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kenmore 90 series washer - lid switch removal secrets (for changing it)?
ok, guys, our just under three yr old kenmore 'series 90' washer
stopped running, abouut 10 days back. I figured 'uh-huh, clock in timer dead-replace timer', bought new timer (order it/$100@sears), installed it, now the washer will fill and agitate, but NOT spin or drain, even if manually advanced click by click and tried, even if manually adavanced even to another entire 'style' of wash cyle. ....dread setting in now... read an old thread here, got '2 votes for bad lid switch' in that thread, checked it, found lid switch actually electrically 'good', but plastic bracket that holds it in place is broken (making it unfunctional, because 'lid spike' couldn't push switch far enough down to actuate it/switch was too loose). washer is a kenmore series 90, model 110.20922991, serial # CL 0715366, type 111. that lid switch is somewhat 'graspable' but not removeable from above the tub. are there two leads to it? is there a 'plug-in' connector on the switch itself, or are the pigtails of the switch hard-wired TO the switch? are the other ends of the lid switch the two leads 'by themselves' at the middle rear left of the timer? the _other_ two (much bigger) timer connectors are what I call "massive complexie" models, each of them having approx 12 to 14 leads per connector, in 2 rows per, as I recall... I need to 'extract' that lid switch to either repair the plastic 'base bracket' to it, or replace it entirely...so, do I have to pull the back off the control panel again? anything else? are the switch wires 'clipped in place' mid-way in their run from the switch TO the main controller? do the switch leads (as they run toward the back of the machine/dashboard area) gotta be 'fished thru' a tight spot in there, or thru a rubber grommet, or something? thanks for tips and clues :-) BTW, right now I'm "running a low-price special" on your choice: either a BRAND new main control timer, complete with box and paperwork/receipt, or a "known good" just under three yr old timer...for the same machine (& possibly others) |
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kenmore 90 series washer - lid switch removal secrets (for changing it)?
bill yohler wrote:
ok, guys, our just under three yr old kenmore 'series 90' washer stopped running, abouut 10 days back. I figured 'uh-huh, clock in timer dead-replace timer', bought new timer (order it/$100@sears), installed it, now the washer will fill and agitate, but NOT spin or drain, even if manually advanced click by click and tried, even if manually adavanced even to another entire 'style' of wash cyle. ...dread setting in now... read an old thread here, got '2 votes for bad lid switch' in that thread, checked it, found lid switch actually electrically 'good', but plastic bracket that holds it in place is broken (making it unfunctional, because 'lid spike' couldn't push switch far enough down to actuate it/switch was too loose). washer is a kenmore series 90, model 110.20922991, serial # CL 0715366, type 111. that lid switch is somewhat 'graspable' but not removeable from above the tub. are there two leads to it? is there a 'plug-in' connector on the switch itself, or are the pigtails of the switch hard-wired TO the switch? are the other ends of the lid switch the two leads 'by themselves' at the middle rear left of the timer? the _other_ two (much bigger) timer connectors are what I call "massive complexie" models, each of them having approx 12 to 14 leads per connector, in 2 rows per, as I recall... I need to 'extract' that lid switch to either repair the plastic 'base bracket' to it, or replace it entirely...so, do I have to pull the back off the control panel again? anything else? are the switch wires 'clipped in place' mid-way in their run from the switch TO the main controller? do the switch leads (as they run toward the back of the machine/dashboard area) gotta be 'fished thru' a tight spot in there, or thru a rubber grommet, or something? thanks for tips and clues :-) BTW, right now I'm "running a low-price special" on your choice: either a BRAND new main control timer, complete with box and paperwork/receipt, or a "known good" just under three yr old timer...for the same machine (& possibly others) on my sears washer i just take the two screws out the console(back top part) and rock it back and then you see two metal clips on the top lid back area and i use needle nose pliers to grab the gold colored cips and remove them and then the whole top and front comes off and move it to the side and then you can get at the lid switch... but first you unplug it after you remove the console, there is a plug in there that comes out so you can take off the whole cabinet in one piece....on mine the switch seemed to not work.. so i messed with it by pressing on it with a screw driver and it would engage... like the prick that goes down from the lid was not long enough... well i tried it and was even gonna make a longer prick to get in there... i then got a new lid switch and found out that my old one was in pretty bad shape and did not even realize it..... with the one one the prick(barb) did its job great...... the new lid switch comes with some pretty long leads(wires ) on it.. and thy just plug in.. no pig tailing needed...... |
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