On Sat, 4 May 2019 15:01:25 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Saturday, May 4, 2019 at 12:06:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 03 May 2019 21:37:19 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 3 May 2019 16:16:56 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 10:56:08 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 3 May 2019 04:00:44 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 8:51:00 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 06:29:05 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

I mainly work with 10 - 22 gauge wire.

I have been using the blade type connectors, but they are a bit klunky to attach.

Is there anything better that I can solder my wires to?

Thanks,
Andy
https://www.mouser.com/new/TE-Connec...te-mate-n-lok/

Thanks.

Took a while weeding thru some posters with anger problems.

:-)

Andy

There are other competitive connector systems but it is usually best
to pick one and use it for most of your projects because you will end
up with a collection of common connectors and tools. Crimps really do
seem superior with these types of connections but you need a real
crimper.

I have a real crimper but the connectors do not compare to soldering.

Just today I had a wire pull out of a connection that used a blade connector.

Andy
A wire will not pull ot of a quality connector crimped with the proper
"real" crimper, They form a gas-tight crimp that virtually "welds" the
connector to the wire.

This usually happens when the terminal is rated for bigger wire than
you are using or you didn't get a good crimp.
IBM stopped soldering terminals in the early 60s. We did have
different crimpers for different manufacturer's terminals. They pretty
much settled in on AMP tho.

Thanks for the info.

I do think I used thinner wire that the connector called for.

May have been 20 gauge wire in a 14-16 connector.

I use this type of crimper.

"https://www.walmart.com/ip/Boston-Industrial-Insulated-Wire-Terminals-and-Connectors-Assortment-with-3-in-1-Wire-Stripper-Cutter-and-Crimper-Tool-175-Piece-Set/469426815"
That's not a crimper. That's a "mangler".

At a bare minimum you need something like this:

https://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-syst...355331_in1.jpg

Not cheap, but under $50 Canadian - not like some of the specialized
AMP crimpers

https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...er/A-p8355315e

On Sat, 04 May 2019 19:06:35 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 4 May 2019 15:01:25 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:


I do think I used thinner wire that the connector called for.

May have been 20 gauge wire in a 14-16 connector.

That will do it. There is too much metal on the terminal to get
squeezed down tight on the smaller wire.
+1 And it's even worse with a cheap butted sleave connector and that
useless crimper - -

On Sat, 04 May 2019 20:29:34 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 4 May 2019 15:01:25 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Saturday, May 4, 2019 at 12:06:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 03 May 2019 21:37:19 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 3 May 2019 16:16:56 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 10:56:08 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 3 May 2019 04:00:44 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 8:51:00 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 06:29:05 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

I mainly work with 10 - 22 gauge wire.

I have been using the blade type connectors, but they are a bit klunky to attach.

Is there anything better that I can solder my wires to?

Thanks,
Andy
https://www.mouser.com/new/TE-Connec...te-mate-n-lok/

Thanks.

Took a while weeding thru some posters with anger problems.

:-)

Andy

There are other competitive connector systems but it is usually best
to pick one and use it for most of your projects because you will end
up with a collection of common connectors and tools. Crimps really do
seem superior with these types of connections but you need a real
crimper.

I have a real crimper but the connectors do not compare to soldering.

Just today I had a wire pull out of a connection that used a blade connector.

Andy
A wire will not pull ot of a quality connector crimped with the proper
"real" crimper, They form a gas-tight crimp that virtually "welds" the
connector to the wire.

This usually happens when the terminal is rated for bigger wire than
you are using or you didn't get a good crimp.
IBM stopped soldering terminals in the early 60s. We did have
different crimpers for different manufacturer's terminals. They pretty
much settled in on AMP tho.

Thanks for the info.

I do think I used thinner wire that the connector called for.

May have been 20 gauge wire in a 14-16 connector.

I use this type of crimper.

"https://www.walmart.com/ip/Boston-Industrial-Insulated-Wire-Terminals-and-Connectors-Assortment-with-3-in-1-Wire-Stripper-Cutter-and-Crimper-Tool-175-Piece-Set/469426815"
That's not a crimper. That's a "mangler".

At a bare minimum you need something like this:

https://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-syst...355331_in1.jpg

Not cheap, but under $50 Canadian - not like some of the specialized
AMP crimpers

https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...er/A-p8355315e

With some practice you can get a decent crimp on the insulated
terminals like he has in that kit but it is very sensitive to being
sure you are right in the center of the barrel. You still will not
get the same uniform crimp that you get with the die style you posted

On Sat, 04 May 2019 23:22:29 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 04 May 2019 20:29:34 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 4 May 2019 15:01:25 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Saturday, May 4, 2019 at 12:06:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 03 May 2019 21:37:19 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 3 May 2019 16:16:56 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 10:56:08 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 3 May 2019 04:00:44 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 8:51:00 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 06:29:05 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

I mainly work with 10 - 22 gauge wire.

I have been using the blade type connectors, but they are a bit klunky to attach.

Is there anything better that I can solder my wires to?

Thanks,
Andy
https://www.mouser.com/new/TE-Connec...te-mate-n-lok/

Thanks.

Took a while weeding thru some posters with anger problems.

:-)

Andy

There are other competitive connector systems but it is usually best
to pick one and use it for most of your projects because you will end
up with a collection of common connectors and tools. Crimps really do
seem superior with these types of connections but you need a real
crimper.

I have a real crimper but the connectors do not compare to soldering.

Just today I had a wire pull out of a connection that used a blade connector.

Andy
A wire will not pull ot of a quality connector crimped with the proper
"real" crimper, They form a gas-tight crimp that virtually "welds" the
connector to the wire.

This usually happens when the terminal is rated for bigger wire than
you are using or you didn't get a good crimp.
IBM stopped soldering terminals in the early 60s. We did have
different crimpers for different manufacturer's terminals. They pretty
much settled in on AMP tho.

Thanks for the info.

I do think I used thinner wire that the connector called for.

May have been 20 gauge wire in a 14-16 connector.

I use this type of crimper.

"https://www.walmart.com/ip/Boston-Industrial-Insulated-Wire-Terminals-and-Connectors-Assortment-with-3-in-1-Wire-Stripper-Cutter-and-Crimper-Tool-175-Piece-Set/469426815"
That's not a crimper. That's a "mangler".

At a bare minimum you need something like this:

https://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-syst...355331_in1.jpg

Not cheap, but under $50 Canadian - not like some of the specialized
AMP crimpers

https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...er/A-p8355315e

With some practice you can get a decent crimp on the insulated
terminals like he has in that kit but it is very sensitive to being
sure you are right in the center of the barrel. You still will not
get the same uniform crimp that you get with the die style you posted
Basically just punching a divot into the side of the sleave isn't
very effective - particularly if the divot is opposite the split in
the sleave - - - -. If you can compress the sleave all the way around
the wire you have a fighting chance



Just found another pretty decent looking crimper for low price:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-In-1-Wire...kAAOSwcVtbbUFB
$29.99 us plus shipping out of California.
or Voilamart Cable Crimper Tool Kit Wire Terminal Ratchet Plier
Crimping Set on ebay out of south carolina for $7.25 US!!

On Sat, 04 May 2019 23:59:13 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 04 May 2019 23:22:29 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 04 May 2019 20:29:34 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 4 May 2019 15:01:25 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Saturday, May 4, 2019 at 12:06:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 03 May 2019 21:37:19 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 3 May 2019 16:16:56 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 10:56:08 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 3 May 2019 04:00:44 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 8:51:00 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 06:29:05 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

I mainly work with 10 - 22 gauge wire.

I have been using the blade type connectors, but they are a bit klunky to attach.

Is there anything better that I can solder my wires to?

Thanks,
Andy
https://www.mouser.com/new/TE-Connec...te-mate-n-lok/

Thanks.

Took a while weeding thru some posters with anger problems.

:-)

Andy

There are other competitive connector systems but it is usually best
to pick one and use it for most of your projects because you will end
up with a collection of common connectors and tools. Crimps really do
seem superior with these types of connections but you need a real
crimper.

I have a real crimper but the connectors do not compare to soldering.

Just today I had a wire pull out of a connection that used a blade connector.

Andy
A wire will not pull ot of a quality connector crimped with the proper
"real" crimper, They form a gas-tight crimp that virtually "welds" the
connector to the wire.

This usually happens when the terminal is rated for bigger wire than
you are using or you didn't get a good crimp.
IBM stopped soldering terminals in the early 60s. We did have
different crimpers for different manufacturer's terminals. They pretty
much settled in on AMP tho.

Thanks for the info.

I do think I used thinner wire that the connector called for.

May have been 20 gauge wire in a 14-16 connector.

I use this type of crimper.

"https://www.walmart.com/ip/Boston-Industrial-Insulated-Wire-Terminals-and-Connectors-Assortment-with-3-in-1-Wire-Stripper-Cutter-and-Crimper-Tool-175-Piece-Set/469426815"
That's not a crimper. That's a "mangler".

At a bare minimum you need something like this:

https://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-syst...355331_in1.jpg

Not cheap, but under $50 Canadian - not like some of the specialized
AMP crimpers

https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...er/A-p8355315e

With some practice you can get a decent crimp on the insulated
terminals like he has in that kit but it is very sensitive to being
sure you are right in the center of the barrel. You still will not
get the same uniform crimp that you get with the die style you posted
Basically just punching a divot into the side of the sleave isn't
very effective - particularly if the divot is opposite the split in
the sleave - - - -. If you can compress the sleave all the way around
the wire you have a fighting chance

You only use the divot part of that tool on the insulation. The crimp
is done with the round cutouts at the end with that tool. OTOH the
Klein tool electricians use does on their crimp rings use a divot type
crimp but they are not a split ring.


Just found another pretty decent looking crimper for low price:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-In-1-Wire...kAAOSwcVtbbUFB
$29.99 us plus shipping out of California.
or Voilamart Cable Crimper Tool Kit Wire Terminal Ratchet Plier
Crimping Set on ebay out of south carolina for $7.25 US!!

They look interesting but I have a bunch of different kinds of
crimping tools.

In article ,
says...


Just found another pretty decent looking crimper for low price:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-In-1-Wire...kAAOSwcVtbbUFB
$29.99 us plus shipping out of California.
or Voilamart Cable Crimper Tool Kit Wire Terminal Ratchet Plier
Crimping Set on ebay out of south carolina for $7.25 US!!



I don't see how the fellow can sell that crimper for $ 7.25, but it is
very similar to the type of crimpers I use.

That Walmart special may be ok for some low stress connectors. I have
one similar made by Klein but all I have ever used it for is to cut down
some screws. It only does the insulated terminals, but I have never
used it for that.


At work I made many connections using a tool made by Stak-on. It had
long handles so I could really mash down on the connectors. It worked
fine.

I think all the bad things people say about the crimp connectors are the
ones that do not use the proper tool, or do not use it correctly.

From what I have read, the proper crimp sort of cold welds the wire and
connector after a while.

On 5/4/2019 10:59 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
....

Just found another pretty decent looking crimper for low price:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-In-1-Wire...kAAOSwcVtbbUFB
$29.99 us plus shipping out of California.
or Voilamart Cable Crimper Tool Kit Wire Terminal Ratchet Plier
Crimping Set on ebay out of south carolina for $7.25 US!!

I don't either, but I just ordered one...we'll see if it'll stand up to
more than one crimp cycle--unlike the HF "Greenlee" knockoff punch set
that was so soft the threads simply pulled out of the die on the first
attempt through nothing more than a handy box wall...

Sometimes cheap is just cheap; sometimes a low price is "inexpensive"
and on rare occasions a "bargain"

We'll see which classification these fall into!

--

In article , says...
or Voilamart Cable Crimper Tool Kit Wire Terminal Ratchet Plier
Crimping Set on ebay out of south carolina for $7.25 US!!

I don't either, but I just ordered one...we'll see if it'll stand up to
more than one crimp cycle--unlike the HF "Greenlee" knockoff punch set
that was so soft the threads simply pulled out of the die on the first
attempt through nothing more than a handy box wall...

Sometimes cheap is just cheap; sometimes a low price is "inexpensive"
and on rare occasions a "bargain"

We'll see which classification these fall into!

--



Guess that I am a sucker also. At that price I ordered one. I have
several good quality ones, but might be good to stick in my 'emergency'
tool bag. One I just keep handy to grab to take places I may need a
tool. Sort of like the $ 29.95 tool kit from HF. Small and flat and I
keep it in my truck. Not much but may get me out of a jam.

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
.net...
In article ,
says...


Just found another pretty decent looking crimper for low price:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-In-1-Wire...kAAOSwcVtbbUFB
$29.99 us plus shipping out of California.
or Voilamart Cable Crimper Tool Kit Wire Terminal Ratchet Plier
Crimping Set on ebay out of south carolina for $7.25 US!!



I don't see how the fellow can sell that crimper for $ 7.25, but it is
very similar to the type of crimpers I use.

That Walmart special may be ok for some low stress connectors. I have
one similar made by Klein but all I have ever used it for is to cut down
some screws. It only does the insulated terminals, but I have never
used it for that.


At work I made many connections using a tool made by Stak-on. It had
long handles so I could really mash down on the connectors. It worked
fine.

I think all the bad things people say about the crimp connectors are the
ones that do not use the proper tool, or do not use it correctly.

From what I have read, the proper crimp sort of cold welds the wire and
connector after a while.

Not convinced that its possible 'after a while', it has to happen when its
crimped.

On Sun, 5 May 2019 12:20:45 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article , says...
or Voilamart Cable Crimper Tool Kit Wire Terminal Ratchet Plier
Crimping Set on ebay out of south carolina for $7.25 US!!

I don't either, but I just ordered one...we'll see if it'll stand up to
more than one crimp cycle--unlike the HF "Greenlee" knockoff punch set
that was so soft the threads simply pulled out of the die on the first
attempt through nothing more than a handy box wall...

Sometimes cheap is just cheap; sometimes a low price is "inexpensive"
and on rare occasions a "bargain"

We'll see which classification these fall into!

--



Guess that I am a sucker also. At that price I ordered one. I have
several good quality ones, but might be good to stick in my 'emergency'
tool bag. One I just keep handy to grab to take places I may need a
tool. Sort of like the $ 29.95 tool kit from HF. Small and flat and I
keep it in my truck. Not much but may get me out of a jam.


I never understood that. Why carry junk tools for an "emergency" when
you may only have one chance to get home. Rounding off bolts,
stripping out screw heads and making bad splices is not going to
improve your chances of getting the job done when you need it the
most.

On Mon, 6 May 2019 03:00:51 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

I think all the bad things people say about the crimp connectors are the
ones that do not use the proper tool, or do not use it correctly.

From what I have read, the proper crimp sort of cold welds the wire and
connector after a while.

Not convinced

Of COURSE not, you auto-contradicting senile asshole! LOL

--
Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot:
"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
MID:

In article ,
says...

I never understood that. Why carry junk tools for an "emergency" when
you may only have one chance to get home. Rounding off bolts,
stripping out screw heads and making bad splices is not going to
improve your chances of getting the job done when you need it the
most.



I may have not made it very clear. I have a bag with mostly good tools
that I can just grab up to take where I think I may need to do some
work. In it is several good meters, soldering gun, all kinds of
wrenches and screwdrivers. Some electrical tape and connectors and
fuses.

My $ 30 HF set is in my truck because I never can tell where a
screwdriver or wrench may be needed . I keep a kit of tools in my car
that I bought at Sears many years ago for the same reason. I don;t
think I will need the tools for car or truck as they do not have very
many miles on them. However I might run into what my son did a few
months back. His car would not even try to start. He had just had a
new battery installed and drove it a few days. Then it would not try to
start. He called me and when I looked at it, one of the battery clamps
was not tight. If he had just about any inexpensive tool with him and
knew what to look for, he could have been back on the road.

On Sun, 05 May 2019 14:01:16 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 5 May 2019 12:20:45 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article , says...
or Voilamart Cable Crimper Tool Kit Wire Terminal Ratchet Plier
Crimping Set on ebay out of south carolina for $7.25 US!!

I don't either, but I just ordered one...we'll see if it'll stand up to
more than one crimp cycle--unlike the HF "Greenlee" knockoff punch set
that was so soft the threads simply pulled out of the die on the first
attempt through nothing more than a handy box wall...

Sometimes cheap is just cheap; sometimes a low price is "inexpensive"
and on rare occasions a "bargain"

We'll see which classification these fall into!

--



Guess that I am a sucker also. At that price I ordered one. I have
several good quality ones, but might be good to stick in my 'emergency'
tool bag. One I just keep handy to grab to take places I may need a
tool. Sort of like the $ 29.95 tool kit from HF. Small and flat and I
keep it in my truck. Not much but may get me out of a jam.


I never understood that. Why carry junk tools for an "emergency" when
you may only have one chance to get home. Rounding off bolts,
stripping out screw heads and making bad splices is not going to
improve your chances of getting the job done when you need it the
most.
+1
When I really NEED a tool (emergency) is when I do NOT want to find
out how crappy the tool is. Particularly not by having it break and
skin my knuckles or crack my noggin- - -. The tools I carry in the
truck are tools I TRUST to get me out of a jam - not into one!!!

Not Snap-ons or other "high-brand" stuff - but quality Mastercraft
tools which have proven over the years to be reliable (stuff I buy at
Canadian Tire on sale for $89 - regular price $200 oe more) and have
NEVER let me down, in the shop or on the road. I had a few sets of
CHEAP tools that I picked up or inherited over the years that I threw
out a few years ago. I didn't even want to put them on the table for a
garage sale and have someone hurt themselves with them.

On Saturday, May 4, 2019 at 10:59:16 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 04 May 2019 23:22:29 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 04 May 2019 20:29:34 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 4 May 2019 15:01:25 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Saturday, May 4, 2019 at 12:06:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 03 May 2019 21:37:19 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 3 May 2019 16:16:56 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 10:56:08 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 3 May 2019 04:00:44 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 8:51:00 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 06:29:05 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

I mainly work with 10 - 22 gauge wire.

I have been using the blade type connectors, but they are a bit klunky to attach.

Is there anything better that I can solder my wires to?

Thanks,
Andy
https://www.mouser.com/new/TE-Connec...te-mate-n-lok/

Thanks.

Took a while weeding thru some posters with anger problems.

:-)

Andy

There are other competitive connector systems but it is usually best
to pick one and use it for most of your projects because you will end
up with a collection of common connectors and tools. Crimps really do
seem superior with these types of connections but you need a real
crimper.

I have a real crimper but the connectors do not compare to soldering.

Just today I had a wire pull out of a connection that used a blade connector.

Andy
A wire will not pull ot of a quality connector crimped with the proper
"real" crimper, They form a gas-tight crimp that virtually "welds" the
connector to the wire.

This usually happens when the terminal is rated for bigger wire than
you are using or you didn't get a good crimp.
IBM stopped soldering terminals in the early 60s. We did have
different crimpers for different manufacturer's terminals. They pretty
much settled in on AMP tho.

Thanks for the info.

I do think I used thinner wire that the connector called for.

May have been 20 gauge wire in a 14-16 connector.

I use this type of crimper.

"https://www.walmart.com/ip/Boston-Industrial-Insulated-Wire-Terminals-and-Connectors-Assortment-with-3-in-1-Wire-Stripper-Cutter-and-Crimper-Tool-175-Piece-Set/469426815"
That's not a crimper. That's a "mangler".

At a bare minimum you need something like this:

https://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-syst...355331_in1.jpg

Not cheap, but under $50 Canadian - not like some of the specialized
AMP crimpers

https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...er/A-p8355315e

With some practice you can get a decent crimp on the insulated
terminals like he has in that kit but it is very sensitive to being
sure you are right in the center of the barrel. You still will not
get the same uniform crimp that you get with the die style you posted
Basically just punching a divot into the side of the sleave isn't
very effective - particularly if the divot is opposite the split in
the sleave - - - -. If you can compress the sleave all the way around
the wire you have a fighting chance



Just found another pretty decent looking crimper for low price:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-In-1-Wire...kAAOSwcVtbbUFB
$29.99 us plus shipping out of California.
or Voilamart Cable Crimper Tool Kit Wire Terminal Ratchet Plier
Crimping Set on ebay out of south carolina for $7.25 US!!

Thanks. That's a price I can afford.

Andy