For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless
of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets.

I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 19:23:00 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless
of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets.

I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

Speaking only for myself, I'd use what is said by the home builder.
Try to keep the warranty?

On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters.Â* It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless
of the brand?Â* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?Â* We have no pets.

I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your
question:

https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters

Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are
MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may
collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new
house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and
MERV 8
regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?
We have no
pets.
I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a
dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez
it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean

On 2/4/2019 7:56 PM, Frank wrote:


I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your
question:

https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters


Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are
MERV 11.Â* Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may
collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier.

That articles puts it into simple words. Only a few pennies more for
better filtration.

On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 19:23:00 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.
I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless
of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets.
I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?
Discount filters seems cheapest.


I like to find a good deal - and buy 2 - 3 years worth.
My filters are 20 x 20 x 1 and I try to change them every
5 weeks ~ 4 or 5 filters per year no summer A/C

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/f...3472p.html#spc

Presently, these can be found at our Habitat Re-Store for $ 13. each.

Similar no-name are available for $ 15.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/g...5316p.html#srp

MERV 8 are 2 for $ 11.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/g...3408p.html#srp

Fill your boots.

A piece of green painters tape applied to the filter edge
with the install date marked is a handy reminder.

John T.


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

In article , says...

As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez
it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean





That is what I have heard. We keep the windows closed all the time and
the filters look clean, so I change them every 2 months. I use the
least expensive ones at Lowes.

After about 10 years my new heatpump had a problem. While the man came
out and replaced a capacitor, he said something about cleaning it for
not much more. He looked at the inside air handler and while he cleaned
it, he said it looked almost new and did not really need a cleaning.
The outside unit was about the same way. However the outside unit is
under a deck and the lawn mower only gets about 5 feet away from it and
I mow so the clippings blow away from the unit.

On Mon, 04 Feb 2019 16:40:36 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 19:23:00 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless
of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets.

I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

Speaking only for myself, I'd use what is said by the home builder.
Try to keep the warranty?
Absolutely nothing to do with warranty.

My rule of thumb is never buy the cheapest or the most expensive.
Go with a known brand name. See what your furnace guy supplies - you
can likely source exactly the same filter for less than he charges -
Home Despot, Lowes, Cpstco, etc,

On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 19:12:16 -0600, "ChairMan"
wrote:

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new
house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and
MERV 8
regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?
We have no
pets.
I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a
dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez
it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean

I have a washable electrostatic (passive) filter that I wash out every
couple of months since the cats died (every month when we had the 2)

On 2/5/2019 12:08 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 04 Feb 2019 16:40:36 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 19:23:00 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless
of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets.

I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

Speaking only for myself, I'd use what is said by the home builder.
Try to keep the warranty?
Absolutely nothing to do with warranty.

My rule of thumb is never buy the cheapest or the most expensive.
Go with a known brand name. See what your furnace guy supplies - you
can likely source exactly the same filter for less than he charges -
Home Despot, Lowes, Cpstco, etc,


Amazon has Aerostar MERV13 filters, 4 for $34. I'll try them. They are
allegedly equal to the top name brands.
Furnace Air Filter
Comparable to 3M Filtrete MPR 1500 to 1900 Ultimate Allergen Defense
Comparable to Honeywell Allergen Elite FPR 10

This is what I use:


https://www.aafintl.com/en/commercia...ectpleat-hc-m8

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless
of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets.

I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

Trouble is, they don't have efficiency rating on air flow drag.

Greg

On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 7:40:43 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 19:23:00 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless
of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets.

I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

Speaking only for myself, I'd use what is said by the home builder.
Try to keep the warranty?

Homebuilders don't know or care about furnace air filters.
Most can't even hire an HVAC company to do the job right.

On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new
house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and
MERV 8
regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?
We have no
pets.
I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a
dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez
it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean

Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days?
Once a season, tops for me. I frequently go a couple seasons because
they are not dirty. If you live in a house with a bunch of pets
and/or other issues, even then I can't see 30 days.

Merv 13 vs 11, if the price is about the same, I'd get the better one.
But you also have to look at flow rate and be sure the higher efficiency
doesn't restrict the air flow too much. The higher Merv filters are 4"
thick with deep pleats, to increase surface area to keep pressure drop
acceptable.

On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 8:15:04 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new
house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and
MERV 8
regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?
We have no
pets.
I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a
dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez
it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean

Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days?

What's a typical house? I live in a 1948 masonry structure partially
on a crawl space and partially on a basement. The cold air returns
are set into the floors. My husband has asthma. We have two
furnace filters: a prefilter and a big pleated paper filter.
We change the prefilter every month (and it is dirty), and the
paper filter twice a year.

Cindy Hamilton

On 2/5/2019 8:15 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new
house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and
MERV 8
regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?
We have no
pets.
I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a
dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez
it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean

Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days?
Once a season, tops for me. I frequently go a couple seasons because
they are not dirty. If you live in a house with a bunch of pets
and/or other issues, even then I can't see 30 days.

Merv 13 vs 11, if the price is about the same, I'd get the better one.
But you also have to look at flow rate and be sure the higher efficiency
doesn't restrict the air flow too much. The higher Merv filters are 4"
thick with deep pleats, to increase surface area to keep pressure drop
acceptable.



I'm going to see how it looks after 90 days. Of course, filter makers
suggest that time so they sell you a filter 4 times a year.

The 4" makes sense, but there is only room for a 1" so I'll go with that.

On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 9:16:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 8:15:04 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new
house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and
MERV 8
regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?
We have no
pets.
I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a
dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez
it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean

Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days?

What's a typical house? I live in a 1948 masonry structure partially
on a crawl space and partially on a basement. The cold air returns
are set into the floors. My husband has asthma. We have two
furnace filters: a prefilter and a big pleated paper filter.
We change the prefilter every month (and it is dirty), and the
paper filter twice a year.

Cindy Hamilton

Cold air returns in the floor are not typical.

On 2/5/2019 9:55 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 9:16:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 8:15:04 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new
house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and
MERV 8
regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?
We have no
pets.
I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a
dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez
it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean

Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days?

What's a typical house? I live in a 1948 masonry structure partially
on a crawl space and partially on a basement. The cold air returns
are set into the floors. My husband has asthma. We have two
furnace filters: a prefilter and a big pleated paper filter.
We change the prefilter every month (and it is dirty), and the
paper filter twice a year.

Cindy Hamilton

Cold air returns in the floor are not typical.


My first house, built in 1948 had a gravity feed furnace. No blower, no
filters, returns in the wall but at floor level. Actually worked well.
Could not be adapted to add AC though.

trader_4 writes:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 9:16:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 8:15:04 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new
house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and
MERV 8
regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?
We have no
pets.
I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a
dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez
it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean

Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days?

What's a typical house? I live in a 1948 masonry structure partially
on a crawl space and partially on a basement. The cold air returns
are set into the floors. My husband has asthma. We have two
furnace filters: a prefilter and a big pleated paper filter.
We change the prefilter every month (and it is dirty), and the
paper filter twice a year.

Cindy Hamilton

Cold air returns in the floor are not typical.

Nor atypical, particularly in retrofitted older homes. Cold air returns at
floor level on a wall are also not atypical, even in newer homes (as that's
where the cold air is during heating season).

On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 9:55:28 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 9:16:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 8:15:04 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new
house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and
MERV 8
regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?
We have no
pets.
I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a
dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez
it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean

Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days?

What's a typical house? I live in a 1948 masonry structure partially
on a crawl space and partially on a basement. The cold air returns
are set into the floors. My husband has asthma. We have two
furnace filters: a prefilter and a big pleated paper filter.
We change the prefilter every month (and it is dirty), and the
paper filter twice a year.

Cindy Hamilton

Cold air returns in the floor are not typical.

You're not wrong. We put them in the floor because the original
ones in the wall used to wash down over the concrete block
foundation. Warm house air over cold block = mold.

Cindy Hamilton

In article ,
says...

Cold air returns in the floor are not typical.

Nor atypical, particularly in retrofitted older homes. Cold air returns at
floor level on a wall are also not atypical, even in newer homes (as that's
where the cold air is during heating season).



I can understand that. As my house has a heat pump I guess that being
several feet off the floor is a good compromise for the air return. All
the outputs are at the floor level. Just an easy way to put them I
guess.

On 2/5/2019 1:17 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...

Cold air returns in the floor are not typical.

Nor atypical, particularly in retrofitted older homes. Cold air returns at
floor level on a wall are also not atypical, even in newer homes (as that's
where the cold air is during heating season).



I can understand that. As my house has a heat pump I guess that being
several feet off the floor is a good compromise for the air return. All
the outputs are at the floor level. Just an easy way to put them I
guess.


Floor level outlets are common for heat. Some houses would have a floor
level damper that was open for heat, then closed for the AC and a
register near the ceiling was opened for AC.

My new house has the vents in the ceiling but it is mostly the AC as we
use little heat in Florida. I also have ceiling fans in most rooms too.

In article , says...

Floor level outlets are common for heat. Some houses would have a floor
level damper that was open for heat, then closed for the AC and a
register near the ceiling was opened for AC.

My new house has the vents in the ceiling but it is mostly the AC as we
use little heat in Florida. I also have ceiling fans in most rooms too.



Guess that it depends on what part of the country you are in. I live in
central NC and use the heat about as much as the AC. Very few days over
100 and lower 25 deg F. The heat or AC of th eheat pump is used almost
every day of the year. One about as much as the other.

I think our house was bult with just the easy way out. The down stairs
has vents at the floor level, but the 2 upstairs bedrooms and bath have
them in the ceiling. The return is located about halfway up the stairs.

On 2/5/2019 9:16 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/5/2019 8:15 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new
house has a
furnace and uses filters.Â* It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and
MERV 8
regardless of the brand?Â* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?
We have no
pets.
I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a
dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez
it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean

Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days?
Once a season, tops for me.Â* I frequently go a couple seasons because
they are not dirty.Â* If you live in a house with a bunch of pets
and/or other issues, even then I can't see 30 days.

Merv 13 vs 11, if the price is about the same, I'd get the better one.
But you also have to look at flow rate and be sure the higher efficiency
doesn't restrict the air flow too much.Â* The higher Merv filters are 4"
thick with deep pleats, to increase surface area to keep pressure drop
acceptable.



I'm going to see how it looks after 90 days.Â* Of course, filter makers
suggest that time so they sell you a filter 4 times a year.

The 4" makes sense, but there is only room for a 1" so I'll go with that.

That is obviously all you can do. My one inch filters are 1X16X20". I
change every 4 months unless there is a long spell with no need for heat
and AC. Filter may not appear to be very dirty but a little sediment
could reduce through put considerably.

Frank posted for all of us...



On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters.* It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless
of the brand?* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?* We have no pets.

I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your
question:

https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters

Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are
MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may
collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier.

I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then possibly
the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to determine
the suitability.

--
Tekkie

=?iso-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?= writes:
Frank posted for all of us...


=20
On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a=20
furnace and uses filters.=A0 It takes a 1" filter.
=20
I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardles=
s=20
of the brand?=A0 Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?=A0 We have no pets.
=20
I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to=20
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?
=20
Discount filters seems cheapest.
=20
I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your=20
question:
=20
https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...nce-between-m=
erv-8-and-merv-11-filters
=20
Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are=20
MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may=20
collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier.

I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then possibl=
y=20
the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to determin=
e=20
the suitability.

A dirty filter:

1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This could result
in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle time
(and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after the heat
exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat).

2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional power and
prematurely ages the blower.

On Wed, 6 Feb 2019 14:02:53 -0500, Tekkie® wrote:

Frank posted for all of us...



On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters.* It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless
of the brand?* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?* We have no pets.

I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your
question:

https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters

Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are
MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may
collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier.

I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then possibly
the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to determine
the suitability.
Restricting airflow does NOT overload a blower motor. Restricted
filters restrict the amount of air moved REDUCING load on the blower
motor. Youknew that and forgot - right "tekkie"?

Right.
Replace filters when they get dirty.

On 2/6/2019 11:49 PM, wrote:
Right.
Replace filters when they get dirty.

A filter can clog fast without appearing that dirty. Happened to me
with my well problem where the whole house water filter clogged after
only 2 days with new pump.

I change my furnace filters every 3 months unless there is extended non
use of heat or AC.

On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 3:16:22 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote:
A dirty filter:

1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This could result
in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle time
(and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after the heat
exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat).

2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional power and
prematurely ages the blower.

A dirty filter does a couple of things.

It reduces air flow, perhaps very slightly to a lot.

It increases the efficiency of filtration. Dirty filters catch more dirt and work better, up to the point where reduced air flow becomes a problem.

If you reduce airflow enough, you might have coil freezeups or other problems. Residential systems tend to need a steady airflow across the coil, balanced to the temperature and the amount of charge. The old ones aren't intelligent enough to adjust, I dunno about more recent ones.

If your filter is dirty enough, theoretically it might rupture and spill unfiltered air into the equipment. The purpose of a filter is mainly to protect the equipment, not the humans. I haven't seen this happen in a residential system but I have in a commercial one. So I don't know if that's really a problem in a house.

I change my filter when I hear the sound in the return increase. That's probably about 3 months or so, I don't keep track. I just cleaned my refrigerator coils last night, they were caked with dust. (I have that stupid double A coil setup, where you can only reach the outer two rows.)

On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 8:39:09 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 3:16:22 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote:
A dirty filter:

1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This could result
in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle time
(and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after the heat
exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat).

2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional power and
prematurely ages the blower.

A dirty filter does a couple of things.

It reduces air flow, perhaps very slightly to a lot.

It increases the efficiency of filtration. Dirty filters catch more dirt and work better, up to the point where reduced air flow becomes a problem.

If you reduce airflow enough, you might have coil freezeups or other problems. Residential systems tend to need a steady airflow across the coil, balanced to the temperature and the amount of charge. The old ones aren't intelligent enough to adjust, I dunno about more recent ones.

If your filter is dirty enough, theoretically it might rupture and spill unfiltered air into the equipment. The purpose of a filter is mainly to protect the equipment, not the humans. I haven't seen this happen in a residential system but I have in a commercial one. So I don't know if that's really a problem in a house.

I change my filter when I hear the sound in the return increase. That's probably about 3 months or so, I don't keep track. I just cleaned my refrigerator coils last night, they were caked with dust. (I have that stupid double A coil setup, where you can only reach the outer two rows.)



I wonder why the refrigerator companies haven't designed in a filter?
Same problem here, the coils are tucked underneath, you can't get to anything
more than the front of it to try to clean it. Not only would it be of
benefit to us, but it would be another revenue source for the companies,
selling the replacement filters. These suck in air at the worst place,
right at the floor surface where they pull in dust, pet hair, etc and
get dirty fast.

On 2/11/2019 8:39 AM, TimR wrote:
On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 3:16:22 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote:
A dirty filter:

1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This could result
in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle time
(and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after the heat
exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat).

2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional power and
prematurely ages the blower.

A dirty filter does a couple of things.

It reduces air flow, perhaps very slightly to a lot.

It increases the efficiency of filtration. Dirty filters catch more dirt and work better, up to the point where reduced air flow becomes a problem.

If you reduce airflow enough, you might have coil freezeups or other problems. Residential systems tend to need a steady airflow across the coil, balanced to the temperature and the amount of charge. The old ones aren't intelligent enough to adjust, I dunno about more recent ones.

If your filter is dirty enough, theoretically it might rupture and spill unfiltered air into the equipment. The purpose of a filter is mainly to protect the equipment, not the humans. I haven't seen this happen in a residential system but I have in a commercial one. So I don't know if that's really a problem in a house.

I change my filter when I hear the sound in the return increase. That's probably about 3 months or so, I don't keep track. I just cleaned my refrigerator coils last night, they were caked with dust. (I have that stupid double A coil setup, where you can only reach the outer two rows.)


Very good advice. Most people think you should just change them when
dirty. Saw the same thing with a water filter with my well problem.
The new pump stuck in the well clogged the filter in a couple of days.
It hardly looked dirty but fine pores were clogged and water flow slowed
to a trickle.

On 2/11/2019 8:55 AM, trader_4 wrote:
I wonder why the refrigerator companies haven't designed in a filter?
Same problem here, the coils are tucked underneath, you can't get to anything
more than the front of it to try to clean it. Not only would it be of
benefit to us, but it would be another revenue source for the companies,
selling the replacement filters. These suck in air at the worst place,
right at the floor surface where they pull in dust, pet hair, etc and
get dirty fast.


Every year or so I empty our refrigerators and roll them out on to the deck and give them a good blowjob with a 100 psi air nozzle.

"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 8:39:09 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 3:16:22 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote:
A dirty filter:

1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This could
result
in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle
time
(and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after the
heat
exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat).

2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional power
and
prematurely ages the blower.

A dirty filter does a couple of things.

It reduces air flow, perhaps very slightly to a lot.

It increases the efficiency of filtration. Dirty filters catch more dirt
and work better, up to the point where reduced air flow becomes a
problem.

If you reduce airflow enough, you might have coil freezeups or other
problems. Residential systems tend to need a steady airflow across the
coil, balanced to the temperature and the amount of charge. The old ones
aren't intelligent enough to adjust, I dunno about more recent ones.

If your filter is dirty enough, theoretically it might rupture and spill
unfiltered air into the equipment. The purpose of a filter is mainly to
protect the equipment, not the humans. I haven't seen this happen in a
residential system but I have in a commercial one. So I don't know if
that's really a problem in a house.

I change my filter when I hear the sound in the return increase. That's
probably about 3 months or so, I don't keep track. I just cleaned my
refrigerator coils last night, they were caked with dust. (I have that
stupid double A coil setup, where you can only reach the outer two rows.)



I wonder why the refrigerator companies haven't designed in a filter?
Same problem here, the coils are tucked underneath, you can't get to
anything
more than the front of it to try to clean it. Not only would it be of
benefit to us, but it would be another revenue source for the companies,
selling the replacement filters. These suck in air at the worst place,
right at the floor surface where they pull in dust, pet hair, etc and
get dirty fast.

In reality you dont get an accumulation of muck around the fridge
compressor, essentially because air isnt blown over the exposed coils
at the back of the fridge or freezer, they are cooled by convection.

You dont get an accumulation of muck even with frost free fridges and
freezers which blow the cold air thru the inside of the fridge or freezer.

The most you get with my fridge in very humid weather is a bit of a
burble when you close the door due to the feed of the water that
is condensed out of the air before the air is moved into the body
of the fridge being under the water surface in the bowl on top of the
compressor where it evaporates due to the compressor waste heat.

Clare Snyder posted for all of us...



On Wed, 6 Feb 2019 14:02:53 -0500, Tekkie® wrote:

Frank posted for all of us...



On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters.* It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless
of the brand?* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?* We have no pets.

I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your
question:

https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters

Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are
MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may
collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier.

I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then possibly
the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to determine
the suitability.
Restricting airflow does NOT overload a blower motor. Restricted
filters restrict the amount of air moved REDUCING load on the blower
motor. Youknew that and forgot - right "tekkie"?

No, remember it is on the suction side.

--
Tekkie

Clare Snyder posted for all of us...



On Wed, 6 Feb 2019 14:02:53 -0500, Tekkie® wrote:

Frank posted for all of us...



On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters.* It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless
of the brand?* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?* We have no pets.

I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your
question:

https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters

Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are
MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may
collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier.

I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then possibly
the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to determine
the suitability.
Restricting airflow does NOT overload a blower motor. Restricted
filters restrict the amount of air moved REDUCING load on the blower
motor. Youknew that and forgot - right "tekkie"?

Never claimed to be a know it all.

--
Tekkie

=?iso-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?= writes:
Clare Snyder posted for all of us...


=20
On Wed, 6 Feb 2019 14:02:53 -0500, Tekkie=AE wrote:
=20
Frank posted for all of us...


=20
On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a=
=20
furnace and uses filters.=A0 It takes a 1" filter.
=20
I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regard=
less=20
of the brand?=A0 Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?=A0 We have no pets.
=20
I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to=
=20
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?
=20
Discount filters seems cheapest.
=20
I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your=
=20
question:
=20
https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erence-betwee=
n-merv-8-and-merv-11-filters
=20
Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are=
=20
MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may=
=20
collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier.

I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then poss=
ibly=20
the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to deter=
mine=20
the suitability.
Restricting airflow does NOT overload a blower motor. Restricted
filters restrict the amount of air moved REDUCING load on the blower
motor. Youknew that and forgot - right "tekkie"?

Never claimed to be a know it all.

Actually, you were more correct than Clare was.

Clare Snyder posted for all of us...



On Wed, 6 Feb 2019 14:02:53 -0500, Tekkie® wrote:

Frank posted for all of us...



On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters.* It takes a 1" filter.

I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless
of the brand?* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?* We have no pets.

I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to
$14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating?

Discount filters seems cheapest.

I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your
question:

https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters

Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are
MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may
collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier.

I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then possibly
the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to determine
the suitability.
Restricting airflow does NOT overload a blower motor. Restricted
filters restrict the amount of air moved REDUCING load on the blower
motor. Youknew that and forgot - right "tekkie"?

If I am wrong then teach me. I have always been willing to listen.

--
Tekkie

On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 2:35:41 PM UTC-5, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 8:39:09 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 3:16:22 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote:
A dirty filter:

1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This could
result
in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle
time
(and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after the
heat
exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat).

2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional power
and
prematurely ages the blower.

A dirty filter does a couple of things.

It reduces air flow, perhaps very slightly to a lot.

It increases the efficiency of filtration. Dirty filters catch more dirt
and work better, up to the point where reduced air flow becomes a
problem.

If you reduce airflow enough, you might have coil freezeups or other
problems. Residential systems tend to need a steady airflow across the
coil, balanced to the temperature and the amount of charge. The old ones
aren't intelligent enough to adjust, I dunno about more recent ones.

If your filter is dirty enough, theoretically it might rupture and spill
unfiltered air into the equipment. The purpose of a filter is mainly to
protect the equipment, not the humans. I haven't seen this happen in a
residential system but I have in a commercial one. So I don't know if
that's really a problem in a house.

I change my filter when I hear the sound in the return increase. That's
probably about 3 months or so, I don't keep track. I just cleaned my
refrigerator coils last night, they were caked with dust. (I have that
stupid double A coil setup, where you can only reach the outer two rows.)



I wonder why the refrigerator companies haven't designed in a filter?
Same problem here, the coils are tucked underneath, you can't get to
anything
more than the front of it to try to clean it. Not only would it be of
benefit to us, but it would be another revenue source for the companies,
selling the replacement filters. These suck in air at the worst place,
right at the floor surface where they pull in dust, pet hair, etc and
get dirty fast.

In reality you dont get an accumulation of muck around the fridge
compressor,

Compressor? It's the condenser coils fool.



essentially because air isnt blown over the exposed coils
at the back of the fridge or freezer, they are cooled by convection.

Maybe on your old hillbilly fridge. On my modern fridge, like the other
poster has too, the condenser coils are underneath and they use a fan
to draw air over it. Even basic cheap fridges and freezers don't have
exposed coils in the back anymore. That's so 60s.




You dont get an accumulation of muck even with frost free fridges and
freezers which blow the cold air thru the inside of the fridge or freezer..

The cold air path isn't the issue, fool. It's the ambient air being drawn
over the condenser coils.





The most you get with my fridge in very humid weather is a bit of a
burble when you close the door due to the feed of the water that
is condensed out of the air before the air is moved into the body
of the fridge being under the water surface in the bowl on top of the
compressor where it evaporates due to the compressor waste heat.

Burbles? Must have missed your meds again.

"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 2:35:41 PM UTC-5, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 8:39:09 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 3:16:22 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal
wrote:
A dirty filter:

1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This
could
result
in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle
time
(and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after
the
heat
exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat).

2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional
power
and
prematurely ages the blower.

A dirty filter does a couple of things.

It reduces air flow, perhaps very slightly to a lot.

It increases the efficiency of filtration. Dirty filters catch more
dirt
and work better, up to the point where reduced air flow becomes a
problem.

If you reduce airflow enough, you might have coil freezeups or other
problems. Residential systems tend to need a steady airflow across
the
coil, balanced to the temperature and the amount of charge. The old
ones
aren't intelligent enough to adjust, I dunno about more recent ones.

If your filter is dirty enough, theoretically it might rupture and
spill
unfiltered air into the equipment. The purpose of a filter is mainly
to
protect the equipment, not the humans. I haven't seen this happen in
a
residential system but I have in a commercial one. So I don't know if
that's really a problem in a house.

I change my filter when I hear the sound in the return increase.
That's
probably about 3 months or so, I don't keep track. I just cleaned my
refrigerator coils last night, they were caked with dust. (I have
that
stupid double A coil setup, where you can only reach the outer two
rows.)



I wonder why the refrigerator companies haven't designed in a filter?
Same problem here, the coils are tucked underneath, you can't get to
anything
more than the front of it to try to clean it. Not only would it be of
benefit to us, but it would be another revenue source for the
companies,
selling the replacement filters. These suck in air at the worst place,
right at the floor surface where they pull in dust, pet hair, etc and
get dirty fast.

In reality you dont get an accumulation of muck around the fridge
compressor,

Compressor? It's the condenser coils fool.

Thats part of the compressor, ****wit.

essentially because air isnt blown over the exposed coils at the
back of the fridge or freezer, they are cooled by convection.

Maybe on your old hillbilly fridge.

Nothing hillbilly about my fridge or freezer. They are
the latest pigeon pair, biggest you can buy, frost free.

On my modern fridge, like the other poster has too, the
condenser coils are underneath and they use a fan to
draw air over it. Even basic cheap fridges and freezers don't
have exposed coils in the back anymore. That's so 60s.

Still dont have a filter on the fan.

Or on the fan that blows freezing air into the fridge
or freezer with a frost free either and you dont get
any dirt blown into the fridge or freezer.

You dont get an accumulation of muck even with frost free fridges and
freezers which blow the cold air thru the inside of the fridge or
freezer.

The cold air path isn't the issue, fool.

Keep this **** up and your **** will be flushed where it belongs, ****wit.

It's the ambient air being drawn over the condenser coils.

But the same argument on the need for a filter applys even more
to the air blown into the fridge or freezer with a frost free, ****wit.

The most you get with my fridge in very humid weather is a bit of
a burble when you close the door due to the feed of the water that
is condensed out of the air before the air is moved into the body
of the fridge being under the water surface in the bowl on top of the
compressor where it evaporates due to the compressor waste heat.

Burbles? Must have missed your meds again.

What else are you going to call that, ****wit ?
Its rather more than just a bubbling noise
because its a much bigger pipe that resonates.