I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...lpage_o00_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.

I currently have a gas dryer, but need additonal capacity.

Thansk.

On 06/02/2017 10:51 AM, Boris wrote:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...lpage_o00_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1


That should be just fine.

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 11:54:49 AM UTC-4, Boris wrote:
I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...lpage_o00_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.

I currently have a gas dryer, but need additonal capacity.

Thansk.

Why are some saying it's not safe? As long as the dryer is
rated at 30A or less, I see nothing wrong with it. Using
a 10 ft cord is a bit unusual, but as long as you locate it
and use it responsibly, I don't see a problem.

In article 8,
lid says...

I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...lpage_o00_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.

I currently have a gas dryer, but need additonal capacity.

Thansk.

What reason did they give for it not being safe ?

It is a 3 wire cord which meets the old standard. Newer rules say that
the cords must be 4 wires to be safer, but the old 3 wire standard is ok
of not upgrading the house wiring. Is that the reason ?

As long as the cord is rated for dryer service and the current rating is
not exceeded, I do not see any problem. Seems that it has over a 4 star
rating, so should be fine for your case.

trader_4 wrote in
:

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 11:54:49 AM UTC-4, Boris wrote:
I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...detailpage_o00
_s00? ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.

I currently have a gas dryer, but need additonal capacity.

Thansk.

Why are some saying it's not safe? As long as the dryer is
rated at 30A or less, I see nothing wrong with it. Using
a 10 ft cord is a bit unusual, but as long as you locate it
and use it responsibly, I don't see a problem.

I agree with you. Those that say no are some amazon reviewers that insist
going with newer code.

Ralph Mowery wrote in
k.net:

In article 8,
lid says...

I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...detailpage_o00
_s00? ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.

I currently have a gas dryer, but need additonal capacity.

Thansk.

What reason did they give for it not being safe ?

Because it's not the standard 6' install, and it may overheat. I say
they don't know what they are talking about. If the cord is same gauge
as home 30 amp circuit, fine.

It is a 3 wire cord which meets the old standard. Newer rules say that
the cords must be 4 wires to be safer, but the old 3 wire standard is
ok of not upgrading the house wiring. Is that the reason ?

Some cite newer code, some say it will overheat.

As long as the cord is rated for dryer service and the current rating
is not exceeded, I do not see any problem. Seems that it has over a 4
star rating, so should be fine for your case.

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 20:36:11 -0000 (UTC), Boris
wrote:



Because it's not the standard 6' install, and it may overheat. I say
they don't know what they are talking about. If the cord is same gauge
as home 30 amp circuit, fine.

Overheating is not an issue at all. The heat distribution from voltage
drop will be exactly as it would be with a 3 foot cord and in a 10ga
wire that is negligible anyway. Dryers only pull about 21-22a.


Some cite newer code,


The only code would apply to the part in the wall. If a 3 wire
receptacle was installed per the 1996 or earlier code it is perfectly
legal to use.
If you are in Chicago, there may be a 6' limit to any cord tho. That
is just Chicago tho.

On 6/2/2017 11:51 AM, Boris wrote:
I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...lpage_o00_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.


The 3-wire cord (L1, L2 and Neutral) has no ground conductor so it connects the metal dryer cabinet to your power company's neutral wire. All is well as long as your power company neutral connection doesn't fail. If/when the power company neutral fails,
the neutral's voltage can rise to near line voltage which means the voltage on the metal cabinet of your dryer will rise as well. Obviously an unsafe condition.

The 4-wire cord (L1, L2, Neutral and Ground) adds a ground conductor so that the metal dryer cabinet is bonded to your homes ground rod system. The neutral wire in the 4-wire cable is NOT connected to your dryer's cabinet. With a 4-wire cord, if the power
company Neutral connection fails and the voltage rises on the Neutral, your dryer cabinet will remain at zero volts.

So, I guess your 3-wire cable is safe until you lose the power company Neutral connection...then things become not-so-safe.

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 17:19:28 -0400, Hooda Guest
wrote:

On 6/2/2017 11:51 AM, Boris wrote:
I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...lpage_o00_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.


The 3-wire cord (L1, L2 and Neutral) has no ground conductor so it connects the metal dryer cabinet to your power company's neutral wire. All is well as long as your power company neutral connection doesn't fail. If/when the power company neutral fails,
the neutral's voltage can rise to near line voltage which means the voltage on the metal cabinet of your dryer will rise as well. Obviously an unsafe condition.

The 4-wire cord (L1, L2, Neutral and Ground) adds a ground conductor so that the metal dryer cabinet is bonded to your homes ground rod system. The neutral wire in the 4-wire cable is NOT connected to your dryer's cabinet. With a 4-wire cord, if the power
company Neutral connection fails and the voltage rises on the Neutral, your dryer cabinet will remain at zero volts.

So, I guess your 3-wire cable is safe until you lose the power company Neutral connection...then things become not-so-safe.

Since the neutral and ground are bonded at the service entrance, that
is a distinction without a difference. In fact, when the 3 wire plug
was legal the neutral was required to originate on the same bus as the
main bonding jumper.

wrote in
:

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 20:36:11 -0000 (UTC), Boris
wrote:



Because it's not the standard 6' install, and it may overheat. I say
they don't know what they are talking about. If the cord is same
gauge as home 30 amp circuit, fine.

Overheating is not an issue at all. The heat distribution from voltage
drop will be exactly as it would be with a 3 foot cord and in a 10ga
wire that is negligible anyway. Dryers only pull about 21-22a.


Some cite newer code,


The only code would apply to the part in the wall. If a 3 wire
receptacle was installed per the 1996 or earlier code it is perfectly
legal to use.

It's a 3-wire receptacle, and the home was built circa 1978.

If you are in Chicago, there may be a 6' limit to any cord tho. That
is just Chicago tho.

Where I am, I believe that rule does apply now, but only to homes built
after 1996, or if it is a major remodel including service entrance
wiring.

Hooda Guest wrote in
:

On 6/2/2017 11:51 AM, Boris wrote:
I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...detailpage_o00
_s00? ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.


The 3-wire cord (L1, L2 and Neutral) has no ground conductor so it
connects the metal dryer cabinet to your power company's neutral wire.
All is well as long as your power company neutral connection doesn't
fail. If/when the power company neutral fails, the neutral's voltage
can rise to near line voltage which means the voltage on the metal
cabinet of your dryer will rise as well. Obviously an unsafe
condition.

The 4-wire cord (L1, L2, Neutral and Ground) adds a ground conductor
so that the metal dryer cabinet is bonded to your homes ground rod
system. The neutral wire in the 4-wire cable is NOT connected to your
dryer's cabinet. With a 4-wire cord, if the power company Neutral
connection fails and the voltage rises on the Neutral, your dryer
cabinet will remain at zero volts.

So, I guess your 3-wire cable is safe until you lose the power company
Neutral connection...then things become not-so-safe.



I understand, and if I remember correctly, that was one person's comment
on amazon.

On 6/2/2017 6:27 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 17:19:28 -0400, Hooda Guest
wrote:

On 6/2/2017 11:51 AM, Boris wrote:
I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...lpage_o00_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.

The 3-wire cord (L1, L2 and Neutral) has no ground conductor so it connects the metal dryer cabinet to your power company's neutral wire. All is well as long as your power company neutral connection doesn't fail. If/when the power company neutral fails,
the neutral's voltage can rise to near line voltage which means the voltage on the metal cabinet of your dryer will rise as well. Obviously an unsafe condition.

The 4-wire cord (L1, L2, Neutral and Ground) adds a ground conductor so that the metal dryer cabinet is bonded to your homes ground rod system. The neutral wire in the 4-wire cable is NOT connected to your dryer's cabinet. With a 4-wire cord, if the power
company Neutral connection fails and the voltage rises on the Neutral, your dryer cabinet will remain at zero volts.

So, I guess your 3-wire cable is safe until you lose the power company Neutral connection...then things become not-so-safe.
Since the neutral and ground are bonded at the service entrance, that
is a distinction without a difference. In fact, when the 3 wire plug
was legal the neutral was required to originate on the same bus as the
main bonding jumper.

Yah, distinction without a difference is a nice loophole around code. You can upgrade ungrounded receptacles by just jumpering the neutral to ground on the receptacle. Easy-peasy & cheap.

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 20:29:56 -0400, Scott
wrote:

On 6/2/2017 6:27 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 17:19:28 -0400, Hooda Guest
wrote:

On 6/2/2017 11:51 AM, Boris wrote:
I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...lpage_o00_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.

The 3-wire cord (L1, L2 and Neutral) has no ground conductor so it connects the metal dryer cabinet to your power company's neutral wire. All is well as long as your power company neutral connection doesn't fail. If/when the power company neutral fails,
the neutral's voltage can rise to near line voltage which means the voltage on the metal cabinet of your dryer will rise as well. Obviously an unsafe condition.

The 4-wire cord (L1, L2, Neutral and Ground) adds a ground conductor so that the metal dryer cabinet is bonded to your homes ground rod system. The neutral wire in the 4-wire cable is NOT connected to your dryer's cabinet. With a 4-wire cord, if the power
company Neutral connection fails and the voltage rises on the Neutral, your dryer cabinet will remain at zero volts.

So, I guess your 3-wire cable is safe until you lose the power company Neutral connection...then things become not-so-safe.
Since the neutral and ground are bonded at the service entrance, that
is a distinction without a difference. In fact, when the 3 wire plug
was legal the neutral was required to originate on the same bus as the
main bonding jumper.

Yah, distinction without a difference is a nice loophole around code. You can upgrade ungrounded receptacles by just jumpering the neutral to ground on the receptacle. Easy-peasy & cheap.

If the utility neutral opens, you are depending on the integrity of
the grounding system either way.
The exception for ranges and dryers came during WWII when copper was
in short supply and they decided the danger of sharing the neutral on
these particular circuits was minimal.The reality is there was never a
significant body count for over a half a century but Phil Simmonds on
the CMP that handles article 250 said the war was over in the 96 ROP
and the NFPA panel agreed. The official reason was just to be
consistent with the rule you imply.

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 15:51:14 -0000 (UTC), Boris
wrote:

I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...lpage_o00_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.

I currently have a gas dryer, but need additonal capacity.

Thansk.
What would make it unsafe? It is designed for the job.

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 17:19:28 -0400, Hooda Guest
wrote:

On 6/2/2017 11:51 AM, Boris wrote:
I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...lpage_o00_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.


The 3-wire cord (L1, L2 and Neutral) has no ground conductor so it connects the metal dryer cabinet to your power company's neutral wire. All is well as long as your power company neutral connection doesn't fail. If/when the power company neutral fails,
the neutral's voltage can rise to near line voltage which means the voltage on the metal cabinet of your dryer will rise as well. Obviously an unsafe condition.

The 4-wire cord (L1, L2, Neutral and Ground) adds a ground conductor so that the metal dryer cabinet is bonded to your homes ground rod system. The neutral wire in the 4-wire cable is NOT connected to your dryer's cabinet. With a 4-wire cord, if the power
company Neutral connection fails and the voltage rises on the Neutral, your dryer cabinet will remain at zero volts.

So, I guess your 3-wire cable is safe until you lose the power company Neutral connection...then things become not-so-safe.
But the drier already has a 3 wire plug in all likelihood.

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 20:29:56 -0400, Scott
wrote:

On 6/2/2017 6:27 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 17:19:28 -0400, Hooda Guest
wrote:

On 6/2/2017 11:51 AM, Boris wrote:
I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...lpage_o00_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.

The 3-wire cord (L1, L2 and Neutral) has no ground conductor so it connects the metal dryer cabinet to your power company's neutral wire. All is well as long as your power company neutral connection doesn't fail. If/when the power company neutral fails,
the neutral's voltage can rise to near line voltage which means the voltage on the metal cabinet of your dryer will rise as well. Obviously an unsafe condition.

The 4-wire cord (L1, L2, Neutral and Ground) adds a ground conductor so that the metal dryer cabinet is bonded to your homes ground rod system. The neutral wire in the 4-wire cable is NOT connected to your dryer's cabinet. With a 4-wire cord, if the power
company Neutral connection fails and the voltage rises on the Neutral, your dryer cabinet will remain at zero volts.

So, I guess your 3-wire cable is safe until you lose the power company Neutral connection...then things become not-so-safe.
Since the neutral and ground are bonded at the service entrance, that
is a distinction without a difference. In fact, when the 3 wire plug
was legal the neutral was required to originate on the same bus as the
main bonding jumper.

Yah, distinction without a difference is a nice loophole around code. You can upgrade ungrounded receptacles by just jumpering the neutral to ground on the receptacle. Easy-peasy & cheap.
It works - it is functional, but not legal.

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 8:30:00 PM UTC-4, Scott wrote:
On 6/2/2017 6:27 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 17:19:28 -0400, Hooda Guest
wrote:

On 6/2/2017 11:51 AM, Boris wrote:
I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...lpage_o00_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.

The 3-wire cord (L1, L2 and Neutral) has no ground conductor so it connects the metal dryer cabinet to your power company's neutral wire. All is well as long as your power company neutral connection doesn't fail. If/when the power company neutral fails,
the neutral's voltage can rise to near line voltage which means the voltage on the metal cabinet of your dryer will rise as well. Obviously an unsafe condition.

The 4-wire cord (L1, L2, Neutral and Ground) adds a ground conductor so that the metal dryer cabinet is bonded to your homes ground rod system. The neutral wire in the 4-wire cable is NOT connected to your dryer's cabinet. With a 4-wire cord, if the power
company Neutral connection fails and the voltage rises on the Neutral, your dryer cabinet will remain at zero volts.

So, I guess your 3-wire cable is safe until you lose the power company Neutral connection...then things become not-so-safe.
Since the neutral and ground are bonded at the service entrance, that
is a distinction without a difference. In fact, when the 3 wire plug
was legal the neutral was required to originate on the same bus as the
main bonding jumper.

Yah, distinction without a difference is a nice loophole around code. You can upgrade ungrounded receptacles by just jumpering the neutral to ground on the receptacle. Easy-peasy & cheap.

You can do it, but it's a code violation.

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 7:04:23 PM UTC-4, Boris wrote:
Hooda Guest wrote in
:

On 6/2/2017 11:51 AM, Boris wrote:
I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...detailpage_o00
_s00? ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.


The 3-wire cord (L1, L2 and Neutral) has no ground conductor so it
connects the metal dryer cabinet to your power company's neutral wire.
All is well as long as your power company neutral connection doesn't
fail. If/when the power company neutral fails, the neutral's voltage
can rise to near line voltage which means the voltage on the metal
cabinet of your dryer will rise as well. Obviously an unsafe
condition.

The 4-wire cord (L1, L2, Neutral and Ground) adds a ground conductor
so that the metal dryer cabinet is bonded to your homes ground rod
system. The neutral wire in the 4-wire cable is NOT connected to your
dryer's cabinet. With a 4-wire cord, if the power company Neutral
connection fails and the voltage rises on the Neutral, your dryer
cabinet will remain at zero volts.

So, I guess your 3-wire cable is safe until you lose the power company
Neutral connection...then things become not-so-safe.



I understand, and if I remember correctly, that was one person's comment
on amazon.

That applies to any 3 wire dryer CIRCUIT. It has nothing to do with
whether you use a 10 ft cord or a 3 ft cord. And if it's such a safety
hazard, it's rather odd that dryers being sold today include
instructions to use them with either a 3 wire or 4 wire circuit.
Basically you have a bunch of dummies posting whatever on Amazon.

On 6/3/2017 9:38 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 7:04:23 PM UTC-4, Boris wrote:
Hooda Guest wrote in
:

On 6/2/2017 11:51 AM, Boris wrote:
I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...detailpage_o00
_s00? ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.


The 3-wire cord (L1, L2 and Neutral) has no ground conductor so it
connects the metal dryer cabinet to your power company's neutral wire.
All is well as long as your power company neutral connection doesn't
fail. If/when the power company neutral fails, the neutral's voltage
can rise to near line voltage which means the voltage on the metal
cabinet of your dryer will rise as well. Obviously an unsafe
condition.

The 4-wire cord (L1, L2, Neutral and Ground) adds a ground conductor
so that the metal dryer cabinet is bonded to your homes ground rod
system. The neutral wire in the 4-wire cable is NOT connected to your
dryer's cabinet. With a 4-wire cord, if the power company Neutral
connection fails and the voltage rises on the Neutral, your dryer
cabinet will remain at zero volts.

So, I guess your 3-wire cable is safe until you lose the power company
Neutral connection...then things become not-so-safe.



I understand, and if I remember correctly, that was one person's comment
on amazon.

That applies to any 3 wire dryer CIRCUIT. It has nothing to do with
whether you use a 10 ft cord or a 3 ft cord. And if it's such a safety
hazard, it's rather odd that dryers being sold today include
instructions to use them with either a 3 wire or 4 wire circuit.
Basically you have a bunch of dummies posting whatever on Amazon.

Dummies...Amazon...yes indeed.

On 06/03/2017 12:34 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 8:30:00 PM UTC-4, Scott wrote:
On 6/2/2017 6:27 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 17:19:28 -0400, Hooda Guest
wrote:

On 6/2/2017 11:51 AM, Boris wrote:
I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...lpage_o00_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.
The 3-wire cord (L1, L2 and Neutral) has no ground conductor so it connects the metal dryer cabinet to your power company's neutral wire. All is well as long as your power company neutral connection doesn't fail. If/when the power company neutral fails,
the neutral's voltage can rise to near line voltage which means the voltage on the metal cabinet of your dryer will rise as well. Obviously an unsafe condition.

The 4-wire cord (L1, L2, Neutral and Ground) adds a ground conductor so that the metal dryer cabinet is bonded to your homes ground rod system. The neutral wire in the 4-wire cable is NOT connected to your dryer's cabinet. With a 4-wire cord, if the power
company Neutral connection fails and the voltage rises on the Neutral, your dryer cabinet will remain at zero volts.

So, I guess your 3-wire cable is safe until you lose the power company Neutral connection...then things become not-so-safe.
Since the neutral and ground are bonded at the service entrance, that
is a distinction without a difference. In fact, when the 3 wire plug
was legal the neutral was required to originate on the same bus as the
main bonding jumper.
Yah, distinction without a difference is a nice loophole around code. You can upgrade ungrounded receptacles by just jumpering the neutral to ground on the receptacle. Easy-peasy & cheap.
You can do it, but it's a code violation.

Code aside, if it's safe to connect the neutral to ground on an electric
stove then it should be just as safe to connect the neutral to ground on
a standard wall receptacle.

On Sat, 3 Jun 2017 15:47:54 -0400, Bo
wrote:


Code aside, if it's safe to connect the neutral to ground on an electric
stove then it should be just as safe to connect the neutral to ground on
a standard wall receptacle.

Not exactly. The line to neutral load on a dryer or range circuit is a
fraction of what it is in a pure 120v circuit, compared to wire size,
so the voltage drop on the neutral (rise above ground in this case) is
far less. There is also the problem on a 120v circuit that if someone
swapped neutral and ground along the way, you are putting 120v
directly on the case of your equipment and a 3 light tester will still
say "OK".

On Saturday, June 3, 2017 at 4:42:12 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 3 Jun 2017 15:47:54 -0400, Bo
wrote:


Code aside, if it's safe to connect the neutral to ground on an electric
stove then it should be just as safe to connect the neutral to ground on
a standard wall receptacle.

Not exactly. The line to neutral load on a dryer or range circuit is a
fraction of what it is in a pure 120v circuit, compared to wire size,
so the voltage drop on the neutral (rise above ground in this case) is
far less. There is also the problem on a 120v circuit that if someone
swapped neutral and ground along the way, you are putting 120v
directly on the case of your equipment and a 3 light tester will still
say "OK".

And the probability of something coming loose on a typical Daisy chained circuit is a lot higher than with a homerun dryer circuit.

And the probability of something coming loose on a typical Daisy chained circuit is a lot higher than with a homerun dryer circuit.

if you want to use a 3 wire 220V system, I suggest you attach an additional safety ground wire to the case of the appliance and connect it to a metal water pipe of other good ground.

m

Long ago I got a shock at work hooking up a network cable.

In those days we used shielded bi-ax. I had one hand on the end of the cable and grabbed another cable to connect to the next computer downstream.

Well, the first computer had hot and neutral switched, and the case was hot.. The second computer was wired correctly, and the case was at ground or neutral (not sure - could be both.) So the cable shield made a path from chassis to chassis.

If the first computer also had a ground connection, it should have tripped the breaker when we plugged it in. There was no separate ground wire on that three prong/hole outlet. The safety ground was theoretically supplied by metallic conduit, and there wasn't continuity all the way back. That shows one possible problem with not having a safety ground at the outlet.

On Mon, 5 Jun 2017 07:26:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:



And the probability of something coming loose on a typical Daisy chained circuit is a lot higher than with a homerun dryer circuit.

if you want to use a 3 wire 220V system, I suggest you attach an additional safety ground wire to the case of the appliance and connect it to a metal water pipe of other good ground.

m

Since the 60s, most of those 6-30 three prong receptacles are
actually connected to 10/3-wg Romex anyway since that was the standard
way it was manufactured. If you look in the box, you may see the bare
ground bonded to the box and the neutral connected to the receptacle.
Because of the higher temperature/ampacity ratings, stoves may still
be wired with SE cable (2 wire plus ground)

On Monday, June 5, 2017 at 1:06:12 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jun 2017 07:26:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:



And the probability of something coming loose on a typical Daisy chained circuit is a lot higher than with a homerun dryer circuit.

if you want to use a 3 wire 220V system, I suggest you attach an additional safety ground wire to the case of the appliance and connect it to a metal water pipe of other good ground.

m

Since the 60s, most of those 6-30 three prong receptacles are
actually connected to 10/3-wg Romex anyway since that was the standard
way it was manufactured. If you look in the box, you may see the bare
ground bonded to the box and the neutral connected to the receptacle.
Because of the higher temperature/ampacity ratings, stoves may still
be wired with SE cable (2 wire plus ground)

ok, sounds like you are talking about a 3 prong 120 v outlet and what you said is all true.

but the thread is about 3 prong 220V outlets. One prong is 120v. 2nd is the other 120V and the third prong is neutral and ___there is no ground prong__
which is what can make them dangerous if there is an open fault in the neutral. Code for new installs requires 220V outlets to be 4 prongs to add a safety ground. If you are going to use a older 3 prong 220V output that has no safety ground, i was suggesting that you add a ground wire for safety..


m

On Mon, 5 Jun 2017 11:47:12 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Monday, June 5, 2017 at 1:06:12 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jun 2017 07:26:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:



And the probability of something coming loose on a typical Daisy chained circuit is a lot higher than with a homerun dryer circuit.

if you want to use a 3 wire 220V system, I suggest you attach an additional safety ground wire to the case of the appliance and connect it to a metal water pipe of other good ground.

m

Since the 60s, most of those 6-30 three prong receptacles are
actually connected to 10/3-wg Romex anyway since that was the standard
way it was manufactured. If you look in the box, you may see the bare
ground bonded to the box and the neutral connected to the receptacle.
Because of the higher temperature/ampacity ratings, stoves may still
be wired with SE cable (2 wire plus ground)

ok, sounds like you are talking about a 3 prong 120 v outlet and what you said is all true.

6-30 IS 240v (an old style dryer receptacle)

but the thread is about 3 prong 220V outlets. One prong is 120v. 2nd is the other 120V and the third prong is neutral and ___there is no ground prong__
which is what can make them dangerous if there is an open fault in the neutral. Code for new installs requires 220V outlets to be 4 prongs to add a safety ground. If you are going to use a older 3 prong 220V output that has no safety ground, i was suggesting that you add a ground wire for safety.



If the neutral opens on a dryer, it probably will not run since the
controls are 120v and so is the motor. With the 6-30 you will have a
hot case tho if you do not add the supplemental ground mentioned up
thread.
Far better than a water pipe is the box for the washer receptacle.
There is too much plastic in plumbing to trust a pipe. Even on "all
metal" systems you still have water softeners, whole house filters etc
and you can't count on people putting a 250.66 bond wire around all of
them.

On Mon, 5 Jun 2017 07:26:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:



And the probability of something coming loose on a typical Daisy chained circuit is a lot higher than with a homerun dryer circuit.

if you want to use a 3 wire 220V system, I suggest you attach an additional safety ground wire to the case of the appliance and connect it to a metal water pipe of other good ground.

m

Definitely NOT a bad idea. Just make sure the water pipe IS a good
ground - or a failure in the drier could make all the plumbing
fixtures in the house "live". Make sure the jumper on the water heater
and the water meter are both in place and effective.

On Mon, 5 Jun 2017 11:47:12 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Monday, June 5, 2017 at 1:06:12 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jun 2017 07:26:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:



And the probability of something coming loose on a typical Daisy chained circuit is a lot higher than with a homerun dryer circuit.

if you want to use a 3 wire 220V system, I suggest you attach an additional safety ground wire to the case of the appliance and connect it to a metal water pipe of other good ground.

m

Since the 60s, most of those 6-30 three prong receptacles are
actually connected to 10/3-wg Romex anyway since that was the standard
way it was manufactured. If you look in the box, you may see the bare
ground bonded to the box and the neutral connected to the receptacle.
Because of the higher temperature/ampacity ratings, stoves may still
be wired with SE cable (2 wire plus ground)

ok, sounds like you are talking about a 3 prong 120 v outlet and what you said is all true.

but the thread is about 3 prong 220V outlets. One prong is 120v. 2nd is the other 120V and the third prong is neutral and ___there is no ground prong__
which is what can make them dangerous if there is an open fault in the neutral. Code for new installs requires 220V outlets to be 4 prongs to add a safety ground. If you are going to use a older 3 prong 220V output that has no safety ground, i was suggesting that you add a ground wire for safety.


m


Have we determined exactly where this abomination is? Do we KNOW it is
not a Euro plug?

On Mon, 05 Jun 2017 23:51:56 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 5 Jun 2017 11:47:12 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Monday, June 5, 2017 at 1:06:12 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jun 2017 07:26:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:



And the probability of something coming loose on a typical Daisy chained circuit is a lot higher than with a homerun dryer circuit.

if you want to use a 3 wire 220V system, I suggest you attach an additional safety ground wire to the case of the appliance and connect it to a metal water pipe of other good ground.

m

Since the 60s, most of those 6-30 three prong receptacles are
actually connected to 10/3-wg Romex anyway since that was the standard
way it was manufactured. If you look in the box, you may see the bare
ground bonded to the box and the neutral connected to the receptacle.
Because of the higher temperature/ampacity ratings, stoves may still
be wired with SE cable (2 wire plus ground)

ok, sounds like you are talking about a 3 prong 120 v outlet and what you said is all true.

but the thread is about 3 prong 220V outlets. One prong is 120v. 2nd is the other 120V and the third prong is neutral and ___there is no ground prong__
which is what can make them dangerous if there is an open fault in the neutral. Code for new installs requires 220V outlets to be 4 prongs to add a safety ground. If you are going to use a older 3 prong 220V output that has no safety ground, i was suggesting that you add a ground wire for safety.


m


Have we determined exactly where this abomination is? Do we KNOW it is
not a Euro plug?
Sorry- got mixed up with red and black thread - -

On 06/03/2017 06:04 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, June 3, 2017 at 4:42:12 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 3 Jun 2017 15:47:54 -0400, Bo
wrote:


Code aside, if it's safe to connect the neutral to ground on an electric
stove then it should be just as safe to connect the neutral to ground on
a standard wall receptacle.
Not exactly. The line to neutral load on a dryer or range circuit is a
fraction of what it is in a pure 120v circuit, compared to wire size,
so the voltage drop on the neutral (rise above ground in this case) is
far less. There is also the problem on a 120v circuit that if someone
swapped neutral and ground along the way, you are putting 120v
directly on the case of your equipment and a 3 light tester will still
say "OK".
And the probability of something coming loose on a typical Daisy chained circuit is a lot higher than with a homerun dryer circuit.


Dryers vibrate so I'd think their connections might loosen.

Code aside, if it's safe to connect the neutral to ground on an electric
stove then it should be just as safe to connect the neutral to ground on
a standard wall receptacle.


its safe only until something goes wrong, then it is very dangerous.

the separate 4th ground wire is intended to keep it safe even if something goes wrong.

m

Boris wrote in
09.88:

I have to place a dryer 10 feet from it's plug in, breaker dedicated
outlet. I would like to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...detailpage_o00
_
s00? ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some say this is safe, others say it's not. I'd like your opinion.

I currently have a gas dryer, but need additonal capacity.

Thansk.

Three days ago, I installed a new dryer with the 3-prong, 10' dryer
cord, that allowed me to place the dryer in the only spot it could go.
I did a couple of loads, and all is well. The cord did not even get
warm.

I read all your replies (thanks), and understand the the differences
between 3- and 4- wire 220v circuits. Every home I've lived in, so far,
has been built before 1996. As time goes by, codes become more and more
stringent, sometimes benefiting the end user, sometimes just the
contractor/manufacturer. But, I can definitely appreciate grounding a
steel cabinet to a home's ground.

On 6/23/2017 5:06 PM, Boris wrote:
I read all your replies (thanks), and understand the the differences
between 3- and 4- wire 220v circuits. Every home I've lived in, so far,
has been built before 1996. As time goes by, codes become more and more
stringent, sometimes benefiting the end user, sometimes just the
contractor/manufacturer. But, I can definitely appreciate grounding a
steel cabinet to a home's ground.


Ground and neutral are bonded at the service entrance so no need to waste extra copper on a 4-wire circuit.

On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 17:28:07 -0400, Roy Biggins
wrote:

On 6/23/2017 5:06 PM, Boris wrote:
I read all your replies (thanks), and understand the the differences
between 3- and 4- wire 220v circuits. Every home I've lived in, so far,
has been built before 1996. As time goes by, codes become more and more
stringent, sometimes benefiting the end user, sometimes just the
contractor/manufacturer. But, I can definitely appreciate grounding a
steel cabinet to a home's ground.


Ground and neutral are bonded at the service entrance so no need to waste extra copper on a 4-wire circuit.
True if everything oes according to plan. What happens if your neutral
fails? Being a 240 device, everything still works - unless there is
aome 120 components (like the interior light, or the timer) in which
case the case becomes live.
There IS a GOOD reason 4 wire is now required by code. get used to
it.

On 06/24/2017 05:03 AM, Wayne Boatwright wrote:
On Fri 23 Jun 2017 06:55:28p, told us...

On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 17:28:07 -0400, Roy Biggins
wrote:

On 6/23/2017 5:06 PM, Boris wrote:
I read all your replies (thanks), and understand the the
differences between 3- and 4- wire 220v circuits. Every home
I've lived in, so far, has been built before 1996. As time goes
by, codes become more and more stringent, sometimes benefiting
the end user, sometimes just the contractor/manufacturer. But,
I can definitely appreciate grounding a steel cabinet to a
home's ground.

Ground and neutral are bonded at the service entrance so no need
to waste extra copper on a 4-wire circuit.
True if everything oes according to plan. What happens if your
neutral fails? Being a 240 device, everything still works - unless
there is aome 120 components (like the interior light, or the
timer) in which case the case becomes live.
There IS a GOOD reason 4 wire is now required by code. get used
to
it.

We're used to it because we have no choice where we now live. All
the homes we owned before had 3-wire circuits and there was never a
problem. There was certainly no mandate to retrofit for 4-wire For
many decades 3-wire was the norm and I doubt that there were that
many problems during those years.


Pretty soon the do-gooder guy wire police will run out of guy wires to
inspect and they'll be wanting to inspect your electric stove's power cord.

Boris posted for all of us...


Three days ago, I installed a new dryer with the 3-prong, 10' dryer
cord, that allowed me to place the dryer in the only spot it could go.
I did a couple of loads, and all is well. The cord did not even get
warm.

I read all your replies (thanks), and understand the the differences
between 3- and 4- wire 220v circuits. Every home I've lived in, so far,
has been built before 1996. As time goes by, codes become more and more
stringent, sometimes benefiting the end user, sometimes just the
contractor/manufacturer. But, I can definitely appreciate grounding a
steel cabinet to a home's ground.


Be sure to check the connectors. I had a buddy that had one of these that
called me for a smell of burning plastic. Upon inspection it was a connector
which I assumed was improperly done at the factory.

--
Tekkie