|
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer
hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. Does this sound correct? I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? Thanks, Keith |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. Does this sound correct? I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? Thanks, Keith This is Turtle. First here, If the wires [ like the whole length is melting ] is melted. You have these things wrong with it. You have too big of a breaker to your condenser unit or have to reset the breaker every hour or so, The wire kit he put on it is too small, and You have a shorted out compressor somewhat. If everything is installed correctly. You can't melt the wires. Now secondly here. If the end only that tie on to the compressor are melting about 1 to 3 inches back up the wire from the compressor. You have rusted or defective terminal on your compressor and not letting the spades connect correctly. I see this a lot on older equipment and you need a screw on clamp wire kit. It will have a screw on clamp to tie on to each terminal of the compressor. You buy them in sets and they will stop the burning of the terminal off like you have. Now you have only about 3 to 6 burns off before you burn the terminal off the compressor and then you will buy a new compressor because you will have nothing to put the clamp on wire kit to hold the wire on it. Now Have the breaker / wire sized for the condenser and put a you a clamp on wire kit on it and forget about it. TURTLE --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.580 / Virus Database: 367 - Release Date: 2/7/2004 |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
Dear Tony,
I've been posting to home repair for a couple years. I've read Turtle's posts for several years, and he's been a real wealth of information. He's solved problems for myself, and many others. I'm not quite so sure about you, though. However, it is very possible that I'm mistaken. Lets see if maybe I'm mistaken. How about you answer a couple questions for me. I'm a rather new heating and AC tech, so here's a great chance for me to learn. 1) You say that each of the three compressor terminals represents its own winding. I know of two windings, but you say there are three. What are the names of the three windings, and what do they each do? 2) What are the names of the electrical terminals on a typical compressor? What does each terminal do? 3) In terms of temperature, what happens when a terminal is corroded, and trying to carry current? And in terms of the electrical flow, what happens when a terminal is corroded? 4) What is the electrical current path through a compressor? For example, which terminal is hot, and which is neutral? I will likely be working on condensing units this summer, and perhaps some of your answers will help me to be a better technician. -- Christopher A. Young Jesus: The Reason for the Season www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. Each of the three wires on your compressor represents it's own respective winding in the compressor. Each, when excessive current draw is present, indicate to a competent (dare I say that word here), technician the correct path to follow with respect to troubleshooting. So in order to even begin to remotely guess at the problem one would need the information specific to which wire is carring excessive current. Even though they all may indicate excessive current, simply due to the proximity of one to the other, there is one that is the actual carring the excessive current. With that being said, the first thing a service tech would do is use an Amprobe to determine the actual draw in each conductor, |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Dear Tony, I've been posting to home repair for a couple years. I've read Turtle's posts for several years, and he's been a real wealth of information. He's solved problems for myself, and many others. I'm not quite so sure about you, though. However, it is very possible that I'm mistaken. Lets see if maybe I'm mistaken. How about you answer a couple questions for me. I'm a rather new heating and AC tech, so here's a great chance for me to learn. You are a hack, nothing but a halfassed locksmith that claims to be a tech.... 1) You say that each of the three compressor terminals represents its own winding. I know of two windings, but you say there are three. What are the names of the three windings, and what do they each do? If you dont know, you are over your head already. 2) What are the names of the electrical terminals on a typical compressor? What does each terminal do? It sits there and sings dixie every once in a while.. 3) In terms of temperature, what happens when a terminal is corroded, and trying to carry current? And in terms of the electrical flow, what happens when a terminal is corroded? Ok...you can stop with the jokes now...Mr hvac tech.. 4) What is the electrical current path through a compressor? For example, which terminal is hot, and which is neutral? There ISNT a neutral in a compressor on a home central system moron. I will likely be working on condensing units this summer, and perhaps some of your answers will help me to be a better technician. No...4 years of tech school might. -- Christopher A. Young Jesus: The Reason for the Season www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. Each of the three wires on your compressor represents it's own respective winding in the compressor. Each, when excessive current draw is present, indicate to a competent (dare I say that word here), technician the correct path to follow with respect to troubleshooting. So in order to even begin to remotely guess at the problem one would need the information specific to which wire is carring excessive current. Even though they all may indicate excessive current, simply due to the proximity of one to the other, there is one that is the actual carring the excessive current. With that being said, the first thing a service tech would do is use an Amprobe to determine the actual draw in each conductor, |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"TURTLE" wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. Does this sound correct? I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? Thanks, Keith This is Turtle. First here, If the wires [ like the whole length is melting ] is melted. You have these things wrong with it. You have too big of a breaker to your condenser unit or have to reset the breaker every hour or so, The wire kit he put on it is too small, and You have a shorted out compressor somewhat. If everything is installed correctly. You can't melt the wires. There is no such thing as a shorted out compressor, somewhat. It's either shorted out or it is not. Keith the correct answer to your question, or at least as correct as any observation can be using the information available and considering this is as I always say the internet. Each of the three wires on your compressor represents it's own respective winding in the compressor. Each, when excessive current draw is present, indicate to a competent (dare I say that word here), technician the correct path to follow with respect to troubleshooting. So in order to even begin to remotely guess at the problem one would need the information specific to which wire is carring excessive current. Even though they all may indicate excessive current, simply due to the proximity of one to the other, there is one that is the actual carring the excessive current. With that being said, the first thing a service tech would do is use an Amprobe to determine the actual draw in each conductor, I further suspect that your friends assesment is incorrect, if what he indicated to you were true, you would get zero run time out of the compressor, it would quickly overheat and cut out on an embedded thermal overload-quickly, not a few days, few weeks or few months. There would also be other indicative attributes that you have not mentioned.Since from what I read the most educated observation that can be concluded is that the problem is associated with the run winding, assuming the capacitor that your are referring to is in fact the run capacitor and not the start capacitor. There are a multitude of factors that can contribute to issues with the run winding in the compressor. To begin with the run cap itself can be defective, has anyone tested or replaced it? A dirty condenser coil will increase the current draw on both the run and common windings in the compressor, has the coil been cleaned thorughly since the issues originally occured. For the same reason that a dirty coil can cause it, so to can a condenser fan that is not performing to design requirements, if enough heat is not being rejected at the condenser because of dirt or a bad or faulty fan it will be indicated in the compressor current draw. Oversizing wires, if that is in fact what the latter contractor did, is not only bad practice and stupid it is also dangerous. The wiring within the equipment is the size (AWG), that it is for a reason. And finally, even though it would be premature, provided the equipment is properly maintained, the fault may in fact be a defective compressor, it certainly would not be unheard of. I would contact a competent service company that uses meters to determine cause. Now secondly here. If the end only that tie on to the compressor are melting about 1 to 3 inches back up the wire from the compressor. You have rusted or defective terminal on your compressor and not letting the spades connect correctly. I see this a lot on older equipment and you need a screw on clamp wire kit. It will have a screw on clamp to tie on to each terminal of the compressor. You buy them in sets and they will stop the burning of the terminal off like you have. Now you have only about 3 to 6 burns off before you burn the terminal off the compressor and then you will buy a new compressor because you will have nothing to put the clamp on wire kit to hold the wire on it. Now Have the breaker / wire sized for the condenser and put a you a clamp on wire kit on it and forget about it. TURTLE --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.580 / Virus Database: 367 - Release Date: 2/7/2004 |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. obviously...no. You have not given the model number or serial number to the unit. Depending on the model and serial, you may have a couple of items, and if you will get that and either post it, or send it this way, we can pull up the unit, and tell you what is the most likely problem. Does this sound correct? Nope...not always. I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? See the reply above. Once I know what model and run line of unit you have, then its a simple matter of pulling it up on cd and badda bing...there you go. The reason I need that, is that some of those had issues, that looked one way, and were another. Thanks, Keith |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
The unit is a York Model H2DAQ42SQ6A. The Serial Number is ELBM396211.
Here are the links to some photos showing the burned wires. I thought the burned wires were connected to the capacitor but they are not. See the photos for a better explanation. http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1833.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1834.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1835.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1836.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1837.jpg Thanks for your help. Keith "CBhvac" stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehva c.com wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. obviously...no. You have not given the model number or serial number to the unit. Depending on the model and serial, you may have a couple of items, and if you will get that and either post it, or send it this way, we can pull up the unit, and tell you what is the most likely problem. Does this sound correct? Nope...not always. I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? See the reply above. Once I know what model and run line of unit you have, then its a simple matter of pulling it up on cd and badda bing...there you go. The reason I need that, is that some of those had issues, that looked one way, and were another. Thanks, Keith |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. "TURTLE" wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. Does this sound correct? I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? Thanks, Keith This is Turtle. First here, If the wires [ like the whole length is melting ] is melted. You have these things wrong with it. You have too big of a breaker to your condenser unit or have to reset the breaker every hour or so, The wire kit he put on it is too small, and You have a shorted out compressor somewhat. If everything is installed correctly. You can't melt the wires. There is no such thing as a shorted out compressor, somewhat. It's either shorted out or it is not. This is Turtle. Hummmmmm , You must not have checked too many compressor lately have you. The test to check for a shorted or internal short from one pole to the other is to use a OHM meter and see if you have a path to gound first and then read each of the terminal to the other to see if you have the correct ohm's throught each. You read from R to S and get the ohm reading and then read from R to C and S to C and add the two together and you should get the ohm reading you got by reading R to S. If they don't match you have one winding touching the other some where in side the motor it'self. They can still run with a bleed over. Now for a simple explained condition of this is when you hear a tech say That compressor is just high amping too much or just pulling too many amps. This is what he is telling you here. A short out compressor does not have to be to ground and can be a short from one winding to the other and when I say somewhat. This is what I'm speaking of. There is a reply below here too. Keith the correct answer to your question, or at least as correct as any observation can be using the information available and considering this is as I always say the internet. Each of the three wires on your compressor represents it's own respective winding in the compressor. Each, when excessive current draw is present, indicate to a competent (dare I say that word here), technician the correct path to follow with respect to troubleshooting. So in order to even begin to remotely guess at the problem one would need the information specific to which wire is carring excessive current. Even though they all may indicate excessive current, simply due to the proximity of one to the other, there is one that is the actual carring the excessive current. With that being said, the first thing a service tech would do is use an Amprobe to determine the actual draw in each conductor, I further suspect that your friends assesment is incorrect, if what he indicated to you were true, you would get zero run time out of the compressor, it would quickly overheat and cut out on an embedded thermal overload-quickly, not a few days, few weeks or few months. There would also be other indicative attributes that you have not mentioned.Since from what I read the most educated observation that can be concluded is that the problem is associated with the run winding, assuming the capacitor that your are referring to is in fact the run capacitor and not the start capacitor. There are a multitude of factors that can contribute to issues with the run winding in the compressor. To begin with the run cap itself can be defective, has anyone tested or replaced it? You are saying here that the problem may lie with the run winding because the run capasitor or maybe the start capasitor maybe defective. I maybe catching or reading you wrong here by you saying the run capasitor or the start capasitor is in the run winding circuit in some way. I can't remember here , is the run capasitor in the run winding ? Clear this up for me. A dirty condenser coil will increase the current draw on both the run and common windings in the compressor, Your saying the amps will go up on the Run winding and the Common winding. I have never heard of a common winding on single phase compressors in my 40 something years in the business. They have a Common winding on 3 phase stuff but not on single phase stuff. Clear this up for me. has the coil been cleaned thorughly since the issues originally occured. For the same reason that a dirty coil can cause it, so to can a condenser fan that is not performing to design requirements, if enough heat is not being rejected at the condenser because of dirt or a bad or faulty fan it will be indicated in the compressor current draw. If the condenser fan motor is too slow / wrong blade / wrong R.P.M. / or just not moving enough air throught the condenser and causing the compressor to over amp. You will see a 90 to 100 psi suction and a 400 to 500 psi head pressure on the freon system. Then you say the amp will go up to enough to burn the wires off the compressor. If the amperage goes above the rated limit of the compressor more than 5 minutes. The compressor will cut out on high temp or high amps. If the amperage goes up enough to melt the wires to the compressor the service breaker or the internal overload will trip and cut it off. I just can't see the amperage staying above 60 to 90 amps for very long at all with out something cutting it off. One other thing here. If the amperage goes above the rating limit of the compressor more than 5 minutes it will turn off for 2 to 4 hour while it cools off. Clear this up for me. Oversizing wires, if that is in fact what the latter contractor did, is not only bad practice and stupid it is also dangerous. The wiring within the equipment is the size (AWG), that it is for a reason. You say by using a larger compressor wire kit is Stupid and is also Dangerous. You also said the wire to the compressor is designed to be a exact size [AWG] and you should not go up on it. I just don't see any danger in upping the wire size kit to the compressor unless your using the wires as a fuse and will burn off at a high amp rate. I alway just put a breaker on the whole condenser and use it and not the compressor wires as a fuse link. Clear this up for me. And finally, even though it would be premature, provided the equipment is properly maintained, the fault may in fact be a defective compressor, it certainly would not be unheard of. I would contact a competent service company that uses meters to determine cause. Now this I agree with finally. TURTLE --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.583 / Virus Database: 369 - Release Date: 2/10/2004 |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. I will simply answer your question by replying to the first part, since you don't know the answer to that question, I am not inclined to accept as fact that you are or have taken training in anything other than ignorance any idiot with a copy of Goodhart-Wilcox Modern HVAC or the mental capacity to use a search engine can locate the answers to those questions. The reply I gave to the question was accurate.....period. And if you did in fact take training at some community college or whatever mail order course you subscribed to, I would seek recompense from then......without delay. This is Turtle. I wouldn't either if i didn't know how to. TURTLE --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.583 / Virus Database: 369 - Release Date: 2/10/2004 |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
I have not taken any measurements on the unit, neither did any of the
technicians who worked on it. One tech said that he would be glad to keep charging me $100 for each visit to replace the wires. Otherwise, I should buy a new unit. I will do that if I have to but not sure I need a new unit to fix the problem. I bought the house 4 years ago and the unit was about 5 years old when I bought the house. I don't know that is has ever been flushed. Neither tech suggested that to me. Keith "Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. What is the amp draw at that wire? When was the last time the condenser was flushed? "Keith Reding" wrote in message .net... The unit is a York Model H2DAQ42SQ6A. The Serial Number is ELBM396211. Here are the links to some photos showing the burned wires. I thought the burned wires were connected to the capacitor but they are not. See the photos for a better explanation. http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1833.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1834.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1835.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1836.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1837.jpg Thanks for your help. Keith "CBhvac" stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehva c.com wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. obviously...no. You have not given the model number or serial number to the unit. Depending on the model and serial, you may have a couple of items, and if you will get that and either post it, or send it this way, we can pull up the unit, and tell you what is the most likely problem. Does this sound correct? Nope...not always. I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? See the reply above. Once I know what model and run line of unit you have, then its a simple matter of pulling it up on cd and badda bing...there you go. The reason I need that, is that some of those had issues, that looked one way, and were another. Thanks, Keith |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
Tony, you are dumber than a stump. On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 12:04:04 -0800, "Tony Berlin" wrote: It's obviously not a dead short numb nuts or the damn thing wouldn't provide performance at all, if it's burning or heating insulation on the wires then it's running at excessive current which would be checked with an AMMETER, I certainly do not require either meter selection or use tutorials from someone who cannot even correctly read a frikkin' post. What exactly, Mr. Turtle do you believe in all those years of amassing this experience that you seem so proud of that the alpha designation of C-S-R mean when applied to a compressor? "TURTLE" wrote in message ... "Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. "TURTLE" wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. Does this sound correct? I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? Thanks, Keith This is Turtle. First here, If the wires [ like the whole length is melting ] is melted. You have these things wrong with it. You have too big of a breaker to your condenser unit or have to reset the breaker every hour or so, The wire kit he put on it is too small, and You have a shorted out compressor somewhat. If everything is installed correctly. You can't melt the wires. There is no such thing as a shorted out compressor, somewhat. It's either shorted out or it is not. This is Turtle. Hummmmmm , You must not have checked too many compressor lately have you. The test to check for a shorted or internal short from one pole to the other is to use a OHM meter and see if you have a path to gound first and then read each of the terminal to the other to see if you have the correct ohm's throught each. You read from R to S and get the ohm reading and then read from R to C and S to C and add the two together and you should get the ohm reading you got by reading R to S. If they don't match you have one winding touching the other some where in side the motor it'self. They can still run with a bleed over. Now for a simple explained condition of this is when you hear a tech say That compressor is just high amping too much or just pulling too many amps. This is what he is telling you here. A short out compressor does not have to be to ground and can be a short from one winding to the other and when I say somewhat. This is what I'm speaking of. There is a reply below here too. Keith the correct answer to your question, or at least as correct as any observation can be using the information available and considering this is as I always say the internet. Each of the three wires on your compressor represents it's own respective winding in the compressor. Each, when excessive current draw is present, indicate to a competent (dare I say that word here), technician the correct path to follow with respect to troubleshooting. So in order to even begin to remotely guess at the problem one would need the information specific to which wire is carring excessive current. Even though they all may indicate excessive current, simply due to the proximity of one to the other, there is one that is the actual carring the excessive current. With that being said, the first thing a service tech would do is use an Amprobe to determine the actual draw in each conductor, I further suspect that your friends assesment is incorrect, if what he indicated to you were true, you would get zero run time out of the compressor, it would quickly overheat and cut out on an embedded thermal overload-quickly, not a few days, few weeks or few months. There would also be other indicative attributes that you have not mentioned.Since from what I read the most educated observation that can be concluded is that the problem is associated with the run winding, assuming the capacitor that your are referring to is in fact the run capacitor and not the start capacitor. There are a multitude of factors that can contribute to issues with the run winding in the compressor. To begin with the run cap itself can be defective, has anyone tested or replaced it? You are saying here that the problem may lie with the run winding because the run capasitor or maybe the start capasitor maybe defective. I maybe catching or reading you wrong here by you saying the run capasitor or the start capasitor is in the run winding circuit in some way. I can't remember here , is the run capasitor in the run winding ? Clear this up for me. A dirty condenser coil will increase the current draw on both the run and common windings in the compressor, Your saying the amps will go up on the Run winding and the Common winding. I have never heard of a common winding on single phase compressors in my 40 something years in the business. They have a Common winding on 3 phase stuff but not on single phase stuff. Clear this up for me. has the coil been cleaned thorughly since the issues originally occured. For the same reason that a dirty coil can cause it, so to can a condenser fan that is not performing to design requirements, if enough heat is not being rejected at the condenser because of dirt or a bad or faulty fan it will be indicated in the compressor current draw. If the condenser fan motor is too slow / wrong blade / wrong R.P.M. / or just not moving enough air throught the condenser and causing the compressor to over amp. You will see a 90 to 100 psi suction and a 400 to 500 psi head pressure on the freon system. Then you say the amp will go up to enough to burn the wires off the compressor. If the amperage goes above the rated limit of the compressor more than 5 minutes. The compressor will cut out on high temp or high amps. If the amperage goes up enough to melt the wires to the compressor the service breaker or the internal overload will trip and cut it off. I just can't see the amperage staying above 60 to 90 amps for very long at all with out something cutting it off. One other thing here. If the amperage goes above the rating limit of the compressor more than 5 minutes it will turn off for 2 to 4 hour while it cools off. Clear this up for me. Oversizing wires, if that is in fact what the latter contractor did, is not only bad practice and stupid it is also dangerous. The wiring within the equipment is the size (AWG), that it is for a reason. You say by using a larger compressor wire kit is Stupid and is also Dangerous. You also said the wire to the compressor is designed to be a exact size [AWG] and you should not go up on it. I just don't see any danger in upping the wire size kit to the compressor unless your using the wires as a fuse and will burn off at a high amp rate. I alway just put a breaker on the whole condenser and use it and not the compressor wires as a fuse link. Clear this up for me. And finally, even though it would be premature, provided the equipment is properly maintained, the fault may in fact be a defective compressor, it certainly would not be unheard of. I would contact a competent service company that uses meters to determine cause. Now this I agree with finally. TURTLE --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.583 / Virus Database: 369 - Release Date: 2/10/2004 |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. It's obviously not a dead short numb nuts or the damn thing wouldn't provide performance at all, if it's burning or heating insulation on the wires then it's running at excessive current which would be checked with an AMMETER, I certainly do not require either meter selection or use tutorials from someone who cannot even correctly read a frikkin' post. What exactly, Mr. Turtle do you believe in all those years of amassing this experience that you seem so proud of that the alpha designation of C-S-R mean when applied to a compressor? This is Turtle. OH My GOD , You give me a hard one here. Look Son i don't have all day to explain to you the wire design of compressors but will shorted it to this. If you call a start winding a common winding , you say too big of wire on a compressor is dangerous, you say the capasitor is in the run winding circuit, you don't know what a bleed circuit is inside a compressor is or shorted winding & still run, and you say a condenser motor running too slow can burn the wires off a compressor. I will tell you one thing. I have some Green Tech working for me that would get a laugh out of your replys. If you want to clear up your reply and the question i ask you , do so. Please do , I would be interested in hearing them. Now when a poster starts asking question in the place where there should be a answer. I take it he / she does not know the answer and just side stepping the question ask of them by changing the subject by asking a question. Now until you answer my question , i will take it that you are a wantabe hvac Tech in the making. Now if you would like to ask any question about hvac or Refrigeration. Ask away and I don't give Bull**** answers like you do. TURTLE --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.583 / Virus Database: 369 - Release Date: 2/10/2004 |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Keith Reding" wrote in message .net... The unit is a York Model H2DAQ42SQ6A. The Serial Number is ELBM396211. Here are the links to some photos showing the burned wires. I thought the burned wires were connected to the capacitor but they are not. See the photos for a better explanation. http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1833.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1834.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1835.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1836.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1837.jpg Thanks for your help. Keith This is Turtle. You can stop right here for i'm looking at the effect of a loose connection wire burn out. I see them all the time when the connection of the wire is not tight and it will just burn off. Replace the contractors and run new wire to the compressor to the contactor and you will never hear from it again , but tighten the connection real good and don't use the male spades if all possible , also. TURTLE --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.583 / Virus Database: 369 - Release Date: 2/10/2004 |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Keith Reding" wrote in message .net... I have not taken any measurements on the unit, neither did any of the technicians who worked on it. One tech said that he would be glad to keep charging me $100 for each visit to replace the wires. Otherwise, I should buy a new unit. I will do that if I have to but not sure I need a new unit to fix the problem. I bought the house 4 years ago and the unit was about 5 years old when I bought the house. I don't know that is has ever been flushed. Neither tech suggested that to me. Keith This is Turtle. If the Tech / service company can't tighten up the connection enough to keep them from burning off. Two thing is taking place here. 1) He is wanting to sell you a new condener by leaving the connection loose and let them burn off. 2) The tech just does not know how to tighten up the connection correctly. Run their ass off before the mess something up here and you may really have to buy a condenser. TURTLE --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.583 / Virus Database: 369 - Release Date: 2/10/2004 |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
You really are impressed with yourself. Perhaps because no one else is.
RB Tony Berlin wrote: I will simply answer your question by replying to the first part, since you don't know the answer to that question, I am not inclined to accept as fact that you are or have taken training in anything other than ignorance any idiot with a copy of Goodhart-Wilcox Modern HVAC or the mental capacity to use a search engine can locate the answers to those questions. The reply I gave to the question was accurate.....period. And if you did in fact take training at some community college or whatever mail order course you subscribed to, I would seek recompense from then......without delay. "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Dear Tony, I've been posting to home repair for a couple years. I've read Turtle's posts for several years, and he's been a real wealth of information. He's solved problems for myself, and many others. I'm not quite so sure about you, though. However, it is very possible that I'm mistaken. Lets see if maybe I'm mistaken. How about you answer a couple questions for me. I'm a rather new heating and AC tech, so here's a great chance for me to learn. 1) You say that each of the three compressor terminals represents its own winding. I know of two windings, but you say there are three. What are the names of the three windings, and what do they each do? 2) What are the names of the electrical terminals on a typical compressor? What does each terminal do? 3) In terms of temperature, what happens when a terminal is corroded, and trying to carry current? And in terms of the electrical flow, what happens when a terminal is corroded? 4) What is the electrical current path through a compressor? For example, which terminal is hot, and which is neutral? I will likely be working on condensing units this summer, and perhaps some of your answers will help me to be a better technician. -- Christopher A. Young Jesus: The Reason for the Season www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Tony Berlin" wrote in message t... Each of the three wires on your compressor represents it's own respective winding in the compressor. Each, when excessive current draw is present, indicate to a competent (dare I say that word here), technician the correct path to follow with respect to troubleshooting. So in order to even begin to remotely guess at the problem one would need the information specific to which wire is carring excessive current. Even though they all may indicate excessive current, simply due to the proximity of one to the other, there is one that is the actual carring the excessive current. With that being said, the first thing a service tech would do is use an Amprobe to determine the actual draw in each conductor, |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
I will simply answer your question by replying to the first part, since you
don't know the answer to that question, I am not inclined to accept as fact that you are or have taken training in anything other than ignorance any idiot with a copy of Goodhart-Wilcox Modern HVAC or the mental capacity to use a search engine can locate the answers to those questions. The reply I gave to the question was accurate.....period. And if you did in fact take training at some community college or whatever mail order course you subscribed to, I would seek recompense from then......without delay. "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Dear Tony, I've been posting to home repair for a couple years. I've read Turtle's posts for several years, and he's been a real wealth of information. He's solved problems for myself, and many others. I'm not quite so sure about you, though. However, it is very possible that I'm mistaken. Lets see if maybe I'm mistaken. How about you answer a couple questions for me. I'm a rather new heating and AC tech, so here's a great chance for me to learn. 1) You say that each of the three compressor terminals represents its own winding. I know of two windings, but you say there are three. What are the names of the three windings, and what do they each do? 2) What are the names of the electrical terminals on a typical compressor? What does each terminal do? 3) In terms of temperature, what happens when a terminal is corroded, and trying to carry current? And in terms of the electrical flow, what happens when a terminal is corroded? 4) What is the electrical current path through a compressor? For example, which terminal is hot, and which is neutral? I will likely be working on condensing units this summer, and perhaps some of your answers will help me to be a better technician. -- Christopher A. Young Jesus: The Reason for the Season www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. Each of the three wires on your compressor represents it's own respective winding in the compressor. Each, when excessive current draw is present, indicate to a competent (dare I say that word here), technician the correct path to follow with respect to troubleshooting. So in order to even begin to remotely guess at the problem one would need the information specific to which wire is carring excessive current. Even though they all may indicate excessive current, simply due to the proximity of one to the other, there is one that is the actual carring the excessive current. With that being said, the first thing a service tech would do is use an Amprobe to determine the actual draw in each conductor, |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
It's obviously not a dead short numb nuts or the damn thing wouldn't provide
performance at all, if it's burning or heating insulation on the wires then it's running at excessive current which would be checked with an AMMETER, I certainly do not require either meter selection or use tutorials from someone who cannot even correctly read a frikkin' post. What exactly, Mr. Turtle do you believe in all those years of amassing this experience that you seem so proud of that the alpha designation of C-S-R mean when applied to a compressor? "TURTLE" wrote in message ... "Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. "TURTLE" wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. Does this sound correct? I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? Thanks, Keith This is Turtle. First here, If the wires [ like the whole length is melting ] is melted. You have these things wrong with it. You have too big of a breaker to your condenser unit or have to reset the breaker every hour or so, The wire kit he put on it is too small, and You have a shorted out compressor somewhat. If everything is installed correctly. You can't melt the wires. There is no such thing as a shorted out compressor, somewhat. It's either shorted out or it is not. This is Turtle. Hummmmmm , You must not have checked too many compressor lately have you. The test to check for a shorted or internal short from one pole to the other is to use a OHM meter and see if you have a path to gound first and then read each of the terminal to the other to see if you have the correct ohm's throught each. You read from R to S and get the ohm reading and then read from R to C and S to C and add the two together and you should get the ohm reading you got by reading R to S. If they don't match you have one winding touching the other some where in side the motor it'self. They can still run with a bleed over. Now for a simple explained condition of this is when you hear a tech say That compressor is just high amping too much or just pulling too many amps. This is what he is telling you here. A short out compressor does not have to be to ground and can be a short from one winding to the other and when I say somewhat. This is what I'm speaking of. There is a reply below here too. Keith the correct answer to your question, or at least as correct as any observation can be using the information available and considering this is as I always say the internet. Each of the three wires on your compressor represents it's own respective winding in the compressor. Each, when excessive current draw is present, indicate to a competent (dare I say that word here), technician the correct path to follow with respect to troubleshooting. So in order to even begin to remotely guess at the problem one would need the information specific to which wire is carring excessive current. Even though they all may indicate excessive current, simply due to the proximity of one to the other, there is one that is the actual carring the excessive current. With that being said, the first thing a service tech would do is use an Amprobe to determine the actual draw in each conductor, I further suspect that your friends assesment is incorrect, if what he indicated to you were true, you would get zero run time out of the compressor, it would quickly overheat and cut out on an embedded thermal overload-quickly, not a few days, few weeks or few months. There would also be other indicative attributes that you have not mentioned.Since from what I read the most educated observation that can be concluded is that the problem is associated with the run winding, assuming the capacitor that your are referring to is in fact the run capacitor and not the start capacitor. There are a multitude of factors that can contribute to issues with the run winding in the compressor. To begin with the run cap itself can be defective, has anyone tested or replaced it? You are saying here that the problem may lie with the run winding because the run capasitor or maybe the start capasitor maybe defective. I maybe catching or reading you wrong here by you saying the run capasitor or the start capasitor is in the run winding circuit in some way. I can't remember here , is the run capasitor in the run winding ? Clear this up for me. A dirty condenser coil will increase the current draw on both the run and common windings in the compressor, Your saying the amps will go up on the Run winding and the Common winding. I have never heard of a common winding on single phase compressors in my 40 something years in the business. They have a Common winding on 3 phase stuff but not on single phase stuff. Clear this up for me. has the coil been cleaned thorughly since the issues originally occured. For the same reason that a dirty coil can cause it, so to can a condenser fan that is not performing to design requirements, if enough heat is not being rejected at the condenser because of dirt or a bad or faulty fan it will be indicated in the compressor current draw. If the condenser fan motor is too slow / wrong blade / wrong R.P.M. / or just not moving enough air throught the condenser and causing the compressor to over amp. You will see a 90 to 100 psi suction and a 400 to 500 psi head pressure on the freon system. Then you say the amp will go up to enough to burn the wires off the compressor. If the amperage goes above the rated limit of the compressor more than 5 minutes. The compressor will cut out on high temp or high amps. If the amperage goes up enough to melt the wires to the compressor the service breaker or the internal overload will trip and cut it off. I just can't see the amperage staying above 60 to 90 amps for very long at all with out something cutting it off. One other thing here. If the amperage goes above the rating limit of the compressor more than 5 minutes it will turn off for 2 to 4 hour while it cools off. Clear this up for me. Oversizing wires, if that is in fact what the latter contractor did, is not only bad practice and stupid it is also dangerous. The wiring within the equipment is the size (AWG), that it is for a reason. You say by using a larger compressor wire kit is Stupid and is also Dangerous. You also said the wire to the compressor is designed to be a exact size [AWG] and you should not go up on it. I just don't see any danger in upping the wire size kit to the compressor unless your using the wires as a fuse and will burn off at a high amp rate. I alway just put a breaker on the whole condenser and use it and not the compressor wires as a fuse link. Clear this up for me. And finally, even though it would be premature, provided the equipment is properly maintained, the fault may in fact be a defective compressor, it certainly would not be unheard of. I would contact a competent service company that uses meters to determine cause. Now this I agree with finally. TURTLE --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.583 / Virus Database: 369 - Release Date: 2/10/2004 |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
What is the amp draw at that wire? When was the last time the condenser was
flushed? "Keith Reding" wrote in message .net... The unit is a York Model H2DAQ42SQ6A. The Serial Number is ELBM396211. Here are the links to some photos showing the burned wires. I thought the burned wires were connected to the capacitor but they are not. See the photos for a better explanation. http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1833.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1834.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1835.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1836.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1837.jpg Thanks for your help. Keith "CBhvac" stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehva c.com wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. obviously...no. You have not given the model number or serial number to the unit. Depending on the model and serial, you may have a couple of items, and if you will get that and either post it, or send it this way, we can pull up the unit, and tell you what is the most likely problem. Does this sound correct? Nope...not always. I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? See the reply above. Once I know what model and run line of unit you have, then its a simple matter of pulling it up on cd and badda bing...there you go. The reason I need that, is that some of those had issues, that looked one way, and were another. Thanks, Keith |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
I fully agree with Turtle that the contactor (relay) is bad.
I'm not a HVAC technician, but I am an electrical engineer with 15 years of experience testing contactors and relays. The photos show that the terminals are corrode; chances are, the contacts of the contactor are as well. Fungus, corrosion, and normal usage can cause an increase of resistance on electrical contacts. An increase of resistance will cause a voltage drop to appear across the contacts of the contactor thus making the contacts dissipate more power (heat). From what I see, the wires are burned near the relay. I have seen this condition many times in relays that were under test. The contacts get hot enough to melt the insulation on the wires near the relay but not hot enough to melt the relay. Replace the relay and the wires and that should solve your problem. Turtle is a smart cookie. |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
Sounds reasonable. The first time the wires burned through it was at the
capacitor. The second time it was at the relay. The third and current time is at the relay but the wires going to the capacitor looks fine. I will replace the relay and wires and hopefully that will make a difference. Each time I have had burned or melted wires they have been at the connectors so hopefully this will fix the problem. Thanks to everyone for their assistance. Keith "Al" wrote in message m... I fully agree with Turtle that the contactor (relay) is bad. I'm not a HVAC technician, but I am an electrical engineer with 15 years of experience testing contactors and relays. The photos show that the terminals are corrode; chances are, the contacts of the contactor are as well. Fungus, corrosion, and normal usage can cause an increase of resistance on electrical contacts. An increase of resistance will cause a voltage drop to appear across the contacts of the contactor thus making the contacts dissipate more power (heat). From what I see, the wires are burned near the relay. I have seen this condition many times in relays that were under test. The contacts get hot enough to melt the insulation on the wires near the relay but not hot enough to melt the relay. Replace the relay and the wires and that should solve your problem. Turtle is a smart cookie. |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
According to Tony Berlin :
There is no such thing as a shorted out compressor, somewhat. It's either shorted out or it is not. Not true. A single adjacent shorted out winding will cause the current draw to go way up, but the motor will usually still turn fine (more or less). I think Turtle may be drawing attention away from the right thing to check, but he's quite right insofar as motors can easily draw more than they should. Ie: shorted windings, stiff bearings or seals, etc. The fact that the condenser wiring is melting is very suggestive (especially after wiring and condensor replacement), not of a winding or condensor problem (a shorted condensor could do this), but that of the start switch. _Normally_, the condenser is only connected to the start winding for a few seconds at most while the motor is getting up to speed. Once the motor nears operating speed, the condensor and start winding are switched off. The condensor wiring shouldn't be in-circuit long enough to get hot even if it is drawing too much current. Having the condensor wiring overheat is suggestive of one of two things: 1) the start switch is malfunctioning and holding the start winding in-circuit too long, and (possibly in addition), there's a short in the start winding and it's pulling too much current when it is in-circuit. 2) The motor is taking WAY too much time to get up to speed (bad bearings, semi-seized seals etc), and hence the condensor circuit is remaining in-circuit MUCH too long. There are other possibilities (ie: the condensor capacitive value is _grossly_ wrong, but unless you have gremlins running around replacing start condensers without you knowing it ;-), unlikely) Motor windings rarely fail and are quite expensive to "repair", so I'd concentrate elsewhere first. I'd look into the start switch and making sure it's not fused (spot welded) closed. Often just "unsticking it" and polishing it up with a nail file or similar does the trick. Also check to see whether there's too much rotation resistance. Maybe it needs new seals. Or a new compressor. Ugh. -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
Don't be surprised to find that contactor full of ants.
For some reason they are attracted to those things like bees to pollen. Nothing like a dozen flattened insects to raise resisance. On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 21:39:21 GMT, "Keith Reding" wrote: |Sounds reasonable. The first time the wires burned through it was at the |capacitor. The second time it was at the relay. The third and current time |is at the relay but the wires going to the capacitor looks fine. I will |replace the relay and wires and hopefully that will make a difference. Each |time I have had burned or melted wires they have been at the connectors so |hopefully this will fix the problem. | |Thanks to everyone for their assistance. | |Keith | |"Al" wrote in message om... | I fully agree with Turtle that the contactor (relay) is bad. | | I'm not a HVAC technician, but I am an electrical engineer with 15 years |of | experience testing contactors and relays. The photos show that the |terminals | are corrode; chances are, the contacts of the contactor are as well. |Fungus, | corrosion, and normal usage can cause an increase of resistance on | electrical contacts. An increase of resistance will cause a voltage drop |to | appear across the contacts of the contactor thus making the contacts | dissipate more power (heat). From what I see, the wires are burned near |the | relay. I have seen this condition many times in relays that were under | test. The contacts get hot enough to melt the insulation on the wires near | the relay but not hot enough to melt the relay. Replace the relay and the | wires and that should solve your problem. | | Turtle is a smart cookie. | | | | Rex in Fort Worth |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
According to TURTLE :
"Keith Reding" wrote in message .net... I bought the house 4 years ago and the unit was about 5 years old when I bought the house. I don't know that is has ever been flushed. Neither tech suggested that to me. This is Turtle. If the Tech / service company can't tighten up the connection enough to keep them from burning off. Two thing is taking place here. 1) He is wanting to sell you a new condener by leaving the connection loose and let them burn off. 2) The tech just does not know how to tighten up the connection correctly. Turtle, I see _significant_ corrosion on the terminal screw (on at least) the lower of the two hot spots. See first picture - has the best view. Not only is the screw and metal conductor corroded to crap, the black plastic (or bakelite) on the terminal is clearly baked and is going to start disintegrating. You can winch new wire down as much as you want, but with that much corrosion on the terminal, it's never going to stay "fixed". The pictures aren't good enough to tell if the upper terminal connection is as badly damaged. That thing appears to be a relay. I think it needs to be replaced or refurbished somehow. If it's the start relay (see my other posting), the contacts may also be sticking (or permanently stuck) and be the original cause of the whole mess. I can't believe a serviceman would simply replace that wiring harness without at least commenting about the condition of the relay. Sheesh! -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Keith Reding" wrote in message .net... The unit is a York Model H2DAQ42SQ6A. The Serial Number is ELBM396211. Thats a Model number: H2DA042S06 style A. No Q in it. As information, last date on record for that unit was 11-30-93. It was never registered under warranty. Gotta love it. As far as the pics go, you have a very simple problem to fix. As long as the compressor is not overamping once the job is complete, you are ok. The contactor is bad, and the terminals are loose....even when they have replaced the wire. All the 220VAC leads need to be as tight as possible, otherwise they will overheat and you get that problem. Chances are, that the leads to the compressor at the R and S terminals are loose as well, and will further add to the overheating. The correct run capacitor for that unit is a 45-5-440, and you better have that on there as well. if they have not replaced the cap, do so. The correct contactor for that unit is a single pole, 30 amp, 24v coil, with shunt. common unit, and the correct part number is 02425835700, Source One. It is in phase out mode, and the price will be about $26 for the correct one. The capacitor is a little higher, for the correct York part...they run according to the listings for about $29.00. sure, you can get them for less, but as a York dealer, I only use Source One parts, as I dont have to make any modifications to anything. Here are the links to some photos showing the burned wires. I thought the burned wires were connected to the capacitor but they are not. See the photos for a better explanation. http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1833.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1834.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1835.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1836.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1837.jpg Thanks for your help. Keith "CBhvac" stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehva c.com wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. obviously...no. You have not given the model number or serial number to the unit. Depending on the model and serial, you may have a couple of items, and if you will get that and either post it, or send it this way, we can pull up the unit, and tell you what is the most likely problem. Does this sound correct? Nope...not always. I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? See the reply above. Once I know what model and run line of unit you have, then its a simple matter of pulling it up on cd and badda bing...there you go. The reason I need that, is that some of those had issues, that looked one way, and were another. Thanks, Keith |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
Didn't think you knew.
-- Christopher A. Young Jesus: The Reason for the Season www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. I will simply answer your question by replying to the first part, since you don't know the answer to that question, I am not inclined to accept as fact that you are or have taken training in anything other than ignorance any idiot with a copy of Goodhart-Wilcox Modern HVAC or the mental capacity to use a search engine can locate the answers to those questions. The reply I gave to the question was accurate.....period. And if you did in fact take training at some community college or whatever mail order course you subscribed to, I would seek recompense from then......without delay. "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Dear Tony, I've been posting to home repair for a couple years. I've read Turtle's posts for several years, and he's been a real wealth of information. He's solved problems for myself, and many others. I'm not quite so sure about you, though. |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
Ah, gee. Now we got to install flush valves on condensors, as well as
toilets? You sure you know something about AC? You sound more like a plumber who got talked into "Oh, yes! Can you look at my AC". -- Christopher A. Young Jesus: The Reason for the Season www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. What is the amp draw at that wire? When was the last time the condenser was flushed? "Keith Reding" wrote in message .net... The unit is a York Model H2DAQ42SQ6A. The Serial Number is ELBM396211. Here are the links to some photos showing the burned wires. I thought the burned wires were connected to the capacitor but they are not. See the photos for a better explanation. |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Ah, gee. Now we got to install flush valves on condensors, as well as toilets? You sure you know something about AC? You sound more like a plumber who got talked into "Oh, yes! Can you look at my AC". Chris..if you had a clue, and you dont, (lets be honest here, and stop trying to fool folks about your background and knowledge) then you would know what a condenser flush is. Some also call it a foam out. Others call it a cleaning. Either way, the idea is to loosen the accumulated dust, grime and oils from deep in the fins, flush them out, and restore proper coil to air contact. IF the coil is clogged, as many are, then the fan amps go down, the fan speeds up, the heat pressures go up, the compressor amps go up, and if the compressor does not shut down on thermal, it will overamp and possibly create in some isolated circumstances the same problem that the OP has. -- Christopher A. Young "Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. What is the amp draw at that wire? When was the last time the condenser was flushed? "Keith Reding" wrote in message .net... The unit is a York Model H2DAQ42SQ6A. The Serial Number is ELBM396211. Here are the links to some photos showing the burned wires. I thought the burned wires were connected to the capacitor but they are not. See the photos for a better explanation. |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Didn't think you knew. In other words, you are again proving that you are a liar, and a hack.. I dont mince words. You on the other hand, try to swindle, and cheat and fool people into saying things that will actually help you, and make you look better. Get a grip man...you are nothing but a 50 something locksmith, living in a tin can, in NY, that has an old boss that gave up on you. "Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. I will simply answer your question by replying to the first part, since you don't know the answer to that question, I am not inclined to accept as fact that you are or have taken training in anything other than ignorance any idiot with a copy of Goodhart-Wilcox Modern HVAC or the mental capacity to use a search engine can locate the answers to those questions. The reply I gave to the question was accurate.....period. And if you did in fact take training at some community college or whatever mail order course you subscribed to, I would seek recompense from then......without delay. "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Dear Tony, I've been posting to home repair for a couple years. I've read Turtle's posts for several years, and he's been a real wealth of information. He's solved problems for myself, and many others. I'm not quite so sure about you, though. |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
Couple things. First, Turtle is a smart cookie, and from what I can read of
his posts, an excellent repairman. I did look at a couple of the pictures. Since the wire from the cap goes to a terminal block (and two other things) it makes me wonder if this is a load carrying wire, not just from the comp to the cap. The wire you pointed to with the arrow does appear smaller than the other wires. Wonder if a dab of Noalox would be a good idea for these press on terminals? Cut down on corrosion. -- Christopher A. Young Jesus: The Reason for the Season www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Al" wrote in message m... I fully agree with Turtle that the contactor (relay) is bad. I'm not a HVAC technician, but I am an electrical engineer with 15 years of experience testing contactors and relays. The photos show that the terminals are corrode; chances are, the contacts of the contactor are as well. Fungus, corrosion, and normal usage can cause an increase of resistance on electrical contacts. An increase of resistance will cause a voltage drop to appear across the contacts of the contactor thus making the contacts dissipate more power (heat). From what I see, the wires are burned near the relay. I have seen this condition many times in relays that were under test. The contacts get hot enough to melt the insulation on the wires near the relay but not hot enough to melt the relay. Replace the relay and the wires and that should solve your problem. Turtle is a smart cookie. |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
Hey, Tony, go back to driving a garbage truck. You might do less damage.
-- Christopher A. Young Jesus: The Reason for the Season www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Tony Berlin" wrote in message . .. It's obviously not a dead short numb nuts or the damn thing wouldn't provide performance at all, if it's burning or heating insulation on the wires then it's running at excessive current which would be checked with an AMMETER, I certainly do not require either meter selection or use tutorials from someone who cannot even correctly read a frikkin' post. What exactly, Mr. Turtle do you believe in all those years of amassing this experience that you seem so proud of that the alpha designation of C-S-R mean when applied to a compressor? |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
Did you see how rusty that compressor capacitor (condensor, for Brits?) is?
-- Christopher A. Young Jesus: The Reason for the Season www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Chris Lewis" wrote in message ... The fact that the condenser wiring is melting is very suggestive (especially after wiring and condensor replacement), not of a winding or condensor problem (a shorted condensor could do this), but that of the start switch. _Normally_, the condenser is only connected to the start winding for a few seconds at most while the motor is getting up to speed. Once the motor nears operating speed, the condensor and start winding are switched off. The condensor wiring shouldn't be in-circuit long enough to get hot even if it is drawing too much current. Having the condensor wiring overheat is suggestive of one of two things: 1) the start switch is malfunctioning and holding the start winding in-circuit too long, and (possibly in addition), there's a short in the start winding and it's pulling too much current when it is in-circuit. 2) The motor is taking WAY too much time to get up to speed (bad bearings, semi-seized seals etc), and hence the condensor circuit is remaining in-circuit MUCH too long. There are other possibilities (ie: the condensor capacitive value is _grossly_ wrong, but unless you have gremlins running around replacing start condensers without you knowing it ;-), unlikely) Motor windings rarely fail and are quite expensive to "repair", so I'd concentrate elsewhere first. I'd look into the start switch and making sure it's not fused (spot welded) closed. Often just "unsticking it" and polishing it up with a nail file or similar does the trick. Also check to see whether there's too much rotation resistance. Maybe it needs new seals. Or a new compressor. Ugh. -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Hey, Tony, go back to driving a garbage truck. You might do less damage. -- Hey Chris, go back to stealing from drunk women that are locked out....you might actually get laid. |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
The AC originally had a single capacitor but the first repair guy said it
was crap and replaced it with the two separate units. Keith "go fish" wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message The unit is a York Model H2DAQ42SQ6A. The Serial Number is ELBM396211. Here are the links to some photos showing the burned wires. I thought the burned wires were connected to the capacitor but they are not. See the photos for a better explanation. http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1833.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1834.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1835.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1836.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1837.jpg Thanks for your help. Keith Keith, after viewing your pictures and reading the various posts, as a tech I'd take the following steps to remedy your situation: 1) replace the one pole contactor with another 1 pole contactor, 40 amp rating 2) cut the wiring back to clean, unburnt copper and crimp on eyelet connectors that attach to the contactor with screw lugs 3) replace the capacitors with either single capacitors rated for their respective loads (condenser fan motor and compressor) or as CB mentions, the correct dual cap that originally came with that unit. 4) ensure that the wiring lugs at the compressor terminals are electrically tight, not corroded, and NOT of the male spade variety, as Turtle mentioned. Install split bolts if you have to. 5) like the moron tony berlin suggested, flush your condenser. what he really meant was wash the condenser coils to ensure cleanliness, free from dirt and debris. 6) ensure every high voltage electrical connection was tight, starting from the circuit breaker panel, to the disconnect, to the connections inside the condenser. 7) finally, depending on a lot of factors, i may install a hard start kit. you see mr berlin, i'd be looking at my startup and RLA AFTER i'd completed ALL of the above steps. On a side note CB, your star will shine alot brighter when you cease with your unprovoked attacks on SM. I give the guy credit for at least asking questions, its just unfortunate he had to ask them of that brain dead egotistical tony berlin. "CBhvac" stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehva c.com wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. obviously...no. You have not given the model number or serial number to the unit. Depending on the model and serial, you may have a couple of items, and if you will get that and either post it, or send it this way, we can pull up the unit, and tell you what is the most likely problem. Does this sound correct? Nope...not always. I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? See the reply above. Once I know what model and run line of unit you have, then its a simple matter of pulling it up on cd and badda bing...there you go. The reason I need that, is that some of those had issues, that looked one way, and were another. Thanks, Keith |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Keith Reding" wrote in message k.net... The AC originally had a single capacitor but the first repair guy said it was crap and replaced it with the two separate units. Nope..it wasnt crap..it was the RIGHT part, and it was a GE BTW, one of the better ones. What hes done now, is part of your problem. How does he have them wired? In series, or parallel? Damn...to think there are techs out there that do that kind of work, and get away with it. I normally dont do this, but if you want the right one, I will verify pricing in the morning, and if you need one, get you a wiring diagram, and tell you how to fix THAT problem. I am willing to bet that my York supply has it for less than the dealers net lists it for....since we only use that for part numbers anyway. Keith "go fish" wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message The unit is a York Model H2DAQ42SQ6A. The Serial Number is ELBM396211. Here are the links to some photos showing the burned wires. I thought the burned wires were connected to the capacitor but they are not. See the photos for a better explanation. http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1833.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1834.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1835.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1836.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1837.jpg Thanks for your help. Keith Keith, after viewing your pictures and reading the various posts, as a tech I'd take the following steps to remedy your situation: 1) replace the one pole contactor with another 1 pole contactor, 40 amp rating 2) cut the wiring back to clean, unburnt copper and crimp on eyelet connectors that attach to the contactor with screw lugs 3) replace the capacitors with either single capacitors rated for their respective loads (condenser fan motor and compressor) or as CB mentions, the correct dual cap that originally came with that unit. 4) ensure that the wiring lugs at the compressor terminals are electrically tight, not corroded, and NOT of the male spade variety, as Turtle mentioned. Install split bolts if you have to. 5) like the moron tony berlin suggested, flush your condenser. what he really meant was wash the condenser coils to ensure cleanliness, free from dirt and debris. 6) ensure every high voltage electrical connection was tight, starting from the circuit breaker panel, to the disconnect, to the connections inside the condenser. 7) finally, depending on a lot of factors, i may install a hard start kit. you see mr berlin, i'd be looking at my startup and RLA AFTER i'd completed ALL of the above steps. On a side note CB, your star will shine alot brighter when you cease with your unprovoked attacks on SM. I give the guy credit for at least asking questions, its just unfortunate he had to ask them of that brain dead egotistical tony berlin. "CBhvac" stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehva c.com wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. obviously...no. You have not given the model number or serial number to the unit. Depending on the model and serial, you may have a couple of items, and if you will get that and either post it, or send it this way, we can pull up the unit, and tell you what is the most likely problem. Does this sound correct? Nope...not always. I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? See the reply above. Once I know what model and run line of unit you have, then its a simple matter of pulling it up on cd and badda bing...there you go. The reason I need that, is that some of those had issues, that looked one way, and were another. Thanks, Keith |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"go fish" wrote in message ... Snip Keith, after viewing your pictures and reading the various posts, as a tech I'd take the following steps to remedy your situation: 1) replace the one pole contactor with another 1 pole contactor, 40 amp rating 2) cut the wiring back to clean, unburnt copper and crimp on eyelet connectors that attach to the contactor with screw lugs 3) replace the capacitors with either single capacitors rated for their respective loads (condenser fan motor and compressor) or as CB mentions, the correct dual cap that originally came with that unit. Read his later post...thats part of his issue for almost sure. 4) ensure that the wiring lugs at the compressor terminals are electrically tight, not corroded, and NOT of the male spade variety, as Turtle mentioned. Install split bolts if you have to. 5) like the moron tony berlin suggested, flush your condenser. what he really meant was wash the condenser coils to ensure cleanliness, free from dirt and debris. 6) ensure every high voltage electrical connection was tight, starting from the circuit breaker panel, to the disconnect, to the connections inside the condenser. 7) finally, depending on a lot of factors, i may install a hard start kit. you see mr berlin, i'd be looking at my startup and RLA AFTER i'd completed ALL of the above steps. On a side note CB, your star will shine alot brighter when you cease with your unprovoked attacks on SM. I give the guy credit for at least asking questions, its just unfortunate he had to ask them of that brain dead egotistical tony berlin. GF..you know me as well as any...and while I agree with you to a point and respect your thoughts on the matter, the more I read of that morons postings....well...you already know.. Personally, I take his giving advice as an attack on a trade, that by Keiths uneducated tech proves, has enough idiots working in it that continue to pass themselves off as fully trained, and licenced persons. It bugs me in a way I cant describe. "CBhvac" stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehva c.com wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. obviously...no. You have not given the model number or serial number to the unit. Depending on the model and serial, you may have a couple of items, and if you will get that and either post it, or send it this way, we can pull up the unit, and tell you what is the most likely problem. Does this sound correct? Nope...not always. I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? See the reply above. Once I know what model and run line of unit you have, then its a simple matter of pulling it up on cd and badda bing...there you go. The reason I need that, is that some of those had issues, that looked one way, and were another. Thanks, Keith |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
Sounds like a plan. My neighbor used to do AC repairs so he can certainly
help me install the correct cap, especially if I have a wiring diagram. Keith "CBhvac" stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehva c.com wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message k.net... The AC originally had a single capacitor but the first repair guy said it was crap and replaced it with the two separate units. Nope..it wasnt crap..it was the RIGHT part, and it was a GE BTW, one of the better ones. What hes done now, is part of your problem. How does he have them wired? In series, or parallel? Damn...to think there are techs out there that do that kind of work, and get away with it. I normally dont do this, but if you want the right one, I will verify pricing in the morning, and if you need one, get you a wiring diagram, and tell you how to fix THAT problem. I am willing to bet that my York supply has it for less than the dealers net lists it for....since we only use that for part numbers anyway. Keith "go fish" wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message The unit is a York Model H2DAQ42SQ6A. The Serial Number is ELBM396211. Here are the links to some photos showing the burned wires. I thought the burned wires were connected to the capacitor but they are not. See the photos for a better explanation. http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1833.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1834.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1835.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1836.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1837.jpg Thanks for your help. Keith Keith, after viewing your pictures and reading the various posts, as a tech I'd take the following steps to remedy your situation: 1) replace the one pole contactor with another 1 pole contactor, 40 amp rating 2) cut the wiring back to clean, unburnt copper and crimp on eyelet connectors that attach to the contactor with screw lugs 3) replace the capacitors with either single capacitors rated for their respective loads (condenser fan motor and compressor) or as CB mentions, the correct dual cap that originally came with that unit. 4) ensure that the wiring lugs at the compressor terminals are electrically tight, not corroded, and NOT of the male spade variety, as Turtle mentioned. Install split bolts if you have to. 5) like the moron tony berlin suggested, flush your condenser. what he really meant was wash the condenser coils to ensure cleanliness, free from dirt and debris. 6) ensure every high voltage electrical connection was tight, starting from the circuit breaker panel, to the disconnect, to the connections inside the condenser. 7) finally, depending on a lot of factors, i may install a hard start kit. you see mr berlin, i'd be looking at my startup and RLA AFTER i'd completed ALL of the above steps. On a side note CB, your star will shine alot brighter when you cease with your unprovoked attacks on SM. I give the guy credit for at least asking questions, its just unfortunate he had to ask them of that brain dead egotistical tony berlin. "CBhvac" stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehva c.com wrote in message ... "Keith Reding" wrote in message link.net... I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working. The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when the wires melted again. Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken it apart to look. obviously...no. You have not given the model number or serial number to the unit. Depending on the model and serial, you may have a couple of items, and if you will get that and either post it, or send it this way, we can pull up the unit, and tell you what is the most likely problem. Does this sound correct? Nope...not always. I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem? See the reply above. Once I know what model and run line of unit you have, then its a simple matter of pulling it up on cd and badda bing...there you go. The reason I need that, is that some of those had issues, that looked one way, and were another. Thanks, Keith |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
Actually, I know all the answers to the questions I asked -- I didn't think
Tony did. With Tony Berlin's bad attitude, I put him in the killfile right next to CBH. -- Christopher A. Young Jesus: The Reason for the Season www.lds.org www.mormons.com "go fish" wrote in message ... On a side note CB, your star will shine alot brighter when you cease with your unprovoked attacks on SM. I give the guy credit for at least asking questions, its just unfortunate he had to ask them of that brain dead egotistical tony berlin. |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
In order to assist Tony (whose messages no longer appear on my screen) I am
providing the answers to the test. Enjoy! -- Christopher A. Young Jesus: The Reason for the Season www.lds.org www.mormons.com 1) You say that each of the three compressor terminals represents its own winding. I know of two windings, but you say there are three. What are the names of the three windings, and what do they each do? SM: There are two windings. They are the start winding, and the run winding. I didn't think Tony could answer this one. 2) What are the names of the electrical terminals on a typical compressor? What does each terminal do? SM: Common, start, and run. Common acts as a neutral, though on 220 volt comps, the common terminal is "hot". Start provides for extra torque for starting. On refrigeration compressors, the start terminal is usually only powered for a second or two, via a start relay. On AC units, it is often hooked to a motor run capacitor. Run terminal provides the power to run the compressor. 3) In terms of temperature, what happens when a terminal is corroded, and trying to carry current? And in terms of the electrical flow, what happens when a terminal is corroded? SM: When a terminal is corroded, it provides a resistance. Also can be called a "load". This blocks or reduces the flow of electricity, and turns the electricity to heat energy. 4) What is the electrical current path through a compressor? For example, which terminal is hot, and which is neutral? SM: During startup (of start relay units) power is supplied to the S terminal, and exits through the C terminal. After the compressor motor starts, power is then supplied to R terminal,a nd exits through the C terminal. In some AC compressors, the power is applied to R terminal, using C for neutral. S and R terminals goes to a motor run capacitor. |
wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Actually, I know all the answers to the questions I asked -- I didn't think Tony did. With Tony Berlin's bad attitude, I put him in the killfile right next to CBH. Thats hilarious, since you reply to me everywhere else, including your little Yhoo group...:) And Chris, I dont have a bad attitude...I hate that you are giving answers to things you have no clue about....and have given wrong, and at times, dangerous advice. You are an amatuer, playing pro...and that, is just wrong. -- Christopher A. Young Jesus: The Reason for the Season www.lds.org www.mormons.com "go fish" wrote in message ... On a side note CB, your star will shine alot brighter when you cease with your unprovoked attacks on SM. I give the guy credit for at least asking questions, its just unfortunate he had to ask them of that brain dead egotistical tony berlin. |
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