When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the blue pvc cleaner? Please advise Herb

On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 11:16:50 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the blue pvc cleaner? Please advise Herb

I vote yes.

On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 11:16:50 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the blue pvc cleaner? Please advise Herb

You can use the clear in the yellow can but if it is being inspected
they want to see a little purple ring on the pipe at the joint. The
cleaner/primer does make the joint much stronger. It breaks the
surface oxidation and allows the cement to penetrate better,

On Thursday, April 11, 2019 at 2:25:08 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 11:16:50 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the blue pvc cleaner? Please advise Herb

You can use the clear in the yellow can but if it is being inspected
they want to see a little purple ring on the pipe at the joint. The
cleaner/primer does make the joint much stronger. It breaks the
surface oxidation and allows the cement to penetrate better,

+1

Also depends on what he means by "working with". If it's for water pipe
under pressure, I'd say absolutely yes. If it's making one joint to
make a reaching pole to poke at something, you can probably get away without
it.

On 4/11/2019 2:16 PM, wrote:
When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the blue pvc cleaner? Please advise Herb


Do you mind if it leaks? Yes, you get a better joint if you do it the
right way.

On 4/11/2019 2:16 PM, wrote:
When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the blue pvc cleaner? Please advise Herb


I had to repair some PVC several weeks ago. I was just looking at my
can of PVC adhesive and it gives specific instructions about wiping off
the cut part after chamfering and then how to apply the adhesive. There
was nothing about using PVC cleaner.

On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 18:54:43 -0400, Frank "frank wrote:

On 4/11/2019 2:16 PM, wrote:
When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the blue pvc cleaner? Please advise Herb


I had to repair some PVC several weeks ago. I was just looking at my
can of PVC adhesive and it gives specific instructions about wiping off
the cut part after chamfering and then how to apply the adhesive. There
was nothing about using PVC cleaner.

The primer / cleaner is just one aspect of PVC pipe fitting.

My pool pipes are 2 inch ~ 10 PSI?

On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 14:24:53 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 11:16:50 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the blue pvc cleaner? Please advise Herb

You can use the clear in the yellow can but if it is being inspected
they want to see a little purple ring on the pipe at the joint. The
cleaner/primer does make the joint much stronger. It breaks the
surface oxidation and allows the cement to penetrate better,

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/the-g...er-debate.html

On 4/11/2019 7:16 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 18:54:43 -0400, Frank "frank wrote:

On 4/11/2019 2:16 PM, wrote:
When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the blue pvc cleaner? Please advise Herb


I had to repair some PVC several weeks ago. I was just looking at my
can of PVC adhesive and it gives specific instructions about wiping off
the cut part after chamfering and then how to apply the adhesive. There
was nothing about using PVC cleaner.

The primer / cleaner is just one aspect of PVC pipe fitting.

My pool pipes are 2 inch ~ 10 PSI?

I bow to your expertise. These are just drains under no pressure. My
new adhesive is good for both CPVC and PVC so it might be different.

On 4/11/2019 7:28 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 14:24:53 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 11:16:50 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the blue pvc cleaner? Please advise Herb

You can use the clear in the yellow can but if it is being inspected
they want to see a little purple ring on the pipe at the joint. The
cleaner/primer does make the joint much stronger. It breaks the
surface oxidation and allows the cement to penetrate better,

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/the-g...er-debate.html


Stuff I used called for two coats so it might be primer and adhesive.

On 4/11/2019 4:28 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 14:24:53 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 11:16:50 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the blue pvc cleaner? Please advise Herb

You can use the clear in the yellow can but if it is being inspected
they want to see a little purple ring on the pipe at the joint. The
cleaner/primer does make the joint much stronger. It breaks the
surface oxidation and allows the cement to penetrate better,

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/the-g...er-debate.html


That was a good read!

On 4/11/2019 2:14 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/11/2019 2:16 PM, wrote:
When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the blue
pvc cleaner? Please adviseÂ*Â* Herb


Do you mind if it leaks?Â* Yes, you get a better joint if you do it the
right way.

I used to think that until I read Vic's reference.

On 4/11/2019 10:36 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 4/11/2019 2:14 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/11/2019 2:16 PM, wrote:
When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the
blue pvc cleaner? Please adviseÂ*Â* Herb


Do you mind if it leaks?Â* Yes, you get a better joint if you do it the
right way.

I used to think that until I read Vic's reference.

Have to agree. The figures on the 24 hour test were amazingly close on
all.

This was for drain connections, not pressure, but I doubt pressure would
make any real difference on a good joint.

On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 23:30:10 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 4/11/2019 10:36 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 4/11/2019 2:14 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/11/2019 2:16 PM, wrote:
When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the
blue pvc cleaner? Please adviseÂ*Â* Herb


Do you mind if it leaks?Â* Yes, you get a better joint if you do it the
right way.

I used to think that until I read Vic's reference.

Have to agree. The figures on the 24 hour test were amazingly close on
all.

This was for drain connections, not pressure, but I doubt pressure would
make any real difference on a good joint.

I always just use sandpaper to clean the PVC before using cement.
But my experience with PVC is limited to sump pump lines.
I wouldn't use it on anything else.

On Thursday, April 11, 2019 at 7:28:26 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 14:24:53 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 11:16:50 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

When working/repairing pvc pipe is it really necessary to use the blue pvc cleaner? Please advise Herb

You can use the clear in the yellow can but if it is being inspected
they want to see a little purple ring on the pipe at the joint. The
cleaner/primer does make the joint much stronger. It breaks the
surface oxidation and allows the cement to penetrate better,

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/the-g...er-debate.html


Couple of things. I assume these tests were done at room temp. IMO, too
many tests at room temp, none at min and max temp. I think min is ~40F?
Solvent could have a more significant effect at temp extremes, perhaps
at low end. And what kind of pipe? Brand new PVC? Or twenty year old
PVC that your are patching onto? Nice and clean? Or with some dirt on
it? Yeah, we know it's supposed to be clean, but we all know what happens
anyway. That solvent is loaded with acetone and you can see it melting
the plastic, so any old surface, some dirt is going to get taken off
and at least distributed around the joint, leaving fresh PVC exposed.
The glue itself is thicker and seems less likely it's going to work past
old PVC, dirt, etc.

On Friday, April 12, 2019 at 9:48:26 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
Couple of things. I assume these tests were done at room temp. IMO, too
many tests at room temp, none at min and max temp. I think min is ~40F?

I wondered about that too. I've done some work in a cold basement. Even in the summer early in the morning it can be chilly.

What was really interesting was the time it took to develop full strength. Those tests showed 24 hours, while most people (including me) assume these joints are strong pretty much as soon as they set. I would think in cold temperatures the strength would develop even more slowly.

On Friday, April 12, 2019 at 10:52:53 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
On Friday, April 12, 2019 at 9:48:26 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
Couple of things. I assume these tests were done at room temp. IMO, too
many tests at room temp, none at min and max temp. I think min is ~40F?

I wondered about that too. I've done some work in a cold basement. Even in the summer early in the morning it can be chilly.

What was really interesting was the time it took to develop full strength.. Those tests showed 24 hours, while most people (including me) assume these joints are strong pretty much as soon as they set. I would think in cold temperatures the strength would develop even more slowly.

I think the cement cans say something like can be handled in X mins,
OK for X lbs pressure at 2 hours.... IDK what the exact numbers were
but I know it said something like that. And also I think that was at
room temperature.

On Fri, 12 Apr 2019 08:00:54 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, April 12, 2019 at 10:52:53 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
On Friday, April 12, 2019 at 9:48:26 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
Couple of things. I assume these tests were done at room temp. IMO, too
many tests at room temp, none at min and max temp. I think min is ~40F?

I wondered about that too. I've done some work in a cold basement. Even in the summer early in the morning it can be chilly.

What was really interesting was the time it took to develop full strength. Those tests showed 24 hours, while most people (including me) assume these joints are strong pretty much as soon as they set. I would think in cold temperatures the strength would develop even more slowly.

I think the cement cans say something like can be handled in X mins,
OK for X lbs pressure at 2 hours.... IDK what the exact numbers were
but I know it said something like that. And also I think that was at
room temperature.

That is what the blue is for. It sets in 10 minutes or so.
Most guys doing repairs use that.
One thing they didn't address is the "cleaning" part. If that pipe has
"been around" the surface needs a good scrubbing, particularly if it
was underground but just being out in the light makes them get a
chalky coating. (like in that outside bay at Lowes/HD where they store
it before it comes inside).
Virtually all trade suppliers store it outside.

On 4/12/2019 10:52 AM, TimR wrote:
On Friday, April 12, 2019 at 9:48:26 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
Couple of things. I assume these tests were done at room temp. IMO, too
many tests at room temp, none at min and max temp. I think min is ~40F?

I wondered about that too. I've done some work in a cold basement. Even in the summer early in the morning it can be chilly.

What was really interesting was the time it took to develop full strength. Those tests showed 24 hours, while most people (including me) assume these joints are strong pretty much as soon as they set. I would think in cold temperatures the strength would develop even more slowly.


Cure is essentially solvent evaporation which would be slower at lower
temperatures. Solvent slowly diffuses through the PVC. Odor may remain
a long time after the joint is about as strong as it is going to get.