New house removed some ugly built-ins and there is a gap where the trim ends. Straight run on brand new trim. I REALLY don't want to remove the existing trim that meets on outer corners for fear of screwing them up as well.

What would be the best way to butt join a piece of trim on a straight run without removing the existing trim. I know I could just slap some glue on each end and nail it up, but then I'd be waiting on the crack to open up when things got colder.

How about corrugated nails?
Any other technique to solve this?

Thanks.

On 7/21/2020 11:25 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
New house removed some ugly built-ins and there is a gap where the trim ends. Straight run on brand new trim. I REALLY don't want to remove the existing trim that meets on outer corners for fear of screwing them up as well.

What would be the best way to butt join a piece of trim on a straight run without removing the existing trim. I know I could just slap some glue on each end and nail it up, but then I'd be waiting on the crack to open up when things got colder.

How about corrugated nails?
Any other technique to solve this?

Don't even think about the corrugated nail thing...all you'll do is
split it or worse...

If don't have one, get a Harbor Freight multitool and use it to make 45
on the existing piece (best to be long end out; hides the gap better to
slide new piece behind).

Then miter the new end and glue and nail as usual...finish with a little
painters caulk and paint.

--

On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 12:48:42 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 7/21/2020 11:25 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
New house removed some ugly built-ins and there is a gap where the trim ends. Straight run on brand new trim. I REALLY don't want to remove the existing trim that meets on outer corners for fear of screwing them up as well.

What would be the best way to butt join a piece of trim on a straight run without removing the existing trim. I know I could just slap some glue on each end and nail it up, but then I'd be waiting on the crack to open up when things got colder.

How about corrugated nails?
Any other technique to solve this?

Don't even think about the corrugated nail thing...all you'll do is
split it or worse...

If don't have one, get a Harbor Freight multitool and use it to make 45
on the existing piece (best to be long end out; hides the gap better to
slide new piece behind).

Then miter the new end and glue and nail as usual...finish with a little
painters caulk and paint.

--

Help me out with this "multitool" is it like a dremel or something?

On 7/21/2020 10:15 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 12:48:42 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 7/21/2020 11:25 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
New house removed some ugly built-ins and there is a gap where the trim ends. Straight run on brand new trim. I REALLY don't want to remove the existing trim that meets on outer corners for fear of screwing them up as well.

What would be the best way to butt join a piece of trim on a straight run without removing the existing trim. I know I could just slap some glue on each end and nail it up, but then I'd be waiting on the crack to open up when things got colder.

How about corrugated nails?
Any other technique to solve this?

Don't even think about the corrugated nail thing...all you'll do is
split it or worse...

If don't have one, get a Harbor Freight multitool and use it to make 45
on the existing piece (best to be long end out; hides the gap better to
slide new piece behind).

Then miter the new end and glue and nail as usual...finish with a little
painters caulk and paint.

--

Help me out with this "multitool" is it like a dremel or something?


https://www.harborfreight.com/oscill...ool-62866.html

On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 1:42:50 PM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
On 7/21/2020 10:15 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 12:48:42 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 7/21/2020 11:25 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
New house removed some ugly built-ins and there is a gap where the trim ends. Straight run on brand new trim. I REALLY don't want to remove the existing trim that meets on outer corners for fear of screwing them up as well.

What would be the best way to butt join a piece of trim on a straight run without removing the existing trim. I know I could just slap some glue on each end and nail it up, but then I'd be waiting on the crack to open up when things got colder.

How about corrugated nails?
Any other technique to solve this?

Don't even think about the corrugated nail thing...all you'll do is
split it or worse...

If don't have one, get a Harbor Freight multitool and use it to make 45
on the existing piece (best to be long end out; hides the gap better to
slide new piece behind).

Then miter the new end and glue and nail as usual...finish with a little
painters caulk and paint.

--

Help me out with this "multitool" is it like a dremel or something?


https://www.harborfreight.com/oscill...ool-62866.html

Thanks. Not quite sure how I'll manage to cut a decent 45 degrees and also not make contact with polished cement floor though :-|

On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 1:52:22 PM UTC-4, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 1:42:50 PM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
On 7/21/2020 10:15 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 12:48:42 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 7/21/2020 11:25 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
New house removed some ugly built-ins and there is a gap where the trim ends. Straight run on brand new trim. I REALLY don't want to remove the existing trim that meets on outer corners for fear of screwing them up as well.

What would be the best way to butt join a piece of trim on a straight run without removing the existing trim. I know I could just slap some glue on each end and nail it up, but then I'd be waiting on the crack to open up when things got colder.

How about corrugated nails?
Any other technique to solve this?

Don't even think about the corrugated nail thing...all you'll do is
split it or worse...

If don't have one, get a Harbor Freight multitool and use it to make 45
on the existing piece (best to be long end out; hides the gap better to
slide new piece behind).

Then miter the new end and glue and nail as usual...finish with a little
painters caulk and paint.

--

Help me out with this "multitool" is it like a dremel or something?


https://www.harborfreight.com/oscill...ool-62866.html

Thanks. Not quite sure how I'll manage to cut a decent 45 degrees and also not make contact with polished cement floor though :-|

Ahh...maybe cut a scrape piece at 45 degrees and connect and use it as a guide?

On 7/21/2020 11:03 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 1:52:22 PM UTC-4, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 1:42:50 PM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
On 7/21/2020 10:15 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 12:48:42 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 7/21/2020 11:25 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
New house removed some ugly built-ins and there is a gap where the trim ends. Straight run on brand new trim. I REALLY don't want to remove the existing trim that meets on outer corners for fear of screwing them up as well.

What would be the best way to butt join a piece of trim on a straight run without removing the existing trim. I know I could just slap some glue on each end and nail it up, but then I'd be waiting on the crack to open up when things got colder.

How about corrugated nails?
Any other technique to solve this?

Don't even think about the corrugated nail thing...all you'll do is
split it or worse...

If don't have one, get a Harbor Freight multitool and use it to make 45
on the existing piece (best to be long end out; hides the gap better to
slide new piece behind).

Then miter the new end and glue and nail as usual...finish with a little
painters caulk and paint.

--

Help me out with this "multitool" is it like a dremel or something?


https://www.harborfreight.com/oscill...ool-62866.html

Thanks. Not quite sure how I'll manage to cut a decent 45 degrees and also not make contact with polished cement floor though :-|

Ahh...maybe cut a scrape piece at 45 degrees and connect and use it as a guide?


Yes

I have used this tool with the round wood cutting blade to to make very
clean cuts by using a piece of wood clamped to the work piece and
resting the blade against the wood guide as it cuts, working it
carefully back and forth to go deeper in multiple passes. A counter I
shortened this way was a clean enough edge to install the counter end
formica on it perfectly.

ArghArgh writes:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 1:42:50 PM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
On 7/21/2020 10:15 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 12:48:42 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 7/21/2020 11:25 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
New house removed some ugly built-ins and there is a gap where the trim ends. Straight run on brand new trim. I REALLY don't want to remove the existing trim that meets on outer corners for fear of screwing them up as well.

What would be the best way to butt join a piece of trim on a straight run without removing the existing trim. I know I could just slap some glue on each end and nail it up, but then I'd be waiting on the crack to open up when things got colder.

How about corrugated nails?
Any other technique to solve this?

Don't even think about the corrugated nail thing...all you'll do is
split it or worse...

If don't have one, get a Harbor Freight multitool and use it to make 45
on the existing piece (best to be long end out; hides the gap better to
slide new piece behind).

Then miter the new end and glue and nail as usual...finish with a little
painters caulk and paint.

--

Help me out with this "multitool" is it like a dremel or something?


https://www.harborfreight.com/oscill...ool-62866.html

Thanks. Not quite sure how I'll manage to cut a decent 45 degrees and also not make contact with polished cement floor though :-|

Slide a piece of galvanized flashing between the floor and the trim at the
cut point.

Or you can open the bottom and top of a soup can, cut down once side, flatten
it, and use it inplace of a scrap of flashing.

On 7/21/2020 1:03 PM, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 1:52:22 PM UTC-4, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 1:42:50 PM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
On 7/21/2020 10:15 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 12:48:42 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 7/21/2020 11:25 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
New house removed some ugly built-ins and there is a gap where the trim ends. Straight run on brand new trim. I REALLY don't want to remove the existing trim that meets on outer corners for fear of screwing them up as well.

What would be the best way to butt join a piece of trim on a straight run without removing the existing trim. I know I could just slap some glue on each end and nail it up, but then I'd be waiting on the crack to open up when things got colder.

How about corrugated nails?
Any other technique to solve this?

Don't even think about the corrugated nail thing...all you'll do is
split it or worse...

If don't have one, get a Harbor Freight multitool and use it to make 45
on the existing piece (best to be long end out; hides the gap better to
slide new piece behind).

Then miter the new end and glue and nail as usual...finish with a little
painters caulk and paint.

--

Help me out with this "multitool" is it like a dremel or something?


https://www.harborfreight.com/oscill...ool-62866.html

Thanks. Not quite sure how I'll manage to cut a decent 45 degrees and also not make contact with polished cement floor though :-|

Ahh...maybe cut a scrape piece at 45 degrees and connect and use it as a guide?

Yes...although that's the point of putting the angle to the rear, you
can hide a lot behind that front face if you just get a clean/straight
cut at the front.

But, as others have already noted, it's possible to do really clean work
with these in very cramped circumstances...needless to say, if you've
not used one before (as one gathers haven't ), practice on some scrap
pieces first to get the hang of using it.

As another noted on a cabinet end, I cut off window sill which had
rotted out cleanly and straight enough to glue new piece in place at the
lip where the window meets the sill. It's difficult to tell where the
glue line actually is.

I can't see your actual location, but if the piece of base is fairly
long before the corner, I'd probably try to pull the end few feet loose
so can have some room behind the piece for a little more access---if you
can do that, you could undoubtedly also get a little clearance above the
floor to help there as well.

Post a picture on a hosting site and folks may have further specific
suggestions.

But, it's a doable repair...

--

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 21 Jul 2020 10:52:17 -0700 (PDT), ArghArgh
wrote:

On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 1:42:50 PM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
On 7/21/2020 10:15 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 12:48:42 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 7/21/2020 11:25 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
New house removed some ugly built-ins and there is a gap where the trim ends. Straight run on brand new trim. I REALLY don't want to remove the existing trim that meets on outer corners for fear of screwing them up as well.

What would be the best way to butt join a piece of trim on a straight run without removing the existing trim. I know I could just slap some glue on each end and nail it up, but then I'd be waiting on the crack to open up when things got colder.

How about corrugated nails?
Any other technique to solve this?

Don't even think about the corrugated nail thing...all you'll do is
split it or worse...

If don't have one, get a Harbor Freight multitool and use it to make 45
on the existing piece (best to be long end out; hides the gap better to
slide new piece behind).

Then miter the new end and glue and nail as usual...finish with a little
painters caulk and paint.

--

Help me out with this "multitool" is it like a dremel or something?


https://www.harborfreight.com/oscill...ool-62866.html

Thanks. Not quite sure how I'll manage to cut a decent 45 degrees and also not make contact with polished cement floor though :-|

Floor? How did the floor get involved? Is this a baseboard?

If it's brand new trim, how hard is it to remove a piece?

On 7/21/2020 3:11 PM, dpb wrote:
On 7/21/2020 1:03 PM, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 1:52:22 PM UTC-4, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 1:42:50 PM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
On 7/21/2020 10:15 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 12:48:42 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 7/21/2020 11:25 AM, ArghArgh wrote:
New house removed some ugly built-ins and there is a gap where
the trim ends. Straight run on brand new trim. I REALLY don't
want to remove the existing trim that meets on outer corners for
fear of screwing them up as well.

What would be the best way to butt join a piece of trim on a
straight run without removing the existing trim.Â* I know I could
just slap some glue on each end and nail it up, but then I'd be
waiting on the crack to open up when things got colder.

How about corrugated nails?
Any other technique to solve this?

Don't even think about the corrugated nail thing...all you'll do is
split it or worse...

If don't have one, get a Harbor Freight multitool and use it to
make 45
on the existing piece (best to be long end out; hides the gap
better to
slide new piece behind).

Then miter the new end and glue and nail as usual...finish with a
little
painters caulk and paint.

--

Help me out with this "multitool" is it like a dremel or something?


https://www.harborfreight.com/oscill...ool-62866.html

Thanks. Not quite sure how I'll manage to cut a decent 45 degrees and
also not make contact with polished cement floor though :-|

Ahh...maybe cut a scrape piece at 45 degrees and connect and use it as
a guide?

Yes...although that's the point of putting the angle to the rear, you
can hide a lot behind that front face if you just get a clean/straight
cut at the front.

But, as others have already noted, it's possible to do really clean work
with these in very cramped circumstances...needless to say, if you've
not used one before (as one gathers haven't ), practice on some scrap
pieces first to get the hang of using it.

As another noted on a cabinet end, I cut off window sill which had
rotted out cleanly and straight enough to glue new piece in place at the
lip where the window meets the sill.Â* It's difficult to tell where the
glue line actually is.

I can't see your actual location, but if the piece of base is fairly
long before the corner, I'd probably try to pull the end few feet loose
so can have some room behind the piece for a little more access---if you
can do that, you could undoubtedly also get a little clearance above the
floor to help there as well.

Post a picture on a hosting site and folks may have further specific
suggestions.

But, it's a doable repair...

BTW, if push comes to shove, it'll be no big deal to just cut a good
square butt joint end...use a high-tack yellow glue preferably as it'll
grab quicker and make the piece just a little long so have some pressure
when fit two ends together (this will also work _much_ better if you do
get some freedom at the end as mentioned above).

Nail and clean up the glue squeeze out before dries hard...a little
painters caulk will deal with any minor places and be flexible enough to
not telegraph the joint.

--