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Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
I have a question about mounting and balancing tires at home that didn't
come up when I was researching this problem. If you have never mounted or balanced your own passenger-car tires, then you won't know the answers (most likely) but if you have, you'll know because you must have solved this problem. I have the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh Manual Tire Changer HF item #62317 which is mounted in concrete so that it is stable. That tire changer comes with a "bead breaker" but the bead is just not breaking when I used it today! http://i.cubeupload.com/f8FCTC.jpg I also bought a couple of Harbor Freight item #61603 Pittsburgh 24 in. General Purpose Tire Irons. http://i.cubeupload.com/7q7Tq0.jpg The problem is that the harbor freight tire changer bead breaker just seems to slip off when following the instructions. http://i.cubeupload.com/7CdvVu.jpg I would be glad to use the the Harbor Freight item #67403 Tire Bead Breaker with Swan Neck: http://i.cubeupload.com/Qcg2YR.jpg But it doesn't come with instructions. Have you used these goose-neck bead breakers on passenger tires? Which way does the goose-neck go? a. It can't fit under the rim with the finger pointing up, and, b. It can't fit under the bead with the finger pointing down. So how did you use this bead breaker anyway? |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 23:45:12 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: So how did you use this bead breaker anyway? Lay the tire on ground. let the air out, remove the valve core from the valve stem. Drive your vehicle onto the tire edge and break the bead. Did the guy from Harbor Freight tell you what was needed? |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
Frank Baron wrote:
I have a question about mounting and balancing tires at home that didn't come up when I was researching this problem. If you have never mounted or balanced your own passenger-car tires, then you won't know the answers (most likely) but if you have, you'll know because you must have solved this problem. I have the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh Manual Tire Changer HF item #62317 which is mounted in concrete so that it is stable. That tire changer comes with a "bead breaker" but the bead is just not breaking when I used it today! http://i.cubeupload.com/f8FCTC.jpg I also bought a couple of Harbor Freight item #61603 Pittsburgh 24 in. General Purpose Tire Irons. http://i.cubeupload.com/7q7Tq0.jpg The problem is that the harbor freight tire changer bead breaker just seems to slip off when following the instructions. http://i.cubeupload.com/7CdvVu.jpg I would be glad to use the the Harbor Freight item #67403 Tire Bead Breaker with Swan Neck: http://i.cubeupload.com/Qcg2YR.jpg But it doesn't come with instructions. Have you used these goose-neck bead breakers on passenger tires? Which way does the goose-neck go? a. It can't fit under the rim with the finger pointing up, and, b. It can't fit under the bead with the finger pointing down. So how did you use this bead breaker anyway? Move the top of the vertical piece (with the shoe on the bottom) closer to the pivot on the horizontal arm . You want it to push out as well as down . -- Snag |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 18:19:51 -0600, Terry Coombs advised:
Move the top of the vertical piece (with the shoe on the bottom) closer to the pivot on the horizontal arm . You want it to push out as well as down . I appreciate that you're staying on topic and trying to answer the question of how to break the bead using the two bead breaker tools I pictured (and I appreciate that you didn't give me useless redneck method jokes). I assume you're talking about the red tire breaker (and not the black one), but I'm not sure what you mean by "moving the top of the vertical piece". Are you saying that the red double-arm vertical element should be as straight up and down as possible when I'm pressing down on the red lever handle (that is out of the picture at top)? http://i.cubeupload.com/Qcg2YR.jpg I don't know if I can do that because the tire can get no closer to the vertical red tube as it is now since it *touches* the vertical red tube. Or, do you want me to move the tire in the opposite direction, which is *away* from the vertical tube? I appreciate your advice - but I'm just trying to understand it because we have a terminology issue where I don't know the names for the parts of that red bead breaker contraption. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 16:16:28 -0800, Oren advised:
So how did you use this bead breaker anyway? Lay the tire on ground. let the air out, remove the valve core from the valve stem. Drive your vehicle onto the tire edge and break the bead. Did the guy from Harbor Freight tell you what was needed? I was going to say that I want to do it the "right" way at home. I know all the redneck methods, so I don't really want them. I know about the trailer hitch jack method, and the driving over it method and the use the car as a lever method, etc. But I just want to use the tire breaker because it is *designed* for the job. If you've never broken the bead of a passenger tire with a tire breaker you won't be able to help because this is the kind of question that takes someone who has actually done it. Jokes about going to the tire changing shop are also out of place in this thread (but someone will think he's funny by mentioning that). I just am asking for an answer from someone who knows the answer. Nothing more or less than that. I don't mean to be rude, but I am trying to use the tire breaker and not some redneck method. I'm just asking how. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight beadbreaker?
On 12/12/16 5:45 PM, Frank Baron wrote:
I have a question about mounting and balancing tires at home that didn't come up when I was researching this problem. If you have never mounted or balanced your own passenger-car tires, then you won't know the answers (most likely) but if you have, you'll know because you must have solved this problem. Have you looked on YouTube? Ya know, the old thing about a picture being worth one or ten thousand words? |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 23:45:12 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: I have a question about mounting and balancing tires at home that didn't come up when I was researching this problem. If you have never mounted or balanced your own passenger-car tires, then you won't know the answers (most likely) but if you have, you'll know because you must have solved this problem. I have the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh Manual Tire Changer HF item #62317 which is mounted in concrete so that it is stable. That tire changer comes with a "bead breaker" but the bead is just not breaking when I used it today! http://i.cubeupload.com/f8FCTC.jpg I also bought a couple of Harbor Freight item #61603 Pittsburgh 24 in. General Purpose Tire Irons. http://i.cubeupload.com/7q7Tq0.jpg The problem is that the harbor freight tire changer bead breaker just seems to slip off when following the instructions. http://i.cubeupload.com/7CdvVu.jpg I would be glad to use the the Harbor Freight item #67403 Tire Bead Breaker with Swan Neck: http://i.cubeupload.com/Qcg2YR.jpg But it doesn't come with instructions. Have you used these goose-neck bead breakers on passenger tires? Which way does the goose-neck go? a. It can't fit under the rim with the finger pointing up, and, b. It can't fit under the bead with the finger pointing down. So how did you use this bead breaker anyway? m It's a pretty mediocre bead breaker - and even a good one often needs to be applied to several points around the tire to knock it down. The (cheap) breaker sometimes needs to be tied with a twisted rope to keep them against the rim.. Helps to have it adjusted properly too. You are really going to need to change a lot of tires to pay for the equipment with the money saved by not having someone else do it, and I'll bet you ruin a few tires in the process. If you are doing it yourself because you don't trust tire shops, "rots 'a ruck," If you want instructions, look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7yz9twasEU or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUas5LIY_ok As an apprentice mechanic in the sixties I changed hundreds of tires with a commercial quality manual changer very similar in concept to that machine - got it down to about 4 minutes a tire to strip and re-install a typical 14 or 15 inch bias ply automotive tire - about 16 minutes for a full set of 4 - including removing and installing the wheels on the car (not including putting it up on the hoist or removing hub caps/wheel covers) Not a whole lot faster with the air powered machines that took it's place, but a whole lot less sweat!!!. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 00:35:28 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 18:19:51 -0600, Terry Coombs advised: Move the top of the vertical piece (with the shoe on the bottom) closer to the pivot on the horizontal arm . You want it to push out as well as down . I appreciate that you're staying on topic and trying to answer the question of how to break the bead using the two bead breaker tools I pictured (and I appreciate that you didn't give me useless redneck method jokes). I assume you're talking about the red tire breaker (and not the black one), but I'm not sure what you mean by "moving the top of the vertical piece". Are you saying that the red double-arm vertical element should be as straight up and down as possible when I'm pressing down on the red lever handle (that is out of the picture at top)? http://i.cubeupload.com/Qcg2YR.jpg I don't know if I can do that because the tire can get no closer to the vertical red tube as it is now since it *touches* the vertical red tube. Or, do you want me to move the tire in the opposite direction, which is *away* from the vertical tube? I appreciate your advice - but I'm just trying to understand it because we have a terminology issue where I don't know the names for the parts of that red bead breaker contraption. Move the breaker shoe part in to the first hole on the handle so the shoe pushes out and down when you lean on the handle - as shown in the 'tubes I referenced. The inner part of the rim needs to be against the stop on the foot of the changer. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 00:35:30 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: If you've never broken the bead of a passenger tire with a tire breaker you won't be able to help because this is the kind of question that takes someone who has actually done it. I worked at a Firestone tire shop and local gas stations as a youngster teen. Used the tools and learned the Redneck way in an emergency when a shop with tools was not immediately available, YMMV. We didn't have Harbor Freight tools back then. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight beadbreaker?
On 12/12/2016 05:16 PM, Oren wrote:
Lay the tire on ground. let the air out, remove the valve core from the valve stem. Drive your vehicle onto the tire edge and break the bead. I tried the bumper jack approach to bead breaking once. I jacked the '51 Chevy up just fine; the bead was not impressed. I've done quite a few tube-type bike tires and have had more problems getting the bead to seat than breaking it. Running a short way on the flat tire does the trick if it's really stubborn. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Monday, December 12, 2016 at 8:41:46 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 00:35:30 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron wrote: If you've never broken the bead of a passenger tire with a tire breaker you won't be able to help because this is the kind of question that takes someone who has actually done it. I worked at a Firestone tire shop and local gas stations as a youngster teen. Used the tools and learned the Redneck way in an emergency when a shop with tools was not immediately available, YMMV. We didn't have Harbor Freight tools back then. I did too. And I used a simple air driven machine that broke the bead. I would think HF could duplicate that in China today for $100, make a simple version. Man went to machines for this because to do it with hand tools, is a pain in the ass. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 20:09:56 -0500, advised:
Move the breaker shoe part in to the first hole on the handle so the shoe pushes out and down when you lean on the handle - as shown in the 'tubes I referenced. The inner part of the rim needs to be against the stop on the foot of the changer. Oh. I didn't even realize, until you mentioned that, that there are holes in the handle where we can move the breaker shovel further to the center of the wheel or further away from the center of the wheel. Too bad, because I don't have the SUV (I only have one spare tire right now) as I'm doing this for a relative. Last night, I destroyed the tire changer bead-breaking arm: http://i.cubeupload.com/LqS6N4.jpg It bent like it was made out of butter. I may have to head back to Harbor Freight for this one: http://i.cubeupload.com/ics54M.jpg |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 19:04:13 -0600, Dean Hoffman advised:
Have you looked on YouTube? Ya know, the old thing about a picture being worth one or ten thousand words? Of course I've looked on youtube. There were plenty of mounting videos, for example, but they mostly just showed you the end result, and none of the practical stuff that I learned here. Also, there are lots (and lots) of redneck methods for breaking the bead, and a few on the HF tool. The ones on the HF tool just showed the obvious, which is you press down and that's it. Some even ran into the same problem I ran into which is that the HF tool is made out of butter. http://i.cubeupload.com/LqS6N4.jpg I removed the bent section and will straighten it and try again: http://i.cubeupload.com/mdLDK0.jpg But it may be that I actually will need to buy this tool from HF: http://i.cubeupload.com/ics54M.jpg I also picked up some new tire valves which will be interesting to put in since I have never done it befo http://i.cubeupload.com/DwuIRx.jpg |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 20:07:38 -0500, advised:
It's a pretty mediocre bead breaker - and even a good one often needs to be applied to several points around the tire to knock it down. The (cheap) breaker sometimes needs to be tied with a twisted rope to keep them against the rim.. Helps to have it adjusted properly too. I have to agree with you that it's a "mediocre" bead breaker because I bent the heck out of the breaker arm last night working on the one spare tire that I have (it's not my SUV - I'm helping a relative by doing her tires): http://i.cubeupload.com/LqS6N4.jpg I don't have welding equipment, but I should probably weld on stronger steel to make the arms more rigid: http://i.cubeupload.com/mdLDK0.jpg You are really going to need to change a lot of tires to pay for the equipment with the money saved by not having someone else do it, and I'll bet you ruin a few tires in the process. I had calculated about $200 for the tools which, at about $20 per tire, is about 10 tires. That's about two years payback time, assuming tires changed on two cars every two years plus a flat fix once every two years per car (which is about my rate). So, pretty much, I'm going through 10 tires on two cars every two years so two years from now, it will have paid for itself. If you are doing it yourself because you don't trust tire shops, "rots 'a ruck," Tire shops suck. 1. They don't remove BBS hubcaps with the tool (they just pry them off) 2. They don't remove all the old weights (they just put on more) 3. They don't line up the heavy (or high) spot (they just use more weight) 4. They don't pressurize the tires correctly (everyone gets the same psi) 5. They don't torque lug nuts/bolts correctly (ditto on egalitarianism) 6. I've had bent BMW rims (I think they did it but I can't prove that) |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 19:55:25 -0700, rbowman advised:
I tried the bumper jack approach to bead breaking once. I jacked the '51 Chevy up just fine; the bead was not impressed. Just to let folks know what does *NOT* work, this black swan-neck bead breaker bar from Harbor Freight is utterly useless also. http://i.cubeupload.com/oiD34u.jpg You can't get any purchase anywhere with it. You may as well use a butter knife for all it does. I'm a bit mad at HF because the ad says it's for cars but it's not: http://www.harborfreight.com/tire-be...eck-67403.html The reviews tell us that it is only for certain types of trucks and tractors with a "lock" bead (whatever that is). REVIEW QUOTE: It is meant to break the bead from lock rings on a loader tire I don't know what a "loader tire" is, nor what a "lock ring" is for such a tire, but I do (now) know emphatically that this swan-neck bead breaker bar is utterly useless for passenger car tires. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 18:53:06 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 20:07:38 -0500, advised: It's a pretty mediocre bead breaker - and even a good one often needs to be applied to several points around the tire to knock it down. The (cheap) breaker sometimes needs to be tied with a twisted rope to keep them against the rim.. Helps to have it adjusted properly too. When working with automotive size tires, makes sure the tire is warm (put it in the heated part of the house, if you are in a cold environment, for a while before trying to break the bead). Make sure you have removed the valve stem core. Put a little diluted liquid soap where the rim meets the tire. If possible, stand on the area of the tire where you are attempting to break the bead. This will add some additional force without exerting any effort. We use our HF bead breaker for tractor and other yard equipment tires, some of them are pretty large. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 20:07:38 -0500, advised:
If you want instructions, look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7yz9twasEU or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUas5LIY_ok I should be clear that I already know how to go through the motions. The problem is what to do when the bead won't break. In that first video above the guy used the same tool that I had: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7yz9twasEU He mounted the tire changer on 2x3s which was a different way of doing it, and he did a tougher tire than the rest of the videos used. He used a stronger-ply sidewall, and said that the bead was "really really difficult" to break off the wheel. He also bent his bead breaker bar like I did. So, the tool is really too weak for a formidable SUV tire. He said "car tires would be way easier" than his truck tires that he did. He found putting the tires on was easier than was breaking the bead of the truck (SUV) tires. Anyway, I'm pretty sure the tool is stressed with SUV tires, and that my technique is sound. I just have to find another way to break the SUV tires so I'll probably pick up a single-purpose bead breaker at HF this week. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 19:04:13 -0600, Dean Hoffman advised:
Have you looked on YouTube? Ya know, the old thing about a picture being worth one or ten thousand words? This video uses the same tool that I have: https://youtu.be/_J_2SD-snd0 And he explained a bit about how the bead breaker shovel bends like mine did. Unlike the other video, at least his beads popped off with a sound, so you know he was really breaking a bead. That guy also used a 3/8ths in bolt which was too long! He didn't use the washers that the previous guy did with the drop-in anchors. So it looks like everyone has the same problem that you need 2-2/4 inch bolts and not a quarter inch either way but none of them bother to mention that (so you have to know to look for it which means you have to already know about it to know to look for it). But, overall, the tire he had was a low profile tire which is totally different from a SUV high profile tire, so, for bead breaking the video was useless. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 20:07:38 -0500, advised:
If you want instructions, look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7yz9twasEU or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUas5LIY_ok Thanks for those links. Watching this video first, it's actually hilarious in one way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUas5LIY_ok He's using an entirely different model tool from HF (it has a completely different geometry than the one I have) and he's doing a brand new 14-inch passenger-car tire which even he said in the video is super easy. In addition, he welded stuff onto his tire changer (he didn't say exactly what he welded though) and his tire changer is totally different than mine in that he doesn't have those two weak arms that bent on mine. http://i.cubeupload.com/LqS6N4.jpg His has a steel tube (which will certainly be stronger). But the non-realistic part of his video was that he used a brand new tire! So all he did was press down like he was pressing his finger into butter, and the bead broke (in fact, the bead was already broken because there was absolutely no popping sound). He even stepped on the rest of the tire to get the rest of the bead, which means that he was just going through the motions. It's fine that he was just going through the motions, but I already knew all the motions. But he also bolted his HF tool to concrete (his bolt hole dimensions are wrong though since nothing larger than 3/8ths will fit in the pre-drilled holes of the tool legs). He used the same threaded anchors that I did, so that's nice to know. And, he didn't mention it, but you can see that he stacked a ****load of washers under the bolt head, which means he had the same problem that I have which is you need 2-3/4-inch long bolts, but you can only easily get 2-1/2 or 3-inch bolts (he probably used the 3-inch bolts). So, it was a useful video, but not the same model tire changer as I have, and, his test case was so easy that it simply showed what we already know which is you press down on the bar with the bead shovel in the bead. He does another tire at time 937 but it's just as easy but at least we "hear" the pop of the bead, which means this bead was actually seated: https://youtu.be/bUas5LIY_ok?t=937 The video is good for "instructions" for going through the motions, but it's not useful when there is a problem breaking the bead since the bead came off like it was buttered. The guy blows up a tire at time 1408, which is certainly not standard procedure! https://youtu.be/bUas5LIY_ok?t=1408 |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 19:14:35 +0000, Stormin' Norman advised:
We use our HF bead breaker for tractor and other yard equipment tires, some of them are pretty large. Which bead breaker do you use? Is it this one? http://i.cubeupload.com/ics54M.jpg |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight beadbreaker?
On 12/12/2016 5:45 PM, Frank Baron wrote:
.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-COATS-40-40-TIRE-CHANGER... at $60+/- at the moment...keep watching/looking and can eventually find a usable changer that will actually work. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 19:46:24 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 19:14:35 +0000, Stormin' Norman advised: We use our HF bead breaker for tractor and other yard equipment tires, some of them are pretty large. Which bead breaker do you use? Is it this one? http://i.cubeupload.com/ics54M.jpg Yes, except the base is painted orange, I assume it is the older version. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 18:44:04 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 19:04:13 -0600, Dean Hoffman advised: Have you looked on YouTube? Ya know, the old thing about a picture being worth one or ten thousand words? Of course I've looked on youtube. There were plenty of mounting videos, for example, but they mostly just showed you the end result, and none of the practical stuff that I learned here. Also, there are lots (and lots) of redneck methods for breaking the bead, and a few on the HF tool. The ones on the HF tool just showed the obvious, which is you press down and that's it. Some even ran into the same problem I ran into which is that the HF tool is made out of butter. http://i.cubeupload.com/LqS6N4.jpg I removed the bent section and will straighten it and try again: http://i.cubeupload.com/mdLDK0.jpg But it may be that I actually will need to buy this tool from HF: http://i.cubeupload.com/ics54M.jpg I also picked up some new tire valves which will be interesting to put in since I have never done it befo http://i.cubeupload.com/DwuIRx.jpg By the time you are done you will have spent as much as having all your tires professionally changed for the rest of your life (unless you are a teenager with a heavy foot) and you STILL won't be able to change yourtires ---- |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 15:56:13 -0500, wrote:
By the time you are done you will have spent as much as having all your tires professionally changed for the rest of your life (unless you are a teenager with a heavy foot) and you STILL won't be able to change yourtires ---- At least HF makes a bunch of money in this instance. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 18:53:06 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 20:07:38 -0500, advised: It's a pretty mediocre bead breaker - and even a good one often needs to be applied to several points around the tire to knock it down. The (cheap) breaker sometimes needs to be tied with a twisted rope to keep them against the rim.. Helps to have it adjusted properly too. I have to agree with you that it's a "mediocre" bead breaker because I bent the heck out of the breaker arm last night working on the one spare tire that I have (it's not my SUV - I'm helping a relative by doing her tires): http://i.cubeupload.com/LqS6N4.jpg I don't have welding equipment, but I should probably weld on stronger steel to make the arms more rigid: http://i.cubeupload.com/mdLDK0.jpg You are really going to need to change a lot of tires to pay for the equipment with the money saved by not having someone else do it, and I'll bet you ruin a few tires in the process. I had calculated about $200 for the tools which, at about $20 per tire, is about 10 tires. That's about two years payback time, assuming tires changed on two cars every two years plus a flat fix once every two years per car (which is about my rate). So, pretty much, I'm going through 10 tires on two cars every two years so two years from now, it will have paid for itself. Except for one thing. After spending $500 instead of the budgeted $200 you STILL won't be able to change your tires, and you will end up tearing the beads and gouging the expensive wiener-wagon rims before you figure that out If you are doing it yourself because you don't trust tire shops, "rots 'a ruck," Tire shops suck. 1. They don't remove BBS hubcaps with the tool (they just pry them off) 2. They don't remove all the old weights (they just put on more) 3. They don't line up the heavy (or high) spot (they just use more weight) 4. They don't pressurize the tires correctly (everyone gets the same psi) 5. They don't torque lug nuts/bolts correctly (ditto on egalitarianism) 6. I've had bent BMW rims (I think they did it but I can't prove that) Find a GOOD shop - they do exist. My brother's old shop tire machine doesn't even need the centers removed from your BBS wheels, and the mounting tools never touch the rim. Any hack that doesn't remove the weights BEFORE removing the tire should be shot. The "high spot" marks oftem make virtually no difference If you just take in the rims to have tires mounted, what pressure are they supposed to use? Or if you use a slightly different sized tire? YOU are responsible for testing the pressure and setting to your requirements. Anyone who doesn't torque the bolts properly should be shot. They are "hacks" not "technicians" You likely bent the rims hitting a curb or pothole - which requires more than just camber and toe to be checked on the alignment. Your problem is you are going to a cheapeassed schlock tire shop because you are too cheap to go to the dealership. (You call it the stealership) "If you want first quality oats you have to be willing to pay first quality prices. If you are willing to settle for oats that have been through the horse, they do come a little cheaper" If you have to ask "how much" for ANYTHING you have no business driving a Bimmer (or a Porsche, or an Audi or a Jag or a Range Rover or a - you get the picture??? |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 19:02:06 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 19:55:25 -0700, rbowman advised: I tried the bumper jack approach to bead breaking once. I jacked the '51 Chevy up just fine; the bead was not impressed. Just to let folks know what does *NOT* work, this black swan-neck bead breaker bar from Harbor Freight is utterly useless also. http://i.cubeupload.com/oiD34u.jpg You can't get any purchase anywhere with it. You may as well use a butter knife for all it does. I'm a bit mad at HF because the ad says it's for cars but it's not: http://www.harborfreight.com/tire-be...eck-67403.html The reviews tell us that it is only for certain types of trucks and tractors with a "lock" bead (whatever that is). REVIEW QUOTE: It is meant to break the bead from lock rings on a loader tire I don't know what a "loader tire" is, nor what a "lock ring" is for such a tire, but I do (now) know emphatically that this swan-neck bead breaker bar is utterly useless for passenger car tires. Your problems are 2, and only 2. You are CHEAP, and you don't have a clue how to use the tools. A cheap tool in the hands of a master can be made to work reasonably well. In the hands of an amateur, it will very seldom do the job the first time - much-less stand up long term. Much better to find an OLD manual tire changer made for professional use, and have the old codger that owned it and used it for 50 years show you how to use it. Don't second guess the guy because he did it for a living, and therefore, being a mechanic or technician, cannot be trusted. I can even see you going to a Hunter rep and buying a real tire changer and then not listening to him explain what options to buy and how to use it (if you weren't so cheap) Sorry - but I just don't see this going anywhere. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 19:40:43 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 19:04:13 -0600, Dean Hoffman advised: Have you looked on YouTube? Ya know, the old thing about a picture being worth one or ten thousand words? This video uses the same tool that I have: https://youtu.be/_J_2SD-snd0 And he explained a bit about how the bead breaker shovel bends like mine did. He's a bit of a hack too Unlike the other video, at least his beads popped off with a sound, so you know he was really breaking a bead. That guy also used a 3/8ths in bolt which was too long! He didn't use the washers that the previous guy did with the drop-in anchors. Like I said So it looks like everyone has the same problem that you need 2-2/4 inch bolts and not a quarter inch either way but none of them bother to mention that (so you have to know to look for it which means you have to already know about it to know to look for it). But, overall, the tire he had was a low profile tire which is totally different from a SUV high profile tire, so, for bead breaking the video was useless. The low profile tires are harder in my experience. And like he said the tire changer will scratch your expensive rims breaking the bead, fastening the rim to the changer, and removing and replacing the tire because it's all cheap rough steel - no plastic protectors, and no engineering behind it. It's JUNK - and in the hands of an inexperienced user or a hack, it can do a lot of damage to itself and the rims. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
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Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
If you are doing it yourself because you don't trust tire shops, "rots 'a ruck," Tire shops suck. 1. They don't remove BBS hubcaps with the tool (they just pry them off) 2. They don't remove all the old weights (they just put on more) 3. They don't line up the heavy (or high) spot (they just use more weight) 4. They don't pressurize the tires correctly (everyone gets the same psi) 5. They don't torque lug nuts/bolts correctly (ditto on egalitarianism) 6. I've had bent BMW rims (I think they did it but I can't prove that) Find a GOOD shop - they do exist. My brother's old shop tire machine doesn't even need the centers removed from your BBS wheels, and the mounting tools never touch the rim. Any hack that doesn't remove the weights BEFORE removing the tire should be shot. The "high spot" marks oftem make virtually no difference If you just take in the rims to have tires mounted, what pressure are they supposed to use? Or if you use a slightly different sized tire? YOU are responsible for testing the pressure and setting to your requirements. Anyone who doesn't torque the bolts properly should be shot. They are "hacks" not "technicians" You likely bent the rims hitting a curb or pothole - which requires more than just camber and toe to be checked on the alignment. Your problem is you are going to a cheapeassed schlock tire shop because you are too cheap to go to the dealership. (You call it the stealership) "If you want first quality oats you have to be willing to pay first quality prices. If you are willing to settle for oats that have been through the horse, they do come a little cheaper" If you have to ask "how much" for ANYTHING you have no business driving a Bimmer (or a Porsche, or an Audi or a Jag or a Range Rover or a - you get the picture??? + 1 .. but - Clare - I need to know - " expensive wiener-wagon rims " Are you besmirching your ancestors ? ! :-) Happy Christmas to all. John T. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
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Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 20:25:01 +0000, Stormin' Norman advised:
Which bead breaker do you use? Is it this one? http://i.cubeupload.com/ics54M.jpg Yes, except the base is painted orange, I assume it is the older version. Thanks for that information. Why does your experience totally clash with that of though? I suspect Clare has never actually changed a tire using these tools where you have? |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 15:56:13 -0500, advised:
By the time you are done you will have spent as much as having all your tires professionally changed for the rest of your life (unless you are a teenager with a heavy foot) and you STILL won't be able to change yourtires ---- What math do you use on your planet? 1. Pop your zip code into the Tire Rack Recommended Installer engine: http://www.tirerack.com/installer/In...?affiliate=HJ7 2. Call up the first five in the list 3. Tell us what you averaged I just priced out getting tires mounted and balanced and it's never less than $18 per tire where I live and as much as $38.50 at the first five of the tire rack recommended installers for my zip code.] At $20 per tire (which is a reasonable estimate and which was my initial assessment) it would take two years to get my money back on $200 worth of tools. That's assuming a new set of tires every two years for two cars, and one flat each for each car (which is pretty much what I average). My math is pretty simple, and it checks out, so, what math are you using that says the payback on $200 worth of tools is the rest of my life? Am I only going to live two more years? |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 19:40:44 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 20:07:38 -0500, advised: If you want instructions, look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7yz9twasEU or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUas5LIY_ok Thanks for those links. Watching this video first, it's actually hilarious in one way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUas5LIY_ok He's using an entirely different model tool from HF (it has a completely different geometry than the one I have) and he's doing a brand new 14-inch passenger-car tire which even he said in the video is super easy. It's the same piece of scrap you have but he modified it. It has the exact same bead breaker you have. Listen to what the man has to say - HE KNOWS HOW TO USE THE PIECE OF JUNK. He also told you and showed you exactly what he welded. In addition, he welded stuff onto his tire changer (he didn't say exactly what he welded though) and his tire changer is totally different than mine in that he doesn't have those two weak arms that bent on mine. It is the EXACT machine you have and he showed exactly what he did. All you can do is find fault with what he was showing you instead of listening and learning. http://i.cubeupload.com/LqS6N4.jpg His has a steel tube (which will certainly be stronger). He does NOT have a steel tube - it is EXACTLY what you have. But the non-realistic part of his video was that he used a brand new tire! So all he did was press down like he was pressing his finger into butter, and the bead broke (in fact, the bead was already broken because there was absolutely no popping sound). He even stepped on the rest of the tire to get the rest of the bead, which means that he was just going through the motions. If he had your tire it would have done almost exactly the same. I've chanked hundreds - likely thousands of tires - and what he showed was VERY representative of what you would find - particularly on alloy rims (his was steel) It's fine that he was just going through the motions, but I already knew all the motions. As long as you are convinced you already know it all, you will NEVER learn. But he also bolted his HF tool to concrete (his bolt hole dimensions are wrong though since nothing larger than 3/8ths will fit in the pre-drilled holes of the tool legs). So he's smarter than the average jackass and drilled the holes out to take a bigger bolt, and also welded the otherwise flimsy arms to the base of the changer pedestal, He's smarter than you - get used to it. He used the same threaded anchors that I did, so that's nice to know. And, he didn't mention it, but you can see that he stacked a ****load of washers under the bolt head, which means he had the same problem that I have which is you need 2-3/4-inch long bolts, but you can only easily get 2-1/2 or 3-inch bolts (he probably used the 3-inch bolts). So, it was a useful video, but not the same model tire changer as I have, and, his test case was so easy that it simply showed what we already know which is you press down on the bar with the bead shovel in the bead. He does another tire at time 937 but it's just as easy but at least we "hear" the pop of the bead, which means this bead was actually seated: https://youtu.be/bUas5LIY_ok?t=937 The video is good for "instructions" for going through the motions, but it's not useful when there is a problem breaking the bead since the bead came off like it was buttered. The guy blows up a tire at time 1408, which is certainly not standard procedure! What's not standard procedure about the way he blew up the tire at 14:08??? https://youtu.be/bUas5LIY_ok?t=1408 The way he did it at the end is a bit of a "redneck" way. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 19:40:44 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: look at this one too -- He knows what he's doing and has addressed a few of the shortcomings. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
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Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
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Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 22:00:38 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 20:25:01 +0000, Stormin' Norman advised: Which bead breaker do you use? Is it this one? http://i.cubeupload.com/ics54M.jpg Yes, except the base is painted orange, I assume it is the older version. Thanks for that information. Why does your experience totally clash with that of though? I suspect Clare has never actually changed a tire using these tools where you have? Attempting to pit one persons experience against another's is a good way to stir up trouble. I urge you to refrain from such questions. I live in a warm environment which ensures the tire is more pliable then when it is cold. When we dismount tires, we use soapy warm water and a lot of patience, perspiration and military "surplus" tire spoons after the bead is broken. We also drop the tire onto concrete from several feet high and we bounce it several times after we have removed the valve core. We don't do it often enough to justify owning one of the larger, pneumatic or hydraulic units. We also don't do this with car tires, I much prefer Costco or Discount Tire for the road vehicles. No scratching of wheels and they can dynamically balance the tires / wheels. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 22:41:50 +0000, Stormin' Norman advised:
I live in a warm environment which ensures the tire is more pliable then when it is cold. When we dismount tires, we use soapy warm water and a lot of patience, perspiration and military "surplus" tire spoons after the bead is broken. We also drop the tire onto concrete from several feet high and we bounce it several times after we have removed the valve core. Thanks for the advice to warm and bounce the tire. Someone else mentioned warming, so, since I only have the one spare wheel with me now (it's not my SUV) I have it inside the living room warming up. I will bounce it and try again, but I wasn't able to buy the bead breaker tool from HF today (I'll do it tomorrow). I am hoping to get the SUV to work on tomorrow night if I can have it in my garage for an hour to change the four other tires (I have to move the spare too so I'll be dismounting and mounting a total of five tires even though she only bought four). We don't do it often enough to justify owning one of the larger, pneumatic or hydraulic units. I agree with you. An air-operated unit is overkill. It's like having an alignment rack, which is overkill for home use. We also don't do this with car tires, I much prefer Costco or Discount Tire for the road vehicles. Costco only sells something like two brands, and they take forever to do the tires, but they do give you free stuff like nitrogen and rotations although the free rotation is worthless because you can rotate at home in far less time than it takes at Costco. No scratching of wheels and they can dynamically balance the tires / wheels. Did you see the wheels I'm working on? http://i.cubeupload.com/LqS6N4.jpg Scratching isn't a problem. |
Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 23:32:28 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote: On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 22:41:50 +0000, Stormin' Norman advised: I live in a warm environment which ensures the tire is more pliable then when it is cold. When we dismount tires, we use soapy warm water and a lot of patience, perspiration and military "surplus" tire spoons after the bead is broken. We also drop the tire onto concrete from several feet high and we bounce it several times after we have removed the valve core. Thanks for the advice to warm and bounce the tire. Someone else mentioned warming, so, since I only have the one spare wheel with me now (it's not my SUV) I have it inside the living room warming up. I will bounce it and try again, but I wasn't able to buy the bead breaker tool from HF today (I'll do it tomorrow). I am hoping to get the SUV to work on tomorrow night if I can have it in my garage for an hour to change the four other tires (I have to move the spare too so I'll be dismounting and mounting a total of five tires even though she only bought four). We don't do it often enough to justify owning one of the larger, pneumatic or hydraulic units. I agree with you. An air-operated unit is overkill. It's like having an alignment rack, which is overkill for home use. We also don't do this with car tires, I much prefer Costco or Discount Tire for the road vehicles. Costco only sells something like two brands, and they take forever to do the tires, but they do give you free stuff like nitrogen and rotations although the free rotation is worthless because you can rotate at home in far less time than it takes at Costco. No scratching of wheels and they can dynamically balance the tires / wheels. Did you see the wheels I'm working on? http://i.cubeupload.com/LqS6N4.jpg Scratching isn't a problem. I have taken tires and rims to Costco and asked them to dismount and mount other tires and they were happy to do it without me having purchased the tires from them. One time I gave the guy at the counter a case of St. Pauli Girl beer and they did it all for free...... |
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