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[email protected] December 5th 17 12:21 AM

Drylock paint too?
 
HI,
My homes water well is accessible from within my basement in a concrete room surrounded by earth on 5 sides (the 6th side being accessible from within my basement via a door). This room is covered by 3-6€ of soil above, and has a concrete slab roof with a steel hatch through which the well was originally drilled. When I waterproofed the perimeter of my basement 5 years ago, I exposed this room down to the houses footer/toe drain, cleaned all concrete surfaces, applied asphaltic coating and impermeable membrane, and backfilled. This has kept liquid water out ever since, but that well room is still €œdamp€ from time to time. I store nothing in there. It houses my (jet) pump, and a pressure tank for the house. Now that Ive finished my basement as living space, I installed a door on this room to limit the pump noise, and general dampness.

Question: should I bother to also apply a coating of Drylock or other concrete sealer to the interior of this room, and maybe the floor too? Would that help with minimizing the humidity, or just money thrown away?
All opinions appreciated.

Thanks
Theodore


Iggy December 5th 17 03:44 AM

Drylock paint too?
 
replying to millinghill, Iggy wrote:
The Drylok will do a good job at dropping the humidity level, but it usually
only stays adhered for a maximum of 10-years. After that, as little as
5-years, it should be scraped off and a new coat or 2 put on. If you get
10-years per application it's not too horrible, but as you discovered with the
rest of the basement, the exterior inflow needs to be addressed...even if it's
that room's roof.

Your waterproofing the rest of the basement is fine, but you may have only
stopped the water just from entering the walls...for now. Meaning, the
well-room may be your last chance to get everything right. Water must run and
flow away from the building and not be allowed to sit or gather for your
treatments to last.

The ground should gently ramp down and away from the house, there should be no
puddles anywhere, gutter downspouts should either have long legs on them or be
depositing into concrete aproned watertight piping that releases far away or
onto a steeper and lower slope and the yard should be sculpted with gentle
crowns leading to perimeter gullies or swales to stop any water from flooding
into the home's dry zone.

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