Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the
ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether
symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns
out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new
cylinder this afternoon.

Works quite well but the annoyance factor is quite high in the doing it
phase with the fact GM didn't split the top/bottom halves of the cover
around the switch until at least '99 as the earliest--this thing has to
be prized off over the key cylinder in place which is no treat. Plus,
there's a two-piece stud holding the top LH side in place that turns but
doesn't release that a video shows was replaced by a long single
fastener later as well...

But, aggravation aside, can report is done and thanks! for the
diagnostic info so knew which way to go. Don't recall having had
another wear to this extent to being such a pain altho have had many
vehicles far older than this...dunno why this one was so hard. A couple
times in town wasn't sure was ever going to get it to turn -- about 2-3
full minutes of messing around was finally the straw to send me to NAPA
last week!

--

In article , says...

Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the
ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether
symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns
out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new
cylinder this afternoon.



I don't recall the years, but wasn't GM having a lot of switch problems
?

One cause was that people had many keys and things on the same key ring
as the ignition switch.

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 17:40:19 -0500, dpb wrote:

Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the
ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether
symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns
out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new
cylinder this afternoon.

Works quite well but the annoyance factor is quite high in the doing it
phase with the fact GM didn't split the top/bottom halves of the cover
around the switch until at least '99 as the earliest--this thing has to
be prized off over the key cylinder in place which is no treat. Plus,
there's a two-piece stud holding the top LH side in place that turns but
doesn't release that a video shows was replaced by a long single
fastener later as well...

But, aggravation aside, can report is done and thanks! for the
diagnostic info so knew which way to go. Don't recall having had
another wear to this extent to being such a pain altho have had many
vehicles far older than this...dunno why this one was so hard. A couple
times in town wasn't sure was ever going to get it to turn -- about 2-3
full minutes of messing around was finally the straw to send me to NAPA
last week!


In my limited un-expert experience - Saturn had a lot of
problems with sloppy ignition / key . very early on - and for
several years ..
My wife's 2013 Jetta has displayed sticky ignition key
problems for quite a while - now at ~ 200 k km .
One thing that was mentioned as a possible cause -
- heavy key-ring stuff -
And parking with the steering wheel cocked so you need
to force the key ...
John T.

On 8/25/2019 6:15 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 17:40:19 -0500, dpb wrote:

Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the
ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether
symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns
out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new
cylinder this afternoon.

Works quite well but the annoyance factor is quite high in the doing it
phase with the fact GM didn't split the top/bottom halves of the cover
around the switch until at least '99 as the earliest--this thing has to
be prized off over the key cylinder in place which is no treat. Plus,
there's a two-piece stud holding the top LH side in place that turns but
doesn't release that a video shows was replaced by a long single
fastener later as well...

But, aggravation aside, can report is done and thanks! for the
diagnostic info so knew which way to go. Don't recall having had
another wear to this extent to being such a pain altho have had many
vehicles far older than this...dunno why this one was so hard. A couple
times in town wasn't sure was ever going to get it to turn -- about 2-3
full minutes of messing around was finally the straw to send me to NAPA
last week!

In my limited un-expert experience - Saturn had a lot of
problems with sloppy ignition / key . very early on - and for
several years ..
My wife's 2013 Jetta has displayed sticky ignition key
problems for quite a while - now at ~ 200 k km .
One thing that was mentioned as a possible cause -
- heavy key-ring stuff -
And parking with the steering wheel cocked so you need
to force the key ...
John T.


Â* The proper thing to do in the case of steering wheel tension is to
turn the wheel to take the tension off before you turn the key . Duh .
That said , my daughter used to have a '99 (IIRC) Camaro (Firebird ?)
that kept having problems removing the key . It was finally traced back
to her spilling sodas on theÂ* console . Those sodas gummed up the
shifter/ignition interlock cable to the point it was basically frozen in
position . Cleaned that up and the problem disappeared .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

In my limited un-expert experience - Saturn had a lot of
problems with sloppy ignition / key . very early on - and for
several years ..
My wife's 2013 Jetta has displayed sticky ignition key
problems for quite a while - now at ~ 200 k km .
One thing that was mentioned as a possible cause -
- heavy key-ring stuff -
And parking with the steering wheel cocked so you need
to force the key ...
John T.


* The proper thing to do in the case of steering wheel tension is to
turn the wheel to take the tension off before you turn the key . Duh .


Yep - fur shur - but that doesn't explain why the
old Saturn and the Jetta have this problem - but -
our 4 Taurus and the Olds and F100 and Kia didn't ..
.... same drivers .. etc.
The Saturns were famous - you could start it up and
pull out the key while it was still running ..
John T.

In article ,
says...

Yep - fur shur - but that doesn't explain why the
old Saturn and the Jetta have this problem - but -
our 4 Taurus and the Olds and F100 and Kia didn't ..
... same drivers .. etc.
The Saturns were famous - you could start it up and
pull out the key while it was still running ..



At one time you could pull the key out of seveal cars with it running.
Dad had a 1950 Chevy that you could pull the key out with the switch in
one position and then turn the switch on and you had to push a buttonon
the dash to start it.. Now you have to hav a FOB to do about the same
thing.

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 19:13:26 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:

In article , says...

Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the
ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether
symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns
out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new
cylinder this afternoon.



I don't recall the years, but wasn't GM having a lot of switch problems
?

I get a recall notice every few months for my 2003 Impala. Supposed to be for the ignition
switch. As I recall it was for heavy key rings wearing out the switch.
Don't have a heavy key ring, and have no problem.

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 17:40:19 -0500, dpb wrote:

Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the
ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether
symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns
out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new
cylinder this afternoon.

Works quite well but the annoyance factor is quite high in the doing it
phase with the fact GM didn't split the top/bottom halves of the cover
around the switch until at least '99 as the earliest--this thing has to
be prized off over the key cylinder in place which is no treat. Plus,
there's a two-piece stud holding the top LH side in place that turns but
doesn't release that a video shows was replaced by a long single
fastener later as well...

But, aggravation aside, can report is done and thanks! for the
diagnostic info so knew which way to go. Don't recall having had
another wear to this extent to being such a pain altho have had many
vehicles far older than this...dunno why this one was so hard. A couple
times in town wasn't sure was ever going to get it to turn -- about 2-3
full minutes of messing around was finally the straw to send me to NAPA
last week!
GM has had an issue with this for decades It is made much worse when
you have a heavy ring of keys hanging from the cyl.

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 20:24:11 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

Yep - fur shur - but that doesn't explain why the
old Saturn and the Jetta have this problem - but -
our 4 Taurus and the Olds and F100 and Kia didn't ..
... same drivers .. etc.
The Saturns were famous - you could start it up and
pull out the key while it was still running ..



At one time you could pull the key out of seveal cars with it running.
Dad had a 1950 Chevy that you could pull the key out with the switch in
one position and then turn the switch on and you had to push a buttonon
the dash to start it.. Now you have to hav a FOB to do about the same
thing.
A lot of OLD chevies had that
feature". You could remove the key and still sdtart or shut off the
car - as long as it was not in the "lock" position - where a key was
required. Identifying these was easy - the key fit into a slot in
what was basically a "knob" that could be turnrd with your fingers.

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 17:40:19 -0500, dpb wrote:

Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the
ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether
symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns
out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new
cylinder this afternoon.

Works quite well but the annoyance factor is quite high in the doing it
phase with the fact GM didn't split the top/bottom halves of the cover
around the switch until at least '99 as the earliest--this thing has to
be prized off over the key cylinder in place which is no treat. Plus,
there's a two-piece stud holding the top LH side in place that turns but
doesn't release that a video shows was replaced by a long single
fastener later as well...

But, aggravation aside, can report is done and thanks! for the
diagnostic info so knew which way to go. Don't recall having had
another wear to this extent to being such a pain altho have had many
vehicles far older than this...dunno why this one was so hard. A couple
times in town wasn't sure was ever going to get it to turn -- about 2-3
full minutes of messing around was finally the straw to send me to NAPA
last week!

You are lucky, on my 69 Corvette, you needed to remove the steering
wheel and these days that involves the air bag, not something you want
to be screwing with.
I also took the new one to a locksmith and had it keyed to my original
key so the door and ignition were the same.
I was having problems with my honda and I went to the dealer and had a
new key cut from the spec, not copying the blank. It worked a whole
lot better. My old key just seemed to be worn. The more I used it the
better it got and now it is like silk again.

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 20:24:11 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

Yep - fur shur - but that doesn't explain why the
old Saturn and the Jetta have this problem - but -
our 4 Taurus and the Olds and F100 and Kia didn't ..
... same drivers .. etc.
The Saturns were famous - you could start it up and
pull out the key while it was still running ..



At one time you could pull the key out of seveal cars with it running.
Dad had a 1950 Chevy that you could pull the key out with the switch in
one position and then turn the switch on and you had to push a buttonon
the dash to start it.. Now you have to hav a FOB to do about the same
thing.

The mid 50s GM had a lock and an unlocked position on the ignition.
(My dad's 56 Chevy) It was lock, unlocked and start. You could pull
the key out in the unlocked position and run the car normally without
a key. The government or the insurance companies made that go away.
Late 60's Chryslers had a hole in the lock cylinder you could stick a
paper clip in and pull the cylinder with it locked. Then anything
would turn the doodad inside. When my buddy lost the key to his 68 van
at the beach, I popped the cylinder, knocked all the wafers out and
reinstalled it. Any key would work after that.

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 19:58:10 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 19:13:26 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:

In article , says...

Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the
ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether
symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns
out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new
cylinder this afternoon.



I don't recall the years, but wasn't GM having a lot of switch problems
?

I get a recall notice every few months for my 2003 Impala. Supposed to be for the ignition
switch. As I recall it was for heavy key rings wearing out the switch.
Don't have a heavy key ring, and have no problem.

I think that was the recall about the car turning off because the
detent was too short and a heavy key ring would rotate the cylinder
out of "run".

On 8/25/2019 6:13 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
....

I don't recall the years, but wasn't GM having a lot of switch problems
?

One cause was that people had many keys and things on the same key ring
as the ignition switch.

I don't recall if it was GM or another, but I do recall there being some
some cases where apparently excess weight on key rings turned vehicles
off while driving.

I've had nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX Toyota
in last 50 years and never had the problem nor a recall notice for the
problem so if it was GM it was some make/model different than full-size
Chevy trucks or Chevy/Olds/Buick. Never had any smaller models so
anything different with them know nothing about.

--

On 8/25/2019 8:11 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
....

GM has had an issue with this for decades It is made much worse when
you have a heavy ring of keys hanging from the cyl.

As an earlier reply noted, I've had only GM w/ two minor exceptions for
50 years and this is the first time I've ever had one do this. The old
55 Ford is only time I recall ever having it happen and that was some
50+ yr ago now.

There's nothing on the key ring but PO box key and one house key and a
tiny one for the toolbox in the bed so there's no big ring on it...this
is, however, about the only one I've had that I haven't had since it was
either new or very nearly so--I didn't buy this one until it already had
almost 90K on it so I don't know how the prior owner may have treated
it. That could be contributing factor.

--

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 22:28:18 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 17:40:19 -0500, dpb wrote:

Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the
ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether
symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns
out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new
cylinder this afternoon.

Works quite well but the annoyance factor is quite high in the doing it
phase with the fact GM didn't split the top/bottom halves of the cover
around the switch until at least '99 as the earliest--this thing has to
be prized off over the key cylinder in place which is no treat. Plus,
there's a two-piece stud holding the top LH side in place that turns but
doesn't release that a video shows was replaced by a long single
fastener later as well...

But, aggravation aside, can report is done and thanks! for the
diagnostic info so knew which way to go. Don't recall having had
another wear to this extent to being such a pain altho have had many
vehicles far older than this...dunno why this one was so hard. A couple
times in town wasn't sure was ever going to get it to turn -- about 2-3
full minutes of messing around was finally the straw to send me to NAPA
last week!

You are lucky, on my 69 Corvette, you needed to remove the steering
wheel and these days that involves the air bag, not something you want
to be screwing with.
Thpse middle aged GM switches were a royal pain in the
you-know-where. I ended up making a plate compressor several times
over the years - and have used a 3/4" drive socket as a puller too.
I also took the new one to a locksmith and had it keyed to my original
key so the door and ignition were the same.
I was having problems with my honda and I went to the dealer and had a
new key cut from the spec, not copying the blank. It worked a whole
lot better. My old key just seemed to be worn. The more I used it the
better it got and now it is like silk again.
Cutting from code is definitrly the preferred method. Used to
"nibble" a LOT of Toyota keys 30 to 40 years ago

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 22:56:40 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 22:28:18 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 17:40:19 -0500, dpb wrote:

Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the
ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether
symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns
out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new
cylinder this afternoon.

Works quite well but the annoyance factor is quite high in the doing it
phase with the fact GM didn't split the top/bottom halves of the cover
around the switch until at least '99 as the earliest--this thing has to
be prized off over the key cylinder in place which is no treat. Plus,
there's a two-piece stud holding the top LH side in place that turns but
doesn't release that a video shows was replaced by a long single
fastener later as well...

But, aggravation aside, can report is done and thanks! for the
diagnostic info so knew which way to go. Don't recall having had
another wear to this extent to being such a pain altho have had many
vehicles far older than this...dunno why this one was so hard. A couple
times in town wasn't sure was ever going to get it to turn -- about 2-3
full minutes of messing around was finally the straw to send me to NAPA
last week!

You are lucky, on my 69 Corvette, you needed to remove the steering
wheel and these days that involves the air bag, not something you want
to be screwing with.
Thpse middle aged GM switches were a royal pain in the
you-know-where. I ended up making a plate compressor several times
over the years - and have used a 3/4" drive socket as a puller too.

The deal on the 69 Vette was once you get the wheel off and I think
one more cover, there was a little web of metal you punch out with a
screwdriver and then you can depress the locking bolt (looks like the
latch on a interior domestic lock set). The new one just pushes in.

On 8/25/2019 9:40 PM, dpb wrote:
....

I've had nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX Toyota
in last 50 years and never had the problem nor a recall notice for the
problem so if it was GM it was some make/model different than full-size
Chevy trucks or Chevy/Olds/Buick.Â* Never had any smaller models so
anything different with them know nothing about.

"...nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX Toyota..."

Which shows how little paid attention. The Honda CRX was a fun
little thing to drive the 30 mi to/from Kingston Steam Plant when the
EPRI I&C office was there...found it for about $1500 'cuz insurance had
totaled it out. The guy bought it back and did the repair himself and
still came out better. It served me well until the move back to
farm--it would _not_ have been a good dirt road vehicle at all...

--

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 22:39:41 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 19:58:10 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 19:13:26 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:

In article , says...

Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the
ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether
symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns
out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new
cylinder this afternoon.



I don't recall the years, but wasn't GM having a lot of switch problems
?

I get a recall notice every few months for my 2003 Impala. Supposed to be for the ignition
switch. As I recall it was for heavy key rings wearing out the switch.
Don't have a heavy key ring, and have no problem.

I think that was the recall about the car turning off because the
detent was too short and a heavy key ring would rotate the cylinder
out of "run".

Yes, that's it.

"dpb" wrote in message ...
On 8/25/2019 9:40 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I've had nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX Toyota
in last 50 years and never had the problem nor a recall notice for the
problem so if it was GM it was some make/model different than full-size
Chevy trucks or Chevy/Olds/Buick. Never had any smaller models so
anything different with them know nothing about.

"...nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX Toyota..."

Which shows how little paid attention. The Honda CRX was a fun
little thing to drive the 30 mi to/from Kingston Steam Plant when the
EPRI I&C office was there...found it for about $1500 'cuz insurance had
totaled it out. The guy bought it back and did the repair himself and
still came out better. It served me well until the move back to
farm--it would _not_ have been a good dirt road vehicle at all...

My Hyundai Getz does dirt roads fine.

On 8/26/2019 1:49 PM, Rod Speed wrote:


"dpb" wrote in message ...
On 8/25/2019 9:40 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I've had nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX
Toyota in last 50 years and never had the problem nor a recall notice
for the problem so if it was GM it was some make/model different than
full-size Chevy trucks or Chevy/Olds/Buick.Â* Never had any smaller
models so anything different with them know nothing about.

"...nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX Toyota..."

Which shows how little paid attention.Â* Â* The Honda CRX was a fun
little thing to drive the 30 mi to/from Kingston Steam Plant when the
EPRI I&C office was there...found it for about $1500 'cuz insurance
had totaled it out.Â* The guy bought it back and did the repair himself
and still came out better.Â* It served me well until the move back to
farm--it would _not_ have been a good dirt road vehicle at all...

My Hyundai Getz does dirt roads fine.

Dunno what that is nor what its ground clearance is..the CRX would been
ok if they always were dry and graded but stiff enough to shake your
teeth out when washboardy as are most of the time and way too low when
muddy...

--

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 00:14:33 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 22:56:40 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 22:28:18 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 17:40:19 -0500, dpb wrote:

Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the
ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether
symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns
out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new
cylinder this afternoon.

Works quite well but the annoyance factor is quite high in the doing it
phase with the fact GM didn't split the top/bottom halves of the cover
around the switch until at least '99 as the earliest--this thing has to
be prized off over the key cylinder in place which is no treat. Plus,
there's a two-piece stud holding the top LH side in place that turns but
doesn't release that a video shows was replaced by a long single
fastener later as well...

But, aggravation aside, can report is done and thanks! for the
diagnostic info so knew which way to go. Don't recall having had
another wear to this extent to being such a pain altho have had many
vehicles far older than this...dunno why this one was so hard. A couple
times in town wasn't sure was ever going to get it to turn -- about 2-3
full minutes of messing around was finally the straw to send me to NAPA
last week!

You are lucky, on my 69 Corvette, you needed to remove the steering
wheel and these days that involves the air bag, not something you want
to be screwing with.
Thpse middle aged GM switches were a royal pain in the
you-know-where. I ended up making a plate compressor several times
over the years - and have used a 3/4" drive socket as a puller too.

The deal on the 69 Vette was once you get the wheel off and I think
one more cover, there was a little web of metal you punch out with a
screwdriver and then you can depress the locking bolt (looks like the
latch on a interior domestic lock set). The new one just pushes in.
The "flash" in the die-casting was far from universal. I'd say less
than half of the ones I had to remove had the slot covered with a film
of zinc alloy - and some so thin you could ALMOST see through it.

On Tue, 27 Aug 2019 04:49:48 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


My Hyundai Getz does dirt roads fine.

Of COURSE it does, you clinically insane 85-year-old senile asshole! LOL

--
Senile Rodent about himself:
"I was involved in the design of a computer OS"
MID:

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 14:11:24 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 8/26/2019 1:49 PM, Rod Speed wrote:


"dpb" wrote in message ...
On 8/25/2019 9:40 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I've had nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX
Toyota in last 50 years and never had the problem nor a recall notice
for the problem so if it was GM it was some make/model different than
full-size Chevy trucks or Chevy/Olds/Buick.* Never had any smaller
models so anything different with them know nothing about.

"...nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX Toyota..."

Which shows how little paid attention.* * The Honda CRX was a fun
little thing to drive the 30 mi to/from Kingston Steam Plant when the
EPRI I&C office was there...found it for about $1500 'cuz insurance
had totaled it out.* The guy bought it back and did the repair himself
and still came out better.* It served me well until the move back to
farm--it would _not_ have been a good dirt road vehicle at all...

My Hyundai Getz does dirt roads fine.

Dunno what that is nor what its ground clearance is..the CRX would been
ok if they always were dry and graded but stiff enough to shake your
teeth out when washboardy as are most of the time and way too low when
muddy...


The Getz is a little ****cutter that is not sold in North America -
basically a "microcar".

"dpb" wrote in message ...
On 8/26/2019 1:49 PM, Rod Speed wrote:


"dpb" wrote in message
...
On 8/25/2019 9:40 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I've had nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX Toyota
in last 50 years and never had the problem nor a recall notice for the
problem so if it was GM it was some make/model different than full-size
Chevy trucks or Chevy/Olds/Buick. Never had any smaller models so
anything different with them know nothing about.

"...nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX Toyota..."

Which shows how little paid attention. The Honda CRX was a fun
little thing to drive the 30 mi to/from Kingston Steam Plant when the
EPRI I&C office was there...found it for about $1500 'cuz insurance had
totaled it out. The guy bought it back and did the repair himself and
still came out better. It served me well until the move back to
farm--it would _not_ have been a good dirt road vehicle at all...

My Hyundai Getz does dirt roads fine.

Dunno what that is nor what its ground clearance is..

Same as the CRX

the CRX would been ok if they always were dry and graded

The Getz is fine when whet and not graded. Never been graded either.

but stiff enough to shake your teeth out when washboardy as are most of
the time

Still works fine.

and way too low when muddy...

Bull****, and I have grounded mine a few times.

On Tue, 27 Aug 2019 05:57:37 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

Bull****, and I have grounded mine a few times.

You know what, senile Rodent? You can shove your Getz up yours like
everything else, senile asshole!

--
Norman Wells addressing senile Rot:
"Ah, the voice of scum speaks."
MID:

"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 14:11:24 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 8/26/2019 1:49 PM, Rod Speed wrote:


"dpb" wrote in message
...
On 8/25/2019 9:40 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I've had nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX
Toyota in last 50 years and never had the problem nor a recall notice
for the problem so if it was GM it was some make/model different than
full-size Chevy trucks or Chevy/Olds/Buick. Never had any smaller
models so anything different with them know nothing about.

"...nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX Toyota..."

Which shows how little paid attention. The Honda CRX was a fun
little thing to drive the 30 mi to/from Kingston Steam Plant when the
EPRI I&C office was there...found it for about $1500 'cuz insurance
had totaled it out. The guy bought it back and did the repair himself
and still came out better. It served me well until the move back to
farm--it would _not_ have been a good dirt road vehicle at all...

My Hyundai Getz does dirt roads fine.

Dunno what that is nor what its ground clearance is..the CRX would been
ok if they always were dry and graded but stiff enough to shake your
teeth out when washboardy as are most of the time and way too low when
muddy...


The Getz is a little ****cutter that is not sold in North America -
basically a "microcar".

Nope, much bigger than a microcar. It's a small hatch.

On Tue, 27 Aug 2019 06:18:29 +1000, jeikppkywk, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rodent Speed, wrote:


The Getz is a little ****cutter that is not sold in North America -
basically a "microcar".

Nope, much bigger than a microcar. It's a small hatch.

It's a little ****cutter that is not sold in North America, senile idiot!

--
about senile Rot Speed:
"This is like having a conversation with someone with brain damage."
MID:

On Tue, 27 Aug 2019 06:18:29 +1000, "jeikppkywk"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 14:11:24 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 8/26/2019 1:49 PM, Rod Speed wrote:


"dpb" wrote in message
...
On 8/25/2019 9:40 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I've had nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX
Toyota in last 50 years and never had the problem nor a recall notice
for the problem so if it was GM it was some make/model different than
full-size Chevy trucks or Chevy/Olds/Buick. Never had any smaller
models so anything different with them know nothing about.

"...nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX Toyota..."

Which shows how little paid attention. The Honda CRX was a fun
little thing to drive the 30 mi to/from Kingston Steam Plant when the
EPRI I&C office was there...found it for about $1500 'cuz insurance
had totaled it out. The guy bought it back and did the repair himself
and still came out better. It served me well until the move back to
farm--it would _not_ have been a good dirt road vehicle at all...

My Hyundai Getz does dirt roads fine.

Dunno what that is nor what its ground clearance is..the CRX would been
ok if they always were dry and graded but stiff enough to shake your
teeth out when washboardy as are most of the time and way too low when
muddy...


The Getz is a little ****cutter that is not sold in North America -
basically a "microcar".

Nope, much bigger than a microcar. It's a small hatch.
About the same size as the current Nissan Micra Versa or the old Geo
Metro. In Noth America that's "Micro" - or small sub-compact. Actually
it is about 20KG lighter than theMicra, 180mm narrower, about 70MM
higher, and the wheelbase is about 25mm shorter. Overall it's al;most
100mm shorter (2008 to 2008 comparison)
It's a meter longer than a Toyota IQ and about the same hight and
width, and about 150KG heavier. The IQ is Toyota's answer to the
Smart.

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 15:45:39 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 00:14:33 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 22:56:40 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 22:28:18 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 17:40:19 -0500, dpb wrote:

Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the
ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether
symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns
out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new
cylinder this afternoon.

Works quite well but the annoyance factor is quite high in the doing it
phase with the fact GM didn't split the top/bottom halves of the cover
around the switch until at least '99 as the earliest--this thing has to
be prized off over the key cylinder in place which is no treat. Plus,
there's a two-piece stud holding the top LH side in place that turns but
doesn't release that a video shows was replaced by a long single
fastener later as well...

But, aggravation aside, can report is done and thanks! for the
diagnostic info so knew which way to go. Don't recall having had
another wear to this extent to being such a pain altho have had many
vehicles far older than this...dunno why this one was so hard. A couple
times in town wasn't sure was ever going to get it to turn -- about 2-3
full minutes of messing around was finally the straw to send me to NAPA
last week!

You are lucky, on my 69 Corvette, you needed to remove the steering
wheel and these days that involves the air bag, not something you want
to be screwing with.
Thpse middle aged GM switches were a royal pain in the
you-know-where. I ended up making a plate compressor several times
over the years - and have used a 3/4" drive socket as a puller too.

The deal on the 69 Vette was once you get the wheel off and I think
one more cover, there was a little web of metal you punch out with a
screwdriver and then you can depress the locking bolt (looks like the
latch on a interior domestic lock set). The new one just pushes in.
The "flash" in the die-casting was far from universal. I'd say less
than half of the ones I had to remove had the slot covered with a film
of zinc alloy - and some so thin you could ALMOST see through it.

I have been pretty specific as to make and year but I understood that
was the standard steering wheel collar when they went to the locking
wheel. I also know you could snatch that cylinder with a slap hammer
puller but getting one to stay back in there might be tough. ;-)