I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.

On Mon, 6 Jul 2020 15:46:37 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.

Properly made up, wire nuts are as good as anything out there. Like
most things poor workmanship is the enemy of reliability.

Was this aluminum wire? That is usually why you use Alumicons.

A lot of people seem to like Wagos but it is basically the same as a
back stabber.

In article ,
says...
Properly made up, wire nuts are as good as anything out there. Like
most things poor workmanship is the enemy of reliability.

Was this aluminum wire? That is usually why you use Alumicons.

A lot of people seem to like Wagos but it is basically the same as a
back stabber.



The Wagos push ins are ok for things like lights that do not draw much
current.

There are Walnuts or often called leaver nuts that I like better.

Where I worked we used thousands of wire nuts. If they are installed
correctly they work fine.

On 7/6/20 5:46 PM, TimR wrote:
I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.

I repair center pivot irrigation systems. Regular yellow wire
nuts have been used to wire the motors since day one. They work fine if
the basic rule of open end down is followed.
Day one is back in the later 1970s when they began to be popular in
Nebraska.

On Tue, 7 Jul 2020 05:21:57 -0500, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 7/6/20 5:46 PM, TimR wrote:
I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.

I repair center pivot irrigation systems. Regular yellow wire
nuts have been used to wire the motors since day one. They work fine if
the basic rule of open end down is followed.
Day one is back in the later 1970s when they began to be popular in
Nebraska.

I have had yellow wire nuts on the Nav lights on my salt water boat
for over 30 years. It was originally just a temporary thing. When they
fail I will do something better.
Note, I do have the splices in a 3R box.

On Monday, July 6, 2020 at 5:46:40 PM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.

This is my preference.

I prefer to solder all my wires and then use shrink tubing.

It makes for a very strong joint.

Andy

On 7/6/20 6:46 PM, TimR wrote:
I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.


Refrigeration equipment using R290 (propane) can't use wire nuts splices.Â* Wago lever lock splices are the preferred choice.

https://www.continentalrefrigerator..../SM-R290.pdfÂ* (scroll to page 17)

https://youtu.be/RL77WBL32dY?t=66

Factory job within a hermetically sealed unit, yes.

On Wednesday, July 8, 2020 at 6:49:54 AM UTC-4, Sparky wrote:
On 7/6/20 6:46 PM, TimR wrote:
I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.


Refrigeration equipment using R290 (propane) can't use wire nuts splices.Â* Wago lever lock splices are the preferred choice.

https://www.continentalrefrigerator..../SM-R290.pdfÂ* (scroll to page 17)

https://youtu.be/RL77WBL32dY?t=66


That must be an extremely small occurrence, unless I'm missing something.
Propane in refrigeration eqpt? That must have ended a long time ago, no?

On Wednesday, July 8, 2020 at 6:49:54 AM UTC-4, Sparky wrote:
Refrigeration equipment using R290 (propane) can't use wire nuts splices.Â* Wago lever lock splices are the preferred choice.

https://www.continentalrefrigerator..../SM-R290.pdfÂ* (scroll to page 17)

https://youtu.be/RL77WBL32dY?t=66

I hadn't seen those before. where do you get them?

In article ,
says...

On Wednesday, July 8, 2020 at 6:49:54 AM UTC-4, Sparky wrote:
Refrigeration equipment using R290 (propane) can't use wire nuts splices.* Wago lever lock splices are the preferred choice.

https://www.continentalrefrigerator....f/SM-R290.pdf* (scroll to page 17)

https://youtu.be/RL77WBL32dY?t=66

I hadn't seen those before. where do you get them?



Amazon has them for less than $ 15 for 50 of them. You can get them at
any better electrical store.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=wago+leve...=3H2A85TD51O41
&sprefix=wago+l%2Caps%2C161&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_6

You can get them that will connect several numbers of wire.

On 7/6/20 5:46 PM, TimR wrote:
I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.




If you are using aluminum wiring, it's a horrible idea. It was banned in
the US due to starting fires.

Since all wiring is copper here in the US...a properly installed wire
nut is just fine.

trader_4 writes:
On Wednesday, July 8, 2020 at 6:49:54 AM UTC-4, Sparky wrote:
On 7/6/20 6:46 PM, TimR wrote:



That must be an extremely small occurrence, unless I'm missing something.
Propane in refrigeration eqpt? That must have ended a long time ago, no?



https://bensdiscountsupply.com/propane-refrigerator/

On Wednesday, July 8, 2020 at 11:54:26 AM UTC-4, philo wrote:

Since all wiring is copper here in the US...a properly installed wire
nut is just fine.

I agree.

I guess the reservation I have is over "properly installed." Give an amateur DIYer 3 pieces of soft stranded 14 ga on a table with good light, the right size wire nut, and a beer, and that will probably happen. Put him on a ladder in a crowded junction box with solid 12 in 95 F heat, using a headlamp cause it's dark after you kill the power, like I was this week, and maybe the odds go down.

What I wonder is if some of the other systems are inherently easier to do right, or at least tell if you didn't. That lever lock looks pretty good. I also suspect any system that requires twisting the wires leaves room for one to slip loose.

philo writes:
On 7/6/20 5:46 PM, TimR wrote:
I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.




If you are using aluminum wiring, it's a horrible idea. It was banned in
the US due to starting fires.

Actually, _properly wired_, Al wiring is just as safe as Cu.

The main issue is related to the fact that thermal expansion is greater
in Al when compared with Cu, so if connections aren't properly done, the
thermal expansion of the conductor will cause the connection point to
loosen, which increases the resistance, which generates more heat, which
can, in some cases, lead to fire.

There are additional issues related to interconnecting Al and Cu
conductors causing corrosion (hence higher resistance) due to
chemical reactions between the dissimilar metals (hence the
invention of the bimetalic split bolt for larger AWGsn and
Alumiconn et alia connectors for smaller AWG and anti-oxidant
grease for bi-metal splices).

Given that unqualified homeowners often try to do their own wiring
and don't have the knowledge to choose the correct device for the
application (e.g. AL-rated receptacles) or to torque the connections
properly, it seemed safer to just ban
AL for standard residential applications (and copper prices had fallen,
the rise in which had led to the use of Al in the first place).


Since all wiring is copper here in the US...a properly installed wire
nut is just fine.

That's incorrect. My former neighborhood in california is all Al (as were many
subdivisions and individual homes built in the late 60's through the mid 70's in
the United States).

On 7/8/2020 9:39 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, July 8, 2020 at 6:49:54 AM UTC-4, Sparky wrote:
On 7/6/20 6:46 PM, TimR wrote:
I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.

Refrigeration equipment using R290 (propane) can't use wire nuts splices.Â* Wago lever lock splices are the preferred choice.

https://www.continentalrefrigerator..../SM-R290.pdfÂ* (scroll to page 17)

https://youtu.be/RL77WBL32dY?t=66

That must be an extremely small occurrence, unless I'm missing something.
Propane in refrigeration eqpt? That must have ended a long time ago, no?



Yah, we'll see if it makes a comeback.Â* It would be a near perfect refrigerant if it wasn't so explosive.

On 7/8/2020 10:54 AM, philo wrote:
....

If you are using aluminum wiring, it's a horrible idea. It was banned in
the US due to starting fires.

Since all wiring is copper here in the US...a properly installed wire
nut is just fine.

2017 Code Language:

110.5 Conductors. Conductors normally used to carry current shall be of
copper or aluminum unless otherwise provided in this Code. Where the
conductor material is not specified, the sizes given in this Code shall
apply to copper conductors. Where other materials are used, the size
shall be changed accordingly.

Informational Note: For copper-clad aluminum conductors, see 310.15.

AA-8000 Al alloy has been approved by NEC since 1987.

W/ Cu prices having remained relatively low and (mostly) stable, Al for
branch circuits isn't all that common, but it is within NEC to use.
Whether local jurisdictions have caught up and reverted or not is
another question.

--

Aluminum wire has been allowed for indoor use since 1946. Per code, the 2017 NEC book covers it's use in section 110.5 titled 'Aluminum wiring'. You have to use alloy or nolox during splicing/connections with copper.

On Wed, 8 Jul 2020 10:54:22 -0500, philo wrote:

On 7/6/20 5:46 PM, TimR wrote:
I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.




If you are using aluminum wiring, it's a horrible idea. It was banned in
the US due to starting fires.

Since all wiring is copper here in the US...a properly installed wire
nut is just fine.

Aluminum wire was never banned. They just changed the alloy from the
old bad 1530 (originally designed and still used for overhead spans)
to the AA-8000 for #8 - #12 conductors.
By the time they had fixed the problem, the reputation was destroyed
and you don't see it but I could wire a house today with AA-8000 wire.
(using CO/ALr devices). Several years ago Alcan was running a road
show trying to rehabilitate aluminum but nobody bit. I do have some
samples of both alloys from that pitch and the new wire is as tough as
copper. The other stuff would break if you bent it a few times.
I would warn anyone with aluminum in their house from the late 60s and
early 70s, not to screw with it.
Most of the problems were caused by workmanship related things. If
your house didn't burn down in the 70s, it probably won't if you don't
screw with the wiring.

On Wed, 8 Jul 2020 12:51:03 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Aluminum wire has been allowed for indoor use since 1946. Per code, the 2017 NEC book covers it's use in section 110.5 titled 'Aluminum wiring'. You have to use alloy or nolox during splicing/connections with copper.

You mean this

110.5 Conductors. Conductors normally used to carry current
shall be of copper or aluminum unless otherwise provided in
this Code. Where the conductor material is not specified, the
sizes given in this Code shall apply to copper conductors. Where
other materials are used, the size shall be changed accordingly.
Informational Note: For copper-clad aluminum conductors, see
310.15.

The use of anti-oxidant paste is pretty much up to the installer. Some
manufacturers recommend using it on their lugs but none require it as
part of the listing and the NEC is silent on the issue.
The strange thing is most lugs are aluminum and actually perform
better with aluminum wire than copper, goo or not.

On Wednesday, July 8, 2020 at 8:58:16 PM UTC-4, wrote:
The use of anti-oxidant paste is pretty much up to the installer. Some
manufacturers recommend using it on their lugs but none require it as
part of the listing and the NEC is silent on the issue.
The strange thing is most lugs are aluminum and actually perform
better with aluminum wire than copper, goo or not.

Just to add, the Alumiconn connectors I used came filled with the paste. You can't avoid using it.

In article ,
says...
copper. The other stuff would break if you bent it a few times.
I would warn anyone with aluminum in their house from the late 60s and
early 70s, not to screw with it.
Most of the problems were caused by workmanship related things. If
your house didn't burn down in the 70s, it probably won't if you don't
screw with the wiring.




I lived in a house built around 1965. It had aluminum wiring. There
were about 10 houses built along the road all about the same at the same
time. Around 1990 one of the houses caught on fire. I do not know if
it was traced to the wiring or something else.

In article ,
says...
copper. The other stuff would break if you bent it a few times.
I would warn anyone with aluminum in their house from the late 60s and
early 70s, not to screw with it.
Most of the problems were caused by workmanship related things. If
your house didn't burn down in the 70s, it probably won't if you don't
screw with the wiring.




I lived in a house built around 1965. It had aluminum wiring. There
were about 10 houses built along the road all about the same at the same
time. Around 1990 one of the houses caught on fire. I do not know if
it was traced to the wiring or something else.

In article ,
says...
copper. The other stuff would break if you bent it a few times.
I would warn anyone with aluminum in their house from the late 60s and
early 70s, not to screw with it.
Most of the problems were caused by workmanship related things. If
your house didn't burn down in the 70s, it probably won't if you don't
screw with the wiring.




I lived in a house built around 1965. It had aluminum wiring. There
were about 10 houses built along the road all about the same at the same
time. Around 1990 one of the houses caught on fire. I do not know if
it was traced to the wiring or something else.

In article ,
says...
copper. The other stuff would break if you bent it a few times.
I would warn anyone with aluminum in their house from the late 60s and
early 70s, not to screw with it.
Most of the problems were caused by workmanship related things. If
your house didn't burn down in the 70s, it probably won't if you don't
screw with the wiring.




I lived in a house built around 1965. It had aluminum wiring. There
were about 10 houses built along the road all about the same at the same
time. Around 1990 one of the houses caught on fire. I do not know if
it was traced to the wiring or something else.

On Thu, 9 Jul 2020 10:11:28 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...
copper. The other stuff would break if you bent it a few times.
I would warn anyone with aluminum in their house from the late 60s and
early 70s, not to screw with it.
Most of the problems were caused by workmanship related things. If
your house didn't burn down in the 70s, it probably won't if you don't
screw with the wiring.




I lived in a house built around 1965. It had aluminum wiring. There
were about 10 houses built along the road all about the same at the same
time. Around 1990 one of the houses caught on fire. I do not know if
it was traced to the wiring or something else.

Usually aluminum wiring problems gave plenty of warning, if people
were looking. The guys I have talked to who did mitigation and repairs
say these are usually after someone altered the initial install
assuming you didn't have problems right away. This wire is very
brittle and pulling out devices to "check them" may cause a problem
you didn't have. If you do have one out, it should be replaced with a
CO/ALr.

On Thu, 9 Jul 2020 10:11:28 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...
copper. The other stuff would break if you bent it a few times.
I would warn anyone with aluminum in their house from the late 60s and
early 70s, not to screw with it.
Most of the problems were caused by workmanship related things. If
your house didn't burn down in the 70s, it probably won't if you don't
screw with the wiring.




I lived in a house built around 1965. It had aluminum wiring. There
were about 10 houses built along the road all about the same at the same
time. Around 1990 one of the houses caught on fire. I do not know if
it was traced to the wiring or something else.

Usually aluminum wiring problems gave plenty of warning, if people
were looking. The guys I have talked to who did mitigation and repairs
say these are usually after someone altered the initial install
assuming you didn't have problems right away. This wire is very
brittle and pulling out devices to "check them" may cause a problem
you didn't have. If you do have one out, it should be replaced with a
CO/ALr.

On Thu, 9 Jul 2020 10:11:28 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...
copper. The other stuff would break if you bent it a few times.
I would warn anyone with aluminum in their house from the late 60s and
early 70s, not to screw with it.
Most of the problems were caused by workmanship related things. If
your house didn't burn down in the 70s, it probably won't if you don't
screw with the wiring.




I lived in a house built around 1965. It had aluminum wiring. There
were about 10 houses built along the road all about the same at the same
time. Around 1990 one of the houses caught on fire. I do not know if
it was traced to the wiring or something else.

Usually aluminum wiring problems gave plenty of warning, if people
were looking. The guys I have talked to who did mitigation and repairs
say these are usually after someone altered the initial install
assuming you didn't have problems right away. This wire is very
brittle and pulling out devices to "check them" may cause a problem
you didn't have. If you do have one out, it should be replaced with a
CO/ALr.

On Thu, 9 Jul 2020 10:11:28 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...
copper. The other stuff would break if you bent it a few times.
I would warn anyone with aluminum in their house from the late 60s and
early 70s, not to screw with it.
Most of the problems were caused by workmanship related things. If
your house didn't burn down in the 70s, it probably won't if you don't
screw with the wiring.




I lived in a house built around 1965. It had aluminum wiring. There
were about 10 houses built along the road all about the same at the same
time. Around 1990 one of the houses caught on fire. I do not know if
it was traced to the wiring or something else.

Usually aluminum wiring problems gave plenty of warning, if people
were looking. The guys I have talked to who did mitigation and repairs
say these are usually after someone altered the initial install
assuming you didn't have problems right away. This wire is very
brittle and pulling out devices to "check them" may cause a problem
you didn't have. If you do have one out, it should be replaced with a
CO/ALr.

On Mon, 06 Jul 2020 20:35:20 -0400, posted
for all of us to digest...


On Mon, 6 Jul 2020 15:46:37 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times
as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.

Properly made up, wire nuts are as good as anything out there. Like
most things poor workmanship is the enemy of reliability.

Was this aluminum wire? That is usually why you use Alumicons.

A lot of people seem to like Wagos but it is basically the same as a
back stabber.

Even the lever nuts? I asked Wago 20 years ago for a few
samples I wanted to try. I unded up with two bags of 100 each!
They are great with people for carpel tunnel syndrome - no
twisting your wrist - worked for my tests. Ideal has something
like the stabber ones but I don't think they ever caught on
around here, like the Wagos. If I can find them I will donate
them to the vo-tech school near me.

--
Tekkie

On Mon, 06 Jul 2020 20:35:20 -0400, posted
for all of us to digest...


On Mon, 6 Jul 2020 15:46:37 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times
as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.

Properly made up, wire nuts are as good as anything out there. Like
most things poor workmanship is the enemy of reliability.

Was this aluminum wire? That is usually why you use Alumicons.

A lot of people seem to like Wagos but it is basically the same as a
back stabber.

Even the lever nuts? I asked Wago 20 years ago for a few
samples I wanted to try. I unded up with two bags of 100 each!
They are great with people for carpel tunnel syndrome - no
twisting your wrist - worked for my tests. Ideal has something
like the stabber ones but I don't think they ever caught on
around here, like the Wagos. If I can find them I will donate
them to the vo-tech school near me.

--
Tekkie

On Mon, 06 Jul 2020 20:35:20 -0400, posted
for all of us to digest...


On Mon, 6 Jul 2020 15:46:37 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times
as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.

Properly made up, wire nuts are as good as anything out there. Like
most things poor workmanship is the enemy of reliability.

Was this aluminum wire? That is usually why you use Alumicons.

A lot of people seem to like Wagos but it is basically the same as a
back stabber.

Even the lever nuts? I asked Wago 20 years ago for a few
samples I wanted to try. I unded up with two bags of 100 each!
They are great with people for carpel tunnel syndrome - no
twisting your wrist - worked for my tests. Ideal has something
like the stabber ones but I don't think they ever caught on
around here, like the Wagos. If I can find them I will donate
them to the vo-tech school near me.

--
Tekkie

On Mon, 06 Jul 2020 20:35:20 -0400, posted
for all of us to digest...


On Mon, 6 Jul 2020 15:46:37 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work. They're very secure. they cost $3.50 each instead of 9 cents. They don't save any space in the box; actually they take more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere. And while on the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a ceiling box it was a different story. I had a heck of a time getting everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be stripped to precisely 5/16 inch. It took at least 5 times
as long as to wire nut them, maybe more. Of course you'd get faster with practice. But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover. So of course the one I bought didn't fit.

Properly made up, wire nuts are as good as anything out there. Like
most things poor workmanship is the enemy of reliability.

Was this aluminum wire? That is usually why you use Alumicons.

A lot of people seem to like Wagos but it is basically the same as a
back stabber.

Even the lever nuts? I asked Wago 20 years ago for a few
samples I wanted to try. I unded up with two bags of 100 each!
They are great with people for carpel tunnel syndrome - no
twisting your wrist - worked for my tests. Ideal has something
like the stabber ones but I don't think they ever caught on
around here, like the Wagos. If I can find them I will donate
them to the vo-tech school near me.

--
Tekkie

In article , says...

A lot of people seem to like Wagos but it is basically the same as a
back stabber.

Even the lever nuts? I asked Wago 20 years ago for a few
samples I wanted to try. I unded up with two bags of 100 each!
They are great with people for carpel tunnel syndrome - no
twisting your wrist - worked for my tests. Ideal has something
like the stabber ones but I don't think they ever caught on
around here, like the Wagos. If I can find them I will donate
them to the vo-tech school near me.




There are several kinds of Wagos. One is the lever nut type.

Another is the Wal-nut. That is just a push in similar to the back stab
recepticals. I would only use those on some lighting fixtuers and to
replace ballasts in the old flourescent tubes.

In article , says...

A lot of people seem to like Wagos but it is basically the same as a
back stabber.

Even the lever nuts? I asked Wago 20 years ago for a few
samples I wanted to try. I unded up with two bags of 100 each!
They are great with people for carpel tunnel syndrome - no
twisting your wrist - worked for my tests. Ideal has something
like the stabber ones but I don't think they ever caught on
around here, like the Wagos. If I can find them I will donate
them to the vo-tech school near me.




There are several kinds of Wagos. One is the lever nut type.

Another is the Wal-nut. That is just a push in similar to the back stab
recepticals. I would only use those on some lighting fixtuers and to
replace ballasts in the old flourescent tubes.

In article , says...

A lot of people seem to like Wagos but it is basically the same as a
back stabber.

Even the lever nuts? I asked Wago 20 years ago for a few
samples I wanted to try. I unded up with two bags of 100 each!
They are great with people for carpel tunnel syndrome - no
twisting your wrist - worked for my tests. Ideal has something
like the stabber ones but I don't think they ever caught on
around here, like the Wagos. If I can find them I will donate
them to the vo-tech school near me.




There are several kinds of Wagos. One is the lever nut type.

Another is the Wal-nut. That is just a push in similar to the back stab
recepticals. I would only use those on some lighting fixtuers and to
replace ballasts in the old flourescent tubes.

In article , says...

A lot of people seem to like Wagos but it is basically the same as a
back stabber.

Even the lever nuts? I asked Wago 20 years ago for a few
samples I wanted to try. I unded up with two bags of 100 each!
They are great with people for carpel tunnel syndrome - no
twisting your wrist - worked for my tests. Ideal has something
like the stabber ones but I don't think they ever caught on
around here, like the Wagos. If I can find them I will donate
them to the vo-tech school near me.




There are several kinds of Wagos. One is the lever nut type.

Another is the Wal-nut. That is just a push in similar to the back stab
recepticals. I would only use those on some lighting fixtuers and to
replace ballasts in the old flourescent tubes.

On Thu, 9 Jul 2020 17:25:46 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article , says...

A lot of people seem to like Wagos but it is basically the same as a
back stabber.

Even the lever nuts? I asked Wago 20 years ago for a few
samples I wanted to try. I unded up with two bags of 100 each!
They are great with people for carpel tunnel syndrome - no
twisting your wrist - worked for my tests. Ideal has something
like the stabber ones but I don't think they ever caught on
around here, like the Wagos. If I can find them I will donate
them to the vo-tech school near me.




There are several kinds of Wagos. One is the lever nut type.

Another is the Wal-nut. That is just a push in similar to the back stab
recepticals. I would only use those on some lighting fixtuers and to
replace ballasts in the old flourescent tubes.


The code has required a quick disconnect on ballasts for several
cycles to avoid splicing wires.

On 7/8/20 10:54 AM, philo wrote:
On 7/6/20 5:46 PM, TimR wrote:
I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always
thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more
secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using
Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work.Â* They're very secure.Â* they cost $3.50 each instead
of 9 cents.Â* They don't save any space in the box; actually they take
more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere.Â* And while on
the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a
ceiling box it was a different story.Â* I had a heck of a time getting
everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be
stripped to precisely 5/16 inch.Â* It took at least 5 times as long as
to wire nut them, maybe more.Â* Of course you'd get faster with
practice.Â* But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much
time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover.Â* So of course the
one I bought didn't fit.




If you are using aluminum wiring, it's a horrible idea. It was banned in
the US due to starting fires.

Since all wiring is copper here in the US...a properly installed wire
nut is just fine.




One other reason not to use aluminum.


When I was working, I repaired industrial battery chargers that could
deliver 100- 300 amps


One of the manufacturers switched to aluminum windings for a few years
but went back to copper.


If a connection does get hot, with a copper wire, one only need to cut
back the wire a little bit and clean it with fine sandpaper.


With aluminum, that never worked,

On Fri, 10 Jul 2020 10:58:39 -0500, philo wrote:

On 7/8/20 10:54 AM, philo wrote:
On 7/6/20 5:46 PM, TimR wrote:
I've lived in Europe where wire nuts are prohibited, and always
thought a screw terminal, chocolate block, etc., was probably more
secure.

Today I experimented, wiring a new light in my shed and using
Alumiconns instead of wire nuts.

Well, they work.Â* They're very secure.Â* they cost $3.50 each instead
of 9 cents.Â* They don't save any space in the box; actually they take
more, because they have to be oriented to not interfere.Â* And while on
the bench they look dead easy to install, up on a ladder inside a
ceiling box it was a different story.Â* I had a heck of a time getting
everything lined up just right with stiff solid wire that had to be
stripped to precisely 5/16 inch.Â* It took at least 5 times as long as
to wire nut them, maybe more.Â* Of course you'd get faster with
practice.Â* But I don't think anyone could afford to lose that much
time in a production setting.

I vaguely remembered the box was missing a cover.Â* So of course the
one I bought didn't fit.




If you are using aluminum wiring, it's a horrible idea. It was banned in
the US due to starting fires.

Since all wiring is copper here in the US...a properly installed wire
nut is just fine.




One other reason not to use aluminum.


When I was working, I repaired industrial battery chargers that could
deliver 100- 300 amps


One of the manufacturers switched to aluminum windings for a few years
but went back to copper.


If a connection does get hot, with a copper wire, one only need to cut
back the wire a little bit and clean it with fine sandpaper.


With aluminum, that never worked,

Copper is certainly a superior material but it costs more. Silver
works better than copper in most cases but that ugly price thing
raises it's head. That is why coins are not copper or silver anymore.
A silver dime is worth about $1.35