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#1
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Walkout Basement Doors
I realize this is the political "stream-of-consciousness" group, but I
thought I might ask a question about walk-out basement doors? Another discovery in my "house-built-by-idiots" is that my basement door is built into a 2x10 (treated lumber) outer frame which mates with the concrete wall. The side pair of 2x10's actually go down several inches into the poured concrete floor of the basement and are below ground level on the outside, where there is a slab concrete patio which is poured to the same level as the basement floor. The actual door frame is NOT treated lumber and is nailed to the 2x10's. To reach the final level of "stupid" the vinyl siding bottom J-channel is installed at a 30 degree angle on both side of the door so as to channel water to the door, and the hollow aluminum adjustable threshold was installed over the narrow soil gap between the basement floor concrete and the patio concrete so that insect activity emerging from the gap would be hidden. My thoughts are to cut off the bottom several inches of the 2x10's and fill that with something like polyurethane caulk. Then install a new threshold on the basement-side of the floor crack, and then a new door frame. |
#2
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Walkout Basement Doors
On 8/18/2018 3:11 PM, Davej wrote:
.... My thoughts are to cut off the bottom several inches of the 2x10's and fill that with something like polyurethane caulk. Then install a new threshold on the basement-side of the floor crack, and then a new door frame. I'd try to get the remnants of the ends out of the holes and then fill with sand mix. If just fill over the ends will end up w/ a cavity to pond water. -- |
#3
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Walkout Basement Doors
On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 3:47:13 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 8/18/2018 3:11 PM, Davej wrote: ... My thoughts are to cut off the bottom several inches of the 2x10's and fill that with something like polyurethane caulk. Then install a new threshold on the basement-side of the floor crack, and then a new door frame. I'd try to get the remnants of the ends out of the holes and then fill with sand mix. If just fill over the ends will end up w/ a cavity to pond water. Is there anything that won't separate later and potentially provide a crack/path for ants and termites? I am cutting away on the 2x10's. When I get the bottoms cut off they better not start moving. |
#4
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Walkout Basement Doors
On 8/18/2018 4:11 PM, Davej wrote:
My thoughts are to cut off the bottom several inches of the 2x10's and fill that with something like polyurethane caulk. Then install a new threshold on the basement-side of the floor crack, and then a new door frame. This is a distraction from politics. Are you cutting out a rotted section? Car you get the buried portion out? If not structural pretty much anything will fill it but I'd use some Quickcrete sand mix if possible I'd use some caulk to make sure it is sealed if there is a seam. Are you filling that gap under the threshold too? Moving the threshold sounds like a smart thing to do |
#5
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Walkout Basement Doors
On 8/18/2018 5:14 PM, Davej wrote:
On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 3:47:13 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote: On 8/18/2018 3:11 PM, Davej wrote: ... My thoughts are to cut off the bottom several inches of the 2x10's and fill that with something like polyurethane caulk. Then install a new threshold on the basement-side of the floor crack, and then a new door frame. I'd try to get the remnants of the ends out of the holes and then fill with sand mix. If just fill over the ends will end up w/ a cavity to pond water. Is there anything that won't separate later and potentially provide a crack/path for ants and termites? I am cutting away on the 2x10's. When I get the bottoms cut off they better not start moving. Â* Hydraulic cement . Used to seal cracks in pools and concrete ponds , it expands as it cures . -- Snag Yes , I'm old and crochety . Get off my lawn ! |
#6
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Walkout Basement Doors
On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 5:32:13 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/18/2018 4:11 PM, Davej wrote: My thoughts are to cut off the bottom several inches of the 2x10's and fill that with something like polyurethane caulk. Then install a new threshold on the basement-side of the floor crack, and then a new door frame. This is a distraction from politics. Are you cutting out a rotted section? Car you get the buried portion out? If not structural pretty much anything will fill it but I'd use some Quickcrete sand mix if possible I'd use some caulk to make sure it is sealed if there is a seam. Are you filling that gap under the threshold too? Moving the threshold sounds like a smart thing to do The cutting of the 2x10's is a slow process with an oscillating tool. I have quit for the day. Can't find my wood chisels. The 2x10 wood is very wet. The inner door frame is made from a cut down 2x6 and 1x2. I guess I will replace these with treated lumber. Maybe I could look at plastic/ composite lumber. I want that concrete seam to remain exposed so I will use a narrower threshold. I don't yet know how difficult it will be to extract the buried ends of the 2x10's. Thanks. |
#7
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Walkout Basement Doors
In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 18 Aug 2018 13:11:53 -0700 (PDT), Davej
wrote: I realize this is the political "stream-of-consciousness" group, but I thought I might ask a question about walk-out basement doors? Another discovery in my "house-built-by-idiots" is that my basement door is built into a 2x10 (treated lumber) outer frame which mates with the concrete wall. The side pair of 2x10's actually go down several inches into the poured concrete floor of the basement and are below ground level on the outside, where there is a slab concrete patio which is poured to the same level as the basement floor. The actual It all sounds very sturdy, unless a problem arises. door frame is NOT treated lumber and is nailed to the 2x10's. To reach the final level of "stupid" the vinyl siding bottom J-channel is installed at a 30 degree angle on both side of the door so as to channel water to the door, and the hollow aluminum adjustable threshold was installed over the narrow soil gap between the basement floor concrete and the patio concrete so that insect activity emerging from the gap would be hidden. That's good. No one wants to see that. My thoughts are to cut off the bottom several inches of the 2x10's and fill that with something like polyurethane caulk. Then install a new threshold on the basement-side of the floor crack, and then a new door frame. Sorry, this question is beyond me technically. But the first thing you should ask is What would Stumpie do. |
#8
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Walkout Basement Doors
On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 8:55:48 PM UTC-4, Davej wrote:
On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 5:32:13 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 8/18/2018 4:11 PM, Davej wrote: My thoughts are to cut off the bottom several inches of the 2x10's and fill that with something like polyurethane caulk. Then install a new threshold on the basement-side of the floor crack, and then a new door frame. This is a distraction from politics. Are you cutting out a rotted section? Car you get the buried portion out? If not structural pretty much anything will fill it but I'd use some Quickcrete sand mix if possible I'd use some caulk to make sure it is sealed if there is a seam. Are you filling that gap under the threshold too? Moving the threshold sounds like a smart thing to do The cutting of the 2x10's is a slow process with an oscillating tool. I have quit for the day. Can't find my wood chisels. The 2x10 wood is very wet. The inner door frame is made from a cut down 2x6 and 1x2. I guess I will replace these with treated lumber. Maybe I could look at plastic/ composite lumber. I want that concrete seam to remain exposed so I will use a narrower threshold. I don't yet know how difficult it will be to extract the buried ends of the 2x10's. Thanks. I guess another question is how easy or hard would it to be to deal with it some day if it rots out, as opposed to now? Some things, even if they were done wrong, might be better left alone and dealt with when and if necessary. If the ends rot out, they will come out easy. |
#9
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Walkout Basement Doors
On Sunday, August 19, 2018 at 8:46:48 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 8:55:48 PM UTC-4, Davej wrote: On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 5:32:13 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 8/18/2018 4:11 PM, Davej wrote: My thoughts are to cut off the bottom several inches of the 2x10's and fill that with something like polyurethane caulk. Then install a new threshold on the basement-side of the floor crack, and then a new door frame. This is a distraction from politics. Are you cutting out a rotted section? Car you get the buried portion out? If not structural pretty much anything will fill it but I'd use some Quickcrete sand mix if possible I'd use some caulk to make sure it is sealed if there is a seam. Are you filling that gap under the threshold too? Moving the threshold sounds like a smart thing to do The cutting of the 2x10's is a slow process with an oscillating tool. I have quit for the day. Can't find my wood chisels. The 2x10 wood is very wet. The inner door frame is made from a cut down 2x6 and 1x2. I guess I will replace these with treated lumber. Maybe I could look at plastic/ composite lumber. I want that concrete seam to remain exposed so I will use a narrower threshold. I don't yet know how difficult it will be to extract the buried ends of the 2x10's. Thanks. I guess another question is how easy or hard would it to be to deal with it some day if it rots out, as opposed to now? Some things, even if they were done wrong, might be better left alone and dealt with when and if necessary. If the ends rot out, they will come out easy. Yeah, my main reason for attempting to cut these bottom ends off is to eliminate any ant/termite paths -- since the 2x10's are flush with the exterior side of the wall and extend below ground I am concerned about any cracks between the 2x10 and the concrete providing hidden pathways. |
#10
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Walkout Basement Doors
On Sat, 18 Aug 2018 17:55:43 -0700 (PDT), Davej
wrote: I don't yet know how difficult it will be to extract the buried ends of the 2x10's. Thanks. You might try drilling numerous holes in the wood using a spade bit (3/4") - overlapping each hole a little and then take a chisel to the rest of the wood. |
#11
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Walkout Basement Doors
On Sunday, August 19, 2018 at 9:56:41 AM UTC-4, Davej wrote:
On Sunday, August 19, 2018 at 8:46:48 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote: On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 8:55:48 PM UTC-4, Davej wrote: On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 5:32:13 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 8/18/2018 4:11 PM, Davej wrote: My thoughts are to cut off the bottom several inches of the 2x10's and fill that with something like polyurethane caulk. Then install a new threshold on the basement-side of the floor crack, and then a new door frame. This is a distraction from politics. Are you cutting out a rotted section? Car you get the buried portion out? If not structural pretty much anything will fill it but I'd use some Quickcrete sand mix if possible I'd use some caulk to make sure it is sealed if there is a seam. Are you filling that gap under the threshold too? Moving the threshold sounds like a smart thing to do The cutting of the 2x10's is a slow process with an oscillating tool. I have quit for the day. Can't find my wood chisels. The 2x10 wood is very wet. The inner door frame is made from a cut down 2x6 and 1x2. I guess I will replace these with treated lumber. Maybe I could look at plastic/ composite lumber. I want that concrete seam to remain exposed so I will use a narrower threshold. I don't yet know how difficult it will be to extract the buried ends of the 2x10's. Thanks. I guess another question is how easy or hard would it to be to deal with it some day if it rots out, as opposed to now? Some things, even if they were done wrong, might be better left alone and dealt with when and if necessary. If the ends rot out, they will come out easy. Yeah, my main reason for attempting to cut these bottom ends off is to eliminate any ant/termite paths -- since the 2x10's are flush with the exterior side of the wall and extend below ground I am concerned about any cracks between the 2x10 and the concrete providing hidden pathways. Spray it with some of that termite/insect powder and forget about it. In my experience, you'll never eliminate all possible ant pathways. If it's accessible to reapply some termite dust, doing that every couple years might be a lot easier and just as or more effective. |
#12
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Walkout Basement Doors
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 19 Aug 2018 07:17:04 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote: On Sunday, August 19, 2018 at 9:56:41 AM UTC-4, Davej wrote: On Sunday, August 19, 2018 at 8:46:48 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote: On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 8:55:48 PM UTC-4, Davej wrote: On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 5:32:13 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 8/18/2018 4:11 PM, Davej wrote: My thoughts are to cut off the bottom several inches of the 2x10's and fill that with something like polyurethane caulk. Then install a new threshold on the basement-side of the floor crack, and then a new door frame. This is a distraction from politics. Are you cutting out a rotted section? Car you get the buried portion out? If not structural pretty much anything will fill it but I'd use some Quickcrete sand mix if possible I'd use some caulk to make sure it is sealed if there is a seam. Are you filling that gap under the threshold too? Moving the threshold sounds like a smart thing to do The cutting of the 2x10's is a slow process with an oscillating tool. I have quit for the day. Can't find my wood chisels. The 2x10 wood is very wet. The inner door frame is made from a cut down 2x6 and 1x2. I guess I will replace these with treated lumber. Maybe I could look at plastic/ composite lumber. I want that concrete seam to remain exposed so I will use a narrower threshold. I don't yet know how difficult it will be to extract the buried ends of the 2x10's. Thanks. I guess another question is how easy or hard would it to be to deal with it some day if it rots out, as opposed to now? Some things, even if they were done wrong, might be better left alone and dealt with when and if necessary. If the ends rot out, they will come out easy. Yeah, my main reason for attempting to cut these bottom ends off is to eliminate any ant/termite paths -- since the 2x10's are flush with the exterior side of the wall and extend below ground I am concerned about any cracks between the 2x10 and the concrete providing hidden pathways. Spray it with some of that termite/insect powder and forget about it. In my experience, you'll never eliminate all possible ant pathways. If it's accessible to reapply some termite dust, doing that every couple years might be a lot easier and just as or more effective. +1 In fact that's what I thought when I read the previous post. |
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