Installing plywood over windows for hurricane
 

OK may be this is a little late for Frances, but a few questions:

Single story house in Miami, CBS construction, single slab foundation on
piles, awning windows.

(1) What is the best way to install plywood over the windows? Should I
cover the window and then drill in Tapcon to attach to the walls at the
corners? or is it better to use mansory anchors, and then drill holes on the
wood, fit over and fasten with nuts? This way I can reuse the anchors next
time. Plywood cannot be used once they get wet.

(2) Is it better to fit one big sheet over large windows, or fit a few
narrower strips vertically? I saw someone cut into strips and installed
them separately, wonder why other than it's easier to install (lighter
weight), assuming the same number of screws of course.

(3) Have two rear windows with burglar casing, what is the best way to
protect those? Plywood won't fit over.

(4) If the window is 48" high X 36" wide, and the plywood is 60"x80", would
you cover it horizontally, vertically, or cut to smaller size to fit? Which
will give best protection?

Thanks in advance,

O

On Fri, 3 Sep 2004 18:21:58 -0400, "orangetrader"
wrote:

(1) What is the best way to install plywood over the windows? Should I
cover the window and then drill in Tapcon to attach to the walls at the
corners? or is it better to use mansory anchors, and then drill holes on the
wood, fit over and fasten with nuts? This way I can reuse the anchors next
time. Plywood cannot be used once they get wet.

In the past I have used concrete screws to anchor the plywood to the
wall. Problem is that after 3 or four times the holes start wallering
out and the concrete screws don't hold anymore. While I am painting I
plan to drill them all out and use lead anchors.

Your plywood will be fine if you allow it to dry before you store it.
Eventually it will start to delaminate but in this use it will last
you a lifetime.


(2) Is it better to fit one big sheet over large windows, or fit a few
narrower strips vertically? I saw someone cut into strips and installed
them separately, wonder why other than it's easier to install (lighter
weight), assuming the same number of screws of course.

I use big sheets. Don't have any scientific foundation for doing so
though.


(3) Have two rear windows with burglar casing, what is the best way to
protect those? Plywood won't fit over.

Will it fit under? Maybe you could slide it between the burglar bars
and the windows and then attach it at top and bottom.


(4) If the window is 48" high X 36" wide, and the plywood is 60"x80", would
you cover it horizontally, vertically, or cut to smaller size to fit? Which
will give best protection?

I have all of mine cut about six inches bigger than the window. Again
I have no basis for this other than thats the way all the pro's did it
on the area businesses so I followed suit.

Steve B.

In article ,
says...
OK may be this is a little late for Frances, but a few questions:

Single story house in Miami, CBS construction, single slab foundation on
piles, awning windows.

(1) What is the best way to install plywood over the windows? Should I
cover the window and then drill in Tapcon to attach to the walls at the
corners? or is it better to use mansory anchors, and then drill holes on the
wood, fit over and fasten with nuts? This way I can reuse the anchors next
time. Plywood cannot be used once they get wet.


Take a look at "Plylox Hurricane Window Clips

http://www.plylox.com/

They are for windows on brick houses.I got mine at Home Depot. Can't
testify to their effectiveness, thank Good, but I have put them up once.
Very easy to use.

--
When Replying Remove "thepin" From Return Address

"orangetrader" wrote in message

This way I can reuse the anchors next
time. Plywood cannot be used once they get wet.

If you are doing this in advance, why not put a couple of coats of paint on
the plywood? Should last the life of the house that way. Number each sheet
to go back in the same place.

orangetrader wrote:
OK may be this is a little late for Frances, but a few questions:

Remember the purpose of these things.

1. To STOP a lawn chair, garbage can, or cat moving at 120 miles per hour
from knocking out the window.

2. Because if a window goes, in-rushing wind dramatically raises the
interior air pressure and there goes the roof.

"orangetrader" wrote in message
...
OK may be this is a little late for Frances, but a few questions:

Single story house in Miami, CBS construction, single slab foundation on
piles, awning windows.

(1) What is the best way to install plywood over the windows? Should I
cover the window and then drill in Tapcon to attach to the walls at the
corners? or is it better to use mansory anchors, and then drill holes on the
wood, fit over and fasten with nuts? This way I can reuse the anchors next
time. Plywood cannot be used once they get wet.


This is Turtle.

Get water treated Plywood and wetting it will make no difference in the future.
It will be wet when you buy it and just wait till it drys some before putting it
up.

Some one here said about closing window too tight and not letting the window
imploding , then cause roof to come off. This is very much true and don't
succure the plywood covers with too thick of plywood like 7/8" plywood or
imploding will take the roof off and you with it. There is alway about 3 to 300
tornados that come with a Hurrican and Imploding will happen when any of these
hit your home. Windows can be replace fair easily but putting the roof back on a
home is a big cost.

The window will go or the Roof. the choice is yours.

TURTLE

There was a story in Friday's St. Pete Times, first section, which gave real
downtoearth instructions about this. I know SPT is online - you can try finding
it.

It says to have the plywood four inches larger than the window and to put small
holes in center of plywood to relieve the pressure. Recommends screws over
each corner and then across the top and bottom every so many inches.

We used tapcon screws. We store the plywood in the garage between uses and
it's lasted several years. We have put it up several times but it never got
wet. We pieced several smaller pieces together (found some stray plywood that
had been discarded) and it's thicker and heavier than what you buy (but free)
to cover odd size windows.

Why would exterior plywood no longer be good after it gets wet????

I understand that. My questions still stand.

O

"JerryMouse" wrote in message
...
orangetrader wrote:
OK may be this is a little late for Frances, but a few questions:

Remember the purpose of these things.

1. To STOP a lawn chair, garbage can, or cat moving at 120 miles per hour
from knocking out the window.

2. Because if a window goes, in-rushing wind dramatically raises the
interior air pressure and there goes the roof.

On Mon, 6 Sep 2004 22:44:20 -0400, "orangetrader"
wrote:

I understand that. My questions still stand.

O

"JerryMouse" wrote in message
...
orangetrader wrote:
OK may be this is a little late for Frances, but a few questions:

Remember the purpose of these things.

1. To STOP a lawn chair, garbage can, or cat moving at 120 miles per hour
from knocking out the window.

2. Because if a window goes, in-rushing wind dramatically raises the
interior air pressure and there goes the roof.


The plywood over the windows is to keep the windows from imploding on
you. They will still break with the plywood over them

"orangetrader" wrote in message
...
OK may be this is a little late for Frances, but a few questions:

Single story house in Miami, CBS construction, single slab foundation on
piles, awning windows.

(1) What is the best way to install plywood over the windows? Should I
cover the window and then drill in Tapcon to attach to the walls at the
corners? or is it better to use mansory anchors, and then drill holes on
the
wood, fit over and fasten with nuts? This way I can reuse the anchors
next
time. Plywood cannot be used once they get wet.

(2) Is it better to fit one big sheet over large windows, or fit a few
narrower strips vertically? I saw someone cut into strips and installed
them separately, wonder why other than it's easier to install (lighter
weight), assuming the same number of screws of course.

(3) Have two rear windows with burglar casing, what is the best way to
protect those? Plywood won't fit over.

(4) If the window is 48" high X 36" wide, and the plywood is 60"x80",
would
you cover it horizontally, vertically, or cut to smaller size to fit?
Which
will give best protection?

Thanks in advance,

O


Only pro advice I have heard is to use 3/4 inch wood and space the screws no
further than 16 inches. Have your ply wood stowed away labeled for which
window it fits with screws started. If you have to go to the home depot you
are too late.

I still have trouble understanding this.

The plywood covers the windows and are fixed to the exterior concrete walls
using Tapcons. The windows themselves are at least four inches from the
surface of the exterior wall. If a lawn chair or a flying coconut slams on
the plywood at say 120 miles an hour, will it create a deflection on the
plywood board in excess of four inches to cause the window itself to break?
or are we saying that force alone will shake the concrete wall enough to
break the window glass?

My original question was to find out what is a better way to attach the
plywood, because after a few times the holes the Tapcon goes into are all
over the places and I wondered if it would be better to use anchors, and
whether larger sheets are better than a series of smaller sheets.

O

"LARRY THE CABLE GUY" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 6 Sep 2004 22:44:20 -0400, "orangetrader"
wrote:

I understand that. My questions still stand.

O

"JerryMouse" wrote in message
...
orangetrader wrote:
OK may be this is a little late for Frances, but a few questions:

Remember the purpose of these things.

1. To STOP a lawn chair, garbage can, or cat moving at 120 miles per
hour
from knocking out the window.

2. Because if a window goes, in-rushing wind dramatically raises the
interior air pressure and there goes the roof.


The plywood over the windows is to keep the windows from imploding on
you. They will still break with the plywood over them

On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 19:36:21 -0400, "orangetrader"
wrote:

The plywood covers the windows and are fixed to the exterior concrete walls
using Tapcons. The windows themselves are at least four inches from the
surface of the exterior wall. If a lawn chair or a flying coconut slams on
the plywood at say 120 miles an hour, will it create a deflection on the
plywood board in excess of four inches to cause the window itself to break?
or are we saying that force alone will shake the concrete wall enough to
break the window glass?

A 2x4 at 120 miles per hour will shatter the plywood *and* window...
:)

My original question was to find out what is a better way to attach the
plywood, because after a few times the holes the Tapcon goes into are all
over the places and I wondered if it would be better to use anchors, and
whether larger sheets are better than a series of smaller sheets.

Anchors and larger sheets. Hit the FEMA web site for hurricane
protection guides. And use 5/8" or 3/4" plywood.

Jeff


"LARRY THE CABLE GUY" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 6 Sep 2004 22:44:20 -0400, "orangetrader"
wrote:

I understand that. My questions still stand.

O

"JerryMouse" wrote in message
...
orangetrader wrote:
OK may be this is a little late for Frances, but a few questions:

Remember the purpose of these things.

1. To STOP a lawn chair, garbage can, or cat moving at 120 miles per
hour
from knocking out the window.

2. Because if a window goes, in-rushing wind dramatically raises the
interior air pressure and there goes the roof.


The plywood over the windows is to keep the windows from imploding on
you. They will still break with the plywood over them

On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 00:18:16 GMT, Jeff Cochran
wrote:

On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 19:36:21 -0400, "orangetrader"
wrote:

The plywood covers the windows and are fixed to the exterior concrete walls
using Tapcons. The windows themselves are at least four inches from the
surface of the exterior wall. If a lawn chair or a flying coconut slams on
the plywood at say 120 miles an hour, will it create a deflection on the
plywood board in excess of four inches to cause the window itself to break?
or are we saying that force alone will shake the concrete wall enough to
break the window glass?

A 2x4 at 120 miles per hour will shatter the plywood *and* window...
:)

My original question was to find out what is a better way to attach the
plywood, because after a few times the holes the Tapcon goes into are all
over the places and I wondered if it would be better to use anchors, and
whether larger sheets are better than a series of smaller sheets.

Anchors and larger sheets. Hit the FEMA web site for hurricane
protection guides. And use 5/8" or 3/4" plywood.

Jeff



from knocking out the window.

2. Because if a window goes, in-rushing wind dramatically raises the
interior air pressure and there goes the roof.


The plywood over the windows is to keep the windows from imploding on
you. They will still break with the plywood over them



Just move !

orangetrader wrote:

My original question was to find out what is a better way to attach
the plywood, because after a few times the holes the Tapcon goes
into are all over the places and I wondered if it would be better
to use anchors, and whether larger sheets are better than a series
of smaller sheets.

If I were doing it (didn't for either Charley or Frances) I would drill
holes in the block and put in lead anchors. I'd attach the ply - large -
with round head screws into the anchors. The holes in the ply would be way
oversize to allow for jiggle room when attaching. I'd use fender washers
under the screw heads.

--
dadiOH
_____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.0...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
____________________________

My in laws live in FL. Hes to old to hold up sheets of plywood so he had
hinges installed. Has them put up at beginning of the seasaon. Then he folds
them in place and bolts them down when needed. Takes about an hour to do the
whole house. Whenever I get down there later this fall I will take them down
til next year. Came in real hand this year. Kept a pine tree from coming
through the living room window.

I moved back to hurricane country (New Orleans) after 18 years in
tornado country (Atlanta) and built a "glass" house. At least it
looks that way when I think about boarding up.

A new thought for kicking around. Cut the plywood to fit the window.
Drill holes in the plywood every 18 - 24". Use cartop type suction
cups (3") secured with 1/4" bolts. Water the cups and press hard.
This spaces the wood away from the window about an inch - could be
farther with spacers - and would transfer the blows somewhat evenly
across the glass. To remove, unscrew the bolts and tip the suction
cups.

How crazy is this?

I would rather not drill holes in the stucco all over my new house.

Jim Key

"Jimmie" wrote in message om...
"orangetrader" wrote in message
...
OK may be this is a little late for Frances, but a few questions:

Single story house in Miami, CBS construction, single slab foundation on
piles, awning windows.

(1) What is the best way to install plywood over the windows? Should I
cover the window and then drill in Tapcon to attach to the walls at the
corners? or is it better to use mansory anchors, and then drill holes on
the
wood, fit over and fasten with nuts? This way I can reuse the anchors
next
time. Plywood cannot be used once they get wet.

(2) Is it better to fit one big sheet over large windows, or fit a few
narrower strips vertically? I saw someone cut into strips and installed
them separately, wonder why other than it's easier to install (lighter
weight), assuming the same number of screws of course.

(3) Have two rear windows with burglar casing, what is the best way to
protect those? Plywood won't fit over.

(4) If the window is 48" high X 36" wide, and the plywood is 60"x80",
would
you cover it horizontally, vertically, or cut to smaller size to fit?
Which
will give best protection?

Thanks in advance,

O


Only pro advice I have heard is to use 3/4 inch wood and space the screws no
further than 16 inches. Have your ply wood stowed away labeled for which
window it fits with screws started. If you have to go to the home depot you
are too late.

"Jim Key" wrote in message
om...
I moved back to hurricane country (New Orleans) after 18 years in
tornado country (Atlanta) and built a "glass" house. At least it
looks that way when I think about boarding up.

A new thought for kicking around. Cut the plywood to fit the window.
Drill holes in the plywood every 18 - 24". Use cartop type suction
cups (3") secured with 1/4" bolts. Water the cups and press hard.
This spaces the wood away from the window about an inch - could be
farther with spacers - and would transfer the blows somewhat evenly
across the glass. To remove, unscrew the bolts and tip the suction
cups.

How crazy is this?

pretty crazy. the reason for the bolts in the framing of the house (through
the stucco) is to transmit the force to something other than the glass. your
suction cups don't do that. with a direct hit, you'll have a punched out
window your way.

I would rather not drill holes in the stucco all over my new house.

Jim Key

"Jimmie" wrote in message
om...
"orangetrader" wrote in message
...
OK may be this is a little late for Frances, but a few questions:

Single story house in Miami, CBS construction, single slab foundation
on
piles, awning windows.

(1) What is the best way to install plywood over the windows? Should
I
cover the window and then drill in Tapcon to attach to the walls at
the
corners? or is it better to use mansory anchors, and then drill holes
on
the
wood, fit over and fasten with nuts? This way I can reuse the anchors
next
time. Plywood cannot be used once they get wet.

(2) Is it better to fit one big sheet over large windows, or fit a few
narrower strips vertically? I saw someone cut into strips and
installed
them separately, wonder why other than it's easier to install (lighter
weight), assuming the same number of screws of course.

(3) Have two rear windows with burglar casing, what is the best way to
protect those? Plywood won't fit over.

(4) If the window is 48" high X 36" wide, and the plywood is 60"x80",
would
you cover it horizontally, vertically, or cut to smaller size to fit?
Which
will give best protection?

Thanks in advance,

O


Only pro advice I have heard is to use 3/4 inch wood and space the
screws no
further than 16 inches. Have your ply wood stowed away labeled for which
window it fits with screws started. If you have to go to the home depot
you
are too late.

How do you get the plywood off?

On 22 Sep 2004 14:09:32 -0700, (Jim Key) wrote:

A new thought for kicking around. Cut the plywood to fit the window.
Drill holes in the plywood every 18 - 24". Use cartop type suction
cups (3") secured with 1/4" bolts. Water the cups and press hard.
This spaces the wood away from the window about an inch - could be
farther with spacers - and would transfer the blows somewhat evenly
across the glass. To remove, unscrew the bolts and tip the suction
cups.

How crazy is this?

Pretty crazy. When the neighbors cat hits the plywood at 130mph how
much cushion do you think those suction cups are going to provide? I
agree that the holes in the house look pretty cruddy. Especially if
you have a nice new house. Not much way around it though if you are
going to board up and don't have some type of permanent shutters.

Steve B.

Is this the same Jim Key that is formerly of IBM?
"Jim Key" wrote in message
om...
I moved back to hurricane country (New Orleans) after 18 years in
tornado country (Atlanta) and built a "glass" house. At least it
looks that way when I think about boarding up.

A new thought for kicking around. Cut the plywood to fit the window.
Drill holes in the plywood every 18 - 24". Use cartop type suction
cups (3") secured with 1/4" bolts. Water the cups and press hard.
This spaces the wood away from the window about an inch - could be
farther with spacers - and would transfer the blows somewhat evenly
across the glass. To remove, unscrew the bolts and tip the suction
cups.

How crazy is this?

I would rather not drill holes in the stucco all over my new house.

Jim Key

"Jimmie" wrote in message
om...
"orangetrader" wrote in message
...
OK may be this is a little late for Frances, but a few questions:

Single story house in Miami, CBS construction, single slab foundation
on
piles, awning windows.

(1) What is the best way to install plywood over the windows? Should
I
cover the window and then drill in Tapcon to attach to the walls at
the
corners? or is it better to use mansory anchors, and then drill holes
on
the
wood, fit over and fasten with nuts? This way I can reuse the anchors
next
time. Plywood cannot be used once they get wet.

(2) Is it better to fit one big sheet over large windows, or fit a few
narrower strips vertically? I saw someone cut into strips and
installed
them separately, wonder why other than it's easier to install (lighter
weight), assuming the same number of screws of course.

(3) Have two rear windows with burglar casing, what is the best way to
protect those? Plywood won't fit over.

(4) If the window is 48" high X 36" wide, and the plywood is 60"x80",
would
you cover it horizontally, vertically, or cut to smaller size to fit?
Which
will give best protection?

Thanks in advance,

O


Only pro advice I have heard is to use 3/4 inch wood and space the
screws no
further than 16 inches. Have your ply wood stowed away labeled for which
window it fits with screws started. If you have to go to the home depot
you
are too late.

In article ,
TURTLE wrote:

....


This is Turtle.

Get water treated Plywood and wetting it will make no difference in the future.
It will be wet when you buy it and just wait till it drys some before putting it
up.

Some one here said about closing window too tight and not letting the window
imploding , then cause roof to come off. This is very much true and don't
succure the plywood covers with too thick of plywood like 7/8" plywood or
imploding will take the roof off and you with it. There is alway about 3 to 300
tornados that come with a Hurrican and Imploding will happen when any of these
hit your home. Windows can be replace fair easily but putting the roof back on a
home is a big cost.

The window will go or the Roof. the choice is yours.

TURTLE



Question: what's the concept? To allow the window (behind
the plywood, at 4 or so inches?) to "go" pretty easily,
so that any pressure difference can quickly equalize between
inside the house and outside the window, or in front
of the plywood?

(Assuming the wind, etc, can whip around behind the
plywood, mounted *away* from the window?)

Putting up the plywood, and just leaving the window open?

Doors to the outside -- what about them?

Thanks

David

PS: what about picture-windows, or sliding glass-doors --
what to do about them?