Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,279
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

So, about six months ago I reported on by success fixing the leaf blower.
That had a bad carb and stuck piston ring. So, I finally decided to do the
same with the Troy-Bilt convertible weed whacker. (It has a shaft that
converts between whacker and a lawn edger widget). It hasn't run in a
decade. IT is still in really good shape, wasn't heavily used.

I took the carb apart and first thing, the fuel hoses were shot, disintegrating.
The carb had a little bit of fuel gunk in it, not surprising since it was left
with fuel to evaporate all that time. I fully disassembled it, except for
removing one welch plug. Sprayed it with carb cleaner, blew it out with
compressed air, rinsed the fuel tank, cleaned the fuel filter. I thought
I'd have to get new fuel lines, but then I realized it was the same size
as the fuel line I had bought for the leaf blower! So, I checked for
compression with my finger, pulled the plug and checked for spark, put
the new hose in, put it back together. Started on the first pull.

I revved it up, all was good. But then when run at high speed it starts
to struggle, like it's not getting gas, then it quits. Put the choke
on give it a pull or two, and it starts right back up. And that is
what it was doing a decade ago when it wouldn't run! Doh! So now I'm
thinking it's likely the primer bulb. It seems to have a lot of air,
like 50% in it when it quits. Also, pumping the bulb, I can watch fuel
in the lines and it looks like it moves back and forth, instead of in
one direction. I'm thinking that it probably has a check valve in it
that's kaput and it's probably also leaking air. But there is no sign
of leaking any fuel. Being old, it should be replaced and I have one
on order. But in the meantime, some questions:

This bulb is separate from the carb. Do they typically have a check valve
in them? There was a little plastic widget in the fuel line, but on the
parts diagram it calls it a "connector" and from the size and shape, I
think that's all it is. I didn't use it, opting to just run one length
of fuel line instead. I think it's purpose is just that it's a bit easier
to put together with two pieces of line and then join them. But since
I don't have the new primer bulb, I'm thinking that I will get it fired
up, then remove the primer bulb and bypass it with that old connector.
I figure once it's full of fuel and good to go, it doesn't need the primer
and I can find out for sure if it is the primer without waiting for the
new one. Does that sound like it should work?



  #2   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 14,141
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 07:11:22 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

So, about six months ago I reported on by success fixing the leaf blower.
That had a bad carb and stuck piston ring. So, I finally decided to do the
same with the Troy-Bilt convertible weed whacker. (It has a shaft that
converts between whacker and a lawn edger widget). It hasn't run in a
decade. IT is still in really good shape, wasn't heavily used.

I took the carb apart and first thing, the fuel hoses were shot, disintegrating.
The carb had a little bit of fuel gunk in it, not surprising since it was left
with fuel to evaporate all that time. I fully disassembled it, except for
removing one welch plug. Sprayed it with carb cleaner, blew it out with
compressed air, rinsed the fuel tank, cleaned the fuel filter. I thought
I'd have to get new fuel lines, but then I realized it was the same size
as the fuel line I had bought for the leaf blower! So, I checked for
compression with my finger, pulled the plug and checked for spark, put
the new hose in, put it back together. Started on the first pull.

I revved it up, all was good. But then when run at high speed it starts
to struggle, like it's not getting gas, then it quits. Put the choke
on give it a pull or two, and it starts right back up. And that is
what it was doing a decade ago when it wouldn't run! Doh! So now I'm
thinking it's likely the primer bulb. It seems to have a lot of air,
like 50% in it when it quits. Also, pumping the bulb, I can watch fuel
in the lines and it looks like it moves back and forth, instead of in
one direction. I'm thinking that it probably has a check valve in it
that's kaput and it's probably also leaking air. But there is no sign
of leaking any fuel. Being old, it should be replaced and I have one
on order. But in the meantime, some questions:

This bulb is separate from the carb. Do they typically have a check valve
in them? There was a little plastic widget in the fuel line, but on the
parts diagram it calls it a "connector" and from the size and shape, I
think that's all it is. I didn't use it, opting to just run one length
of fuel line instead. I think it's purpose is just that it's a bit easier
to put together with two pieces of line and then join them. But since
I don't have the new primer bulb, I'm thinking that I will get it fired
up, then remove the primer bulb and bypass it with that old connector.
I figure once it's full of fuel and good to go, it doesn't need the primer
and I can find out for sure if it is the primer without waiting for the
new one. Does that sound like it should work?




The check valve is in the carburetor if this is the typical Walbro
deal. That is the flat mylar piece under the big screw. It is not
unusual to see gas going both ways but more should be going in one
direction. You can usually buy the whole carb for a few bucks more
than the kit.
Do you have the adjusting tool? Sometimes all you have to do is run
the screws in and out a little to dislodge something stuck in there,
Maybe remove the screw and blow it out, then readjust.
  #3   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,279
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 12:29:44 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 07:11:22 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

So, about six months ago I reported on by success fixing the leaf blower.
That had a bad carb and stuck piston ring. So, I finally decided to do the
same with the Troy-Bilt convertible weed whacker. (It has a shaft that
converts between whacker and a lawn edger widget). It hasn't run in a
decade. IT is still in really good shape, wasn't heavily used.

I took the carb apart and first thing, the fuel hoses were shot, disintegrating.
The carb had a little bit of fuel gunk in it, not surprising since it was left
with fuel to evaporate all that time. I fully disassembled it, except for
removing one welch plug. Sprayed it with carb cleaner, blew it out with
compressed air, rinsed the fuel tank, cleaned the fuel filter. I thought
I'd have to get new fuel lines, but then I realized it was the same size
as the fuel line I had bought for the leaf blower! So, I checked for
compression with my finger, pulled the plug and checked for spark, put
the new hose in, put it back together. Started on the first pull.

I revved it up, all was good. But then when run at high speed it starts
to struggle, like it's not getting gas, then it quits. Put the choke
on give it a pull or two, and it starts right back up. And that is
what it was doing a decade ago when it wouldn't run! Doh! So now I'm
thinking it's likely the primer bulb. It seems to have a lot of air,
like 50% in it when it quits. Also, pumping the bulb, I can watch fuel
in the lines and it looks like it moves back and forth, instead of in
one direction. I'm thinking that it probably has a check valve in it
that's kaput and it's probably also leaking air. But there is no sign
of leaking any fuel. Being old, it should be replaced and I have one
on order. But in the meantime, some questions:

This bulb is separate from the carb. Do they typically have a check valve
in them? There was a little plastic widget in the fuel line, but on the
parts diagram it calls it a "connector" and from the size and shape, I
think that's all it is. I didn't use it, opting to just run one length
of fuel line instead. I think it's purpose is just that it's a bit easier
to put together with two pieces of line and then join them. But since
I don't have the new primer bulb, I'm thinking that I will get it fired
up, then remove the primer bulb and bypass it with that old connector.
I figure once it's full of fuel and good to go, it doesn't need the primer
and I can find out for sure if it is the primer without waiting for the
new one. Does that sound like it should work?




The check valve is in the carburetor if this is the typical Walbro
deal.


It's a ZAMA, China's finest.


That is the flat mylar piece under the big screw. It is not
unusual to see gas going both ways but more should be going in one
direction. You can usually buy the whole carb for a few bucks more
than the kit.


This is a fancier one, they call it quick start or something.
It has what amounts to a choke knob that's part of the carb that
connects to a red know that comes out of the house. To start it,
you twist that knob that works against a spring and locks. Once
it's started, first time you give it throttle, it automatically
releases the choke widget. The choke isn't the butterfly type either,
it works a valve inside the carb. Funny thing, according to the part
numbering, I see that same carb come up without the quick start gizmo
and with it. Without it, it's a $15 carb from China. With it, it's
a $35 carb.




Do you have the adjusting tool? Sometimes all you have to do is run
the screws in and out a little to dislodge something stuck in there,
Maybe remove the screw and blow it out, then readjust.


I don't have the tools and didn't remove those screws. You're right,
I said I cleaned it all out except for what was behind one welch plug,
but I didn't remove the those needle valves either. But, I don't think
it has anything to do with the problem. When it runs, it runs perfectly,
max RPM, goes like hell. But then after 20 secs to a minute it starves
out like it's not getting gas. I'm betting it;s that bulb. I found the
connector from the old hose, pulled it off, it's like I thought, just
that, essentially a nipple. I'm going to use that to bypass the bulb.

If I get to it. I just got a rope over a 3" tree limb that's 25+ ft in
the air. Now I have the rope saw and have to cut it off, back and forth
we go.....

  #4   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 14,141
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 10:40:36 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 12:29:44 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 07:11:22 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

So, about six months ago I reported on by success fixing the leaf blower.
That had a bad carb and stuck piston ring. So, I finally decided to do the
same with the Troy-Bilt convertible weed whacker. (It has a shaft that
converts between whacker and a lawn edger widget). It hasn't run in a
decade. IT is still in really good shape, wasn't heavily used.

I took the carb apart and first thing, the fuel hoses were shot, disintegrating.
The carb had a little bit of fuel gunk in it, not surprising since it was left
with fuel to evaporate all that time. I fully disassembled it, except for
removing one welch plug. Sprayed it with carb cleaner, blew it out with
compressed air, rinsed the fuel tank, cleaned the fuel filter. I thought
I'd have to get new fuel lines, but then I realized it was the same size
as the fuel line I had bought for the leaf blower! So, I checked for
compression with my finger, pulled the plug and checked for spark, put
the new hose in, put it back together. Started on the first pull.

I revved it up, all was good. But then when run at high speed it starts
to struggle, like it's not getting gas, then it quits. Put the choke
on give it a pull or two, and it starts right back up. And that is
what it was doing a decade ago when it wouldn't run! Doh! So now I'm
thinking it's likely the primer bulb. It seems to have a lot of air,
like 50% in it when it quits. Also, pumping the bulb, I can watch fuel
in the lines and it looks like it moves back and forth, instead of in
one direction. I'm thinking that it probably has a check valve in it
that's kaput and it's probably also leaking air. But there is no sign
of leaking any fuel. Being old, it should be replaced and I have one
on order. But in the meantime, some questions:

This bulb is separate from the carb. Do they typically have a check valve
in them? There was a little plastic widget in the fuel line, but on the
parts diagram it calls it a "connector" and from the size and shape, I
think that's all it is. I didn't use it, opting to just run one length
of fuel line instead. I think it's purpose is just that it's a bit easier
to put together with two pieces of line and then join them. But since
I don't have the new primer bulb, I'm thinking that I will get it fired
up, then remove the primer bulb and bypass it with that old connector.
I figure once it's full of fuel and good to go, it doesn't need the primer
and I can find out for sure if it is the primer without waiting for the
new one. Does that sound like it should work?




The check valve is in the carburetor if this is the typical Walbro
deal.


It's a ZAMA, China's finest.


That is the flat mylar piece under the big screw. It is not
unusual to see gas going both ways but more should be going in one
direction. You can usually buy the whole carb for a few bucks more
than the kit.


This is a fancier one, they call it quick start or something.
It has what amounts to a choke knob that's part of the carb that
connects to a red know that comes out of the house. To start it,
you twist that knob that works against a spring and locks. Once
it's started, first time you give it throttle, it automatically
releases the choke widget. The choke isn't the butterfly type either,
it works a valve inside the carb. Funny thing, according to the part
numbering, I see that same carb come up without the quick start gizmo
and with it. Without it, it's a $15 carb from China. With it, it's
a $35 carb.




Do you have the adjusting tool? Sometimes all you have to do is run
the screws in and out a little to dislodge something stuck in there,
Maybe remove the screw and blow it out, then readjust.


I don't have the tools and didn't remove those screws. You're right,
I said I cleaned it all out except for what was behind one welch plug,
but I didn't remove the those needle valves either. But, I don't think
it has anything to do with the problem. When it runs, it runs perfectly,
max RPM, goes like hell. But then after 20 secs to a minute it starves
out like it's not getting gas. I'm betting it;s that bulb. I found the
connector from the old hose, pulled it off, it's like I thought, just
that, essentially a nipple. I'm going to use that to bypass the bulb.

If I get to it. I just got a rope over a 3" tree limb that's 25+ ft in
the air. Now I have the rope saw and have to cut it off, back and forth
we go.....


There is also going to be a filter in the tank that may be plugged up.
It is on the end of the fuel hose.
Drain the tank and shake it out through the filler hole.
  #5   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,279
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 1:40:40 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

OK, so here's the latest. Upon looking at the plumbing, I realized
that the primer bulb, even if it's leaking, can't be the problem.
It's on the after side of the carb. Fuel flows from the tank,
to the carb, out the carb, to the primer bulb suctions side, out
the primer bulb and back to the tank via the return line.

But, just to be sure, I did bypass it and the symptoms don't change.
Starts right up idles, runs up as you give it throttle, but at speed
after about 15 seconds, it just dies out. Further suspecting a fuel
problem, I tried running it with the return hose disconnected.
While it's running, no gas is coming out of the return. So, logically
what's happening, it's barely getting enough gas to run and when I
advance the throttle, there isn't enough so it quits. This is the
same problem it had ten years ago, when I gave up on it.

So, the only remaining two possibilites a

1 - The carb isn't pumping properly

2 - The fuel filter in the tank is clogged.


The fuel filter, I had out. It had a kind of red, oily look to it, I
presume from the remaining gas evaporating over ten years and the oil
and some residue being left behind. I sprayed it out with carb cleaner,
blew it out with compressed air and it looks OK from what I can tell.
I doubt that's the problem, but it's still possible that it's partially
clogged and can't flow enough. I will diagnose further.

The carb, IDK. Taking it apart it looked OK, a little residue that came
right out, no corrosion. I'm no ace with regular carbs, let alone these
two stroke gizmos. It has two plastic gaskets, one on each side. I
guess one or both vibrate to pump the fuel? One has a dime size dome
to it of the same material, no metal. The one on the other side has a
nickel size piece of
metal in the middle. IDK how flexible they are supposed to be, if they
can stretch and no longer work, etc. All I know is there isn't any
cracking, no missing pieces, they look OK, so what's wrong?

Here is a link to a rebuild kit on Ebay. The two plastic diaphragm gizmos
in mine are the two on the left side of the first/main photo. The other
similar ones are for other models. I guess I can
buy a rebuild kit. All the other pieces in mine, eg the valve, spring, etc
in that kit in mine look OK. Is there anything I should look for in those
two parts that indicate they are bad and the source of my problem?

Another question, on welch plugs, I remember on a Tecumseh, the service
manual said that after you put them in you should coat them with nail polish.
I did that. Seemed kind of nuts, like you'd think gas would dissolve it,
no? What are you supposed to do with welch plugs after you replace them?

I guess another option is just shell out $35 for a whole new carb.

TIA for any help.



  #6   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 14,141
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 13:32:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 1:40:40 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

OK, so here's the latest. Upon looking at the plumbing, I realized
that the primer bulb, even if it's leaking, can't be the problem.
It's on the after side of the carb. Fuel flows from the tank,
to the carb, out the carb, to the primer bulb suctions side, out
the primer bulb and back to the tank via the return line.

But, just to be sure, I did bypass it and the symptoms don't change.
Starts right up idles, runs up as you give it throttle, but at speed
after about 15 seconds, it just dies out. Further suspecting a fuel
problem, I tried running it with the return hose disconnected.
While it's running, no gas is coming out of the return. So, logically
what's happening, it's barely getting enough gas to run and when I
advance the throttle, there isn't enough so it quits. This is the
same problem it had ten years ago, when I gave up on it.

So, the only remaining two possibilites a

1 - The carb isn't pumping properly

2 - The fuel filter in the tank is clogged.


The fuel filter, I had out. It had a kind of red, oily look to it, I
presume from the remaining gas evaporating over ten years and the oil
and some residue being left behind. I sprayed it out with carb cleaner,
blew it out with compressed air and it looks OK from what I can tell.
I doubt that's the problem, but it's still possible that it's partially
clogged and can't flow enough. I will diagnose further.

The carb, IDK. Taking it apart it looked OK, a little residue that came
right out, no corrosion. I'm no ace with regular carbs, let alone these
two stroke gizmos. It has two plastic gaskets, one on each side. I
guess one or both vibrate to pump the fuel? One has a dime size dome
to it of the same material, no metal. The one on the other side has a
nickel size piece of
metal in the middle. IDK how flexible they are supposed to be, if they
can stretch and no longer work, etc. All I know is there isn't any
cracking, no missing pieces, they look OK, so what's wrong?

Here is a link to a rebuild kit on Ebay. The two plastic diaphragm gizmos
in mine are the two on the left side of the first/main photo. The other
similar ones are for other models. I guess I can
buy a rebuild kit. All the other pieces in mine, eg the valve, spring, etc
in that kit in mine look OK. Is there anything I should look for in those
two parts that indicate they are bad and the source of my problem?

Another question, on welch plugs, I remember on a Tecumseh, the service
manual said that after you put them in you should coat them with nail polish.
I did that. Seemed kind of nuts, like you'd think gas would dissolve it,
no? What are you supposed to do with welch plugs after you replace them?

I guess another option is just shell out $35 for a whole new carb.

TIA for any help.


Is this the regular Walbro. One big screw with the mylar flappers and
4 small screws on the other side with a rubber looking diaphragm? If
so the diaphragm is the fuel pump and the mylar deal is the check
valves. It is a pretty simple thing. Manifold vacuum operates the
diaphragm and the check valves keep the fuel going the right way. You
can try a kit but I usually just throw a carburetor at these things. I
am about 50:50 with the kit so it is a wash.
You should get the adjusting tool tho. Sometimes you can just tweak
the HS needle and get them running right. I have a weed whacker that I
screw with all the time. Some days it runs a half a turn more open and
the next time I use it I have to close it a half turn. I also like the
manual choke because you can play with that to see if it is too rich
or too lean. Some days that weed whacker will only run with about 1/4
choke, no matter what I do with the jet. The problem is I really don't
use it much.
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,279
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 4:32:59 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 1:40:40 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

OK, so here's the latest. Upon looking at the plumbing, I realized
that the primer bulb, even if it's leaking, can't be the problem.
It's on the after side of the carb. Fuel flows from the tank,
to the carb, out the carb, to the primer bulb suctions side, out
the primer bulb and back to the tank via the return line.

But, just to be sure, I did bypass it and the symptoms don't change.
Starts right up idles, runs up as you give it throttle, but at speed
after about 15 seconds, it just dies out. Further suspecting a fuel
problem, I tried running it with the return hose disconnected.
While it's running, no gas is coming out of the return. So, logically
what's happening, it's barely getting enough gas to run and when I
advance the throttle, there isn't enough so it quits. This is the
same problem it had ten years ago, when I gave up on it.

So, the only remaining two possibilites a

1 - The carb isn't pumping properly

2 - The fuel filter in the tank is clogged.


The fuel filter, I had out. It had a kind of red, oily look to it, I
presume from the remaining gas evaporating over ten years and the oil
and some residue being left behind. I sprayed it out with carb cleaner,
blew it out with compressed air and it looks OK from what I can tell.
I doubt that's the problem, but it's still possible that it's partially
clogged and can't flow enough. I will diagnose further.

The carb, IDK. Taking it apart it looked OK, a little residue that came
right out, no corrosion. I'm no ace with regular carbs, let alone these
two stroke gizmos. It has two plastic gaskets, one on each side. I
guess one or both vibrate to pump the fuel? One has a dime size dome
to it of the same material, no metal. The one on the other side has a
nickel size piece of
metal in the middle. IDK how flexible they are supposed to be, if they
can stretch and no longer work, etc. All I know is there isn't any
cracking, no missing pieces, they look OK, so what's wrong?

Here is a link to a rebuild kit on Ebay. The two plastic diaphragm gizmos
in mine are the two on the left side of the first/main photo. The other
similar ones are for other models. I guess I can
buy a rebuild kit. All the other pieces in mine, eg the valve, spring, etc
in that kit in mine look OK. Is there anything I should look for in those
two parts that indicate they are bad and the source of my problem?

Another question, on welch plugs, I remember on a Tecumseh, the service
manual said that after you put them in you should coat them with nail polish.
I did that. Seemed kind of nuts, like you'd think gas would dissolve it,
no? What are you supposed to do with welch plugs after you replace them?

I guess another option is just shell out $35 for a whole new carb.

TIA for any help.


To update one more time, I tried using the prime bulb to pump fuel.
It seems to do a lot of sloshing back and forth, which leads me to
believe there is a bad check valve, either in the bulb or carb, IDK
where it is. But it does pump some, and I tried to imitate a check
valve by using a pair of plier to clamp off the hose to the carb
while I depress the bulb, then take the pliers off, let it suck fuel.
There is always air in the line coming from the carb and no air in
the supply line from the tank to the carb. So, I think we can rule
out a filter issue, that wouldn't put air in there. The lines are
all new, so the only thing left is somehow air is getting in inside
the carb. But maybe that's normal, but I wouldn't think so. Plus
with the real problem being fuel starvation, it's consistent with
the problem being the fuel pump in the carb.

  #8   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,279
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 4:57:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 13:32:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 1:40:40 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

OK, so here's the latest. Upon looking at the plumbing, I realized
that the primer bulb, even if it's leaking, can't be the problem.
It's on the after side of the carb. Fuel flows from the tank,
to the carb, out the carb, to the primer bulb suctions side, out
the primer bulb and back to the tank via the return line.

But, just to be sure, I did bypass it and the symptoms don't change.
Starts right up idles, runs up as you give it throttle, but at speed
after about 15 seconds, it just dies out. Further suspecting a fuel
problem, I tried running it with the return hose disconnected.
While it's running, no gas is coming out of the return. So, logically
what's happening, it's barely getting enough gas to run and when I
advance the throttle, there isn't enough so it quits. This is the
same problem it had ten years ago, when I gave up on it.

So, the only remaining two possibilites a

1 - The carb isn't pumping properly

2 - The fuel filter in the tank is clogged.


The fuel filter, I had out. It had a kind of red, oily look to it, I
presume from the remaining gas evaporating over ten years and the oil
and some residue being left behind. I sprayed it out with carb cleaner,
blew it out with compressed air and it looks OK from what I can tell.
I doubt that's the problem, but it's still possible that it's partially
clogged and can't flow enough. I will diagnose further.

The carb, IDK. Taking it apart it looked OK, a little residue that came
right out, no corrosion. I'm no ace with regular carbs, let alone these
two stroke gizmos. It has two plastic gaskets, one on each side. I
guess one or both vibrate to pump the fuel? One has a dime size dome
to it of the same material, no metal. The one on the other side has a
nickel size piece of
metal in the middle. IDK how flexible they are supposed to be, if they
can stretch and no longer work, etc. All I know is there isn't any
cracking, no missing pieces, they look OK, so what's wrong?

Here is a link to a rebuild kit on Ebay. The two plastic diaphragm gizmos
in mine are the two on the left side of the first/main photo. The other
similar ones are for other models. I guess I can
buy a rebuild kit. All the other pieces in mine, eg the valve, spring, etc
in that kit in mine look OK. Is there anything I should look for in those
two parts that indicate they are bad and the source of my problem?

Another question, on welch plugs, I remember on a Tecumseh, the service
manual said that after you put them in you should coat them with nail polish.
I did that. Seemed kind of nuts, like you'd think gas would dissolve it,
no? What are you supposed to do with welch plugs after you replace them?

I guess another option is just shell out $35 for a whole new carb.

TIA for any help.


Is this the regular Walbro.


It's a ZAMA used on Echo, MTD, Troy-Built, etc.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-Za...Dw0:rk:33:pf:0


Or just put 301821427313, which is the item number, in the ebay search bar.





One big screw with the mylar flappers and
4 small screws on the other side with a rubber looking diaphragm?


No, two screws on each side. The parts are shown in the rebuild kit
on Ebay. Sorry, I meant to give the link in the prior post:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-...n M:rk:5:pf:0

If that link doesn't work, just go to ebay and put the item number in
the search bar: 172218406466




so the diaphragm is the fuel pump and the mylar deal is the check
valves. It is a pretty simple thing. Manifold vacuum operates the
diaphragm and the check valves keep the fuel going the right way.


I guess that's what I don't understand. Those two plastic material
diaphragm things look OK to me. I wonder if there's some passage
that I didn't get to that's involved with pumping? I wouldn't
think so, the passages from the connection pipes going into the
interior are all clear. In my latest post, I said that it looks like
a lot of air is in the return line from the carb, which sounds like
something is hosed up, I would think it would be all gas.




You
can try a kit but I usually just throw a carburetor at these things. I
am about 50:50 with the kit so it is a wash.


Yes, I know what you're saying. There's so much going on inside that
damn thing.



You should get the adjusting tool tho. Sometimes you can just tweak
the HS needle and get them running right. I have a weed whacker that I
screw with all the time. Some days it runs a half a turn more open and
the next time I use it I have to close it a half turn. I also like the
manual choke because you can play with that to see if it is too rich
or too lean. Some days that weed whacker will only run with about 1/4
choke, no matter what I do with the jet. The problem is I really don't
use it much.


  #9   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 14,141
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 14:16:44 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 4:57:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 13:32:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 1:40:40 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

OK, so here's the latest. Upon looking at the plumbing, I realized
that the primer bulb, even if it's leaking, can't be the problem.
It's on the after side of the carb. Fuel flows from the tank,
to the carb, out the carb, to the primer bulb suctions side, out
the primer bulb and back to the tank via the return line.

But, just to be sure, I did bypass it and the symptoms don't change.
Starts right up idles, runs up as you give it throttle, but at speed
after about 15 seconds, it just dies out. Further suspecting a fuel
problem, I tried running it with the return hose disconnected.
While it's running, no gas is coming out of the return. So, logically
what's happening, it's barely getting enough gas to run and when I
advance the throttle, there isn't enough so it quits. This is the
same problem it had ten years ago, when I gave up on it.

So, the only remaining two possibilites a

1 - The carb isn't pumping properly

2 - The fuel filter in the tank is clogged.


The fuel filter, I had out. It had a kind of red, oily look to it, I
presume from the remaining gas evaporating over ten years and the oil
and some residue being left behind. I sprayed it out with carb cleaner,
blew it out with compressed air and it looks OK from what I can tell.
I doubt that's the problem, but it's still possible that it's partially
clogged and can't flow enough. I will diagnose further.

The carb, IDK. Taking it apart it looked OK, a little residue that came
right out, no corrosion. I'm no ace with regular carbs, let alone these
two stroke gizmos. It has two plastic gaskets, one on each side. I
guess one or both vibrate to pump the fuel? One has a dime size dome
to it of the same material, no metal. The one on the other side has a
nickel size piece of
metal in the middle. IDK how flexible they are supposed to be, if they
can stretch and no longer work, etc. All I know is there isn't any
cracking, no missing pieces, they look OK, so what's wrong?

Here is a link to a rebuild kit on Ebay. The two plastic diaphragm gizmos
in mine are the two on the left side of the first/main photo. The other
similar ones are for other models. I guess I can
buy a rebuild kit. All the other pieces in mine, eg the valve, spring, etc
in that kit in mine look OK. Is there anything I should look for in those
two parts that indicate they are bad and the source of my problem?

Another question, on welch plugs, I remember on a Tecumseh, the service
manual said that after you put them in you should coat them with nail polish.
I did that. Seemed kind of nuts, like you'd think gas would dissolve it,
no? What are you supposed to do with welch plugs after you replace them?

I guess another option is just shell out $35 for a whole new carb.

TIA for any help.


Is this the regular Walbro.


It's a ZAMA used on Echo, MTD, Troy-Built, etc.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-Za...Dw0:rk:33:pf:0


Or just put 301821427313, which is the item number, in the ebay search bar.





One big screw with the mylar flappers and
4 small screws on the other side with a rubber looking diaphragm?


No, two screws on each side. The parts are shown in the rebuild kit
on Ebay. Sorry, I meant to give the link in the prior post:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-...n M:rk:5:pf:0

If that link doesn't work, just go to ebay and put the item number in
the search bar: 172218406466




so the diaphragm is the fuel pump and the mylar deal is the check
valves. It is a pretty simple thing. Manifold vacuum operates the
diaphragm and the check valves keep the fuel going the right way.


I guess that's what I don't understand. Those two plastic material
diaphragm things look OK to me. I wonder if there's some passage
that I didn't get to that's involved with pumping? I wouldn't
think so, the passages from the connection pipes going into the
interior are all clear. In my latest post, I said that it looks like
a lot of air is in the return line from the carb, which sounds like
something is hosed up, I would think it would be all gas.




You
can try a kit but I usually just throw a carburetor at these things. I
am about 50:50 with the kit so it is a wash.


Yes, I know what you're saying. There's so much going on inside that
damn thing.



You should get the adjusting tool tho. Sometimes you can just tweak
the HS needle and get them running right. I have a weed whacker that I
screw with all the time. Some days it runs a half a turn more open and
the next time I use it I have to close it a half turn. I also like the
manual choke because you can play with that to see if it is too rich
or too lean. Some days that weed whacker will only run with about 1/4
choke, no matter what I do with the jet. The problem is I really don't
use it much.


I am not sure who is knocking whom off but they are very similar
carbs. On a Walbro there are 4 screws holding the sheet metal cover on
and one big screw holding the cast metal cover on.
The only difference in the models seems to be the main jet size.
They are so simple looking it is just frustrating why I can't fix one.
You are probably right, one passage is partially clogged. I have had
some luck using a piece of fuel hose sized to fit over the main jet
port in the venturi and blowing carb cleaner backward through the
system. Just be sure you have the carb body stripped when you are
blowing it out.
  #10   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,279
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 8:47:09 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 14:16:44 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 4:57:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 13:32:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 1:40:40 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

OK, so here's the latest. Upon looking at the plumbing, I realized
that the primer bulb, even if it's leaking, can't be the problem.
It's on the after side of the carb. Fuel flows from the tank,
to the carb, out the carb, to the primer bulb suctions side, out
the primer bulb and back to the tank via the return line.

But, just to be sure, I did bypass it and the symptoms don't change.
Starts right up idles, runs up as you give it throttle, but at speed
after about 15 seconds, it just dies out. Further suspecting a fuel
problem, I tried running it with the return hose disconnected.
While it's running, no gas is coming out of the return. So, logically
what's happening, it's barely getting enough gas to run and when I
advance the throttle, there isn't enough so it quits. This is the
same problem it had ten years ago, when I gave up on it.

So, the only remaining two possibilites a

1 - The carb isn't pumping properly

2 - The fuel filter in the tank is clogged.


The fuel filter, I had out. It had a kind of red, oily look to it, I
presume from the remaining gas evaporating over ten years and the oil
and some residue being left behind. I sprayed it out with carb cleaner,
blew it out with compressed air and it looks OK from what I can tell.
I doubt that's the problem, but it's still possible that it's partially
clogged and can't flow enough. I will diagnose further.

The carb, IDK. Taking it apart it looked OK, a little residue that came
right out, no corrosion. I'm no ace with regular carbs, let alone these
two stroke gizmos. It has two plastic gaskets, one on each side. I
guess one or both vibrate to pump the fuel? One has a dime size dome
to it of the same material, no metal. The one on the other side has a
nickel size piece of
metal in the middle. IDK how flexible they are supposed to be, if they
can stretch and no longer work, etc. All I know is there isn't any
cracking, no missing pieces, they look OK, so what's wrong?

Here is a link to a rebuild kit on Ebay. The two plastic diaphragm gizmos
in mine are the two on the left side of the first/main photo. The other
similar ones are for other models. I guess I can
buy a rebuild kit. All the other pieces in mine, eg the valve, spring, etc
in that kit in mine look OK. Is there anything I should look for in those
two parts that indicate they are bad and the source of my problem?

Another question, on welch plugs, I remember on a Tecumseh, the service
manual said that after you put them in you should coat them with nail polish.
I did that. Seemed kind of nuts, like you'd think gas would dissolve it,
no? What are you supposed to do with welch plugs after you replace them?

I guess another option is just shell out $35 for a whole new carb.

TIA for any help.

Is this the regular Walbro.


It's a ZAMA used on Echo, MTD, Troy-Built, etc.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-Za...Dw0:rk:33:pf:0


Or just put 301821427313, which is the item number, in the ebay search bar.





One big screw with the mylar flappers and
4 small screws on the other side with a rubber looking diaphragm?


No, two screws on each side. The parts are shown in the rebuild kit
on Ebay. Sorry, I meant to give the link in the prior post:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-...n M:rk:5:pf:0

If that link doesn't work, just go to ebay and put the item number in
the search bar: 172218406466




so the diaphragm is the fuel pump and the mylar deal is the check
valves. It is a pretty simple thing. Manifold vacuum operates the
diaphragm and the check valves keep the fuel going the right way.


I guess that's what I don't understand. Those two plastic material
diaphragm things look OK to me. I wonder if there's some passage
that I didn't get to that's involved with pumping? I wouldn't
think so, the passages from the connection pipes going into the
interior are all clear. In my latest post, I said that it looks like
a lot of air is in the return line from the carb, which sounds like
something is hosed up, I would think it would be all gas.




You
can try a kit but I usually just throw a carburetor at these things. I
am about 50:50 with the kit so it is a wash.


Yes, I know what you're saying. There's so much going on inside that
damn thing.



You should get the adjusting tool tho. Sometimes you can just tweak
the HS needle and get them running right. I have a weed whacker that I
screw with all the time. Some days it runs a half a turn more open and
the next time I use it I have to close it a half turn. I also like the
manual choke because you can play with that to see if it is too rich
or too lean. Some days that weed whacker will only run with about 1/4
choke, no matter what I do with the jet. The problem is I really don't
use it much.


I am not sure who is knocking whom off but they are very similar
carbs. On a Walbro there are 4 screws holding the sheet metal cover on
and one big screw holding the cast metal cover on.
The only difference in the models seems to be the main jet size.
They are so simple looking it is just frustrating why I can't fix one.
You are probably right, one passage is partially clogged. I have had
some luck using a piece of fuel hose sized to fit over the main jet
port in the venturi and blowing carb cleaner backward through the
system. Just be sure you have the carb body stripped when you are
blowing it out.


Well, guess what. I was going to pull the carb again and have another
look inside. I started to take it off and they have this curious flat
plate that's bolted to the carb face, using the same bolts that hold the
carb on. Never saw anything like it, wasn't sure what it's purpose is.
I noticed there was a bit of oil at the bottom of it, that also had oil
on it from years ago, when I first took it apart. So, after taking it
apart I took a closer look to see what that thing does. The only thing
I see is there is a hole coming out the top of the carb face, above the
carb throat, and a little channel machined out that goes from the hole
to the throat. The plate covers that channel. Remember this carb does
not have a conventional choke. Instead it has this knob you twist, that
lifts a valve. So, what I think happens is when the choke is on, the valve
allows additional gas to come out that hole, across the channel in the
face and down into the carb throat. On the parts diagram, they call
this mysterious plate the "choke plate", which confirms it's purpose.

Before removing the carb, I decided to run it with that plate off, to
see if I see any gas leaking out, etc. So, I put the two carb bolts
back in without the plate, started it up and it seems to be working
fine! I do smell gas though and it looks like gas might be dripping
down to below the carb face. Will have to take a better look today.
But my thought at this point is that the choke valve is leaking and it's
supplying excess gas when the choke is off. So it will start up cold
run for 15 secs, but eventually it craps out because it's too rich.
Taking that plate off,
instead of the gas going into the carb throat, maybe it's just dripping
outside the carb. That's the only explanation I can figure for what
I'm seeing. My main thought at this point is to put it together without
the choke plate and start using it. Then I can take apart that choke
knob/valve and inspect it again. It has what looks like a rubber cup
on the end that fits over some plastic doo dad inside the carb to form
the valve, I guess. I had it out and it looked OK to me, but maybe it's
shrunk or something.


  #11   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 804
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On 10/22/18 4:25 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 10:40:36 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 12:29:44 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 07:11:22 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

So, about six months ago I reported on by success fixing the leaf blower.
That had a bad carb and stuck piston ring. So, I finally decided to do the
same with the Troy-Bilt convertible weed whacker. (It has a shaft that
converts between whacker and a lawn edger widget). It hasn't run in a
decade. IT is still in really good shape, wasn't heavily used.

I took the carb apart and first thing, the fuel hoses were shot, disintegrating.
The carb had a little bit of fuel gunk in it, not surprising since it was left
with fuel to evaporate all that time. I fully disassembled it, except for
removing one welch plug. Sprayed it with carb cleaner, blew it out with
compressed air, rinsed the fuel tank, cleaned the fuel filter. I thought
I'd have to get new fuel lines, but then I realized it was the same size
as the fuel line I had bought for the leaf blower! So, I checked for
compression with my finger, pulled the plug and checked for spark, put
the new hose in, put it back together. Started on the first pull.

I revved it up, all was good. But then when run at high speed it starts
to struggle, like it's not getting gas, then it quits. Put the choke
on give it a pull or two, and it starts right back up. And that is
what it was doing a decade ago when it wouldn't run! Doh! So now I'm
thinking it's likely the primer bulb. It seems to have a lot of air,
like 50% in it when it quits. Also, pumping the bulb, I can watch fuel
in the lines and it looks like it moves back and forth, instead of in
one direction. I'm thinking that it probably has a check valve in it
that's kaput and it's probably also leaking air. But there is no sign
of leaking any fuel. Being old, it should be replaced and I have one
on order. But in the meantime, some questions:

This bulb is separate from the carb. Do they typically have a check valve
in them? There was a little plastic widget in the fuel line, but on the
parts diagram it calls it a "connector" and from the size and shape, I
think that's all it is. I didn't use it, opting to just run one length
of fuel line instead. I think it's purpose is just that it's a bit easier
to put together with two pieces of line and then join them. But since
I don't have the new primer bulb, I'm thinking that I will get it fired
up, then remove the primer bulb and bypass it with that old connector.
I figure once it's full of fuel and good to go, it doesn't need the primer
and I can find out for sure if it is the primer without waiting for the
new one. Does that sound like it should work?




The check valve is in the carburetor if this is the typical Walbro
deal.


It's a ZAMA, China's finest.


That is the flat mylar piece under the big screw. It is not
unusual to see gas going both ways but more should be going in one
direction. You can usually buy the whole carb for a few bucks more
than the kit.


This is a fancier one, they call it quick start or something.
It has what amounts to a choke knob that's part of the carb that
connects to a red know that comes out of the house. To start it,
you twist that knob that works against a spring and locks. Once
it's started, first time you give it throttle, it automatically
releases the choke widget. The choke isn't the butterfly type either,
it works a valve inside the carb. Funny thing, according to the part
numbering, I see that same carb come up without the quick start gizmo
and with it. Without it, it's a $15 carb from China. With it, it's
a $35 carb.




Do you have the adjusting tool? Sometimes all you have to do is run
the screws in and out a little to dislodge something stuck in there,
Maybe remove the screw and blow it out, then readjust.


I don't have the tools and didn't remove those screws. You're right,
I said I cleaned it all out except for what was behind one welch plug,
but I didn't remove the those needle valves either. But, I don't think
it has anything to do with the problem. When it runs, it runs perfectly,
max RPM, goes like hell. But then after 20 secs to a minute it starves
out like it's not getting gas. I'm betting it;s that bulb. I found the
connector from the old hose, pulled it off, it's like I thought, just
that, essentially a nipple. I'm going to use that to bypass the bulb.

If I get to it. I just got a rope over a 3" tree limb that's 25+ ft in
the air. Now I have the rope saw and have to cut it off, back and forth
we go.....


There is also going to be a filter in the tank that may be plugged up.
It is on the end of the fuel hose.
Drain the tank and shake it out through the filler hole.

....or just grab it with a stiff wire bent into a small hook at the end-
or use a similar tool- and pull it out.

--
The fastest way to stop a bad guy with a gun is a good guy with a gun.
  #12   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,279
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Tuesday, October 23, 2018 at 10:25:26 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 8:47:09 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 14:16:44 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 4:57:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 13:32:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 1:40:40 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

OK, so here's the latest. Upon looking at the plumbing, I realized
that the primer bulb, even if it's leaking, can't be the problem.
It's on the after side of the carb. Fuel flows from the tank,
to the carb, out the carb, to the primer bulb suctions side, out
the primer bulb and back to the tank via the return line.

But, just to be sure, I did bypass it and the symptoms don't change.
Starts right up idles, runs up as you give it throttle, but at speed
after about 15 seconds, it just dies out. Further suspecting a fuel
problem, I tried running it with the return hose disconnected.
While it's running, no gas is coming out of the return. So, logically
what's happening, it's barely getting enough gas to run and when I
advance the throttle, there isn't enough so it quits. This is the
same problem it had ten years ago, when I gave up on it.

So, the only remaining two possibilites a

1 - The carb isn't pumping properly

2 - The fuel filter in the tank is clogged.


The fuel filter, I had out. It had a kind of red, oily look to it, I
presume from the remaining gas evaporating over ten years and the oil
and some residue being left behind. I sprayed it out with carb cleaner,
blew it out with compressed air and it looks OK from what I can tell.
I doubt that's the problem, but it's still possible that it's partially
clogged and can't flow enough. I will diagnose further.

The carb, IDK. Taking it apart it looked OK, a little residue that came
right out, no corrosion. I'm no ace with regular carbs, let alone these
two stroke gizmos. It has two plastic gaskets, one on each side. I
guess one or both vibrate to pump the fuel? One has a dime size dome
to it of the same material, no metal. The one on the other side has a
nickel size piece of
metal in the middle. IDK how flexible they are supposed to be, if they
can stretch and no longer work, etc. All I know is there isn't any
cracking, no missing pieces, they look OK, so what's wrong?

Here is a link to a rebuild kit on Ebay. The two plastic diaphragm gizmos
in mine are the two on the left side of the first/main photo. The other
similar ones are for other models. I guess I can
buy a rebuild kit. All the other pieces in mine, eg the valve, spring, etc
in that kit in mine look OK. Is there anything I should look for in those
two parts that indicate they are bad and the source of my problem?

Another question, on welch plugs, I remember on a Tecumseh, the service
manual said that after you put them in you should coat them with nail polish.
I did that. Seemed kind of nuts, like you'd think gas would dissolve it,
no? What are you supposed to do with welch plugs after you replace them?

I guess another option is just shell out $35 for a whole new carb.

TIA for any help.

Is this the regular Walbro.

It's a ZAMA used on Echo, MTD, Troy-Built, etc.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-Za...Dw0:rk:33:pf:0


Or just put 301821427313, which is the item number, in the ebay search bar.





One big screw with the mylar flappers and
4 small screws on the other side with a rubber looking diaphragm?

No, two screws on each side. The parts are shown in the rebuild kit
on Ebay. Sorry, I meant to give the link in the prior post:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-...n M:rk:5:pf:0

If that link doesn't work, just go to ebay and put the item number in
the search bar: 172218406466




so the diaphragm is the fuel pump and the mylar deal is the check
valves. It is a pretty simple thing. Manifold vacuum operates the
diaphragm and the check valves keep the fuel going the right way.

I guess that's what I don't understand. Those two plastic material
diaphragm things look OK to me. I wonder if there's some passage
that I didn't get to that's involved with pumping? I wouldn't
think so, the passages from the connection pipes going into the
interior are all clear. In my latest post, I said that it looks like
a lot of air is in the return line from the carb, which sounds like
something is hosed up, I would think it would be all gas.




You
can try a kit but I usually just throw a carburetor at these things. I
am about 50:50 with the kit so it is a wash.

Yes, I know what you're saying. There's so much going on inside that
damn thing.



You should get the adjusting tool tho. Sometimes you can just tweak
the HS needle and get them running right. I have a weed whacker that I
screw with all the time. Some days it runs a half a turn more open and
the next time I use it I have to close it a half turn. I also like the
manual choke because you can play with that to see if it is too rich
or too lean. Some days that weed whacker will only run with about 1/4
choke, no matter what I do with the jet. The problem is I really don't
use it much.


I am not sure who is knocking whom off but they are very similar
carbs. On a Walbro there are 4 screws holding the sheet metal cover on
and one big screw holding the cast metal cover on.
The only difference in the models seems to be the main jet size.
They are so simple looking it is just frustrating why I can't fix one.
You are probably right, one passage is partially clogged. I have had
some luck using a piece of fuel hose sized to fit over the main jet
port in the venturi and blowing carb cleaner backward through the
system. Just be sure you have the carb body stripped when you are
blowing it out.


Well, guess what. I was going to pull the carb again and have another
look inside. I started to take it off and they have this curious flat
plate that's bolted to the carb face, using the same bolts that hold the
carb on. Never saw anything like it, wasn't sure what it's purpose is.
I noticed there was a bit of oil at the bottom of it, that also had oil
on it from years ago, when I first took it apart. So, after taking it
apart I took a closer look to see what that thing does. The only thing
I see is there is a hole coming out the top of the carb face, above the
carb throat, and a little channel machined out that goes from the hole
to the throat. The plate covers that channel. Remember this carb does
not have a conventional choke. Instead it has this knob you twist, that
lifts a valve. So, what I think happens is when the choke is on, the valve
allows additional gas to come out that hole, across the channel in the
face and down into the carb throat. On the parts diagram, they call
this mysterious plate the "choke plate", which confirms it's purpose.

Before removing the carb, I decided to run it with that plate off, to
see if I see any gas leaking out, etc. So, I put the two carb bolts
back in without the plate, started it up and it seems to be working
fine! I do smell gas though and it looks like gas might be dripping
down to below the carb face. Will have to take a better look today.
But my thought at this point is that the choke valve is leaking and it's
supplying excess gas when the choke is off. So it will start up cold
run for 15 secs, but eventually it craps out because it's too rich.
Taking that plate off,
instead of the gas going into the carb throat, maybe it's just dripping
outside the carb. That's the only explanation I can figure for what
I'm seeing. My main thought at this point is to put it together without
the choke plate and start using it. Then I can take apart that choke
knob/valve and inspect it again. It has what looks like a rubber cup
on the end that fits over some plastic doo dad inside the carb to form
the valve, I guess. I had it out and it looked OK to me, but maybe it's
shrunk or something.


So, I determined that it runs better with that choke plate thing off.
But it still winds up crapping out. I actually edged about 7 ft of
sidewalk. I analyzed how that choke plate works together with the quick
start choke valve. It looks to me like that mysterious hole in the face
of the carb goes from the carb throat in front of the throttle butterfly
to the quick start valve, to the carb throat on the other side of the
butterfly. So, when the choke is activated, it forms a small path around
the butterfly. Once it starts and the choked comes off, the valve just
closes that path. It must be working. Why taking that flat plate that
just completes that path made it run better, IDK.

I was going to fiddle with the adjusting screws. These are some weird kind.
It looks like one, problem the main, can be turned with a screwdriver but
only for a limited distance. The other one, must be idle, can't be turned
at all. I assume if I break this plastic crap off that limits it all,
there are screws with some no-tamper head under it. I was going to try
to fiddle with the one I think is the main, but the more immediate problem
is this. The fuel lines were shot, but fortunately I had some extra left
from working on the leafblower and it's the same size. I had enough for
the main line, but not the 4" for the return. I hoped to use the old return
long enough to get it working, but with the screwing around, it's breaking.

So, I decided to order the carb rebuild kit and hose. It's on it's way from
China, ~$3.25 for it all. As I said before, I don't know how tight or loose
those plastic diaphragm/gasket material is supposed to be. I'm wondering
if it's supposed to be tighter, like a drum and maybe it's stretched enough
that it flops around instead of working like a pump. With the new parts
in the carb and fuel line and the new prime bulb which is on it's way,
I'll resume. I'm not desperate to get it going now and for $2.50 trying
the rebuild kit seems like it's worth it. I figure I can probably break
the plastic anti-tamper crap off and figure out a way to turn the screws
more if I have to.

A question, should the return line normally be flowing gas when it's running?
This one, no gas comes back, leaving me to believe it's not getting enough
gas, which would explain it crapping out. Or is that normal and the return
is only there for when you're using the primer bulb to get it loaded up
with gas before it starts?

  #13   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,279
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 5:00:27 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 4:32:59 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 1:40:40 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

OK, so here's the latest. Upon looking at the plumbing, I realized
that the primer bulb, even if it's leaking, can't be the problem.
It's on the after side of the carb. Fuel flows from the tank,
to the carb, out the carb, to the primer bulb suctions side, out
the primer bulb and back to the tank via the return line.

But, just to be sure, I did bypass it and the symptoms don't change.
Starts right up idles, runs up as you give it throttle, but at speed
after about 15 seconds, it just dies out. Further suspecting a fuel
problem, I tried running it with the return hose disconnected.
While it's running, no gas is coming out of the return. So, logically
what's happening, it's barely getting enough gas to run and when I
advance the throttle, there isn't enough so it quits. This is the
same problem it had ten years ago, when I gave up on it.

So, the only remaining two possibilites a

1 - The carb isn't pumping properly

2 - The fuel filter in the tank is clogged.


The fuel filter, I had out. It had a kind of red, oily look to it, I
presume from the remaining gas evaporating over ten years and the oil
and some residue being left behind. I sprayed it out with carb cleaner,
blew it out with compressed air and it looks OK from what I can tell.
I doubt that's the problem, but it's still possible that it's partially
clogged and can't flow enough. I will diagnose further.

The carb, IDK. Taking it apart it looked OK, a little residue that came
right out, no corrosion. I'm no ace with regular carbs, let alone these
two stroke gizmos. It has two plastic gaskets, one on each side. I
guess one or both vibrate to pump the fuel? One has a dime size dome
to it of the same material, no metal. The one on the other side has a
nickel size piece of
metal in the middle. IDK how flexible they are supposed to be, if they
can stretch and no longer work, etc. All I know is there isn't any
cracking, no missing pieces, they look OK, so what's wrong?

Here is a link to a rebuild kit on Ebay. The two plastic diaphragm gizmos
in mine are the two on the left side of the first/main photo. The other
similar ones are for other models. I guess I can
buy a rebuild kit. All the other pieces in mine, eg the valve, spring, etc
in that kit in mine look OK. Is there anything I should look for in those
two parts that indicate they are bad and the source of my problem?

Another question, on welch plugs, I remember on a Tecumseh, the service
manual said that after you put them in you should coat them with nail polish.
I did that. Seemed kind of nuts, like you'd think gas would dissolve it,
no? What are you supposed to do with welch plugs after you replace them?

I guess another option is just shell out $35 for a whole new carb.

TIA for any help.


To update one more time, I tried using the prime bulb to pump fuel.
It seems to do a lot of sloshing back and forth, which leads me to
believe there is a bad check valve, either in the bulb or carb, IDK
where it is. But it does pump some, and I tried to imitate a check
valve by using a pair of plier to clamp off the hose to the carb
while I depress the bulb, then take the pliers off, let it suck fuel.
There is always air in the line coming from the carb and no air in
the supply line from the tank to the carb. So, I think we can rule
out a filter issue, that wouldn't put air in there. The lines are
all new, so the only thing left is somehow air is getting in inside
the carb. But maybe that's normal, but I wouldn't think so. Plus
with the real problem being fuel starvation, it's consistent with
the problem being the fuel pump in the carb.


So, all the part arrived. New primer bulb, fuel hose, carb rebuild kit.
Put it all together and it's working! Seems like it might need a little
adjusting to run perfectly, but it's running fine enough that I used it
with the edging attachment to edge the lawn at the curb.

For what it's worth, the only difference in the new carb components vs
the old was that the thin plastic sheet that forms the valves and the
pump diaphragm is flat, tight. The old one had a bump where the
diaphragm is, apparently stretched from use. My guess is that was what
the problem was, that kept it from pumping enough gas. Worth remembering
if you take apart one, to know what to look for. I couldn't find anything
online where they said what a good one should look like vs a bad one.

  #14   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 14,141
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Wed, 12 Dec 2018 08:27:06 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 5:00:27 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 4:32:59 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 1:40:40 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

OK, so here's the latest. Upon looking at the plumbing, I realized
that the primer bulb, even if it's leaking, can't be the problem.
It's on the after side of the carb. Fuel flows from the tank,
to the carb, out the carb, to the primer bulb suctions side, out
the primer bulb and back to the tank via the return line.

But, just to be sure, I did bypass it and the symptoms don't change.
Starts right up idles, runs up as you give it throttle, but at speed
after about 15 seconds, it just dies out. Further suspecting a fuel
problem, I tried running it with the return hose disconnected.
While it's running, no gas is coming out of the return. So, logically
what's happening, it's barely getting enough gas to run and when I
advance the throttle, there isn't enough so it quits. This is the
same problem it had ten years ago, when I gave up on it.

So, the only remaining two possibilites a

1 - The carb isn't pumping properly

2 - The fuel filter in the tank is clogged.


The fuel filter, I had out. It had a kind of red, oily look to it, I
presume from the remaining gas evaporating over ten years and the oil
and some residue being left behind. I sprayed it out with carb cleaner,
blew it out with compressed air and it looks OK from what I can tell.
I doubt that's the problem, but it's still possible that it's partially
clogged and can't flow enough. I will diagnose further.

The carb, IDK. Taking it apart it looked OK, a little residue that came
right out, no corrosion. I'm no ace with regular carbs, let alone these
two stroke gizmos. It has two plastic gaskets, one on each side. I
guess one or both vibrate to pump the fuel? One has a dime size dome
to it of the same material, no metal. The one on the other side has a
nickel size piece of
metal in the middle. IDK how flexible they are supposed to be, if they
can stretch and no longer work, etc. All I know is there isn't any
cracking, no missing pieces, they look OK, so what's wrong?

Here is a link to a rebuild kit on Ebay. The two plastic diaphragm gizmos
in mine are the two on the left side of the first/main photo. The other
similar ones are for other models. I guess I can
buy a rebuild kit. All the other pieces in mine, eg the valve, spring, etc
in that kit in mine look OK. Is there anything I should look for in those
two parts that indicate they are bad and the source of my problem?

Another question, on welch plugs, I remember on a Tecumseh, the service
manual said that after you put them in you should coat them with nail polish.
I did that. Seemed kind of nuts, like you'd think gas would dissolve it,
no? What are you supposed to do with welch plugs after you replace them?

I guess another option is just shell out $35 for a whole new carb.

TIA for any help.


To update one more time, I tried using the prime bulb to pump fuel.
It seems to do a lot of sloshing back and forth, which leads me to
believe there is a bad check valve, either in the bulb or carb, IDK
where it is. But it does pump some, and I tried to imitate a check
valve by using a pair of plier to clamp off the hose to the carb
while I depress the bulb, then take the pliers off, let it suck fuel.
There is always air in the line coming from the carb and no air in
the supply line from the tank to the carb. So, I think we can rule
out a filter issue, that wouldn't put air in there. The lines are
all new, so the only thing left is somehow air is getting in inside
the carb. But maybe that's normal, but I wouldn't think so. Plus
with the real problem being fuel starvation, it's consistent with
the problem being the fuel pump in the carb.


So, all the part arrived. New primer bulb, fuel hose, carb rebuild kit.
Put it all together and it's working! Seems like it might need a little
adjusting to run perfectly, but it's running fine enough that I used it
with the edging attachment to edge the lawn at the curb.

For what it's worth, the only difference in the new carb components vs
the old was that the thin plastic sheet that forms the valves and the
pump diaphragm is flat, tight. The old one had a bump where the
diaphragm is, apparently stretched from use. My guess is that was what
the problem was, that kept it from pumping enough gas. Worth remembering
if you take apart one, to know what to look for. I couldn't find anything
online where they said what a good one should look like vs a bad one.


If you don't have one of those adjusting tools you should get one.
They are only a few bucks on Amazon
  #15   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,279
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Wednesday, December 12, 2018 at 12:42:56 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 12 Dec 2018 08:27:06 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 5:00:27 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 4:32:59 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 1:40:40 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

OK, so here's the latest. Upon looking at the plumbing, I realized
that the primer bulb, even if it's leaking, can't be the problem.
It's on the after side of the carb. Fuel flows from the tank,
to the carb, out the carb, to the primer bulb suctions side, out
the primer bulb and back to the tank via the return line.

But, just to be sure, I did bypass it and the symptoms don't change.
Starts right up idles, runs up as you give it throttle, but at speed
after about 15 seconds, it just dies out. Further suspecting a fuel
problem, I tried running it with the return hose disconnected.
While it's running, no gas is coming out of the return. So, logically
what's happening, it's barely getting enough gas to run and when I
advance the throttle, there isn't enough so it quits. This is the
same problem it had ten years ago, when I gave up on it.

So, the only remaining two possibilites a

1 - The carb isn't pumping properly

2 - The fuel filter in the tank is clogged.


The fuel filter, I had out. It had a kind of red, oily look to it, I
presume from the remaining gas evaporating over ten years and the oil
and some residue being left behind. I sprayed it out with carb cleaner,
blew it out with compressed air and it looks OK from what I can tell.
I doubt that's the problem, but it's still possible that it's partially
clogged and can't flow enough. I will diagnose further.

The carb, IDK. Taking it apart it looked OK, a little residue that came
right out, no corrosion. I'm no ace with regular carbs, let alone these
two stroke gizmos. It has two plastic gaskets, one on each side. I
guess one or both vibrate to pump the fuel? One has a dime size dome
to it of the same material, no metal. The one on the other side has a
nickel size piece of
metal in the middle. IDK how flexible they are supposed to be, if they
can stretch and no longer work, etc. All I know is there isn't any
cracking, no missing pieces, they look OK, so what's wrong?

Here is a link to a rebuild kit on Ebay. The two plastic diaphragm gizmos
in mine are the two on the left side of the first/main photo. The other
similar ones are for other models. I guess I can
buy a rebuild kit. All the other pieces in mine, eg the valve, spring, etc
in that kit in mine look OK. Is there anything I should look for in those
two parts that indicate they are bad and the source of my problem?

Another question, on welch plugs, I remember on a Tecumseh, the service
manual said that after you put them in you should coat them with nail polish.
I did that. Seemed kind of nuts, like you'd think gas would dissolve it,
no? What are you supposed to do with welch plugs after you replace them?

I guess another option is just shell out $35 for a whole new carb.

TIA for any help.

To update one more time, I tried using the prime bulb to pump fuel.
It seems to do a lot of sloshing back and forth, which leads me to
believe there is a bad check valve, either in the bulb or carb, IDK
where it is. But it does pump some, and I tried to imitate a check
valve by using a pair of plier to clamp off the hose to the carb
while I depress the bulb, then take the pliers off, let it suck fuel.
There is always air in the line coming from the carb and no air in
the supply line from the tank to the carb. So, I think we can rule
out a filter issue, that wouldn't put air in there. The lines are
all new, so the only thing left is somehow air is getting in inside
the carb. But maybe that's normal, but I wouldn't think so. Plus
with the real problem being fuel starvation, it's consistent with
the problem being the fuel pump in the carb.


So, all the part arrived. New primer bulb, fuel hose, carb rebuild kit.
Put it all together and it's working! Seems like it might need a little
adjusting to run perfectly, but it's running fine enough that I used it
with the edging attachment to edge the lawn at the curb.

For what it's worth, the only difference in the new carb components vs
the old was that the thin plastic sheet that forms the valves and the
pump diaphragm is flat, tight. The old one had a bump where the
diaphragm is, apparently stretched from use. My guess is that was what
the problem was, that kept it from pumping enough gas. Worth remembering
if you take apart one, to know what to look for. I couldn't find anything
online where they said what a good one should look like vs a bad one.


If you don't have one of those adjusting tools you should get one.
They are only a few bucks on Amazon


Assuming I can figure out which is the right one and they sell them.
This has a white plastic thing and a red plastic thing. I assume one is
idle, the other the main jet. The white one has a slot and turns with
a small screwdriver. But they are shaped so they interact with each other
and the red one has no hole to insert anything. The white can go about
1/4 turn before it hits the red one which prevents it from going any
further. The red one could also be turned, but only so far before it
hits part of the white one. IDK how you're supposed to turn the red one,
but it looks like if you turned the white one after it hits the red one,
that would force the red one to move. They are kind of both shaped like
comas, where the tails interact with each other. I may just say to hell
with it, it's running OK to do what I need. The idle should be a little
slower, but that's an easy screw.


  #16   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,228
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

In article ,
says...

If you don't have one of those adjusting tools you should get one.
They are only a few bucks on Amazon


Assuming I can figure out which is the right one and they sell them.
This has a white plastic thing and a red plastic thing. I assume one is
idle, the other the main jet. The white one has a slot and turns with
a small screwdriver. But they are shaped so they interact with each other
and the red one has no hole to insert anything. The white can go about
1/4 turn before it hits the red one which prevents it from going any
further. The red one could also be turned, but only so far before it
hits part of the white one. IDK how you're supposed to turn the red one,
but it looks like if you turned the white one after it hits the red one,
that would force the red one to move. They are kind of both shaped like
comas, where the tails interact with each other. I may just say to hell
with it, it's running OK to do what I need. The idle should be a little
slower, but that's an easy screw.



It may be those plastic things are only caps that cover the actual
screws. There seems to be about half a dozen or more adjustment tools.
I had one brand of small engine and there did not seem to be an
adjustment tool from anywhere but the factory. I finally got the screws
out and used a fine blade on my Dremel tool and just cout a screw slot
in it. For some reason the enviroment people don't want people messing
with the adjustments and from the factory they are set to just barley
run as the mix is on the lean side. Usually a half to a turn more on
the screw makes it iddle and run much better.

  #17   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 22,192
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Wed, 12 Dec 2018 14:36:42 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

It may be those plastic things are only caps that cover the actual
screws. There seems to be about half a dozen or more adjustment tools.
I had one brand of small engine and there did not seem to be an
adjustment tool from anywhere but the factory. I finally got the screws
out and used a fine blade on my Dremel tool and just cout a screw slot
in it. For some reason the enviroment people don't want people messing
with the adjustments and from the factory they are set to just barley
run as the mix is on the lean side. Usually a half to a turn more on
the screw makes it iddle and run much better.


Out West, here, some engines can be a pain. Californication has tons
of regulations. As goes California, so goes the rest of the nation.

Getting the screws out may need one of the Grabit Pro Screw
Extractor
  #18   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,196
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On 12/12/2018 12:42 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 12 Dec 2018 08:27:06 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 5:00:27 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 4:32:59 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 1:40:40 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

OK, so here's the latest. Upon looking at the plumbing, I realized
that the primer bulb, even if it's leaking, can't be the problem.
It's on the after side of the carb. Fuel flows from the tank,
to the carb, out the carb, to the primer bulb suctions side, out
the primer bulb and back to the tank via the return line.

But, just to be sure, I did bypass it and the symptoms don't change.
Starts right up idles, runs up as you give it throttle, but at speed
after about 15 seconds, it just dies out. Further suspecting a fuel
problem, I tried running it with the return hose disconnected.
While it's running, no gas is coming out of the return. So, logically
what's happening, it's barely getting enough gas to run and when I
advance the throttle, there isn't enough so it quits. This is the
same problem it had ten years ago, when I gave up on it.

So, the only remaining two possibilites a

1 - The carb isn't pumping properly

2 - The fuel filter in the tank is clogged.


The fuel filter, I had out. It had a kind of red, oily look to it, I
presume from the remaining gas evaporating over ten years and the oil
and some residue being left behind. I sprayed it out with carb cleaner,
blew it out with compressed air and it looks OK from what I can tell.
I doubt that's the problem, but it's still possible that it's partially
clogged and can't flow enough. I will diagnose further.

The carb, IDK. Taking it apart it looked OK, a little residue that came
right out, no corrosion. I'm no ace with regular carbs, let alone these
two stroke gizmos. It has two plastic gaskets, one on each side. I
guess one or both vibrate to pump the fuel? One has a dime size dome
to it of the same material, no metal. The one on the other side has a
nickel size piece of
metal in the middle. IDK how flexible they are supposed to be, if they
can stretch and no longer work, etc. All I know is there isn't any
cracking, no missing pieces, they look OK, so what's wrong?

Here is a link to a rebuild kit on Ebay. The two plastic diaphragm gizmos
in mine are the two on the left side of the first/main photo. The other
similar ones are for other models. I guess I can
buy a rebuild kit. All the other pieces in mine, eg the valve, spring, etc
in that kit in mine look OK. Is there anything I should look for in those
two parts that indicate they are bad and the source of my problem?

Another question, on welch plugs, I remember on a Tecumseh, the service
manual said that after you put them in you should coat them with nail polish.
I did that. Seemed kind of nuts, like you'd think gas would dissolve it,
no? What are you supposed to do with welch plugs after you replace them?

I guess another option is just shell out $35 for a whole new carb.

TIA for any help.

To update one more time, I tried using the prime bulb to pump fuel.
It seems to do a lot of sloshing back and forth, which leads me to
believe there is a bad check valve, either in the bulb or carb, IDK
where it is. But it does pump some, and I tried to imitate a check
valve by using a pair of plier to clamp off the hose to the carb
while I depress the bulb, then take the pliers off, let it suck fuel.
There is always air in the line coming from the carb and no air in
the supply line from the tank to the carb. So, I think we can rule
out a filter issue, that wouldn't put air in there. The lines are
all new, so the only thing left is somehow air is getting in inside
the carb. But maybe that's normal, but I wouldn't think so. Plus
with the real problem being fuel starvation, it's consistent with
the problem being the fuel pump in the carb.


So, all the part arrived. New primer bulb, fuel hose, carb rebuild kit.
Put it all together and it's working! Seems like it might need a little
adjusting to run perfectly, but it's running fine enough that I used it
with the edging attachment to edge the lawn at the curb.

For what it's worth, the only difference in the new carb components vs
the old was that the thin plastic sheet that forms the valves and the
pump diaphragm is flat, tight. The old one had a bump where the
diaphragm is, apparently stretched from use. My guess is that was what
the problem was, that kept it from pumping enough gas. Worth remembering
if you take apart one, to know what to look for. I couldn't find anything
online where they said what a good one should look like vs a bad one.


If you don't have one of those adjusting tools you should get one.
They are only a few bucks on Amazon

I only wish I could get an adjusting tool for my Echo leaf blower. It
seems that only "authorized repair shops" can get them and no one will
sell them to the general public ... they want you to bring in the engine
so they can tell you it was bad gas, even though all they do is tweak
the carb. I know, gas does go bad and maybe even more today than 10
years ago. I just went through a generator problem. Once the old gas
was used up, and new gas was in the tank, the thing ran like a clock.
Prior to that, it ran very poorly.
  #19   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,115
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On 12/12/2018 6:04 PM, Art Todesco wrote:
On 12/12/2018 12:42 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 12 Dec 2018 08:27:06 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 5:00:27 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 4:32:59 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 1:40:40 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

OK, so here's the latest.Â* Upon looking at the plumbing, I realized
that the primer bulb, even if it's leaking, can't be the problem.
It's on the after side of the carb.Â* Fuel flows from the tank,
to the carb, out the carb, to the primer bulb suctions side, out
the primer bulb and back to the tank via the return line.

But, just to be sure, I did bypass it and the symptoms don't change.
Starts right up idles, runs up as you give it throttle, but at speed
after about 15 seconds, it just dies out.Â*Â* Further suspecting a fuel
problem, I tried running it with the return hose disconnected.
While it's running, no gas is coming out of the return. So, logically
what's happening, it's barely getting enough gas to run and when I
advance the throttle, there isn't enough so it quits. This is the
same problem it had ten years ago, when I gave up on it.

So, the only remaining two possibilites a

1 - The carb isn't pumping properly

2 - The fuel filter in the tank is clogged.


The fuel filter, I had out.Â* It had a kind of red, oily look to it, I
presume from the remaining gas evaporating over ten years and the oil
and some residue being left behind.Â* I sprayed it out with carb
cleaner,
blew it out with compressed air and it looks OK from what I can tell.
I doubt that's the problem, but it's still possible that it's
partially
clogged and can't flow enough.Â* I will diagnose further.

The carb, IDK.Â* Taking it apart it looked OK, a little residue
that came
right out, no corrosion.Â* I'm no ace with regular carbs, let alone
these
two stroke gizmos.Â* It has two plastic gaskets, one on each side.Â* I
guess one or both vibrate to pump the fuel?Â* One has a dime size dome
to it of the same material, no metal.Â* The one on the other side
has a
nickel size piece of
metal in the middle.Â* IDK how flexible they are supposed to be, if
they
can stretch and no longer work, etc.Â* All I know is there isn't any
cracking, no missing pieces, they look OK, so what's wrong?

Here is a link to a rebuild kit on Ebay.Â* The two plastic
diaphragm gizmos
in mine are the two on the left side of the first/main photo. The
other
similar ones are for other models.Â*Â* I guess I can
buy a rebuild kit.Â* All the other pieces in mine, eg the valve,
spring, etc
in that kit in mine look OK.Â* Is there anything I should look for
in those
two parts that indicate they are bad and the source of my problem?

Another question, on welch plugs, I remember on a Tecumseh, the
service
manual said that after you put them in you should coat them with
nail polish.
I did that.Â* Seemed kind of nuts, like you'd think gas would
dissolve it,
no?Â* What are you supposed to do with welch plugs after you
replace them?

I guess another option is just shell out $35 for a whole new carb.

TIA for any help.

To update one more time, I tried using the prime bulb to pump fuel.
It seems to do a lot of sloshing back and forth, which leads me to
believe there is a bad check valve, either in the bulb or carb, IDK
where it is.Â* But it does pump some, and I tried to imitate a check
valve by using a pair of plier to clamp off the hose to the carb
while I depress the bulb, then take the pliers off, let it suck fuel.
There is always air in the line coming from the carb and no air in
the supply line from the tank to the carb.Â* So, I think we can rule
out a filter issue, that wouldn't put air in there.Â* The lines are
all new, so the only thing left is somehow air is getting in inside
the carb.Â* But maybe that's normal, but I wouldn't think so.Â* Plus
with the real problem being fuel starvation, it's consistent with
the problem being the fuel pump in the carb.

So, all the part arrived.Â* New primer bulb, fuel hose, carb rebuild
kit.
Put it all together and it's working!Â*Â* Seems like it might need a
little
adjusting to run perfectly, but it's running fine enough that I used it
with the edging attachment to edge the lawn at the curb.

For what it's worth, the only difference in the new carb components vs
the old was that the thin plastic sheet that forms the valves and the
pump diaphragm is flat, tight.Â* The old one had a bump where the
diaphragm is, apparently stretched from use.Â* My guess is that was what
the problem was, that kept it from pumping enough gas.Â* Worth
remembering
if you take apart one, to know what to look for.Â* I couldn't find
anything
online where they said what a good one should look like vs a bad one.


If you don't have one of those adjusting tools you should get one.
They are only a few bucks on Amazon

I only wish I could get an adjusting tool for my Echo leaf blower.Â* It
seems that only "authorized repair shops" can get them and no one will
sell them to the general public ... they want you to bring in the
engine so they can tell you it was bad gas, even though all they do is
tweak the carb.Â* I know, gas does go bad and maybe even more today
than 10 years ago.Â* I just went through a generator problem.Â* Once the
old gas was used up, and new gas was in the tank, the thing ran like a
clock. Prior to that, it ran very poorly.


Â* Out of curiosity , was the old gas laced with ethanol ? That stuff is
bad juju for small engines . Where we live I have a couple of places
that sell non-ethanol . For a higher price of course .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

  #21   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,196
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On 12/12/2018 7:27 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 12/12/2018 6:04 PM, Art Todesco wrote:
On 12/12/2018 12:42 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 12 Dec 2018 08:27:06 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 5:00:27 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 4:32:59 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 1:40:40 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

OK, so here's the latest.Â* Upon looking at the plumbing, I realized
that the primer bulb, even if it's leaking, can't be the problem.
It's on the after side of the carb.Â* Fuel flows from the tank,
to the carb, out the carb, to the primer bulb suctions side, out
the primer bulb and back to the tank via the return line.

But, just to be sure, I did bypass it and the symptoms don't change.
Starts right up idles, runs up as you give it throttle, but at speed
after about 15 seconds, it just dies out.Â*Â* Further suspecting a fuel
problem, I tried running it with the return hose disconnected.
While it's running, no gas is coming out of the return. So, logically
what's happening, it's barely getting enough gas to run and when I
advance the throttle, there isn't enough so it quits. This is the
same problem it had ten years ago, when I gave up on it.

So, the only remaining two possibilites a

1 - The carb isn't pumping properly

2 - The fuel filter in the tank is clogged.


The fuel filter, I had out.Â* It had a kind of red, oily look to it, I
presume from the remaining gas evaporating over ten years and the oil
and some residue being left behind.Â* I sprayed it out with carb
cleaner,
blew it out with compressed air and it looks OK from what I can tell.
I doubt that's the problem, but it's still possible that it's
partially
clogged and can't flow enough.Â* I will diagnose further.

The carb, IDK.Â* Taking it apart it looked OK, a little residue
that came
right out, no corrosion.Â* I'm no ace with regular carbs, let alone
these
two stroke gizmos.Â* It has two plastic gaskets, one on each side.Â* I
guess one or both vibrate to pump the fuel?Â* One has a dime size dome
to it of the same material, no metal.Â* The one on the other side
has a
nickel size piece of
metal in the middle.Â* IDK how flexible they are supposed to be, if
they
can stretch and no longer work, etc.Â* All I know is there isn't any
cracking, no missing pieces, they look OK, so what's wrong?

Here is a link to a rebuild kit on Ebay.Â* The two plastic
diaphragm gizmos
in mine are the two on the left side of the first/main photo. The
other
similar ones are for other models.Â*Â* I guess I can
buy a rebuild kit.Â* All the other pieces in mine, eg the valve,
spring, etc
in that kit in mine look OK.Â* Is there anything I should look for
in those
two parts that indicate they are bad and the source of my problem?

Another question, on welch plugs, I remember on a Tecumseh, the
service
manual said that after you put them in you should coat them with
nail polish.
I did that.Â* Seemed kind of nuts, like you'd think gas would
dissolve it,
no?Â* What are you supposed to do with welch plugs after you
replace them?

I guess another option is just shell out $35 for a whole new carb.

TIA for any help.

To update one more time, I tried using the prime bulb to pump fuel.
It seems to do a lot of sloshing back and forth, which leads me to
believe there is a bad check valve, either in the bulb or carb, IDK
where it is.Â* But it does pump some, and I tried to imitate a check
valve by using a pair of plier to clamp off the hose to the carb
while I depress the bulb, then take the pliers off, let it suck fuel.
There is always air in the line coming from the carb and no air in
the supply line from the tank to the carb.Â* So, I think we can rule
out a filter issue, that wouldn't put air in there.Â* The lines are
all new, so the only thing left is somehow air is getting in inside
the carb.Â* But maybe that's normal, but I wouldn't think so.Â* Plus
with the real problem being fuel starvation, it's consistent with
the problem being the fuel pump in the carb.

So, all the part arrived.Â* New primer bulb, fuel hose, carb rebuild
kit.
Put it all together and it's working!Â*Â* Seems like it might need a
little
adjusting to run perfectly, but it's running fine enough that I used it
with the edging attachment to edge the lawn at the curb.

For what it's worth, the only difference in the new carb components vs
the old was that the thin plastic sheet that forms the valves and the
pump diaphragm is flat, tight.Â* The old one had a bump where the
diaphragm is, apparently stretched from use.Â* My guess is that was what
the problem was, that kept it from pumping enough gas.Â* Worth
remembering
if you take apart one, to know what to look for.Â* I couldn't find
anything
online where they said what a good one should look like vs a bad one.

If you don't have one of those adjusting tools you should get one.
They are only a few bucks on Amazon

I only wish I could get an adjusting tool for my Echo leaf blower.Â* It
seems that only "authorized repair shops" can get them and no one will
sell them to the general public ... they want you to bring in the
engine so they can tell you it was bad gas, even though all they do is
tweak the carb.Â* I know, gas does go bad and maybe even more today
than 10 years ago.Â* I just went through a generator problem.Â* Once the
old gas was used up, and new gas was in the tank, the thing ran like a
clock. Prior to that, it ran very poorly.


Â* Out of curiosity , was the old gas laced with ethanol ? That stuff is
bad juju for small engines . Where we live I have a couple of places
that sell non-ethanol . For a higher price of course .

Yes, probably. I have a few places to get non-ethanol gas too.
  #22   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,279
Default Two stroke weed whacker primer bulb

On Wednesday, December 12, 2018 at 2:36:51 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...

If you don't have one of those adjusting tools you should get one.
They are only a few bucks on Amazon


Assuming I can figure out which is the right one and they sell them.
This has a white plastic thing and a red plastic thing. I assume one is
idle, the other the main jet. The white one has a slot and turns with
a small screwdriver. But they are shaped so they interact with each other
and the red one has no hole to insert anything. The white can go about
1/4 turn before it hits the red one which prevents it from going any
further. The red one could also be turned, but only so far before it
hits part of the white one. IDK how you're supposed to turn the red one,
but it looks like if you turned the white one after it hits the red one,
that would force the red one to move. They are kind of both shaped like
comas, where the tails interact with each other. I may just say to hell
with it, it's running OK to do what I need. The idle should be a little
slower, but that's an easy screw.



It may be those plastic things are only caps that cover the actual
screws. There seems to be about half a dozen or more adjustment tools.
I had one brand of small engine and there did not seem to be an
adjustment tool from anywhere but the factory. I finally got the screws
out and used a fine blade on my Dremel tool and just cout a screw slot
in it. For some reason the enviroment people don't want people messing
with the adjustments and from the factory they are set to just barley
run as the mix is on the lean side. Usually a half to a turn more on
the screw makes it iddle and run much better.


This is one of those stupid big govt things where the libs decided that
it's a great idea to prevent you from adjusting the carb on your own
small engine. Apparently they think people are stupid and they will
adjust it to run worse, instead of better. The result is that there are
a lot of small engines running out there that are screwed up, spewing
more pollution, because of the stupid, hippie libs.

I have a Sears leafblower that didn't run right when it was new. I should
have taken it back, but the problem was intermittent, then became steady
later. I had to run it at half choke. Hope the hippies are happy. After
ten years, the carb finally crapped out and I got a replacement one. Now
it runs without the half choke, better than ever. If I had access to those
adjustment screws, I would have tuned it before I used it all those years.
Those dopes thing you're going to take a $100 leaf blower to a service
center to have it tuned? You'd have a bill for more than a new one costs.

Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Primer bulb problems on weedeater wt3100 weed eater Alex[_12_] Home Repair 4 August 26th 13 01:21 PM
Craftsman two-stroke weed whacker pull cord stuck somehow (what can it be)? Bill Horn Home Repair 3 June 25th 10 10:34 PM
03/17/07 Reuters: Two bodies found in Mosul: The bodies of two men and two women were found in various districts of Mosul on Friday. Two infants were found alive beside the two dead women, police said. BGKM Woodworking 0 March 17th 07 09:14 PM
OT - Sears Weed Whacker Update Lou Electronics Repair 0 June 5th 05 02:17 AM
OT? Sears Craftsman Weed Whacker NSM Electronics Repair 15 June 2nd 05 05:32 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:06 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"