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Default Question about breaking the bead using a harbor freight bead breaker?

It happens that Tekkie® formulated :
Frank Baron posted for all of us...


Like anyone, I've had issues with shipped goods, but, heck. A tire is a big
rubber round thing. It isn't gonna break in shipping. It's not gonna get
scratched. It's not gonna be the wrong size usually, or the wrong color


But the wire in the bead might get bent in shipping...


It could get bullet holes too if it travels through Chicago.

http://crime.chicagotribune.com/chicago/shootings/
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On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 05:53:16 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote:

On Thu, 15 Dec 2016 09:07:02 -0500, advised:

Again. You got something better than the specs?

I believe the scientifically done tire tests - nothing less than
double blind, with 3 or more testers on both sets of tires.


Hi Clare,

You can I both would have no problem choosing tires by the spec is we
actually had those tests in hand, but without those tests in your hand for
every tire (of the dozens you're looking at), how are you going to choose
between them?

Warranty is only a very small indicator of quality -in that if they
were really ****ty tires they could not afford to warrantee them.


We're not disagreeing.
I use warrantee only when everything else is equal.

Then, heck, if one guy has a 50K mile warranty and the other has a 75K mile
warranty, and everything else is equal, sure, I'll go with the longer
warranty. Why not?


Well, I can tell you with certainty that the tires will be basically
unusable long before I put 75000 miles on them!! That's 120,000km -
or 10 years of my average driving on either vehicle. After 6 years the
rubber has hardened to the point they should no longer be driven on
the road, in most cases.

But warranty plays no role when other factors are far more important.


Also "all tires sold in the US are safe" - - Nope. Remember Firestone
721s?? There were quite a few really dangerous tires sold in the USA.


C'mon. Let's not go off on witch hunts here.


It's no witch hunt. There are many cases of "unsafe" tires being sold
in the USA (and Canada)

I think you completely missed the point if you pick the Firestone or
Uniroyal debacles as an indication that tires sold in the US are NOT safe.

It's a fact that tires are safe no matter which ones you buy just as it's a
fact that the Tylenol you get from the drug store doesn't have cyanide in
it.

Sure, once in a while there is a disaster, but there is no buying habit you
can outline that is defensible in this case. What are you gonna do to
mitigate the chance of another Uniroyal/Firestone debacle?

The answer is nothing.
So it serves no purpose for you to bring in the Firestone/Uniroyal outlier.

You may as well say airline travel is unsafe the moment a single airline
crashes, so never fly because flying is unsafe.


No, using simple logic, airflight is still the safest transportation
in the world. Walking is more dangerous when deaths per passenger
(traveller) mile are compaered.

What does anyone have for choosing tires that is better than the specs?

REAL test data.


C'mon Clare. Let's be serious. I'm not a fool.
Your sophistic response works for most people on Usenet because most people
are fools.

But it doesn't work with me.
You justified absolutely nothing of what you said.
I justified everything.


Man, you sound just like Donald Trump!!!!
Trumped up responses.

I buy by the specs printed on the sidewall (and I explained them).

You said you buy tires using better criteria than I do.
Fine.

I ask you the criteria.
You say "real test data".

Fine. I'd love to have real test data for the dozen (or so) tires I look at
but my point was that nobody has this real test data (not consumers
anyway).

You say you have this real test data for the tires you buy.
Fine.
Where is it?

Specifically, where do we get those manufacture test specs for the tires in
question? ( Nexen NPriz AH5 P225/75R15 102S Pattern Code AH5 )

You do get to determine what you are willing to pay, and to decide
what constitutes VALUE for you


C'mon Clare. You don't get the object you want unless you pay the price
that someone else is willing to pay.
That is, YOU don't set the price.
The price is set by all the other people who want the same thing you want.

You think YOU set the price.
You don't.

You can disagree with me, but it's impossible for you to *set* the price of
what constitutes vale to you (if you want the object).

Sure, you can NOT buy the object.
But that just proves my point even more.

Take for example a typical California home in Palo Alto.
What's the price?
About 2 million bucks.
For 2000 square feet and a postage-stamp lawn.

Now, you come along, and you *want* a house in Palo Alto.
What are you willing to pay?

Oh, you're only willing to pay $500K?
Guess what?

You don't get that house.

If you don't want to understand what I just wrote, then that's fine.

But for you to blindly ignore thousands of years of basic economic theory
means that we will just have to disagree with each other.

Sure, you can decide it isn't worth 2 million bucks.
But then you don't get that house.

So, you *still* don't set the price of the house because *plenty* of other
people are willing to pay 2 million for that house that you're not willing
to pay 500K for. And they live in that house. While you don't.

Anyway, this is so basic that I can't believe we're discussing it.
Suffice to say you are welcome to disagree and I think that you missed a
few economics courses in college.


What I mean by that is that you don't pay the price that you are willing to
pay so much as you pay the price that everyone else is willing to pay.


Nope. If I'm not willing to pay the price, I don't buy. Totally my
choice.


You completely missed the entire point.

If you *wanted* the object, but if you're not willing to pay the price that
everyone else is willing to pay, *they* get the object, and you don't.

They set the price. Not you.
This is such a basic part of economic theory that I can't believe we're
even discussing it.

So, you're willing to disagree; but you have to come up with a tenable
argument where you actually *get* the object you want for the price you
want.

No, but you might buy it for $450 in 3 months when the next "fruit of
the day" is released. Being an "earlt adopter" is being a "pioneer" -
defined as the guy laying on his belly in the dust with an arrow in
his back - - - Also known as "bleeding edge"


C'mon Clare. You changed the goal posts. Sure, if you want an iPhone 1 (do
they even exist?) you can get it cheaper now than it was on the day it was
first sold - but the example I gave was a specific object at a specific
time.

It's basic economic theory that market timing is *part* of the product.


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Frank Baron posted for all of us...



On Thu, 15 Dec 2016 16:48:05 -0500, Tekkie? advised:

You get what you pay for.


Hi Tekkie,

I'm going to be nice, as per the suggestion from Clare.

To answer your question, I have solved *all* the problems where I
appreciate the helpful advice from everyone.

In particular, Clare and a few others were very helpful, as they actually
had the experience.

This question was never going to be answered by people who have never done
the job themselves with home equipment anyway.

You must have missed the summary (and the summary of the summary, and a few
summaries after that), so I'll just point you to the summary of the tire
bead problem so you can read it yourself, since you're interested in the
results:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!or...o/Xn6hZL2-CAAJ

You see, I'm an excellent Usenet poster who gives back to the team by
summarizing the thread in a post to the original so that others can find it
quickly and easily in the future.



Still stumped by the valve stem?


I call BS on you as I too have done what Clare has. I don't like your polite
crap. Be a man. You will also note I have posted several replies to you that
went unacknowledged. I still think you are a troll but am trying to work
with you. Clare has given you good advice and you ignore it with your
hypothetical musings. Clare has even apologized to the group for a minor mis
posting. Take your pompous attitude and learn. I thought he was going into
defib with some of your postings.

I am curious as to what is your profession?

What do you do that benefits the world around you?

--
Tekkie
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On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 16:09:50 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote:

On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 14:59:56 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote:

On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 09:58:11 +0000, Stormin' Norman advised:

That is for a tiny "MC" bottle. A medium size "B" bottle is $44.00.
Those prices are nuts. I understand the prices went through the roof
when the acetylene production plant in Texas exploded a couple of
years ago.


Thanks for the heads' up.
I've seen the tanks my friend has which are about up to my knee.

I'm guessing those are the MC tanks which that site shows are 20 bucks for
10 cubic feet, so that's roughly 2 bucks a cubic foot.
http://tinyurl.com/hwebznk


An MC tank is very small, about twice the size of your average propane
torch bottle. Plumber frequently use them for their Turbo Torches.

A "B" bottle might come up to the knee of a shorter person. It comes
up to about my mid shin.



How much acetylene is a cubic foot in terms of welding time?
Dunno.


All depends upon the size tip you are using.


Note that this price is just one that I got off the net.
It's probably double where I live due to expense and the fact that the
brick-and-mortar shops often charge more than online places.

So I'll assume it's forty bucks for that MC tank for me to get it filled
(or swapped out).

For my use, that's probably ok (acetylene lasts forever, doesn't it)?


Do what you wish. I have a lot of use for my torch, silver soldering,
brazing, welding, cutting etc. $10 to fill a gas grill size tank of
propane is a lot more economical then buying acetylene. Additionally,
acetylene is very dangerous for the uninitiated.

I saw the aftermath of a USMC aviation mechanic who opened the valve,
more than one turn, on a large, unregulated acetylene bottle. With
the gas coming out in such volume at such a high pressure, it created
either a static charge or the friction of the escaping gas produced
enough heat that it caused the gas to ignite and the bottle to
explode.


Acelylene is unstable at anything over about 6PSI, which is why it is
stored under pressure disolved in acetone..

The heat value of acetylene is a LOT higher than Propane.

Propane is OK for use in a cutting torch, but I'd hate to have to weld
with it. Also, The reason Propane ( and other alternative fuels ) are
not suitable is that when Acetylene is burning with Oxygen it creates
a cone of CO2 forming a shielding gas over the weld puddle. Propane
does not produce this shielding CO2. Even when cutting it makes a LOT
more slag - clean cuts are virtually impossible.

It killed the mechanic, rendered an F-4 a total loss and blew a large
hole in a blast resistant aircraft shelter. Acetylene is something to
be respected.

When you get down to it - ALL tools should be respected.


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On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 18:34:55 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote:

On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 18:26:17 +0000, Stormin' Norman advised:

Moving on to more productive discussion, what is the brand of the
welding rig itself, the torch and regulators?


All is Craftsman. About 30 or 40 years old.
Currently stored outside in the rain.

Yeah. I know. ... that's why it's free.

and extremely dangerous without having it checked out by a qualified
technician.
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On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 14:55:59 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:

posted for all of us...


One place I worked we had a "slip guage" that told us when we drove a
car into the shop if the alignment was apppreciably out - and that
test was done free of charge to every vehicle that came in the door.

Is that the one with the teeth in a trough in the floor? We had one of them
and customers would just shake their heads when we we wouldn't try to nick
them for unneeded services.

That's the gem

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On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 15:00:10 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:

posted for all of us...



And I've done it on tires that would flatten you if they dropped on
you, as well as standard sized automobile and light truck tires


Don't forget the split rims; could be killers. One of the firefighters I
know killed himself when he didn't do it correctly - in his day job, not ff.

Only a total fool will touch them without a cage or a few really
stout chains. I've worke on them p- as noted - and I've seen the
results of stupidity.
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On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 15:35:33 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Frank Baron"

PLONK!!!!

I'm getting close!!
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On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 16:30:48 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:

I don't like your polite
crap. Be a man.


Real men aren't polite?
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On Friday, December 16, 2016 at 4:22:51 PM UTC-6, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 16:30:48 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:

I don't like your polite
crap. Be a man.


Real men aren't polite?


Real men are civilized but know when it's time to turn into a savage.”Œ( à²*_à²*)”˜

[8~{} Uncle Real Monster
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On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 20:51:18 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote:

On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 15:08:11 -0500, Tekkie? advised:

Lube new Schrader valve prior to next step

f. Insert the new Schrader valve and stem assembly


Lube the tire beads prior to the next two steps.


Good point. The dish detergent helped wonderfully.

Proper "vegatable soap" tire lube does not allow the tire to slip on
the rim under accelleration or braking after it dries, unlike some
normal "dish soaps"
A proper bead lubricant like "RuGlyde" is most definitely recommended
..

Using the wrong soap increases the likelihood you will need to
re-balance the tire several times over it's lifespan.
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On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 16:30:48 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:

Frank Baron posted for all of us...



On Thu, 15 Dec 2016 16:48:05 -0500, Tekkie? advised:

You get what you pay for.


Hi Tekkie,

I'm going to be nice, as per the suggestion from Clare.

To answer your question, I have solved *all* the problems where I
appreciate the helpful advice from everyone.

In particular, Clare and a few others were very helpful, as they actually
had the experience.

This question was never going to be answered by people who have never done
the job themselves with home equipment anyway.

You must have missed the summary (and the summary of the summary, and a few
summaries after that), so I'll just point you to the summary of the tire
bead problem so you can read it yourself, since you're interested in the
results:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!or...o/Xn6hZL2-CAAJ

You see, I'm an excellent Usenet poster who gives back to the team by
summarizing the thread in a post to the original so that others can find it
quickly and easily in the future.



Still stumped by the valve stem?


I call BS on you as I too have done what Clare has. I don't like your polite
crap. Be a man. You will also note I have posted several replies to you that
went unacknowledged. I still think you are a troll but am trying to work
with you. Clare has given you good advice and you ignore it with your
hypothetical musings. Clare has even apologized to the group for a minor mis
posting. Take your pompous attitude and learn. I thought he was going into
defib with some of your postings.

I am curious as to what is your profession?

What do you do that benefits the world around you?

I was tempted to ask the same - sounds like a doctor or an engineer
of some sort
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On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 22:19:32 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote:

On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 16:34:07 -0500, wrote:



The heat value of acetylene is a LOT higher than Propane.

Propane is OK for use in a cutting torch, but I'd hate to have to weld
with it. Also, The reason Propane ( and other alternative fuels ) are
not suitable is that when Acetylene is burning with Oxygen it creates
a cone of CO2 forming a shielding gas over the weld puddle. Propane
does not produce this shielding CO2. Even when cutting it makes a LOT
more slag - clean cuts are virtually impossible.


I have read and heard similar things but I have produced beautiful
welded, brazed and silver soldered joints with Oxy Propane. Must be
one of those things that isn't supposed to work, but does.

Brazing and silver soldering uses a flux to take the place of that
sheild gas. Propane or MAPP are fine for soldering and brazing.
TERRIBLE foir welding. Kinda like Mig welding with no gas and not
using flux core wire.

It killed the mechanic, rendered an F-4 a total loss and blew a large
hole in a blast resistant aircraft shelter. Acetylene is something to
be respected.


When you get down to it - ALL tools should be respected.


OK, good advice, kind of like:

"Treat every gun as if it's loaded and every woman as if she isn't."

That one is mine, you may use it but please provide proper
attribution. ;-)




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On Sat, 17 Dec 2016 00:49:05 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 22:19:32 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote:

On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 16:34:07 -0500,
wrote:



The heat value of acetylene is a LOT higher than Propane.

Propane is OK for use in a cutting torch, but I'd hate to have to weld
with it. Also, The reason Propane ( and other alternative fuels ) are
not suitable is that when Acetylene is burning with Oxygen it creates
a cone of CO2 forming a shielding gas over the weld puddle. Propane
does not produce this shielding CO2. Even when cutting it makes a LOT
more slag - clean cuts are virtually impossible.


I have read and heard similar things but I have produced beautiful
welded, brazed and silver soldered joints with Oxy Propane. Must be
one of those things that isn't supposed to work, but does.

Brazing and silver soldering uses a flux to take the place of that
sheild gas. Propane or MAPP are fine for soldering and brazing.
TERRIBLE foir welding. Kinda like Mig welding with no gas and not
using flux core wire.


You can keep telling me it doesn't work well for welding, but I have
used oxy-propane and produced beautiful welds.



It killed the mechanic, rendered an F-4 a total loss and blew a large
hole in a blast resistant aircraft shelter. Acetylene is something to
be respected.


When you get down to it - ALL tools should be respected.


OK, good advice, kind of like:

"Treat every gun as if it's loaded and every woman as if she isn't."

That one is mine, you may use it but please provide proper
attribution. ;-)

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On Sat, 17 Dec 2016 14:07:08 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote:

On Sat, 17 Dec 2016 00:49:05 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 22:19:32 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote:

On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 16:34:07 -0500,
wrote:



The heat value of acetylene is a LOT higher than Propane.

Propane is OK for use in a cutting torch, but I'd hate to have to weld
with it. Also, The reason Propane ( and other alternative fuels ) are
not suitable is that when Acetylene is burning with Oxygen it creates
a cone of CO2 forming a shielding gas over the weld puddle. Propane
does not produce this shielding CO2. Even when cutting it makes a LOT
more slag - clean cuts are virtually impossible.

I have read and heard similar things but I have produced beautiful
welded, brazed and silver soldered joints with Oxy Propane. Must be
one of those things that isn't supposed to work, but does.

Brazing and silver soldering uses a flux to take the place of that
sheild gas. Propane or MAPP are fine for soldering and brazing.
TERRIBLE foir welding. Kinda like Mig welding with no gas and not
using flux core wire.


You can keep telling me it doesn't work well for welding, but I have
used oxy-propane and produced beautiful welds.


They may LOOK good, but I'm not sure I'd trust them - see quote from
Hobart site below.


It killed the mechanic, rendered an F-4 a total loss and blew a large
hole in a blast resistant aircraft shelter. Acetylene is something to
be respected.

When you get down to it - ALL tools should be respected.

OK, good advice, kind of like:

"Treat every gun as if it's loaded and every woman as if she isn't."

That one is mine, you may use it but please provide proper
attribution. ;-)

From Hobartwelders.com site:
IT, makes no difference what the person at the LWS, Fleabay WS, or
your neighborhood "Legend in their own Mind" tells you, There is no
possible way to get a good weld (ferrous) with any thing other than
ACETYLENE!

The only reason you can not weld with any fuel gas other then
"ACETYLENE" is you can not achieve a "TRUE" neutral flame. Which means
you are adding contamination with slightly oxidizing or carburizing
flames.

The oxidizing flame, removes carbon form the weld pool changing the
metallurgy of the weld. It converts the carbon to carbon dioxide.

The carburizing flame, adds carbon to the weld pool and will change
the metallurgy of the weld pool adversely.

Welding means only, joining ferrous metals!

You can braze,solder,silver braze(miss called silver soldering), heat
for bending etc and cutting.

As to hoses:
Use only Grade T hose with MAPP,PROPANE PROPYLENE fuel gases.

Use GRADE R,RM,OR T hose with Acetylene.

The make up of the hoses are different and react to the make up of
the gases differently.

The biggest differences in the tips is the number, sizes and
arrangement of the holes in it. Propane/natural gas tips have smaller
and more of them.

The other difference is with an acetylene/oxy flame the hottest part
is the inner cone of the flame.

The propane/oxy flame is the outer skirt,(outside skirt of the flame)

Other than that it is only a matter of ease of getting the gases. to
refill when the cylinders are empty, or what you have learned on, or
have used in the past.

So other than taking a little longer to hit the temperature, If you
aren't going to gas weld ferrous materials. It shouldn't be a problem.

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posted for all of us...



On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 16:30:48 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:

Frank Baron posted for all of us...



On Thu, 15 Dec 2016 16:48:05 -0500, Tekkie? advised:

You get what you pay for.

Hi Tekkie,

I'm going to be nice, as per the suggestion from Clare.

To answer your question, I have solved *all* the problems where I
appreciate the helpful advice from everyone.

In particular, Clare and a few others were very helpful, as they actually
had the experience.

This question was never going to be answered by people who have never done
the job themselves with home equipment anyway.

You must have missed the summary (and the summary of the summary, and a few
summaries after that), so I'll just point you to the summary of the tire
bead problem so you can read it yourself, since you're interested in the
results:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!or...o/Xn6hZL2-CAAJ

You see, I'm an excellent Usenet poster who gives back to the team by
summarizing the thread in a post to the original so that others can find it
quickly and easily in the future.



Still stumped by the valve stem?


I call BS on you as I too have done what Clare has. I don't like your polite
crap. Be a man. You will also note I have posted several replies to you that
went unacknowledged. I still think you are a troll but am trying to work
with you. Clare has given you good advice and you ignore it with your
hypothetical musings. Clare has even apologized to the group for a minor mis
posting. Take your pompous attitude and learn. I thought he was going into
defib with some of your postings.

I am curious as to what is your profession?

What do you do that benefits the world around you?

I was tempted to ask the same - sounds like a doctor or an engineer
of some sort


Notice I have not received a response.

--
Tekkie
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On Mon, 19 Dec 2016 16:04:52 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:

posted for all of us...



On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 15:35:33 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Frank Baron"

PLONK!!!!

I'm getting close!!


Let me know when you pull the pin. I will too. I was worried about you, I
thought he hit a nerve... He's circulating the drain. Maybe when he finds
all the rust when he used Dawn...

Pulled the pin on Saturday?
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On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 23:45:12 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron advised:

I have a question about mounting and balancing tires at home that didn't
come up when I was researching this problem. If you have never mounted or
balanced your own passenger-car tires, then you won't know the answers
(most likely) but if you have, you'll know because you must have solved
this problem.

I have the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh Manual Tire Changer HF item #62317
which is mounted in concrete so that it is stable.

That tire changer comes with a "bead breaker" but the bead is just not
breaking when I used it today!
http://i.cubeupload.com/f8FCTC.jpg

I also bought a couple of Harbor Freight item #61603 Pittsburgh 24 in.
General Purpose Tire Irons.
http://i.cubeupload.com/7q7Tq0.jpg

The problem is that the harbor freight tire changer bead breaker just seems
to slip off when following the instructions.
http://i.cubeupload.com/7CdvVu.jpg

I would be glad to use the the Harbor Freight item #67403 Tire Bead Breaker
with Swan Neck:
http://i.cubeupload.com/Qcg2YR.jpg

But it doesn't come with instructions.
Have you used these goose-neck bead breakers on passenger tires?

Which way does the goose-neck go?
a. It can't fit under the rim with the finger pointing up, and,
b. It can't fit under the bead with the finger pointing down.

So how did you use this bead breaker anyway?


I finally broke down and bought the HF Pittsburgh Bead Breaker, Harbor
Freight item 92961. ( http://i.cubeupload.com/Lb3Fof.jpg )

I used that harbor freight bead breaker to break the beads on four
difficult steel-rim wheels with Optimo P235/75R15 108T thick-sidewall tires
seemingly glued on.
http://cubeupload.com/im/uFwoAk.jpg

After using it successfully (not without a few curses), I conclude the HF
standalone bead breaker sucks but it sucks differently than the bead
breaker attachment on the Harbor Freight tire changing tool.
http://i.cubeupload.com/rQiNkr.jpg

The HF tire changing tool bead breaker is fine for the three passenger
tires I've done now, but it's far too weak (puny would be more apropos) for
the strong sidewall SUV tires.
http://i.cubeupload.com/sjfJWR.jpg

Luckily (as Clare kindly warned me), all of what sucks in both tools can be
"fixed" if you know ahead of time what to modify (as Clare has kindly shown
us):
http://i.cubeupload.com/GqExGq.jpg

What sucks about the tire-changing tool bead-breaker attachment is:
a. The bead-breaker arms are too weak (and bend like a pretzel)
b. The clevis pins (thanks Clare) are far too sloppy (replace with bolts)
c. The bead breaker arc is far too small (about 1/2 to 1/4 of what you need
d. The tire iron twists out of your hands (use a vise grip to prevent that)
e. The tire iron is too soft so it bends when used as a lever (use pipe)
f. The base *must* be bolted down for SUV tires which require turning force
HF Pittsburgh Bead Breaker, Harbor Freight item #92961
http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html

What sucks about the standalone bead breaker tool is:
a. The base is far too short for big tires
b. The base has no attachment holes for securing to concrete or pallets
c. The lever action isn't all that powerful (but it's strong enough)
HF Pittsburgh Manual Tire Changer, Harbor Freight item #62317
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ger-62317.html

Here is the first method that I used as an expediency to temporarily
"extend" the base of the HF bead breaking tool (it was a steel shelf from a
Costco shelf rack):
http://cubeupload.com/im/nADolx.jpg

Here is the second method that I used to extend the base (it's just a board
of wood that I had lying around):
http://cubeupload.com/im/uZf7Id.jpg

I changed multiple car tires easily with both tools, but SUV 108T P235/75
tires stressed both tools to the max - where - without the emergency
modifications above - I don't think you can do the job (I couldn't).
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On Sat, 17 Dec 2016 00:44:17 -0500, advised:

Proper "vegatable soap" tire lube does not allow the tire to slip on
the rim under accelleration or braking after it dries, unlike some
normal "dish soaps"
A proper bead lubricant like "RuGlyde" is most definitely recommended
.
Using the wrong soap increases the likelihood you will need to
re-balance the tire several times over it's lifespan.


Thank you for your advice not to use the wrong soap, as the tire may slip
on the rim, which would making all balancing off.

Here is the soap I used:
http://i.cubeupload.com/DJpG8X.jpg

I did wash it off afterward (as I had also painted the rims black).

Interestingly, when I gave the SUV back to the owner, she didn't even
notice that the four rims went from silver to black!

Because of time constraints (it's not my car, it's that of a relative), I
wasn't able to test drive at speed (no highway nearby and I only had the
vehicle from about 10pm to dawn). So I told her to tell me if it vibrates
on the highway.

I accidentally left the PSI at my test pressure of 45psi (instead of 32psi)
but I don't think she'll even notice but I ask you if it matters?

Does it matter?

She drives like a little old lady, about 20 highway miles a day, and about
30 miles a day of mountain twisting single-lane but very steep (9% grade)
roads.
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On Mon, 19 Dec 2016 16:11:13 -0500, Tekkie? advised:

Notice I have not received a response.


I just saw these. Sorry about that.

Thanks for all the advice because I did six tires so far, where the
60-series car tires are so easy as not to count.

I have one more tire to do, but the nail is kind of near the edge, so, I'm
going to have to figure out WHY they say not to patch near the edge.

Is it that the plug patch won't hold due to flexing?
Or that the fear is that the belts are damaged at a critical spot?


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On Sat, 17 Dec 2016 00:45:53 -0500, advised:

I was tempted to ask the same - sounds like a doctor or an engineer
of some sort


I'm a court officer.
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On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 16:30:48 -0500, Tekkie? advised:

I am curious as to what is your profession?

What do you do that benefits the world around you?


I just saw this.
I'm an officer of the court.
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wrote:

Sorry - but I just don't see this going anywhere.


All the tires are mounted and balanced.
http://i.cubeupload.com/qyytFT.jpg

I learned a *lot*, so thanks for all your advice.

I'm gonna patch some tires today, for example but they will be so easy that
they don't count (since they are normal passenger car tires at 60 series
alloy wheels).
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On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 16:18:44 -0500, advised:

Where are those super secret manufacturers' test results for YOUR tires?

https://www.auto123.com/en/auto-part...n?artid=149217

I'm not gonna shoot down your reference but I will say that it isn't a tire
manufacturer test result.

It's nothing more than a shootout between 3 tires, which was the best you
can find (which was my whole point).

It's not your fault (nor mine) that there just isn't any reliable
information about tires when you want to compare brand A to brand B to
brand C.

There just isn't.
The best you can do is find a shootout, and, if you're (extremely) lucky,
they'll have tested exactly the brands you're comparing on the vehicle
you're comparing on driven the way you drive.

The liklihood of that is nil, by the way, nor nearly so, which was my
point. So I *knew* you wouldn't come up with those super secret
manufacturer's tests, and that's OK because nobody can.

Not even you.
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On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 16:35:15 -0500, advised:

and extremely dangerous without having it checked out by a qualified
technician.


People who wear pink panties never get hurt by chainsaws, ladders, or
running with scissors.


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On Tue, 20 Dec 2016 19:33:06 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote:




I accidentally left the PSI at my test pressure of 45psi (instead of 32psi)
but I don't think she'll even notice but I ask you if it matters?


WTF? You were complaining about shops "not doing the job right" and
let her leave with over-inflated tires?
Shame on you.
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On Tue, 20 Dec 2016 21:34:36 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Dec 2016 19:33:06 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
wrote:




I accidentally left the PSI at my test pressure of 45psi (instead of 32psi)
but I don't think she'll even notice but I ask you if it matters?


WTF? You were complaining about shops "not doing the job right" and
let her leave with over-inflated tires?
Shame on you.

Just KNEW he'd screw SOMETHING up. It was "in the stars".
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On Wed, 21 Dec 2016 08:20:28 -0800 (PST), trader_4 advised:

I'm left wondering why you over inflated the tires to begin with.


That's a good question.
Remember, I'm not an expert (and I never claimed to be one).

Also remember that I am asking for advice, so, I will tell you what I did,
whereas someone else will make believe they did everything perfectly (which
is how all DIYs are written, from a 20/20 hindsight perspective).

The reason I inflated them to 45 was that I had to inflate them to about 60
PSI to ensure the bead was set, and then I dropped the inflation down and
checked the bead with soap and water for bubbles indicating a leak.

As a *further* leak indicator, I set them all to 45psi to see if they
leaked. Since I wasn't going to have the tires for a long time, I was
planning on checking the pressure after a few hours while I had the vehicle
overnight.

My plan was to drop the pressure to 35 when the owner came back for the
vehicle. The owner came back early to pick up the vehicle, so, I just plain
forgot to do that in the fuss, so, I never checked if they were leaking
down from the 45psi.

In the meantime, I did five more tires, as an experiment and for practice,
where I patched each one of them with a home-made plug-patch.

Here's the inside look at the plug:
http://i.cubeupload.com/EJF4y3.jpg
And here's the inside look at the patch over that plug:
http://i.cubeupload.com/OmMamJ.jpg

Of the five experiments, one tire still won't go on the rim, even though we
had a matched set of tires and rims, which went on just fine!
http://i.cubeupload.com/nJNap0.jpg

For the life of us, we can't figure out *how* to get this last tire on the
rim, even though its sister tire and rim went on just fine. (We even bent
the tire iron tip, using all the force that we did.)
http://i.cubeupload.com/OoAABt.jpg
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On Tuesday, December 13, 2016 at 12:40:57 PM UTC-6, Frank Baron wrote:

Last night, I destroyed the tire changer bead-breaking arm:
http://i.cubeupload.com/LqS6N4.jpg

It bent like it was made out of butter.

I may have to head back to Harbor Freight for this one:
http://i.cubeupload.com/ics54M.jpg



I have both of them. They are both weak. As with any Chinese tool
you usually need to strengthen or otherwise improve what you get.
So the general rule is to use them gently with caution. However
it is probably cheaper to improve them than to buy the vastly more
expensive industrial/professional-grade tools. Youtube can be
helpful as people will show you what they did to destroy or improve
various cheap tools.
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On Wed, 21 Dec 2016 10:44:14 -0800 (PST), Davej advised:

I have both of them. They are both weak. As with any Chinese tool
you usually need to strengthen or otherwise improve what you get.
So the general rule is to use them gently with caution. However
it is probably cheaper to improve them than to buy the vastly more
expensive industrial/professional-grade tools. Youtube can be
helpful as people will show you what they did to destroy or improve
various cheap tools.


Thank you Davej for that advice which I agree with:
a. The HF bead-breaking tools suck, but,
b. Fixing the HF tools is cheaper than buying a better tool

For example, on the purpose-built HF bead breaker, *all* the wheels I did
(15 and 16 inches in diameter) were too big for the base. You'd think the
manufacturer would know how big a tire is. Luckily, adding this board
"extended" the base sufficiently to do 15 and 15 inch wheels:
http://i.cubeupload.com/9axQTD.jpg

What sucks about the tire-changing tool bead-breaker attachment is:
a. The bead-breaker arms are too weak (and bend like a pretzel)
b. The clevis pins (thanks Clare) are far too sloppy (replace with bolts)
c. The bead breaker arc is far too small (about 1/2 to 1/4 of what you need
d. The tire iron twists out of your hands (use a vise grip to prevent that)
e. The tire iron is too soft so it bends when used as a lever (use pipe)
f. The base *must* be bolted down for SUV tires which require turning force
g. The red tire iron flat tip bends like rubber on the tougher tires!
HF Pittsburgh Bead Breaker, Harbor Freight item #92961
http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html

What sucks about the standalone bead breaker tool is:
a. The base is far too short for big tires
b. The base has no attachment holes for securing to concrete or pallets
c. The lever action isn't all that powerful (but it's strong enough)
HF Pittsburgh Manual Tire Changer, Harbor Freight item #62317
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ger-62317.html

However, both can be made to work:
http://i.cubeupload.com/ngg3X3.jpg

But both bent horribly in the wheels and tires that I did.
http://i.cubeupload.com/JvoTto.jpg

For example, I just removed & patched-plugged these five 15-inch 75-series
SUV tires and 16-inch 55-series sedan tires last night:
http://i.cubeupload.com/qD9rZv.jpg

The tire-changer bead breaker isn't useful for tough tires, but it worked
on the easier tires. The problem with the tire changer is that the toughest
tire of the 5 defeated it, and *still* isn't on the wheel, even after
bending the tire iron (which is made of too-soft metal for hard tires):
http://i.cubeupload.com/W3NoBk.jpg

I can't for the life of me figure out why a sister tire went on the same
size rim, but this one still won't go on no matter what I try.

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On Tuesday, December 13, 2016 at 2:46:30 PM UTC-5, Frank Baron wrote:
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 19:14:35 +0000, Stormin' Norman advised:

We use our HF bead breaker for tractor and other yard equipment tires,
some of them are pretty large.


Which bead breaker do you use?

Is it this one?
http://i.cubeupload.com/ics54M.jpg


Dude did you ever get your tire changed? I was actually trying to buy this harbor freight tire changer today but they were sold out so I just got 2 tire irons from them. I broke the bead with my harbor freight floor jack, some lumber and a tow strap. I know you said earlier you weren't trying to do stuff a "rednecK" way but I found it to work great for breaking a bead.
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On Sat, 18 Jul 2020 16:06:35 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, December 13, 2016 at 2:46:30 PM UTC-5, Frank Baron wrote:
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 19:14:35 +0000, Stormin' Norman advised:

We use our HF bead breaker for tractor and other yard equipment tires,
some of them are pretty large.


Which bead breaker do you use?

Is it this one?
http://i.cubeupload.com/ics54M.jpg

Dude did you ever get your tire changed? I was actually trying to buy this harbor freight tire changer today but they were sold out so I just got 2 tire irons from them. I broke the bead with my harbor freight floor jack, some lumber and a tow strap. I know you said earlier you weren't trying to do stuff a "rednecK" way but I found it to work great for breaking a bead.


For the few tires I change in my life, I will just give the tire guy
at the end of the street $10. Sometimes they have trouble with those
little tires and they have a shop full of professional equipment. For
commodity things like trailer tires and golf carts, I buy the tires
mounted, for a couple bucks more than a tire and a stem.
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