Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9

On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

On 7/15/20 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Use one of these instead. It has a screw to attach it to existing outlet
in place of original cover plate

plus the 3 lower outlets will easily accommodate wall warts

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-6-Out...0759/203724441

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 15 Jul 2020 16:40:32 -0400, Ed Pawlowski
wrote:

On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it

How do you look at pictures past the first one?

in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 17:12:51 -0400, micky wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 15 Jul 2020 16:40:32 -0400, Ed Pawlowski
wrote:

On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it

How do you look at pictures past the first one?

Scroll down?



in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

In article ,
AK wrote:

Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing
cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9

AK-

I doubt it.

There are 6-outlet versions that use a center screw to hold them in
place of the original cover.

Do a search for "six outlet" and you should find them.

Fred

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:46:21 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On 7/15/20 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Use one of these instead. It has a screw to attach it to existing outlet
in place of original cover plate

plus the 3 lower outlets will easily accommodate wall warts

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-6-Out...0759/203724441

Thanks.

I like that it is not crowded so I do not have to trim those "nubs" off the plugs.

Andy

On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 13:28:54 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9

No. The 6-outlet versions have a center screw which holds them fast.
I'm using 3 or 4 of them and they work well.

On 7/15/2020 1:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


A couple layers of double stick foam tape might do it.

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 15 Jul 2020 16:40:32 -0400, Ed Pawlowski
wrote:

On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Oh, you mean the 3rd one down on this page. I thought you meant the
imgur page above!!

On 7/15/2020 7:54 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 15 Jul 2020 16:40:32 -0400, Ed Pawlowski
wrote:

On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Oh, you mean the 3rd one down on this page. I thought you meant the
imgur page above!!




Yep, I was right. LMFAO!

On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 13:28:54 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9
To match the rest of the job you might try baling wire or duct tape.

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 8:56:15 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 13:28:54 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9
To match the rest of the job you might try baling wire or duct tape.

Me thinks you have an anger problem.

Andy

On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 9:05:01 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

It is not wired with an extension cord, but with properly gauged wire.

Andy

On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:09:03 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 9:05:01 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

It is not wired with an extension cord, but with properly gauged wire.

Andy

It is still a device box on a cord. That box is only listed if the
"cable" (not a cord) is secured within 12" of the push in entry.
Clare is right, you would have been better off with a power strip.
Then you would not be having the tap problem in the first place.

I usually try not to get involved in these things because the actual
code would really **** you off. None of that stuff is legal (cube
taps, power strips, 6 outlet extensions etc) if it is not "temporary"
(in use 90 days). The language refers to substituting relocatable
power taps for building wiring. Fortunately building inspectors don't
usually get involved after permits are closed but a fire marshal/life
safety officer would tag all of that stuff in an office if he is doing
his job

On Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 1:08:03 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:09:03 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 9:05:01 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

It is not wired with an extension cord, but with properly gauged wire.

Andy

It is still a device box on a cord. That box is only listed if the
"cable" (not a cord) is secured within 12" of the push in entry.
Clare is right, you would have been better off with a power strip.
Then you would not be having the tap problem in the first place.

I usually try not to get involved in these things because the actual
code would really **** you off. None of that stuff is legal (cube
taps, power strips, 6 outlet extensions etc) if it is not "temporary"
(in use 90 days). The language refers to substituting relocatable
power taps for building wiring. Fortunately building inspectors don't
usually get involved after permits are closed but a fire marshal/life
safety officer would tag all of that stuff in an office if he is doing
his job

It would not not upset me.

PLEASE not get too stressed out

Andy

On Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 2:08:03 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:09:03 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 9:05:01 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

It is not wired with an extension cord, but with properly gauged wire.

Andy

It is still a device box on a cord. That box is only listed if the
"cable" (not a cord) is secured within 12" of the push in entry.
Clare is right, you would have been better off with a power strip.
Then you would not be having the tap problem in the first place.

I usually try not to get involved in these things because the actual
code would really **** you off. None of that stuff is legal (cube
taps, power strips, 6 outlet extensions etc) if it is not "temporary"
(in use 90 days). The language refers to substituting relocatable
power taps for building wiring. Fortunately building inspectors don't
usually get involved after permits are closed but a fire marshal/life
safety officer would tag all of that stuff in an office if he is doing
his job

Our fire marshal only complains if we daisy-chain power strips
together.

Cindy Hamilton

On Thu, 16 Jul 2020 03:33:08 -0700 (PDT), Cindy Hamilton
wrote:

On Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 2:08:03 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:09:03 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 9:05:01 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

It is not wired with an extension cord, but with properly gauged wire.

Andy

It is still a device box on a cord. That box is only listed if the
"cable" (not a cord) is secured within 12" of the push in entry.
Clare is right, you would have been better off with a power strip.
Then you would not be having the tap problem in the first place.

I usually try not to get involved in these things because the actual
code would really **** you off. None of that stuff is legal (cube
taps, power strips, 6 outlet extensions etc) if it is not "temporary"
(in use 90 days). The language refers to substituting relocatable
power taps for building wiring. Fortunately building inspectors don't
usually get involved after permits are closed but a fire marshal/life
safety officer would tag all of that stuff in an office if he is doing
his job

Our fire marshal only complains if we daisy-chain power strips
together.

Cindy Hamilton

It may depend on how they feel that day I assume but they can be happy
if the strip has over current protection. It can be argued that the
only "legal" one has surge protection in it.

On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:04:04 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 8:56:15 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 13:28:54 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9
To match the rest of the job you might try baling wire or duct tape.

Me thinks you have an anger problem.

Andy
Not anger. Just an aversion to improperly done electrical
installations.

On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:09:03 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 9:05:01 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

It is not wired with an extension cord, but with properly gauged wire.

Andy
Not according to the picture. What you have installed is illegal and
could be unsafe. Definitely not done "to code" Flexible cable is NOT
allowed for permanent installation, and the cable MUST be secured to
the structure within 6 inches of the box, and fastened every 2 frrt or
so to the wall. Also, that kinf of cable needs to be secured to the
box with a proper strain relief bushing listed for use with that
cable.

On 7/16/2020 9:43 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:09:03 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 9:05:01 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

It is not wired with an extension cord, but with properly gauged wire.

Andy
Not according to the picture. What you have installed is illegal and
could be unsafe. Definitely not done "to code" Flexible cable is NOT
allowed for permanent installation, and the cable MUST be secured to
the structure within 6 inches of the box, and fastened every 2 frrt or
so to the wall. Also, that kinf of cable needs to be secured to the
box with a proper strain relief bushing listed for use with that
cable.

Agreed it's not Code but it's not likely very unsafe...the biggest
practical thing is there is no strain relief in such a box and there
appears to be sufficient excess length of the cord that it could fairly
easily be a trip/yank waiting to happen...

Then adding the multi-cube on top is just Rube Goldberg in action...

--

On Thu, 16 Jul 2020 02:07:36 -0400, posted
for all of us to digest...


On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:09:03 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 9:05:01 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

It is not wired with an extension cord, but with properly gauged wire.

Andy

It is still a device box on a cord. That box is only listed if the
"cable" (not a cord) is secured within 12" of the push in entry.
Clare is right, you would have been better off with a power strip.
Then you would not be having the tap problem in the first place.

I usually try not to get involved in these things because the actual
code would really **** you off. None of that stuff is legal (cube
taps, power strips, 6 outlet extensions etc) if it is not "temporary"
(in use 90 days). The language refers to substituting relocatable
power taps for building wiring. Fortunately building inspectors don't
usually get involved after permits are closed but a fire marshal/life
safety officer would tag all of that stuff in an office if he is doing
his job

+1

--
Tekkie

On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 22:04:58 -0400, Clare Snyder posted for all
of us to digest...


On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

Little*** shaky there.

--
Tekkie

On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 21:56:12 -0400, Clare Snyder posted for all
of us to digest...


On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 13:28:54 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9
To match the rest of the job you might try baling wire or duct tape.

Only the aluminum duct tape.

--
Tekkie

On 7/16/2020 1:07 AM, wrote:
....

It is still a device box on a cord. That box is only listed if the
"cable" (not a cord) is secured within 12" of the push in entry.
Clare is right, you would have been better off with a power strip.
Then you would not be having the tap problem in the first place.

I usually try not to get involved in these things because the actual
code would really **** you off. ...

Indeed! The combination of NEC and OSHA for job site "handy box"
extension cords are, indeed, infuriatingly over-the-top in banning
things that are certainly safe-enough to be no real hazard at all but
just don't have the window-dressing.

Fortunately, some things can be safely ignored when don't have to answer
to OSHA...

--

On Sat, 18 Jul 2020 14:43:08 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 7/16/2020 1:07 AM, wrote:
...

It is still a device box on a cord. That box is only listed if the
"cable" (not a cord) is secured within 12" of the push in entry.
Clare is right, you would have been better off with a power strip.
Then you would not be having the tap problem in the first place.

I usually try not to get involved in these things because the actual
code would really **** you off. ...

Indeed! The combination of NEC and OSHA for job site "handy box"
extension cords are, indeed, infuriatingly over-the-top in banning
things that are certainly safe-enough to be no real hazard at all but
just don't have the window-dressing.

Fortunately, some things can be safely ignored when don't have to answer
to OSHA...

I have about 600' of extension cords my wife confiscated from the job
sites when she heard OSHA was in town. The deal was "make them
compliant or buy a new one". Pretty much everyone bought a new one.
The damage was usually in the first or last few feet of the end so I
ended up with a bunch of 90' and 40' 12 ga cords. I even offered to
give them back for the price of the connectors I bought but nobody
bit.
OSHA is a funny beast in the boonies like we live in. If there is an
accident in town the flying squad comes in. That job gets picked
apart. Then they go around town writing tickets for a week and they
are gone.
Woe be to the contractor or job super who is not paying attention to
the buzz about an accident.
In the 7 years she built houses her jobs were fairly much unscathed by
fines and penalties but she had the reputation of being the safety
nazi. Hard hats, eye protection and proper footwear was the top of the
list. Next came ladders and fall protection, boots on the rebar and
keeping the ground around the building clear. GFCIs were never an
issue because all temporary power was on GFCI at the source. Cords
were still a problem tho.

On Sat, 18 Jul 2020 17:13:30 -0400, wrote:


Woe be to the contractor or job super who is not paying attention to
the buzz about an accident.

I was in the middle of replacing the back porch 6x6"s on my brick 2-flat in Chicago when a
father and son were killed working on their foundation of their frame 2-flat. Crushed when
the house collapsed on them.
Luckily nobody reported it.

On 07/18/2020 03:13 PM, wrote:
OSHA is a funny beast in the boonies like we live in. If there is an
accident in town the flying squad comes in. That job gets picked
apart. Then they go around town writing tickets for a week and they
are gone.

In the early days of OSHA we got quite a bit of work fitting safety
guards on molding presses. Some of them created more pinch points that
the press itself but OSHA way happy.

My favorite was a safety bar that swung in between the press platens to
prevent the ram from closing. In a down acting press the ram usually
free falls, pulling fluid in through a big check valve. When the press
is closed, the valve closes and the cylinder builds pressure. Something
went wrong and the pilot operated check was closed as the press
descended. It spit out the pretzel shaped safety bar like a watermelon seed.

We got written up for an ungrounded water cooler. The cooler feed was
sweated copper all the way back and about the only thing in the shop
that had a solid ground. As long as all the green wires were connected
the OSHA guy didn't care if they were floating.

On Sat, 18 Jul 2020 18:29:02 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 07/18/2020 03:13 PM, wrote:
OSHA is a funny beast in the boonies like we live in. If there is an
accident in town the flying squad comes in. That job gets picked
apart. Then they go around town writing tickets for a week and they
are gone.

In the early days of OSHA we got quite a bit of work fitting safety
guards on molding presses. Some of them created more pinch points that
the press itself but OSHA way happy.

My favorite was a safety bar that swung in between the press platens to
prevent the ram from closing. In a down acting press the ram usually
free falls, pulling fluid in through a big check valve. When the press
is closed, the valve closes and the cylinder builds pressure. Something
went wrong and the pilot operated check was closed as the press
descended. It spit out the pretzel shaped safety bar like a watermelon seed.

We got written up for an ungrounded water cooler. The cooler feed was
sweated copper all the way back and about the only thing in the shop
that had a solid ground. As long as all the green wires were connected
the OSHA guy didn't care if they were floating.

Back in the 70s I was in a government office that had a paper shear
they were using that probably would cut a phone book in half. The new
safety switches were on both side rails, about 35-40 inches apart so
the operator could not hit the shear while his hand was in it. The
first time I saw the safety guy demonstrate it, he cut off the end of
his tie. They had that hanging on the wall for years after that.

On 7/18/2020 8:29 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 07/18/2020 03:13 PM, wrote:
OSHA is a funny beast in the boonies like we live in. If there is an
accident in town the flying squad comes in. That job gets picked
apart. Then they go around town writing tickets for a week and they
are gone.

In the early days of OSHA we got quite a bit of work fitting safety
guards on molding presses. Some of them created more pinch points that
the press itself but OSHA way happy.

My favorite was a safety bar that swung in between the press platens to
prevent the ram from closing. In a down acting press the ram usually
free falls, pulling fluid in through a big check valve. When the press
is closed, the valve closes and the cylinder builds pressure. Something
went wrong and the pilot operated check was closed as the press
descended. It spit out the pretzel shaped safety bar like a watermelon
seed.

We got written up for an ungrounded water cooler. The cooler feed was
sweated copper all the way back and about the only thing in the shop
that had a solid ground. As long as all the green wires were connected
the OSHA guy didn't care if they were floating.

Must have been the same inspectors we had for molding machines. No
guards and parts were removed by hand between the platens. We got
written up for an ungrounded refrigerator in the break room.

On Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 1:24:20 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 7/16/2020 9:43 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:09:03 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 9:05:01 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

It is not wired with an extension cord, but with properly gauged wire.

Andy
Not according to the picture. What you have installed is illegal and
could be unsafe. Definitely not done "to code" Flexible cable is NOT
allowed for permanent installation, and the cable MUST be secured to
the structure within 6 inches of the box, and fastened every 2 frrt or
so to the wall. Also, that kinf of cable needs to be secured to the
box with a proper strain relief bushing listed for use with that
cable.

Agreed it's not Code but it's not likely very unsafe...the biggest
practical thing is there is no strain relief in such a box and there
appears to be sufficient excess length of the cord that it could fairly
easily be a trip/yank waiting to happen...

Then adding the multi-cube on top is just Rube Goldberg in action...

--

I will attach the cord and provide strain relief.

But there are some here who will complain no matter what.

:-)

Andy

On Sunday, July 19, 2020 at 8:11:58 AM UTC-5, AK wrote:
On Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 1:24:20 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 7/16/2020 9:43 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:09:03 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 9:05:01 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

It is not wired with an extension cord, but with properly gauged wire.

Andy
Not according to the picture. What you have installed is illegal and
could be unsafe. Definitely not done "to code" Flexible cable is NOT
allowed for permanent installation, and the cable MUST be secured to
the structure within 6 inches of the box, and fastened every 2 frrt or
so to the wall. Also, that kinf of cable needs to be secured to the
box with a proper strain relief bushing listed for use with that
cable.

Agreed it's not Code but it's not likely very unsafe...the biggest
practical thing is there is no strain relief in such a box and there
appears to be sufficient excess length of the cord that it could fairly
easily be a trip/yank waiting to happen...

Then adding the multi-cube on top is just Rube Goldberg in action...

--

I will attach the cord and provide strain relief.

But there are some here who will complain no matter what.

:-)

Andy

And adding this.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sigma-Elect...-Cover/1099067

Andy

On 7/19/2020 8:15 AM, AK wrote:
On Sunday, July 19, 2020 at 8:11:58 AM UTC-5, AK wrote:
On Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 1:24:20 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 7/16/2020 9:43 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:09:03 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 9:05:01 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

It is not wired with an extension cord, but with properly gauged wire.

Andy
Not according to the picture. What you have installed is illegal and
could be unsafe. Definitely not done "to code" Flexible cable is NOT
allowed for permanent installation, and the cable MUST be secured to
the structure within 6 inches of the box, and fastened every 2 frrt or
so to the wall. Also, that kinf of cable needs to be secured to the
box with a proper strain relief bushing listed for use with that
cable.

Agreed it's not Code but it's not likely very unsafe...the biggest
practical thing is there is no strain relief in such a box and there
appears to be sufficient excess length of the cord that it could fairly
easily be a trip/yank waiting to happen...

Then adding the multi-cube on top is just Rube Goldberg in action...

--

I will attach the cord and provide strain relief.

But there are some here who will complain no matter what.

:-)

Andy

And adding this.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sigma-Elect...-Cover/1099067

Andy

Indeed, can't expect concurrence with out-of-Code stuff in public forum
whether anybody might do something similar or not on own.

This is one that it seems like a lot of effort required to not just take
the practical solution of getting a manufactured power strip instead.
It would avoid the need for the additional cube eliminating the problem
that the original question raised entirely as well as the unsightly and
highly questionable use of the wall handy box as mobile device.

If distance is the problem, making the modification of replacing
original one with a longer cord would be the neater solution.

--

On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 9:05PM, UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

People do stuff like that and wire up outlets to 277 lighting voltage every year. But,UL laboratories expect that from the peanut gallery, so these devices and other hardware (both hardwired or plug-in) can usually take the abuse of the wrong voltage/current/ wiring combo.
(not that that should ever be the aim, though)

On Sun, 19 Jul 2020 08:46:08 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 9:05PM, UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

People do stuff like that and wire up outlets to 277 lighting voltage every year. But,UL laboratories expect that from the peanut gallery, so these devices and other hardware (both hardwired or plug-in) can usually take the abuse of the wrong voltage/current/ wiring combo.
(not that that should ever be the aim, though)
Clowns will do what clowns will do. Sadly it's the "engineers" (from
other disciplines) that do the stupidest stuff, ask the craziest
questions, and ignore the advice given.

On 7/19/20 10:46 AM, wrote:
On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 9:05PM, UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

People do stuff like that and wire up outlets to 277 lighting voltage every year. But,UL laboratories expect that from the peanut gallery, so these devices and other hardware (both hardwired or plug-in) can usually take the abuse of the wrong voltage/current/ wiring combo.
(not that that should ever be the aim, though)

That would be pretty difficult to do in a typical American house.
I bet the vast majority aren't close to a 277 volt circuit.
American farms have three phase 480 for irrigation and possibly
grain drying. The irrigation ones are typically a long ways from a
house and supplied with an individual meter.
Grain drying is often supplied with electricity to run the fans and
propane or natural gas to supply the heat. I don't work with those so
can't say what the electrical supply would be. Three phase 240 is a
possibility. That would run the larger fans and still allow power for
the house.

In article ,
Clare Snyder wrote:

Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender




Clowns will do what clowns will do.

I'm Guilty as charged!

But the outlet adapter I referred to was like one several items down on
that page: "GE 6 Outlet Wall Plug Adapter Power Strip, Extra Wide
Spaced Outlets for Cell Phone Charger, Power Adapter, 3 Prong, Multi
Outlet Wall Charger, Quick & Easy Install, For Home Office, Home
Theater, Kitchen, or Bathroom, UL Listed, White, 50759".

This adapter replaces the original cover plate from a common dual
outlet. It is held in place with a central screw. Several other
slightly different configurations are also available. They are commonly
found in hardware stores.

If these adapters are illegal, I was not aware of it.

Fred

On Sun, 19 Jul 2020 15:59:33 -0500, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 7/19/20 10:46 AM, wrote:
On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 9:05PM, UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

People do stuff like that and wire up outlets to 277 lighting voltage every year. But,UL laboratories expect that from the peanut gallery, so these devices and other hardware (both hardwired or plug-in) can usually take the abuse of the wrong voltage/current/ wiring combo.
(not that that should ever be the aim, though)

That would be pretty difficult to do in a typical American house.
I bet the vast majority aren't close to a 277 volt circuit.
American farms have three phase 480 for irrigation and possibly
grain drying. The irrigation ones are typically a long ways from a
house and supplied with an individual meter.
Grain drying is often supplied with electricity to run the fans and
propane or natural gas to supply the heat. I don't work with those so
can't say what the electrical supply would be. Three phase 240 is a
possibility. That would run the larger fans and still allow power for
the house.

That is a place where you are likely to see center tapped delta. The
small red leg transformer gives them 3p 240 and the big transformer
provides the single phase 120/240. The PoCo gets away with 2
transformers.