Wanted to check tire pressure and couldn't get valve cap off. Got
pliers and it turned but never came off. Noticed the whole stem was
rotating. (Had probably gone once or twice around by the time I noticed
it.)

Is this permitted? Tire is not going flat, but should I get a new valve
anyhow?

Or fill the place where it meets the rim with glue? What glue?


I got the cap off with a sharp knife and added a little air, which has
not gotten out yet. (Can a metal cap get stuck on like this plastic
one did? That would be a lot harder to cut off.)
--
Micky

https://youtu.be/CDjT1fhrs-A

On Tue, 15 Jan 2019 23:31:11 -0500, micky
wrote:

Wanted to check tire pressure and couldn't get valve cap off. Got
pliers and it turned but never came off. Noticed the whole stem was
rotating. (Had probably gone once or twice around by the time I noticed
it.)

Is this permitted? Tire is not going flat, but should I get a new valve
anyhow?

Or fill the place where it meets the rim with glue? What glue?


I got the cap off with a sharp knife and added a little air, which has
not gotten out yet. (Can a metal cap get stuck on like this plastic
one did? That would be a lot harder to cut off.)
Micky, Micky, Micky - you get yourself into the finest pickles,
don't ypou???

The valve sem is a pull-in friction fit seal. It HAS to be able to
turn. Aslong as it isn't leaking, don't worry about it.

However, you DO need to be able to remove the cap - - - -

Metal caps are MUCH more likely to stick to the brass thread of the
stem. Cut the old cap off completely and replace it with a new plastic
one. Put a wee touch of silicone grease on the thread to help keep it
from sticking again. (grease - NOT sealer -- - -)

I DO use metal caps, myself - and I DO lube them. - but plastic will
be just fine for you and be less likely to catch you again. While yoiu
are at it, remove and lightly lubricate the others too.

On 01/15/2019 09:31 PM, micky wrote:
Is this permitted? Tire is not going flat, but should I get a new valve
anyhow?

Pour a little soapy water around the stem. If you don't see bubbles
don't worry about it.

micky wrote

Wanted to check tire pressure and couldn't get valve cap off. Got pliers
and it turned but never came off. Noticed the whole stem was rotating.
(Had probably gone once or twice around by the time I noticed it.)

Is this permitted? Tire is not going flat, but should I get a new valve
anyhow?

Yes, if only because it will then be possible to check the tire pressure
again.

Or fill the place where it meets the rim with glue? What glue?

No harm in trying superglue.

I got the cap off with a sharp knife and added a
little air, which has not gotten out yet. (Can a
metal cap get stuck on like this plastic one did?

Yes, they tend to corrode more.

That would be a lot harder to cut off.)

Yes.

On Wed, 16 Jan 2019 17:20:14 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rot Speed,
the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Yes

HAHAHAAA!!

Yes

HAHAHAAA!!

Yes.

HAHAHAAA!!

Are you trying to correct your notorious "no's" now, senile Ozzie troll? LOL

--
Java Jive to senile Rot:
You're getting there, it's clear that you've now reached the level of
"Nyah nyah nanyah nyah!", but surely you can be even more juvenile than
that?
MID:

On 01/15/2019 10:07 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
I DO use metal caps, myself - and I DO lube them. - but plastic will
be just fine for you and be less likely to catch you again. While yoiu
are at it, remove and lightly lubricate the others too.

I prefer the metal variety with the slot to remove the valve stem.
You're right though, considering it's micky a set of those little
plastic dice cubes will be fine. After all, everything he does is like
rolling the dice.

On Wednesday, January 16, 2019 at 12:08:05 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 15 Jan 2019 23:31:11 -0500, micky
wrote:

Wanted to check tire pressure and couldn't get valve cap off. Got
pliers and it turned but never came off. Noticed the whole stem was
rotating. (Had probably gone once or twice around by the time I noticed
it.)

Is this permitted? Tire is not going flat, but should I get a new valve
anyhow?

Or fill the place where it meets the rim with glue? What glue?


I got the cap off with a sharp knife and added a little air, which has
not gotten out yet. (Can a metal cap get stuck on like this plastic
one did? That would be a lot harder to cut off.)
Micky, Micky, Micky - you get yourself into the finest pickles,
don't ypou???

The valve sem is a pull-in friction fit seal. It HAS to be able to
turn. Aslong as it isn't leaking, don't worry about it.


It's true that it's a pull in friction fit, but I've never seen one turn
when trying to remove the valve cap, valve, etc. Micky must be out of
friction.

rbowman posted for all of us...



On 01/15/2019 10:07 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
I DO use metal caps, myself - and I DO lube them. - but plastic will
be just fine for you and be less likely to catch you again. While yoiu
are at it, remove and lightly lubricate the others too.

I prefer the metal variety with the slot to remove the valve stem.
You're right though, considering it's micky a set of those little
plastic dice cubes will be fine. After all, everything he does is like
rolling the dice.

Valve stems are brass while metal caps are aluminum (IIRC) therefore
corrosion takes place. Use a plastic cap or anti-seize. IDK if silicone
grease will work. Metal caps have to be slotted - with a Dremel or similar
tool to allow them to expand and break the corrosion to be removed if stuck.
Try to keep thread damage to a minimum. Remember valve caps seal at the top
of the valve stem and the inner ring of the cap, that is why metals caps
have rubber seals on the inside.

--
Tekkie

On Sat, 19 Jan 2019 16:59:49 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:

rbowman posted for all of us...



On 01/15/2019 10:07 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
I DO use metal caps, myself - and I DO lube them. - but plastic will
be just fine for you and be less likely to catch you again. While yoiu
are at it, remove and lightly lubricate the others too.

I prefer the metal variety with the slot to remove the valve stem.
You're right though, considering it's micky a set of those little
plastic dice cubes will be fine. After all, everything he does is like
rolling the dice.

Valve stems are brass while metal caps are aluminum (IIRC) therefore
corrosion takes place. Use a plastic cap or anti-seize. IDK if silicone
grease will work. Metal caps have to be slotted - with a Dremel or similar
tool to allow them to expand and break the corrosion to be removed if stuck.
Try to keep thread damage to a minimum. Remember valve caps seal at the top
of the valve stem and the inner ring of the cap, that is why metals caps
have rubber seals on the inside.
SOME metal caps are aluminum. Some are zinc.Some are actually steel
or stainless Some are brass.
Some brass are tinned, some are raw.Some are nickel plated.

Silicone grease actsas a dialectric - uncoupling the 2 metals in the
case of non-brass caps. It also seals the threads from moisure.

On 01/19/2019 02:59 PM, Tekkie® wrote:
Valve stems are brass while metal caps are aluminum (IIRC) therefore
corrosion takes place. Use a plastic cap or anti-seize. IDK if silicone
grease will work.

I'm too lazy to go wandering around in the dark with a magnet but I
believe these are steel:

https://shop.slime.com/collections/t...over-valve-cap

I have gotten similar plastic caps on prefilled Slime tubes so they must
be available someplace. I've got to say that for all the vehicular
annoyances I've encountered in the past 60 years or so, having a valve
stem cap seized to the valve stem hasn't been one of them. Maybe it has
something to do with checking the tire pressure more than every other year.

On Sat, 19 Jan 2019 19:46:02 -0700, rbowman
wrote:

On 01/19/2019 02:59 PM, Tekkie® wrote:
Valve stems are brass while metal caps are aluminum (IIRC) therefore
corrosion takes place. Use a plastic cap or anti-seize. IDK if silicone
grease will work.

I'm too lazy to go wandering around in the dark with a magnet but I
believe these are steel:

https://shop.slime.com/collections/t...over-valve-cap

I have gotten similar plastic caps on prefilled Slime tubes so they must
be available someplace. I've got to say that for all the vehicular
annoyances I've encountered in the past 60 years or so, having a valve
stem cap seized to the valve stem hasn't been one of them. Maybe it has
something to do with checking the tire pressure more than every other year.


MOST of those are brass or copper, often plated with tin or nickel.
All that I have used in the last 20 or more years are brass.
Some may also be aluminum
I have seen a few in steel - some in stainless - but most of them were
over 25 years ago.
It's been a LONG time since I've seen a rusted one.
Most of the non-tool type today are plastic or aluminum, but some of
them ARE plated steel (Slime's dome caps are advertized as steel)

On Saturday, January 19, 2019 at 9:36:15 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 19 Jan 2019 16:59:49 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:

rbowman posted for all of us...



On 01/15/2019 10:07 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
I DO use metal caps, myself - and I DO lube them. - but plastic will
be just fine for you and be less likely to catch you again. While yoiu
are at it, remove and lightly lubricate the others too.

I prefer the metal variety with the slot to remove the valve stem.
You're right though, considering it's micky a set of those little
plastic dice cubes will be fine. After all, everything he does is like
rolling the dice.

Valve stems are brass while metal caps are aluminum (IIRC) therefore
corrosion takes place. Use a plastic cap or anti-seize. IDK if silicone
grease will work. Metal caps have to be slotted - with a Dremel or similar
tool to allow them to expand and break the corrosion to be removed if stuck.
Try to keep thread damage to a minimum. Remember valve caps seal at the top
of the valve stem and the inner ring of the cap, that is why metals caps
have rubber seals on the inside.
SOME metal caps are aluminum. Some are zinc.Some are actually steel
or stainless Some are brass.
Some brass are tinned, some are raw.Some are nickel plated.

Silicone grease actsas a dialectric - uncoupling the 2 metals in the
case of non-brass caps. It also seals the threads from moisure.

Last part is wrong. Grease doesn't uncouple anything. In fact, it's used
in connectors to prevent corrosion to make better electrical contact.
It does that by covering the metal of the connector in grease that
protects most of it and in the area where the metal to metal contact
occurs, the grease gets pushed out by the pressure of the connector,
allowing direct metal to metal contact. If it didn't, then putting
dielectric grease on auto connectors and the like would stop them
from working. The same thing will happen with a metal valve cap.
As an aside, you folks can sure come up with some winners. I've never
had a valve cap problem in my life or a rotating valve stem in a wheel
either. And now we're talking about galvanic corrosion?