DIYbanter

DIYbanter (https://www.diybanter.com/)
-   Home Repair (https://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/)
-   -   Microwave Repair (https://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/68692-microwave-repair.html)

Steve Kissell September 10th 04 07:12 PM

Microwave Repair
 
Last evening while using our seven year old microwave there was a loud
bang and everything stopped.
I determined that my circuit breaker tripped and the microwave would
not restart.

Initially, I thought I detected a black powder residue near the
microwave door, but upon taking it down from the cabinet over the stove
and taking the cover off, I can't find anything that looks "fried" .

An appliance parts store nearby suggested that I have a technician (they
recommended) look at the magnetron.

Question:
Would that be the circular part about the size of a silver dollar and
3/8 " thick that is located in the base of the oven at its center?

It has two very thin wires coming out of it.

Greg September 10th 04 07:43 PM

Steve Kissell wrote:
Initially, I thought I detected a black powder residue near the
microwave door


First of all it's really dangerous to cook black powder in your
microwave, save that for your flinklock! :-)

An appliance parts store nearby suggested that I have a technician (they
recommended) look at the magnetron.

Question:
Would that be the circular part about the size of a silver dollar and
3/8 " thick that is located in the base of the oven at its center?


No it's that's not the magnetron. If you can't recognize a magnetron,
you should not be in there. If you put it together incorrectly you can
expose yourself to both high voltage and high power RF radiation.

However, you can "fix" it yourself. I had a magnetron burn out and I
looked into replacing it. I found three sources on line for the
particular magnetron that I required, cheapest one was $100. I bought a
new microwave for $70.

I know magnetrons are cheap to the manufacturer (like $10, perhaps
less), but I could not find a onesies-twosies distributor that was
cheap. Considering that you *will* have to have someone qualified
install it, *will* be cheaper to buy a new oven. Seven years is a good
run in this modern not-built-to-last world.

-Greg

willshak September 10th 04 08:25 PM

Steve Kissell wrote:

Last evening while using our seven year old microwave there was a loud
bang and everything stopped.
I determined that my circuit breaker tripped and the microwave would
not restart.

Initially, I thought I detected a black powder residue near the
microwave door, but upon taking it down from the cabinet over the
stove and taking the cover off, I can't find anything that looks
"fried" .

An appliance parts store nearby suggested that I have a technician
(they recommended) look at the magnetron.

Question:
Would that be the circular part about the size of a silver dollar and
3/8 " thick that is located in the base of the oven at its center?

It has two very thin wires coming out of it.


Toss it and buy a new one. It'll be cheaper and safer than a repair.
Besides, they'll have the latest features.

rck September 10th 04 09:37 PM



Toss it and buy a new one. It'll be cheaper and safer than a repair.
Besides, they'll have the latest features.


Excellent advice. I worked in a service facility repairing them, and if mine
went bad, I wouldn't bother repairing it.

Bob



Jim Yanik September 10th 04 10:29 PM

Steve Kissell wrote in
k.net:

Last evening while using our seven year old microwave there was a loud
bang and everything stopped.
I determined that my circuit breaker tripped and the microwave would
not restart.

Initially, I thought I detected a black powder residue near the
microwave door, but upon taking it down from the cabinet over the stove
and taking the cover off, I can't find anything that looks "fried" .

An appliance parts store nearby suggested that I have a technician (they
recommended) look at the magnetron.

Question:
Would that be the circular part about the size of a silver dollar and
3/8 " thick that is located in the base of the oven at its center?

It has two very thin wires coming out of it.


My 20 yr old Sharp MW had a loud snap,then went dead.Problem was a shorted
HV cap.I replaced it,the NV diode,and the open internal 30 A fuse,total
cost $26.00.
I got the parts at a local apppliance repair store.That was in 2000.
The MW still works today,gets used daily.

Since you can't identify electrical components,I suggest you take it to a
local apppliance repair store and let them repair it.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

Joseph Meehan September 11th 04 12:30 AM

Steve Kissell wrote:
Last evening while using our seven year old microwave there was a loud
bang and everything stopped.
I determined that my circuit breaker tripped and the microwave would
not restart.

Initially, I thought I detected a black powder residue near the
microwave door, but upon taking it down from the cabinet over the stove
and taking the cover off, I can't find anything that looks "fried" .

An appliance parts store nearby suggested that I have a technician (they
recommended) look at the magnetron.

Question:
Would that be the circular part about the size of a silver dollar and
3/8 " thick that is located in the base of the oven at its center?

It has two very thin wires coming out of it.



Consider it an opportunity to get a new one. It is likely to end up
costing you less than trying to repair what you have. The new one is likely
to be better and cheaper.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math




DanG September 11th 04 12:43 AM

If you are not electrically inclined, do this. . . . .

Open up the case. Where the cord enters the cabinet, look for a
fuse. It will look like the old glass tube automotive fuses. If
it has blown, replace it with the same model # from an appliance /
electrical store.

If it runs again, great!!!! If not, junk it.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Steve Kissell" wrote in message
k.net...
Last evening while using our seven year old microwave there was
a loud bang and everything stopped.
I determined that my circuit breaker tripped and the microwave
would not restart.

Initially, I thought I detected a black powder residue near the
microwave door, but upon taking it down from the cabinet over
the stove and taking the cover off, I can't find anything that
looks "fried" .

An appliance parts store nearby suggested that I have a
technician (they recommended) look at the magnetron.

Question:
Would that be the circular part about the size of a silver
dollar and 3/8 " thick that is located in the base of the oven
at its center?

It has two very thin wires coming out of it.




HRL September 11th 04 02:56 AM


"Steve Kissell" wrote in message
k.net...
Last evening while using our seven year old microwave there was a loud
bang and everything stopped.
I determined that my circuit breaker tripped and the microwave would
not restart.

Initially, I thought I detected a black powder residue near the
microwave door, but upon taking it down from the cabinet over the stove
and taking the cover off, I can't find anything that looks "fried" .

An appliance parts store nearby suggested that I have a technician (they
recommended) look at the magnetron.

Question:
Would that be the circular part about the size of a silver dollar and
3/8 " thick that is located in the base of the oven at its center?

It has two very thin wires coming out of it.


I expect it has a rotating plate. That part may be the motor for it. You
probably blew an interal fuse as well. I doubt that it would be worth
repairing. Only one I would even consider repairing would be a combination
convection and microwave.



Jeff Wisnia September 11th 04 03:47 AM

rck wrote:

Toss it and buy a new one. It'll be cheaper and safer than a repair.
Besides, they'll have the latest features.



Excellent advice. I worked in a service facility repairing them, and if mine
went bad, I wouldn't bother repairing it.

Bob



Amen to that! When my last one bit the dust I looked over what Sears had
on their floor and picked up a good sized "floor model" GE microwave for
$49.00. And, I didn't have to waste time cutting up a carton and
stuffing it in the trash.G

Jeff

--
My name is Jeff Wisnia and I approved this message....

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"

Martin September 11th 04 04:53 AM




"DanG" wrote in message
news:e_q0d.32133$Ka6.2064@okepread03...
Open up the case. Where the cord enters the cabinet, look for a

fuse. It will look like the old glass tube automotive fuses. If
it has blown, replace it with the same model # from an appliance /
electrical store.

If it runs again, great!!!! If not, junk it.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


We had a big Sharp Carousel that went dead suddenly after only 34 years. I
never throw anything out so we put it on the shelf and bought a new one.
But mention of the fuse now made me curious, so I took it into the shop,
pulled the fuse, and it was blown. Now my problem is identifying the
current rating of the fuse. I can't read it all because one end is
scratched.

I see "250 VOLT" on one end and "BUSS ABC" on the other end followed by a
"/" and I think a 5. The body is ceramic. The Sharp model number is R-9330
and it uses 1.3 kw.

Would anyone know what the current rating should be and what code if any
they might be using ? If I can find the right fuse and it works, we know
someone who could use it.

Marty



jeff September 11th 04 01:48 PM

"Martin" wrote in message .net...
"DanG" wrote in message
news:e_q0d.32133$Ka6.2064@okepread03...
Open up the case. Where the cord enters the cabinet, look for a

fuse. It will look like the old glass tube automotive fuses. If
it has blown, replace it with the same model # from an appliance /
electrical store.

If it runs again, great!!!! If not, junk it.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


We had a big Sharp Carousel that went dead suddenly after only 34 years. I
never throw anything out so we put it on the shelf and bought a new one.
But mention of the fuse now made me curious, so I took it into the shop,
pulled the fuse, and it was blown. Now my problem is identifying the
current rating of the fuse. I can't read it all because one end is
scratched.

I see "250 VOLT" on one end and "BUSS ABC" on the other end followed by a
"/" and I think a 5. The body is ceramic. The Sharp model number is R-9330
and it uses 1.3 kw.

Would anyone know what the current rating should be and what code if any
they might be using ? If I can find the right fuse and it works, we know
someone who could use it.

Marty


Hi,

Most older microwaves have used a 120 volt 15 amp fuse or an 250 volt
15 amp fuse. Newer higher power microwaves have switched to a 250 volt
20 amp fuse.

http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...20ampfuse.html

If the end of the fuse is burnt a bit, the fuse holder may be not
holding the fuse tight enough and the end of the fuses get
burnt/scratched a little.

http://www.applianceaid.com/micro.html#common
http://www.applianceaid.com/newpics/fuse_fuseholder.JPG

Fuse holder may need to be changed as well.

jeff
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

Jim Yanik September 11th 04 04:32 PM

"Martin" wrote in
. net:




"DanG" wrote in message
news:e_q0d.32133$Ka6.2064@okepread03...
Open up the case. Where the cord enters the cabinet, look for a

fuse. It will look like the old glass tube automotive fuses. If
it has blown, replace it with the same model # from an appliance /
electrical store.

If it runs again, great!!!! If not, junk it.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


We had a big Sharp Carousel that went dead suddenly after only 34
years. I never throw anything out so we put it on the shelf and
bought a new one. But mention of the fuse now made me curious, so I
took it into the shop, pulled the fuse, and it was blown. Now my
problem is identifying the current rating of the fuse. I can't read
it all because one end is scratched.

I see "250 VOLT" on one end and "BUSS ABC" on the other end followed
by a "/" and I think a 5. The body is ceramic. The Sharp model
number is R-9330 and it uses 1.3 kw.

Would anyone know what the current rating should be and what code if
any they might be using ? If I can find the right fuse and it works,
we know someone who could use it.

Marty




My Sharp R-9310 blew it's internal 30 A fuse because the HV capacitor
shorted.
It only cost $26 USD for a new cap from the local appliance repair store.

Considering that any 120VAC branch circuit in your house willnot have any
greater than a 20 amp breaker,a 30 A fuse seems reasonable.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

Ed September 12th 04 08:40 PM


"Steve Kissell" wrote

Last evening while using our seven year old microwave there was a loud
bang and everything stopped.
I determined that my circuit breaker tripped and the microwave would
not restart.

Initially, I thought I detected a black powder residue near the
microwave door, but upon taking it down from the cabinet over the stove
and taking the cover off, I can't find anything that looks "fried" .

An appliance parts store nearby suggested that I have a technician (they
recommended) look at the magnetron.


I just bought a new one for $68 at Walmart. I doubt you can find a repair
person to repair yours for that. Buy a new one.

Ed
Servicing appliances since 1975.



George E. Cawthon September 14th 04 03:38 AM



Steve Kissell wrote:

Last evening while using our seven year old microwave there was a loud
bang and everything stopped.
I determined that my circuit breaker tripped and the microwave would
not restart.

Initially, I thought I detected a black powder residue near the
microwave door, but upon taking it down from the cabinet over the stove
and taking the cover off, I can't find anything that looks "fried" .

An appliance parts store nearby suggested that I have a technician (they
recommended) look at the magnetron.

Question:
Would that be the circular part about the size of a silver dollar and
3/8 " thick that is located in the base of the oven at its center?

It has two very thin wires coming out of it.


Forget it. Anything you do is likely to cost way more than a new
microwave. If you really want to poke around, look at everything
until you find something with a hole in it or a big black burn. But
if you get it fixed it is still an old appliance and something else in
it is likely to go.

Thagor September 14th 04 03:49 AM

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in
:



Steve Kissell wrote:

Last evening while using our seven year old microwave there was a loud
bang and everything stopped.
I determined that my circuit breaker tripped and the microwave would
not restart.

Initially, I thought I detected a black powder residue near the
microwave door, but upon taking it down from the cabinet over the

stove
and taking the cover off, I can't find anything that looks "fried" .

An appliance parts store nearby suggested that I have a technician

(they
recommended) look at the magnetron.

Question:
Would that be the circular part about the size of a silver dollar and
3/8 " thick that is located in the base of the oven at its center?

It has two very thin wires coming out of it.


Forget it. Anything you do is likely to cost way more than a new
microwave. If you really want to poke around, look at everything
until you find something with a hole in it or a big black burn. But
if you get it fixed it is still an old appliance and something else in
it is likely to go.

If you do go ahead and tinker with this thing, keep in mind that a simple
misalignment during re-assembly can render RF leakage and possibly injure
future users. This is one repair that is best left to certified
technicians or factory rebuilders. Microwave radiation is not something
to be played with!


George E. Cawthon September 14th 04 03:57 AM



Martin wrote:

"DanG" wrote in message
news:e_q0d.32133$Ka6.2064@okepread03...
Open up the case. Where the cord enters the cabinet, look for a

fuse. It will look like the old glass tube automotive fuses. If
it has blown, replace it with the same model # from an appliance /
electrical store.

If it runs again, great!!!! If not, junk it.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


We had a big Sharp Carousel that went dead suddenly after only 34 years. I
never throw anything out so we put it on the shelf and bought a new one.
But mention of the fuse now made me curious, so I took it into the shop,
pulled the fuse, and it was blown. Now my problem is identifying the
current rating of the fuse. I can't read it all because one end is
scratched.

I see "250 VOLT" on one end and "BUSS ABC" on the other end followed by a
"/" and I think a 5. The body is ceramic. The Sharp model number is R-9330
and it uses 1.3 kw.

Would anyone know what the current rating should be and what code if any
they might be using ? If I can find the right fuse and it works, we know
someone who could use it.

Marty


Look at the back plate and see what the ampere rating is stated. 1.3
kW divided by 120V is about 11 amps, so if this is the main fuse in
the 120 V circuit it should be something less than 11 amps. If the
fuse is for a higher voltage circuit it might be 5 amps or lower. The
250 V rating isn't really an indication of the voltage of the
circuit. I would just buy a 5, 7, and 10A fuse and try each starting
at the low end and use which ever one didn't burn out. Of course,
something made it blow so you may have something else wrong. 34 years
is really old, I would junk it. buy a new little one for $50.


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:17 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter