing

cement
on. But, he can't do this over the left, because the flashing /
weepholes are right above the roofline.

So, my first question is should the weepholes / flashing be directly
above the bay window roof? Or, should they be one (or more) courses
up?

Any suggestions for dealing with this problem?

Thank you very much.






  #12   Report Post  
Art
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I saw a house with a second story that is smaller than the first story so
some brick sits on the roof. During repairs we discovered they left out
lentils and did not attach the ones there properly to the framing. Stay
away from brick is the bottom line unless you are there to supervise.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
...
It's funny,

But after buying this house, and learning way more than I ever wanted
to about the various aspects of it (the brickwork, the tile flooring
(another story entirely)), I notice too the scope of the problem.

In fact, when speaking with the various masons, roofers, etc. who look
at the problem, most, at first blush, want to seal the weepholes.
Most have no idea at all the of "science" behind any of it.

Regarding the roof / flashing of the bays being attached to the brick
front by roofing cement, in speaking with the roofer, none of the
builders in this area do it the proper way (by cutting into the
morter, etc). All simply attach to the brick front with roofing
cement. Our windows actually have step flashing on the angled part of
the bay, above the actual angled part of the bay roof. Most houses I
look at don't even have them.

In fact, many houses don't seem to have weepholes at all.

I'm starting to feel the same way as you do about brick houses --
especially any type of roof coming into that brick.

On Sun, 10 Oct 2004 02:55:51 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

It is really shameful that the brick industry doesn't do something about

the
poor quality masons out there. I for one will never get another brick
house.


"Dan" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 20:11:15 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

By the way, at 3 years you are probably running into the statute of
limitations if you are considering taking action against the builder.
Depends on which state you are in.


"Big Arn" none wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

We have had a problem in our 3 year old home for some time. Our

home
has a brick front, with two bay windows, each covered with an

extruded
metal roof. During windy, driving rain, the roofs would leak,
eventually causing water to enter the residence.

The metal bay window roofs are attached to the house with roofing
cement. There was not line cut into the mortar, and the roofs /
flashing were not tucked into this line.

We cut drywall inside the house, allowing us to see the inside of

the
bay roofs. We can now water test and see where the water enters.

The brick wall just above the left bay window has weepholes

installed
directly above the bay roofline. The brick wall above the right bay
window had no weepholes installed (although the flashing was there).
We notified the builder, who had the mason come and insert

weepholes.
These weepholes were placed a full course above the bay roofline (as
that's where the flashing was).

The roofer has tried putting new roofing cement on, etc., but when

it
rains "just right" or when I water test it with a hose, we still

have
some water coming in.

He said that he could cut a line in the mortar above the right bay
window, and tuck the flashing / roof into it, then put roofing

cement
on. But, he can't do this over the left, because the flashing /
weepholes are right above the roofline.

So, my first question is should the weepholes / flashing be directly
above the bay window roof? Or, should they be one (or more) courses
up?

Any suggestions for dealing with this problem?

Thank you very much.


Anyone sealing anything against brick with roofing cement is, by any
standard, an idiot or a crook. Brick is by no means water proof, it
needs to be properly flashed and weep holes installed. If this isn't
done no remedial treatment is going to be really effective.





  #13   Report Post  
Art
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I ran into a woman that had a 10k sq foot house which cost almost 2 million
bucks. 4 sides brick. All defectively installed. She was in talks with
the builder and had gotten an estimate to take down all the brick and put up
new brick for $100k. I explained to her if she found a mason able to do it
for $100k it will be just as defective as the current job.


"DanG" wrote in message
news:Braad.11499$Lo6.10359@fed1read03...
After reading through your problem, it sounds as if several errors
were made.

I think the permanent resolution to the problem will probably
involve removing the brick veneer, at least over the problem
windows. I suspect the roofing on the bays will need to come off
also.

Brick work is not meant to be water proof, or even very water
resistant. A well designed system has methods to deal with
moisture if and when it does get through the veneer. The weep
holes allow air into the cavity to dry out moisture. If they were
properly flashed with Nervastral or copper, water can be directed
out the weep holes. Flashing is a critical science.

The roofing can only function if the water is flashed out onto the
top of the roofing. It sounds as if when you get driving rain, it
can travel on top of the roofing and penetrate the building
envelope. Counter flashing (the stuff installed in the saw cut)
is more professional but does not stop your problem on its own,
there still needs to be something to prevent water on top of the
roof from being able to penetrate the envelope. Plastic roof
cement, though not attractive, can serve this function, at least
until if dries out.

If the water is penetrating the veneer above the bay window head,
it is not being flashed out of the building envelope. Stopping
the water from getting there will help, but not permanently cure.
If it is the sill of the window above, caulk should provide
temporary relief, but not a long term cure. The only permanent
cure that I can envision will involve opening up the window heads
on the outside to properly inspect and install the flashing
correctly.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Big Arn" none wrote in message
...
Hello,

We have had a problem in our 3 year old home for some time. Our
home
has a brick front, with two bay windows, each covered with an
extruded
metal roof. During windy, driving rain, the roofs would leak,
eventually causing water to enter the residence.

The metal bay window roofs are attached to the house with
roofing
cement. There was not line cut into the mortar, and the roofs /
flashing were not tucked into this line.

We cut drywall inside the house, allowing us to see the inside
of the
bay roofs. We can now water test and see where the water
enters.

The brick wall just above the left bay window has weepholes
installed
directly above the bay roofline. The brick wall above the right
bay
window had no weepholes installed (although the flashing was
there).
We notified the builder, who had the mason come and insert
weepholes.
These weepholes were placed a full course above the bay roofline
(as
that's where the flashing was).

The roofer has tried putting new roofing cement on, etc., but
when it
rains "just right" or when I water test it with a hose, we still
have
some water coming in.

He said that he could cut a line in the mortar above the right
bay
window, and tuck the flashing / roof into it, then put roofing
cement
on. But, he can't do this over the left, because the flashing /
weepholes are right above the roofline.

So, my first question is should the weepholes / flashing be
directly
above the bay window roof? Or, should they be one (or more)
courses
up?

Any suggestions for dealing with this problem?

Thank you very much.





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