Hello,

Getting ahead of myself here, but let me ask while I think of it:

Live outside of Boston.

Will probably go for a new roof in the Spring.

How "necessary" or desirable is it to remove the old
shingles first ?

Seems like it would be a much bigger job if we have the Contractor
remove the old (25 years old, but still fairly good; no curling, etc.)
ones first.

What are the pros and cons, please ?

What else should I be asking the Contractor ?

e.g., what "grade" of Shingles for up here in New England ?
I imagine most of the cost is the labor; right ?

That Rubberized sheet I think the use as a matter of course:
How far back up the rood should it extend ? Further is better ?

etc., etc. ?

Thanks, appreciate your opinions,
Bob

On 3/13/2018 8:07 AM, Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Getting ahead of myself here, but let me ask while I think of it:

Live outside of Boston.

Will probably go for a new roof in the Spring.

How "necessary" or desirable is it to remove the old
shingles first ?

Seems like it would be a much bigger job if we have the Contractor
remove the old (25 years old, but still fairly good; no curling, etc.)
ones first.

What are the pros and cons, please ?

What else should I be asking the Contractor ?

e.g., what "grade" of Shingles for up here in New England ?
I imagine most of the cost is the labor; right ?

That Rubberized sheet I think the use as a matter of course:
How far back up the rood should it extend ? Further is better ?

etc., etc. ?

Thanks, appreciate your opinions,
Bob

My 2nd roofing was laid over first as you can usually do but I had some
curling on 1st and contractor suggested somewhat higher grade
architectural shingles which hid imperfections. It's over 30 years old
now and looks fine and has never leaked but at this age I'm going to
replace it which means removal of 1st and 2nd shingles.

On 3/13/18 7:07 AM, Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Getting ahead of myself here, but let me ask while I think of it:

Live outside of Boston.

Will probably go for a new roof in the Spring.

How "necessary" or desirable is it to remove the old
shingles first ?

Seems like it would be a much bigger job if we have the Contractor
remove the old (25 years old, but still fairly good; no curling, etc.)
ones first.

What are the pros and cons, please ?

What else should I be asking the Contractor ?

e.g., what "grade" of Shingles for up here in New England ?
I imagine most of the cost is the labor; right ?

That Rubberized sheet I think the use as a matter of course:
How far back up the rood should it extend ? Further is better ?

etc., etc. ?

Thanks, appreciate your opinions,
Bob

Have you thought about a metal roof?

On Tuesday, March 13, 2018 at 8:21:25 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
Have you thought about a metal roof?

He's in Boston. That's a climate with a lot of temperature extremes both directions, makes for a lot of thermal movement in a metal roof.

On Tuesday, March 13, 2018 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-4, Robert11 wrote:
Hello,


How "necessary" or desirable is it to remove the old
shingles first ?


If you can afford it, rip it.
If the contractor can get a dumpster close rip it.


e.g., what "grade" of Shingles for up here in New England ?
I imagine most of the cost is the labor; right ?

Labor is the big part. Buy really nice shingles. A million people will be seeing them.


That Rubberized sheet I think the use as a matter of course:
How far back up the rood should it extend ? etc., etc. ?

If you are asking, it is because you plan on ripping the old off.
That is your weather/ice guard.


If the contractor shows you different shingle options, be certain to look at them outdoors. You inside light is likely not the same light.

On Tuesday, March 13, 2018 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-4, Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Getting ahead of myself here, but let me ask while I think of it:

Live outside of Boston.

Will probably go for a new roof in the Spring.

How "necessary" or desirable is it to remove the old
shingles first ?

Seems like it would be a much bigger job if we have the Contractor
remove the old (25 years old, but still fairly good; no curling, etc.)
ones first.

What are the pros and cons, please ?

The biggest plus is that it allows full inspection of the sheathing to
make sure it's not rotted, deteriorated, that it's in good shape and
not in need of replacement. Personally, on just about any roof, I'd
pay the extra cost for removal. The older the house, if there have
been any leaks, any issues, then the more important it becomes.




What else should I be asking the Contractor ?

After you find the shingle you want, ask the contractor to give you
some houses near you where they have put them on. Then you can see
what they look like on a house and also if the homeowner is around,
you can ask them how the contractor did.





e.g., what "grade" of Shingles for up here in New England ?
I imagine most of the cost is the labor; right ?

It's probably about half labor, half materials. I'd go with one of
the architectural grade shingles or better from any of the major
shingle manufacturer's, depending on what looks good to you.




That Rubberized sheet I think the use as a matter of course:
How far back up the rood should it extend ? Further is better ?


By code across most of the colder parts of the country, it goes from
the edge of the lower roof until it's 24" past where it meets the
heated part of the structure. It's for ice damming and that's the
critical area. It's also used in valleys and similar areas, if the
roof has them.




etc., etc. ?

Thanks, appreciate your opinions,
Bob

Is the roof adequately ventilated? This is the time to make sure it is.
Today most pros believe a continuous ridge vent together with soffit
vents are the best method. If you have a ridge vent, you can also
decide what kind of ridge vent you want use. They range from cheap
roll on filter like material, to actual rigid ones. I'd go for the
latter because I believe they have more open area to let air flow.
If you need any other venting fixed, eg thinking about putting in
a bath fan, have a bath fan that is vented to the attic instead of
outside, have box vents and want to move to ridge venting, are using
power fans and it needs to be replaced, etc, now is the time.

On Tue, 13 Mar 2018 05:07:09 -0700 (PDT), Robert11
wrote:

Hello,
Live outside of Boston.
Will probably go for a new roof in the Spring.
How "necessary" or desirable is it to remove the old
shingles first ?
Seems like it would be a much bigger job if we have the Contractor
remove the old (25 years old, but still fairly good; no curling, etc.)
ones first.
What are the pros and cons, please ?
What else should I be asking the Contractor ?
e.g., what "grade" of Shingles for up here in New England ?
I imagine most of the cost is the labor; right ?
That Rubberized sheet I think the use as a matter of course:
How far back up the rood should it extend ? Further is better ?
etc., etc. ?
Thanks, appreciate your opinions,
Bob




https://inspectapedia.com/BestPracti...le_Re_Roof.php

: get several detailed estimates and talk with the contractors about
everything - they can be a good resource - or their inability to
answer your questions can be a red flag. Sometimes the estimator is
more of a salesman - rather than a tradesman !
: don't just consider the shingles - eave starter; flashing;
ventilation, repairs - are all important too.
: beware of the contractor who can "start next week" .. the good
ones are usually busy & booked up .
You could visit your local building supply store in advance just to
compare and calculate the cost difference of the materials -
we were shown 3 grades of shingles - the lowest grade was quite
inferior - thin light flimsy - the contractor showed it as a warning
- not as an option.
John T.

On Tuesday, March 13, 2018 at 7:07:14 AM UTC-5, Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Getting ahead of myself here, but let me ask while I think of it:

Live outside of Boston.

Will probably go for a new roof in the Spring.

How "necessary" or desirable is it to remove the old
shingles first ?

Seems like it would be a much bigger job if we have the Contractor
remove the old (25 years old, but still fairly good; no curling, etc.)
ones first.

What are the pros and cons, please ?

What else should I be asking the Contractor ?

e.g., what "grade" of Shingles for up here in New England ?
I imagine most of the cost is the labor; right ?

That Rubberized sheet I think the use as a matter of course:
How far back up the rood should it extend ? Further is better ?

etc., etc. ?

Thanks, appreciate your opinions,
Bob


We have a home improvement show on a talk radio station here every Saturday morning hosted by a fellow who owns a roofing company and his recommendation is to always remove the old roof. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Attic Monster

On Tue, 13 Mar 2018 18:48:20 GMT, Wayne Boatwright
wrote:

On Tue 13 Mar 2018 07:32:18a, told us...

On Tue, 13 Mar 2018 05:07:09 -0700 (PDT), Robert11
wrote:

Hello,
Live outside of Boston.
Will probably go for a new roof in the Spring.
How "necessary" or desirable is it to remove the old
shingles first ?
Seems like it would be a much bigger job if we have the Contractor
remove the old (25 years old, but still fairly good; no curling,
etc.) ones first.
What are the pros and cons, please ?
What else should I be asking the Contractor ?
e.g., what "grade" of Shingles for up here in New England ?
I imagine most of the cost is the labor; right ?
That Rubberized sheet I think the use as a matter of course:
How far back up the rood should it extend ? Further is better ?
etc., etc. ?
Thanks, appreciate your opinions,
Bob




https://inspectapedia.com/BestPracti...le_Re_Roof.php

: get several detailed estimates and talk with the contractors
: about
everything - they can be a good resource - or their inability
to answer your questions can be a red flag. Sometimes the
estimator is more of a salesman - rather than a tradesman !
: don't just consider the shingles - eave starter; flashing;
: ventilation, repairs - are all important too. beware of the
: contractor who can "start next week" .. the good
ones are usually busy & booked up .
You could visit your local building supply store in advance just
to compare and calculate the cost difference of the materials -
we were shown 3 grades of shingles - the lowest grade was quite
inferior - thin light flimsy - the contractor showed it as a
warning - not as an option.
John T.

The quality of shingles is often graded by their lifespan. You
probabal wouldn't want the cheapest shingles, but if know you'll be
moving within a specific number years, then it doesn't makes to buy
the most expensive.

That may have been true before we had home inspectors. Some even farm
out the roof inspection to a real roofer. They will tell the seller to
ask for $15-20K off the price because the roof is a "defect". They
generally flag any roof that is more than 20-30% of the life span of
the shingles used anyway

In article ,
says...


: get several detailed estimates and talk with the contractors about
everything - they can be a good resource - or their inability to
answer your questions can be a red flag. Sometimes the estimator is
more of a salesman - rather than a tradesman !
: don't just consider the shingles - eave starter; flashing;
ventilation, repairs - are all important too.
: beware of the contractor who can "start next week" .. the good
ones are usually busy & booked up .
You could visit your local building supply store in advance just to
compare and calculate the cost difference of the materials -
we were shown 3 grades of shingles - the lowest grade was quite
inferior - thin light flimsy - the contractor showed it as a warning
- not as an option.
John T.


Yes, get several estiments. I did not know any roofers several years
ago so went to Home Advisor and had 4 companies come out for estiments.
For about a 28 square roof, two were close at just under $ 9,000. A
third was about $ 12,000 and one was almost $ 20,000. I went with the
2nd highest one around $ 9,000. He seemed to have a quality product and
a good lone time warrenty when I bought the better quality of his
offerings.
While it has only been 3 years, they still look good and have weathered
several big wind storms. The singles had a certain numer of nails for
each one depending on the pitch of the roof. I noticed the roofers used
one more nail per shingle than recommended for my pitch of roof.

On Tue, 13 Mar 2018 07:01:45 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote in


The biggest plus is that it allows full inspection of the sheathing to
make sure it's not rotted, deteriorated, that it's in good shape and
not in need of replacement. Personally, on just about any roof, I'd
pay the extra cost for removal. The older the house, if there have
been any leaks, any issues, then the more important it becomes.


+1
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.

On Tue, 13 Mar 2018 18:33:25 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:

In article ,
says...


: get several detailed estimates and talk with the contractors about
everything - they can be a good resource - or their inability to
answer your questions can be a red flag. Sometimes the estimator is
more of a salesman - rather than a tradesman !
: don't just consider the shingles - eave starter; flashing;
ventilation, repairs - are all important too.
: beware of the contractor who can "start next week" .. the good
ones are usually busy & booked up .
You could visit your local building supply store in advance just to
compare and calculate the cost difference of the materials -
we were shown 3 grades of shingles - the lowest grade was quite
inferior - thin light flimsy - the contractor showed it as a warning
- not as an option.
John T.


Yes, get several estiments. I did not know any roofers several years
ago so went to Home Advisor and had 4 companies come out for estiments.
For about a 28 square roof, two were close at just under $ 9,000. A
third was about $ 12,000 and one was almost $ 20,000. I went with the
2nd highest one around $ 9,000. He seemed to have a quality product and
a good lone time warrenty when I bought the better quality of his
offerings.
While it has only been 3 years, they still look good and have weathered
several big wind storms. The singles had a certain numer of nails for
each one depending on the pitch of the roof. I noticed the roofers used
one more nail per shingle than recommended for my pitch of roof.

I saw a roof being replaced not far from my house while driving home from work.
Looked like a good crew so I stopped and got his business card.
Called him and had him do my house and garage roofs.
Tear-offs. 30 or 40 year "architectural." GAF Timberline.
Both roofs are square hip roofs (pyramid). About 28 squares worth of shingles.
This was in 2001. Cost $4200. They replaced a couple pieces of sheathing and the power
vent. Did a good cleanup job. Think I found only 2 or 3 nails in the grass.
Roofs still look like new.
BTW, he gave me references and some houses he had done in the neighborhood.
And he lived about a mile from me.
About 10 years after they did the roof the ridge caps started curling. Looked bad.
I got on the roof and found they not only curled, but looked worn, like they were old.
I called him twice but never got a response.
So I called around and got a few estimates. The guy I picked knew his stuff and told me
the ridge caps were - can't remember the name - a different manufacturer and known to fail.
In fact there was class action lawsuit that I checked out, but it had expired.
The original roofer didn't know they would fail, but he cut a corner.
Anyway I paid the guy $900 to replace them all. He used about $500 bucks worth of GAF
Timberline caps. I checked the prices.
That's why the roof still looks like new.

On Tue, 13 Mar 2018 05:07:09 -0700 (PDT), Robert11
wrote:

What else should I be asking the Contractor ?

Start and Completion dates. Be sure to get those righting.

On Wednesday, March 14, 2018 at 1:40:10 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 13 Mar 2018 05:07:09 -0700 (PDT), Robert11
wrote:

What else should I be asking the Contractor ?

Start and Completion dates. Be sure to get those righting.

I had a new roof put on the past October. Total rip and replace all ply on the back side of house.
Started at 07:00 am and was cleaned up and gone at 11:30 am.
Under 5 hours. WOW!!

On Wed, 14 Mar 2018 11:07:17 -0700 (PDT), Thomas
wrote:

On Wednesday, March 14, 2018 at 1:40:10 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 13 Mar 2018 05:07:09 -0700 (PDT), Robert11
wrote:

What else should I be asking the Contractor ?

Start and Completion dates. Be sure to get those righting.

I had a new roof put on the past October. Total rip and replace all ply on the back side of house.
Started at 07:00 am and was cleaned up and gone at 11:30 am.
Under 5 hours. WOW!!

I have concrete roof barrel tiles. Dang if I want to go there. I
posted a video of "MrMegaFredZeppelin" before. He is in Nor Cal. One
day to rip and dry-in, next was the finish.

Rip Off

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XMoMHV2lw0

Finished

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XMoMHV2lw0

Fred is a good guy.
--
Gentlemen, you know the rules - there *are* no rules. This is a fight to the finish. The first man who's dead loses. Wimpy