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Maytag washer won't spin
Just replaced a cracked hose from my Maytag tub to pump, now my washer
won't spin. Wash mode works fine, but on spin cycle washer just sits idle. Does pump need to be primed, or do I have a new problem? Thanks tkarig |
Maytag washer won't spin
Just a guess it could be the door switch.
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Maytag washer won't spin
(tkarig) wrote in message om...
Just replaced a cracked hose from my Maytag tub to pump, now my washer won't spin. Wash mode works fine, but on spin cycle washer just sits idle. Does pump need to be primed, or do I have a new problem? Thanks tkarig Hi, Maytag has made a few different washers....model#? http://www.applianceaid.com/model.html Some model# helps. now my washer won't spin. Wash mode works fine, but on spin cycle washer just sits idle The spin was ok before the hose change?....totally dead no with no noises?....maybe a wire got knocked/bumped off....lid switch got bumped if the washer was tilted?.... Does pump need to be primed Nope. jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com/ |
Maytag washer won't spin
OK, my first follow up didn't work...
First of all my Maytag washing machine's model number is A710 Series 1. Second, the door switch appears to be working unless my reasoning is incorrect. I assume that if the wash cycle works OK, and that if I open the door during the wash cycle and the washer stops then the door switch is working. As for a loose wire, again I'm assuming that if the motor is working for the wash cycle then the wiring is OK for the spin cycle. Obviously the motor is getting current for the wash cycle, but this doesn't mean the contact for the spin cycle is being closed. This raises another question based on my observations. If I stop the wash cycle and switch to a spin cycle, after a momentary delay I've noticed a spark at what I assume is the contact switch on top of the washer motor. Not sure if this is a contact switch, but it looks like one. This doesn't happen every time. Same result regardless, no spin cycle. As for noises, all I've observed is a slight hum from the timer when I switch to spin cycle... other than the pop from the spark that I mentioned above. Thanks, I appreciate all suggestions... Cheers, tkarig (jeff) wrote in message . com... (tkarig) wrote in message om... Just replaced a cracked hose from my Maytag tub to pump, now my washer won't spin. Wash mode works fine, but on spin cycle washer just sits idle. Does pump need to be primed, or do I have a new problem? Thanks tkarig Hi, Maytag has made a few different washers....model#? http://www.applianceaid.com/model.html Some model# helps. now my washer won't spin. Wash mode works fine, but on spin cycle washer just sits idle The spin was ok before the hose change?....totally dead no with no noises?....maybe a wire got knocked/bumped off....lid switch got bumped if the washer was tilted?.... Does pump need to be primed Nope. jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com/ |
Maytag washer won't spin
OK, my first follow up didn't work...
First of all my Maytag washing machine's model number is A710 Series 1. Second, the door switch appears to be working unless my reasoning is incorrect. I assume that if the wash cycle works OK, and that if I open the door during the wash cycle and the washer stops then the door switch is working. As for a loose wire, again I'm assuming that if the motor is working for the wash cycle then the wiring is OK for the spin cycle. Obviously the motor is getting current for the wash cycle, but this doesn't mean the contact for the spin cycle is being closed. This raises another question based on my observations. If I stop the wash cycle and switch to a spin cycle, after a momentary delay I've noticed a spark at what I assume is the contact switch on top of the washer motor. Not sure if this is a contact switch, but it looks like one. This doesn't happen every time. Same result regardless, no spin cycle. As for noises, all I've observed is a slight hum from the timer when I switch to spin cycle... other than the pop from the spark that I mentioned above. Thanks, I appreciate all suggestions... Cheers, tkarig (jeff) wrote in message . com... (tkarig) wrote in message om... Just replaced a cracked hose from my Maytag tub to pump, now my washer won't spin. Wash mode works fine, but on spin cycle washer just sits idle. Does pump need to be primed, or do I have a new problem? Thanks tkarig Hi, Maytag has made a few different washers....model#? http://www.applianceaid.com/model.html Some model# helps. now my washer won't spin. Wash mode works fine, but on spin cycle washer just sits idle The spin was ok before the hose change?....totally dead no with no noises?....maybe a wire got knocked/bumped off....lid switch got bumped if the washer was tilted?.... Does pump need to be primed Nope. jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com/ |
Maytag washer won't spin
(tkarig) wrote in message om...
Hi, First of all my Maytag washing machine's model number is A710 Series 1. Second, the door switch appears to be working unless my reasoning is incorrect. I assume that if the wash cycle works OK, and that if I open the door during the wash cycle and the washer stops then the door switch is working. If the washer goes on and off when opening the lid during the agitation mode yes the lid switch should be ok. As for a loose wire, again I'm assuming that if the motor is working for the wash cycle then the wiring is OK for the spin cycle. The motor runs one direction for agitation and reverses and goes in the other direction for spin. Obviously the motor is getting current for the wash cycle, but this doesn't mean the contact for the spin cycle is being closed. Correct. Make sure a selection is made on the consol, some of those push buttons can get flush giving problems. This raises another question based on my observations. If I stop the wash cycle and switch to a spin cycle, after a momentary delay I've noticed a spark at what I assume is the contact switch on top of the washer motor. Not sure if this is a contact switch, but it looks like one. This doesn't happen every time. Same result regardless, no spin cycle. The motor has a start switch built on top of the motor. The motor can usually be ran/tested seperetly to see if it will operate or not.... http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/n...motorwash1.JPG Bad motor, no power from the timer to the motor in the spin mode, both are trouble makers or one damaged the other one :( As for noises, all I've observed is a slight hum from the timer when I switch to spin cycle... other than the pop from the spark that I mentioned above. jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com/ |
Maytag washer won't spin
Sorry for the multiple posts, I'm not used to having to wait several
hours to see a responce posted so I retried. Thanks again for the response... As for testing the motor, should I remove it from the washer circuit and test with my own power source? Do I need to remove the load (ie. the belt connecting the motor to the transmission? What is the supply voltage? 120V AC... DC? Thanks again, tkarig (jeff) wrote in message . com... (tkarig) wrote in message om... Hi, First of all my Maytag washing machine's model number is A710 Series 1. Second, the door switch appears to be working unless my reasoning is incorrect. I assume that if the wash cycle works OK, and that if I open the door during the wash cycle and the washer stops then the door switch is working. If the washer goes on and off when opening the lid during the agitation mode yes the lid switch should be ok. As for a loose wire, again I'm assuming that if the motor is working for the wash cycle then the wiring is OK for the spin cycle. The motor runs one direction for agitation and reverses and goes in the other direction for spin. Obviously the motor is getting current for the wash cycle, but this doesn't mean the contact for the spin cycle is being closed. Correct. Make sure a selection is made on the consol, some of those push buttons can get flush giving problems. This raises another question based on my observations. If I stop the wash cycle and switch to a spin cycle, after a momentary delay I've noticed a spark at what I assume is the contact switch on top of the washer motor. Not sure if this is a contact switch, but it looks like one. This doesn't happen every time. Same result regardless, no spin cycle. The motor has a start switch built on top of the motor. The motor can usually be ran/tested seperetly to see if it will operate or not.... http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/n...motorwash1.JPG Bad motor, no power from the timer to the motor in the spin mode, both are trouble makers or one damaged the other one :( As for noises, all I've observed is a slight hum from the timer when I switch to spin cycle... other than the pop from the spark that I mentioned above. jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com/ |
Maytag washer won't spin
(tkarig) wrote in message . com...
Hi, Sorry for the multiple posts, I'm not used to having to wait several hours to see a responce posted so I retried. Thanks again for the response... As for testing the motor, should I remove it from the washer circuit and test with my own power source? Yes. Do I need to remove the load (ie. the belt connecting the motor to the transmission? Either way, I usually leave the motor in place, leave the belts on, remove the washers power, mark where the motor wires went to ( usually colour coded ) and try a test cord and plug into wall outlet to check the motor as a good place to start. What is the supply voltage? 120V AC... DC? 120 volts AC. jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com/ |
Quote:
I had a problem with my Maytag LAT8600. The fill and agitate cycles were fine; however, the drum would not spin during the drain / rinse cycle. The machine also made a horrendous sound, and smelled like smoke. The smoke turned out to be the belts slipping. I replaced the belts, and it worked fine for about a month, then the same symptoms developed. It turns out the glide rails that the motor is mounted on were gummed up. I found the motor shifts slightly to provide drive to the drum during the drain / rinse cylces, and the gummed up rails prevented the motor from smoothly gliding into its required position. Older Maytags have round rollers on these rails and the round rolls may develop a flat spot. Mine had square rolls. 19 years of use, however, caused these rubber rolls to deteriorate and \'gum up\' the rails. There is a roller replacement kit available (I spent $12 for it). Remove the motor from the machine, then remove from the motor the plate that the rails are mounted on. The rolls simply snap off. Clean the rails and apply grease. I reassembled the rail plate to the motor, and tried a test wash cycle with the front cover off. As soon as the drain / rinse cylce initiated, the motor moved markedly and effortlessly better than before. My 19 year old washer is now good as new! And all I had to buy were belts and a rail guide repair kit! |
Dan:
I'm surprised the motor not sliding easily on those square glides would cause it not to spin at all. My three top loading Maytag washers use a "motor reversing relay" to reverse the polarity of the start winding or the motor so that the motor turns in one direction during the wash and rinse cycles and in the opposite direction during the two spin cycles. If the problem persists, I would check the motor reversing relay. It's located at the top of the machine just behind the console. If you get no spin after removing the tub cover from the outer basket for any reason, the most probable cause for the problem is that the tub cover was re-installed too low, and the top of the spin tub is rubbing against that top cover. Since the spin tub doesn't turn during the wash or rinse cycles, you don't see any problem until you go into the spin cycle where the tub is supposed to spin; and doesn't. You need to ensure there's a good 1/2 inch gap between the top of the spin tub and the underside of the outer tub cover. |
I appreciate the response. While troubleshooting, I noticed the motor itself would reverse direction; the noise was caused by slipping belts because there wasn't enough tension to drive the drum.
I am not an appliance repairman, the troubleshooting technique I used was process of elimination. Ultimately, I noticed by manually moving the drive motor toward the front of the machine during the rinse cycle, the belts now had enough tension to provide drive to the drum. Not much movement was required; perhaps 1/4 to 1/3 inch. I removed the motor from the washer and assessed how smoothly it glided along the rails. Initially, I thought it was adequate so as not to cause a problem. The counterman at an appliance parts store suggested the rail glide kit. After cleaning the rails and installing the new rollers, there was a world of difference in how smoothly the motor assembly moved. Reinstalling the assembly and observing it during the test wash cycle provided ample visual confirmation that a 'hung up' glide action was the likely culprit. It's been over a month now, and I haven't had the slightest indication of any problems. Thanks again for your advice; I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the machine is working! |
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