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#1
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
Recently attracted by the low price ($2.99) for a single fluorescent (screw
in replacement for a regular lamp/bulb) package I decided to try one in the outside fixture over our front door. Previously I had only seen them in packages of two ranging in price from $10 to $19. The package claims such things as "Uses 15 watts but gives as much light as 75 watts". (Not that I've ever seen a 75 watt bulb AFIK). I've understood that these 'fluorescents' last longest and work best when left on continuously. Since our outdoor light is usually on all night it seemed like good bet! And might save some electricity. So I removed the 'long life' incandescent, which I understand is basically a 130 volt bulb running on 115 volts? That lighting circuit is served from a circuit breaker sub-panel next to the kitchen at one end of the house. Changing the lamp requires the use of a step ladder; so in the current winter weather the idea of a long life bulb was also attractive! The results were disappointing to say the least. Even after an hour or so when the lamp/bulb had warmed up the light out put was low; less, I estimated than a cheap 40 watt incandescent. The colour of the light was poor; a sort of washed out white. The lamp is also physically longer so it won't fit in some fixtures unless one were to modify them. However; and the main reason for posting this here, is that it caused significant radio interference to the bedside radio some 50 feet away plugged into a wall socket fed from a completely separate circuit from the main circuit breaker panel. The interference was not sufficient to interfere with the local broadcast stations some miles away, when tuned exactly to a station; but if the orientation of the radio with its built in antenna was changed interference was apparent on a number of frequencies particularly in the low end of the AM 'Broadcast Band' e.g. around 600 to 900 kilohertz. Unfortunately I discarded the package, but I'm pretty sure it was labeled "Complies with UL and CSA (Canadian Standards Association)". I intend to go back to the store and get the details from an identical package. Unless I happened to buy the one defective unit bought randomly, in a batch, it seems strange that a device that radiates such noticeable interference should be sold in North America. Anyone have similar experience? And maybe this comment may avoid some unintentional RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). Cheers. Terry. |
#2
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
You shouldn't use them outside unless they mention it on the label. Some
can't take cold. Seeing your .ca, that seems like it might be your problem. Some are real crap and don't last as long as they should, but I have never had a problem with them like you describe, and I have them all over my house. I even have two in outside fixtures at my cottage, but they are only on in the summer. |
#3
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
Terry wrote:
fluorescent (screw in replacement for a regular lamp/bulb) package I decided to try one in the outside fixture over our front door. Many fluorescents work dimly and poorly in cold temperatures. Halogen would be best for you. (Not that I've ever seen a 75 watt bulb AFIK). You haven't? It's the size I use most commonly- they are everywhere. And many fluorescents produce lots of RFI. John H. |
#4
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
Yeah, they interfere with my AM radio too.
While they are SOLD in North America, the fluorescent bulbs are NOT MADE in North America. Perhaps that accounts for the interference problem. In a situation like yours where you leave the light on all night, I would go back to a standard bulb. Des "Terry" wrote in message . .. Recently attracted by the low price ($2.99) for a single fluorescent (screw in replacement for a regular lamp/bulb) package I decided to try one in the outside fixture over our front door. Previously I had only seen them in packages of two ranging in price from $10 to $19. The package claims such things as "Uses 15 watts but gives as much light as 75 watts". (Not that I've ever seen a 75 watt bulb AFIK). I've understood that these 'fluorescents' last longest and work best when left on continuously. Since our outdoor light is usually on all night it seemed like good bet! And might save some electricity. So I removed the 'long life' incandescent, which I understand is basically a 130 volt bulb running on 115 volts? That lighting circuit is served from a circuit breaker sub-panel next to the kitchen at one end of the house. Changing the lamp requires the use of a step ladder; so in the current winter weather the idea of a long life bulb was also attractive! The results were disappointing to say the least. Even after an hour or so when the lamp/bulb had warmed up the light out put was low; less, I estimated than a cheap 40 watt incandescent. The colour of the light was poor; a sort of washed out white. The lamp is also physically longer so it won't fit in some fixtures unless one were to modify them. However; and the main reason for posting this here, is that it caused significant radio interference to the bedside radio some 50 feet away plugged into a wall socket fed from a completely separate circuit from the main circuit breaker panel. The interference was not sufficient to interfere with the local broadcast stations some miles away, when tuned exactly to a station; but if the orientation of the radio with its built in antenna was changed interference was apparent on a number of frequencies particularly in the low end of the AM 'Broadcast Band' e.g. around 600 to 900 kilohertz. Unfortunately I discarded the package, but I'm pretty sure it was labeled "Complies with UL and CSA (Canadian Standards Association)". I intend to go back to the store and get the details from an identical package. Unless I happened to buy the one defective unit bought randomly, in a batch, it seems strange that a device that radiates such noticeable interference should be sold in North America. Anyone have similar experience? And maybe this comment may avoid some unintentional RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). Cheers. Terry. |
#5
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
About a year ago, I used compact flourescents to replace four incandescent
bulbs in a bank of lights directly over my workbench. I assumed that they would create some interference, but I haven't noticed any problems at all, either for radio or TV reception in the workshop. Perhaps the brand & type used makes some difference -- there seem to be quite a few flavors available at this time. Regards, Phil |
#6
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
Terry wrote: Recently attracted by the low price ($2.99) for a single fluorescent (screw in replacement for a regular lamp/bulb) package I decided to try one in the outside fixture over our front door. Previously I had only seen them in packages of two ranging in price from $10 to $19. The package claims such things as "Uses 15 watts but gives as much light as 75 watts". (Not that I've ever seen a 75 watt bulb AFIK). I've understood that these 'fluorescents' last longest and work best when left on continuously. Since our outdoor light is usually on all night it seemed like good bet! And might save some electricity. So I removed the 'long life' incandescent, which I understand is basically a 130 volt bulb running on 115 volts? That lighting circuit is served from a circuit breaker sub-panel next to the kitchen at one end of the house. Changing the lamp requires the use of a step ladder; so in the current winter weather the idea of a long life bulb was also attractive! The results were disappointing to say the least. Even after an hour or so when the lamp/bulb had warmed up the light out put was low; less, I estimated than a cheap 40 watt incandescent. The colour of the light was poor; a sort of washed out white. The lamp is also physically longer so it won't fit in some fixtures unless one were to modify them. However; and the main reason for posting this here, is that it caused significant radio interference to the bedside radio some 50 feet away plugged into a wall socket fed from a completely separate circuit from the main circuit breaker panel. The interference was not sufficient to interfere with the local broadcast stations some miles away, when tuned exactly to a station; but if the orientation of the radio with its built in antenna was changed interference was apparent on a number of frequencies particularly in the low end of the AM 'Broadcast Band' e.g. around 600 to 900 kilohertz. Unfortunately I discarded the package, but I'm pretty sure it was labeled "Complies with UL and CSA (Canadian Standards Association)". I intend to go back to the store and get the details from an identical package. Unless I happened to buy the one defective unit bought randomly, in a batch, it seems strange that a device that radiates such noticeable interference should be sold in North America. Anyone have similar experience? And maybe this comment may avoid some unintentional RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). Cheers. Terry. I've bought 13W lamps that say they are the equivalent of 60W, so 15W lamps equivalent to 75W sounds about right. However, the claims are high. It use to be that fluorescent lamps provide the same light output as incandescent lamps with 4 times the wattage. In my experience that is still true. My 13 W lamps were dimmer than a 60 W incandescent and I would say it is close to a 50W incandescent light output. If your 15W lamp is equivalent to only a 40W incandescent, then it is a very poor lamp. I was very pleased with the color of mine which was a little warm as I generally dislike fluorescent lights. However, they will not work in a high heat fixture such as parallel arm desk lamps with a closed funnel type of reflector. I put one in and after a few weeks it sputtered and the base burned up. It seems to me that the best application is fixtures where the base is down. They worked well in bathroom horizontal fixture and in an outside fixture, but my wife did not like the limited light output and a larger fluorescent would not fit, so I took them out. The continuous on idea is just the remnants of an old fiction. When fluorescents first came out we were told that it was much better to leave them on and not switch them on and off if you were coming back into the room in an hour or two. It wasn't correct then and it isn't correct now from an economic point. The current recommendation is anything under a 10 minute interval, you should leave them on. I didn't find any RFI from my bulbs when they were installed. I just tested one of them again at the bottom of the AM dial. There is hum there, probably from my computer, but turning the bulb on and off made no difference and the bulb was only 2 feet from the radio. |
#7
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
Michael Daly wrote:
I've only used the more expensive types, usually bought on sale. I've never seen any at $2.99 - I pay about $8-$10 apiece. I saw some at the dollar store for a buck. -- We now return you to our normally scheduled programming. Take a look at this little cutie! ;-) http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.terrell/photos.html Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
#8
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
I have been getting the spiral version screw in subs here in Detroit area 4
for $7 +change IIRC, no noise problems. But, when started in cold locations, they start very dim, take about 2 mins to come up to full. Mark Oppat "Terry" wrote in message . .. Recently attracted by the low price ($2.99) for a single fluorescent (screw in replacement for a regular lamp/bulb) package I decided to try one in the outside fixture over our front door. Previously I had only seen them in packages of two ranging in price from $10 to $19. The package claims such things as "Uses 15 watts but gives as much light as 75 watts". (Not that I've ever seen a 75 watt bulb AFIK). I've understood that these 'fluorescents' last longest and work best when left on continuously. Since our outdoor light is usually on all night it seemed like good bet! And might save some electricity. So I removed the 'long life' incandescent, which I understand is basically a 130 volt bulb running on 115 volts? That lighting circuit is served from a circuit breaker sub-panel next to the kitchen at one end of the house. Changing the lamp requires the use of a step ladder; so in the current winter weather the idea of a long life bulb was also attractive! The results were disappointing to say the least. Even after an hour or so when the lamp/bulb had warmed up the light out put was low; less, I estimated than a cheap 40 watt incandescent. The colour of the light was poor; a sort of washed out white. The lamp is also physically longer so it won't fit in some fixtures unless one were to modify them. However; and the main reason for posting this here, is that it caused significant radio interference to the bedside radio some 50 feet away plugged into a wall socket fed from a completely separate circuit from the main circuit breaker panel. The interference was not sufficient to interfere with the local broadcast stations some miles away, when tuned exactly to a station; but if the orientation of the radio with its built in antenna was changed interference was apparent on a number of frequencies particularly in the low end of the AM 'Broadcast Band' e.g. around 600 to 900 kilohertz. Unfortunately I discarded the package, but I'm pretty sure it was labeled "Complies with UL and CSA (Canadian Standards Association)". I intend to go back to the store and get the details from an identical package. Unless I happened to buy the one defective unit bought randomly, in a batch, it seems strange that a device that radiates such noticeable interference should be sold in North America. Anyone have similar experience? And maybe this comment may avoid some unintentional RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). Cheers. Terry. |
#9
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
"Terry" wrote in message . .. Recently attracted by the low price ($2.99) for a single fluorescent (screw in replacement for a regular lamp/bulb) package I decided to try one in the outside fixture over our front door. Previously I had only seen them in packages of two ranging in price from $10 to $19. The package claims such things as "Uses 15 watts but gives as much light as 75 watts". (Not that I've ever seen a 75 watt bulb AFIK). I've understood that these 'fluorescents' last longest and work best when left on continuously. Since our outdoor light is usually on all night it seemed like good bet! And might save some electricity. So I removed the 'long life' incandescent, which I understand is basically a 130 volt bulb running on 115 volts? That lighting circuit is served from a circuit breaker sub-panel next to the kitchen at one end of the house. Changing the lamp requires the use of a step ladder; so in the current winter weather the idea of a long life bulb was also attractive! The results were disappointing to say the least. Even after an hour or so when the lamp/bulb had warmed up the light out put was low; less, I estimated than a cheap 40 watt incandescent. The colour of the light was poor; a sort of washed out white. The lamp is also physically longer so it won't fit in some fixtures unless one were to modify them. However; and the main reason for posting this here, is that it caused significant radio interference to the bedside radio some 50 feet away plugged into a wall socket fed from a completely separate circuit from the main circuit breaker panel. The interference was not sufficient to interfere with the local broadcast stations some miles away, when tuned exactly to a station; but if the orientation of the radio with its built in antenna was changed interference was apparent on a number of frequencies particularly in the low end of the AM 'Broadcast Band' e.g. around 600 to 900 kilohertz. Unfortunately I discarded the package, but I'm pretty sure it was labeled "Complies with UL and CSA (Canadian Standards Association)". I intend to go back to the store and get the details from an identical package. Unless I happened to buy the one defective unit bought randomly, in a batch, it seems strange that a device that radiates such noticeable interference should be sold in North America. Anyone have similar experience? And maybe this comment may avoid some unintentional RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). Cheers. Terry. Been using them for several years. The only one I had any problems with at all was one that was from some unknown company, and cost much less than what the others did. As some one else on this thread mentioned, I guess you get what you pay for. Hound Dog |
#10
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
I have been using compact fluorescent bulbs for over 16
years. I've found that many of the "off-brand" bulbs are junky: I've experienced premature burnout, whining bulbs (maddening, like a mosquito), dreadful light color (someone mentioned the Ikea bulbs), and poor light output. Most will not deliver the long life that the claims imply. They tend to fail due to inabilty to dissipate heat (electronics in sealed bases) and the bulbs just wear out. These days, I buy them really cheap because of the failure/high cost issue. With rebates, I've even gotten them for less than a buck each. My solution lately is to buy the Feit brand in bulk at Costco. I pay more of a Chinese price for a Chinese lightbulb. When more than half the bulbs are shot, I take the entire package back to Costco for a refund. That's their policy where I live for multiple items in one package. This is how I deal with premature bulb failures nowadays. Most of the recent bulbs are more efficient than the former ones. Those came on full. The new ones come up to full brightness slowly, giving full candelpowers in about one or two minutes. I've used them successfully in outdoor fixtures, left on continuously. Dampness doesn't seem to bother them since they're moderately-well sealed (but there's a price for this). I can't say how they work in really cold weather because it almost never gets down to freezing here. As far as RFI goes, I don't listen to AM radio, so I can't comment. On FM and TV, there's little or no interfereance from the bulbs I've used. You may have noticed the FCC statement on many products in recent years, "...must accept interference." Whatever was the person who wrote those words smoking? What was the supervisor smoking? We're still paying Enronesque electric rates here in California. Our Administration has not seen fit, so far, to get our money back for us. I wonder why. When the electric rates tripled in San Diego, people raced to buy the compact fluorescent bulbs: I saw them everywhere. Richard "Terry" wrote in message . .. Recently attracted by the low price ($2.99) for a single fluorescent (screw in replacement for a regular lamp/bulb) package I decided to try one in the outside fixture over our front door. Previously I had only seen them in packages of two ranging in price from $10 to $19. The package claims such things as "Uses 15 watts but gives as much light as 75 watts". (Not that I've ever seen a 75 watt bulb AFIK). I've understood that these 'fluorescents' last longest and work best when left on continuously. Since our outdoor light is usually on all night it seemed like good bet! And might save some electricity. So I removed the 'long life' incandescent, which I understand is basically a 130 volt bulb running on 115 volts? That lighting circuit is served from a circuit breaker sub-panel next to the kitchen at one end of the house. Changing the lamp requires the use of a step ladder; so in the current winter weather the idea of a long life bulb was also attractive! The results were disappointing to say the least. Even after an hour or so when the lamp/bulb had warmed up the light out put was low; less, I estimated than a cheap 40 watt incandescent. The colour of the light was poor; a sort of washed out white. The lamp is also physically longer so it won't fit in some fixtures unless one were to modify them. However; and the main reason for posting this here, is that it caused significant radio interference to the bedside radio some 50 feet away plugged into a wall socket fed from a completely separate circuit from the main circuit breaker panel. The interference was not sufficient to interfere with the local broadcast stations some miles away, when tuned exactly to a station; but if the orientation of the radio with its built in antenna was changed interference was apparent on a number of frequencies particularly in the low end of the AM 'Broadcast Band' e.g. around 600 to 900 kilohertz. Unfortunately I discarded the package, but I'm pretty sure it was labeled "Complies with UL and CSA (Canadian Standards Association)". I intend to go back to the store and get the details from an identical package. Unless I happened to buy the one defective unit bought randomly, in a batch, it seems strange that a device that radiates such noticeable interference should be sold in North America. Anyone have similar experience? And maybe this comment may avoid some unintentional RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). Cheers. Terry. |
#11
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
I have been getting the spiral version screw-in subs here...
It's called an Edison base. Anyone in an antique-radio group should know this. grin |
#12
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
Hound Dog wrote:
Been using them for several years. The only one I had any problems with at all was one that was from some unknown company, and cost much less than what the others did. As some one else on this thread mentioned, I guess you get what you pay for. My local power company Pubic Service Electric and Gas and the NJ EPA(?) has been subsidivising(sp) CFLs lately. Final cost around a buck or two. And no significant RFI. |
#13
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
Bought 4 cases of 6 "R-30" at the Borg for 5.00 a case minus a 2.00 utility
rebate. (These bulbe were on closeout.) I replaced some hi-hat bulbs with no RF inteference at all, however, you have to change the dimmer back to a switch CFs don't work on dimmers even when only used at full power. Next I'm buying (seen at Cosco as well) a few packs of 3 Par40 replacements but they're around 15.00 for 3 bulbs. Seen them in use on a home near me and they look just as bright as a 150 watt flood. |
#14
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
"Richard Steinfeld" wrote in message ...
I have been using compact fluorescent bulbs for over 16 years. I've found that many of the "off-brand" bulbs are junky: I've experienced premature burnout, whining bulbs (maddening, like a mosquito), dreadful light color (someone mentioned the Ikea bulbs), and poor light output. Most will not deliver the long life that the claims imply. They tend to fail due to inabilty to dissipate heat (electronics in sealed bases) and the bulbs just wear out. These days, I buy them really cheap because of the failure/high cost issue. With rebates, I've even gotten them for less than a buck each. My solution lately is to buy the Feit brand in bulk at Costco. I pay more of a Chinese price for a Chinese lightbulb. When more than half the bulbs are shot, I take the entire package back to Costco for a refund. That's their policy where I live for multiple items in one package. This is how I deal with premature bulb failures nowadays. Most of the recent bulbs are more efficient than the former ones. Those came on full. The new ones come up to full brightness slowly, giving full candelpowers in about one or two minutes. I've used them successfully in outdoor fixtures, left on continuously. Dampness doesn't seem to bother them since they're moderately-well sealed (but there's a price for this). I can't say how they work in really cold weather because it almost never gets down to freezing here. As far as RFI goes, I don't listen to AM radio, so I can't comment. On FM and TV, there's little or no interfereance from the bulbs I've used. You may have noticed the FCC statement on many products in recent years, "...must accept interference." Whatever was the person who wrote those words smoking? What was the supervisor smoking? We're still paying Enronesque electric rates here in California. Our Administration has not seen fit, so far, to get our money back for us. I wonder why. When the electric rates tripled in San Diego, people raced to buy the compact fluorescent bulbs: I saw them everywhere. After the election I heard talk that your pal Arnold was not going to try and reclaim any of the money that was bled from the state from the energy companies as he thought it would do no good toward the state moving forward or something....Im sure a google search would turn up more but the gist of it is that the toimenator isnt going to a thing about it..... As for "screw in" flourescents.....had my hands on a couple at Home Cheapo a while back but put them back, think they were 8.00 each.......but I still want to try them. Think I'll go to an electrical supply house where I know they will be cheaper. I would like to try one in my desk lamp and my above sink bathroom fixture. Richard "Terry" wrote in message . .. Recently attracted by the low price ($2.99) for a single fluorescent (screw in replacement for a regular lamp/bulb) package I decided to try one in the outside fixture over our front door. Previously I had only seen them in packages of two ranging in price from $10 to $19. The package claims such things as "Uses 15 watts but gives as much light as 75 watts". (Not that I've ever seen a 75 watt bulb AFIK). I've understood that these 'fluorescents' last longest and work best when left on continuously. Since our outdoor light is usually on all night it seemed like good bet! And might save some electricity. So I removed the 'long life' incandescent, which I understand is basically a 130 volt bulb running on 115 volts? That lighting circuit is served from a circuit breaker sub-panel next to the kitchen at one end of the house. Changing the lamp requires the use of a step ladder; so in the current winter weather the idea of a long life bulb was also attractive! The results were disappointing to say the least. Even after an hour or so when the lamp/bulb had warmed up the light out put was low; less, I estimated than a cheap 40 watt incandescent. The colour of the light was poor; a sort of washed out white. The lamp is also physically longer so it won't fit in some fixtures unless one were to modify them. However; and the main reason for posting this here, is that it caused significant radio interference to the bedside radio some 50 feet away plugged into a wall socket fed from a completely separate circuit from the main circuit breaker panel. The interference was not sufficient to interfere with the local broadcast stations some miles away, when tuned exactly to a station; but if the orientation of the radio with its built in antenna was changed interference was apparent on a number of frequencies particularly in the low end of the AM 'Broadcast Band' e.g. around 600 to 900 kilohertz. Unfortunately I discarded the package, but I'm pretty sure it was labeled "Complies with UL and CSA (Canadian Standards Association)". I intend to go back to the store and get the details from an identical package. Unless I happened to buy the one defective unit bought randomly, in a batch, it seems strange that a device that radiates such noticeable interference should be sold in North America. Anyone have similar experience? And maybe this comment may avoid some unintentional RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). Cheers. Terry. |
#15
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
On Sat, 17 Jan 2004 11:16:27 GMT, "Richard Steinfeld"
wrote: Most will not deliver the long life that the claims imply. They tend to fail due to inabilty to dissipate heat (electronics in sealed bases) and the bulbs just wear out. These days, I buy them really cheap because of the failure/high cost issue. With rebates, I've even gotten them for less than a buck each. I have these exclusively in my home, and have found that the life of these things has almost nothing to do with the frequency of usage; instead it depends almost solely on the design of the fixture the bulbs are used in. If the BASE of the fixture is wide open (you can easily touch the base of the bulb while it's screwed into the socket), the bulbs seem to last a long time. If the base is at all enlcosed or covered, the life is a lot shorter. Also, I've noticed that bulbs hanging straight down tend to have a longer life than those that are mounted at a 45 or 90 degree angle. The difference in life is quite dramatic. The bulbs that are used in my daughter's bedroom (three of them in a 90 degree mounted enclosed decorative fixture) all burned out in 6 to 9 months. Three of them used in an enclosed 45 degree angled ceiling fan fixture in our living room failed within a year. The bulbs in our bathroom routinely fail also (enclosed base, 90 degree mounted). On the other hand, NONE of the bulbs in my son's bedroom (six of them in track lighting fixtures hanging almost straight down) have failed in almost two years of constant use. Neither has any the of bulbs in our kitchen (one standing straight up, the other hanging straight down, both fixtures with wide open bases. Ditto with the units in our garage (hanging straight down, wide open bases). So, it depends on the design of the fixtures in your house. I continue to use 'em everywhere because I can't argue with the savings. My solution lately is to buy the Feit brand in bulk at Costco. I pay more of a Chinese price for a Chinese lightbulb. When more than half the bulbs are shot, I take the entire package back to Costco for a refund. That's their policy where I live for multiple items in one package. This is how I deal with premature bulb failures nowadays. I just toss 'em. Bought in bulk with a rebate, they're about twice as expensive as an incandescent. With the reduced energy costs over the life of the bulb, it comes out about even on the ones with a shortened life. Most of the recent bulbs are more efficient than the former ones. Those came on full. The new ones come up to full brightness slowly, giving full candelpowers in about one or two minutes. I've used them successfully in outdoor fixtures, left on continuously. Dampness doesn't seem to bother them since they're moderately-well sealed (but there's a price for this). I can't say how they work in really cold weather because it almost never gets down to freezing here. I would recommend NOT to use the regular bulbs in outdoor fixtures, unless they are very well enclosed. The FEIT bulbs you mentioned even admonish not to do this in text written right on the base of the bulb. The integrity of the sealed base to water is not absolute, and I have seen those bulbs fizzle out in a puff of smoke when used outdoors. BEWARE! If you need outdoor CF bulbs, they are available. I'm using several flood replacements outdoors as we speak, and they seem to work very well, with a long life so far (more than a year now). As far as RFI goes, I don't listen to AM radio, so I can't comment. On FM and TV, there's little or no interfereance from the bulbs I've used. It's hit or miss, even with the same bulbs on different days. Sometimes there AM interference, sometimes not. These bulbs use an electronic ballast so some AM interference is almost mandatory. You may have noticed the FCC statement on many products in recent years, "...must accept interference." Whatever was the person who wrote those words smoking? What was the supervisor smoking? Those words are FCC-speak for "we're too damn lazy to force manufacturers of this noisy crap to change their ways, so YOU deal with it." Back in the old days, this "must accept interference" tag was only allowed to be used on equipment that was intended to be used in office buildings. Now it has slowly but surely creeped into devices used in the home. Funny how that happens....... We're still paying Enronesque electric rates here in California. Our Administration has not seen fit, so far, to get our money back for us. I wonder why. (Soapbox ON) It's simple really. If Bush actually did anything to right this wrong, it would upset the energy buddies in Texas that have him firmly in their pockets. Actually getting the money back for us that Enron ripped from us would require a couple more testicles than Mr. Bush has, so it won't happen. One of many reason I won't be voting for our incumbent President in November. When the electric rates tripled in San Diego, people raced to buy the compact fluorescent bulbs: I saw them everywhere. It wouldn't surprise me....... San Diego was the first sign that energy deregulation in California was going to be a costly fiasco. That the politicians did nothing about it at that time, when it was still possible to reverse gears, speaks volumes about the leadership qualities and priorities of our folks in Sacramento and Washington. (Soapbox OFF) -Scott Richard "Terry" wrote in message ... Recently attracted by the low price ($2.99) for a single fluorescent (screw in replacement for a regular lamp/bulb) package I decided to try one in the outside fixture over our front door. Previously I had only seen them in packages of two ranging in price from $10 to $19. The package claims such things as "Uses 15 watts but gives as much light as 75 watts". (Not that I've ever seen a 75 watt bulb AFIK). I've understood that these 'fluorescents' last longest and work best when left on continuously. Since our outdoor light is usually on all night it seemed like good bet! And might save some electricity. So I removed the 'long life' incandescent, which I understand is basically a 130 volt bulb running on 115 volts? That lighting circuit is served from a circuit breaker sub-panel next to the kitchen at one end of the house. Changing the lamp requires the use of a step ladder; so in the current winter weather the idea of a long life bulb was also attractive! The results were disappointing to say the least. Even after an hour or so when the lamp/bulb had warmed up the light out put was low; less, I estimated than a cheap 40 watt incandescent. The colour of the light was poor; a sort of washed out white. The lamp is also physically longer so it won't fit in some fixtures unless one were to modify them. However; and the main reason for posting this here, is that it caused significant radio interference to the bedside radio some 50 feet away plugged into a wall socket fed from a completely separate circuit from the main circuit breaker panel. The interference was not sufficient to interfere with the local broadcast stations some miles away, when tuned exactly to a station; but if the orientation of the radio with its built in antenna was changed interference was apparent on a number of frequencies particularly in the low end of the AM 'Broadcast Band' e.g. around 600 to 900 kilohertz. Unfortunately I discarded the package, but I'm pretty sure it was labeled "Complies with UL and CSA (Canadian Standards Association)". I intend to go back to the store and get the details from an identical package. Unless I happened to buy the one defective unit bought randomly, in a batch, it seems strange that a device that radiates such noticeable interference should be sold in North America. Anyone have similar experience? And maybe this comment may avoid some unintentional RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). Cheers. Terry. DO NOT REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE AT THE EMAIL ADDRESS ABOVE! Instead, go to the following web page to get my real email address: http://member.newsguy.com/~polezi/scottsaddy.htm (This has been done because I am sick of SPAMMERS making my email unusable) |
#16
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
Terry who originally posted as follows;
"Terry" wrote in message . .. Recently attracted by the low price ($2.99) for a single fluorescent (screw in replacement for a regular lamp/bulb) package I decided to try one in the outside fixture over our front door. .... snip ... etc. Terry now says; Thank you for the many replies, comments and advice. I have to agree with most of them. Especially "The you get what you pay for"! I do suspect that this was an 'el cheapo' imported brand of lamp and recommendations to use a 'good' brand suitable for North American, especially Canadian (low temperature etc.) conditions are well taken. A lot of useful and knowledgeable information and a touch of humour in many of the replies; btw I did think it was worthwhile to mention the RFI factor as well. To the many posters who have replied and shared their information, thank you. Terry. PS. Someone asked about our electricity cost; here it averages 8.6 cents Canadian or roughly 6.7 cents US (and 3.8 pence UK?) per kilowatt hour. This is based on the total (basic monthly account charge, kilowatt hour consumption at 6.77 cents/kw.hr Can. and all sales taxes) divided by number of kilowatts, for a typical winter month. All electric house btw. |
#17
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
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#18
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
I replaced about half our incandescant bulbs with compact flourescents,
about a year ago. We use everything from 10W for bedside reading lights to 23W in the laundry room. Some are left on almost continuously, and others get switched on and off a dozen times in a day. We have yet to have one burn out. I do use a compact flourescent in in our exterior light, only in summer, and only in a weather protected, but open fixture. During the winter, that bulb gets replaced by a standard incandescant bulb. The CF has the additional benefit of not attracting bugs. We undertook a large number of energy conservation measures, at the time we switched over our lighting, so it's difficult to quantify the effect of switching bulbs, alone, but I can tell you we have cut our power consumption almost in half. Rob |
#19
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
Here in AZ, I live in a housing development where each house has two
outside light fixtures that are on all the time - they are not on switches. Makes the area inviting, don'cha know, to have each house lighted at night, and I kind of agree. Some homeowners remove the bulbs or simply let them burn out, but then the HOA comes after you. Since I am here only 6 months of the year, but the lights burn all 12 months, I put small flourescents in both fixtures. I learned a few things. 1. You're right - they are too stubby to fit in the standard outdoor fixtures. But most any hardware store, Wal-Mart, etc, has short "socket extenders" that get you past this. 2. Color doesn't matter in an outside light, IMHO. You're looking for illumination, not artwork. 3. Brightness is hard to judge by eyeball. Incandescents look brighter because they are a point source of light, whereas fluorescents are an extended source. However, I found that if I put a 60-watt-equivalent fluorescent in one fixture and a 60-watt incandescent in the other, waited until dark, and then stepped back from the house and out into the street, they appeared to wash an equal amount of light down the wall and into the yard. 4. UL/CSA and RFI don't have any connection with each other. UL/CSA are safety organizations. 5. It doesn't get cold enough here to cause light output to drop - but I tried the same thing in Maine, and sure enough, the lamps barely light when the temp dips below about 50F. Bill Jeffrey =============================== Terry wrote: Recently attracted by the low price ($2.99) for a single fluorescent (screw in replacement for a regular lamp/bulb) package I decided to try one in the outside fixture over our front door. Previously I had only seen them in packages of two ranging in price from $10 to $19. The package claims such things as "Uses 15 watts but gives as much light as 75 watts". (Not that I've ever seen a 75 watt bulb AFIK). I've understood that these 'fluorescents' last longest and work best when left on continuously. Since our outdoor light is usually on all night it seemed like good bet! And might save some electricity. So I removed the 'long life' incandescent, which I understand is basically a 130 volt bulb running on 115 volts? That lighting circuit is served from a circuit breaker sub-panel next to the kitchen at one end of the house. Changing the lamp requires the use of a step ladder; so in the current winter weather the idea of a long life bulb was also attractive! The results were disappointing to say the least. Even after an hour or so when the lamp/bulb had warmed up the light out put was low; less, I estimated than a cheap 40 watt incandescent. The colour of the light was poor; a sort of washed out white. The lamp is also physically longer so it won't fit in some fixtures unless one were to modify them. However; and the main reason for posting this here, is that it caused significant radio interference to the bedside radio some 50 feet away plugged into a wall socket fed from a completely separate circuit from the main circuit breaker panel. The interference was not sufficient to interfere with the local broadcast stations some miles away, when tuned exactly to a station; but if the orientation of the radio with its built in antenna was changed interference was apparent on a number of frequencies particularly in the low end of the AM 'Broadcast Band' e.g. around 600 to 900 kilohertz. Unfortunately I discarded the package, but I'm pretty sure it was labeled "Complies with UL and CSA (Canadian Standards Association)". I intend to go back to the store and get the details from an identical package. Unless I happened to buy the one defective unit bought randomly, in a batch, it seems strange that a device that radiates such noticeable interference should be sold in North America. Anyone have similar experience? And maybe this comment may avoid some unintentional RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). Cheers. Terry. |
#20
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
Do they make "daylight spectrum" CF bulbs? I haven't noticed any when out
shopping. A couple of years ago I replaced about 120 of the "standard" 40W foor foot flourescents in our business' offices with the "daylight spectrum" kind and everyone loved them and said that they felt noticably "better" than they did when working under the light of the "regular ones". They cost about double what the standard color ones did at HD, but I'm glad we put them in, and we haven't had one burn out yet, so they must be pretty well made. Jeff -- Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "If you can smile when things are going wrong, you've thought of someone to blame it on." Terry wrote: Recently attracted by the low price ($2.99) for a single fluorescent (screw in replacement for a regular lamp/bulb) package I decided to try one in the outside fixture over our front door. I use a pair of CFs in our front door's outside fixtures. They've held up for about three years now, but boy, are they dim at turnon in the weather we've been having here in Red Sox country this week. Oh well, maybe it'll get cold enough so Hell will freeze over. And the Red Sox will win the world series...G snipped |
#21
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
Yup -
See, for example https://www.1000bulbs.com/product.php?product=3517 https://www.1000bulbs.com/category.php?category=2 Bill Jeffrey ================ Jeff Wisnia wrote: Do they make "daylight spectrum" CF bulbs? I haven't noticed any when out shopping. |
#22
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
040117 1236 - Specter wrote:
I replaced about half our incandescant bulbs with compact flourescents, about a year ago. We use everything from 10W for bedside reading lights to 23W in the laundry room. Some are left on almost continuously, and others get switched on and off a dozen times in a day. We have yet to have one burn out. I do use a compact flourescent in in our exterior light, only in summer, and only in a weather protected, but open fixture. During the winter, that bulb gets replaced by a standard incandescant bulb. The CF has the additional benefit of not attracting bugs. We undertook a large number of energy conservation measures, at the time we switched over our lighting, so it's difficult to quantify the effect of switching bulbs, alone, but I can tell you we have cut our power consumption almost in half. Rob I used to use a 40 watt incandescant bulb in the vent hood over the stove and had problems with burnout often, like about every couple of months. I replaced it finally with one of those fluorescent lamps and it is a brighter light and runs cooler drawing less wattage. That was a couple of years ago and have had no problems with it. |
#23
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
After the election I heard talk that your pal Arnold was
not going to try and reclaim any of the money that was bled from the state from the energy companies as he thought it would do no good toward the state moving forward or something....Im sure a google search would turn up more but the gist of it is that the toimenator isnt going to a thing about it..... My Dear Corny, He ain't my pal. I didn't vote for him. I voted for the other guy. Arnold sounds like a nice, sincere, idealistic, and confused guy who now has to act in an unfamiliar role and doesn't know his lines. Unfortunately, Arnold has been hanging around with suspect individuals. For example, Pete Wilson (who engineered the whole deregulated power mess in the first place) and our very own personal bad-guy, Kenneth Lay. But this is getting off topic, isn't it: "Buy Tubes Y'all. Use More Electricity!" Richard |
#24
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
"Scott W. Harvey" wrote in message ... On Sat, 17 Jan 2004 11:16:27 GMT, "Richard Steinfeld" wrote: I have these exclusively in my home, and have found that the life of these things has almost nothing to do with the frequency of usage; instead it depends almost solely on the design of the fixture the bulbs are used in. If the BASE of the fixture is wide open (you can easily touch the base of the bulb while it's screwed into the socket), the bulbs seem to last a long time. If the base is at all enlcosed or covered, the life is a lot shorter. Also, I've noticed that bulbs hanging straight down tend to have a longer life than those that are mounted at a 45 or 90 degree angle. The difference in life is quite dramatic. The bulbs that are used in my daughter's bedroom (three of them in a 90 degree mounted enclosed decorative fixture) all burned out in 6 to 9 months. Three of them used in an enclosed 45 degree angled ceiling fan fixture in our living room failed within a year. The bulbs in our bathroom routinely fail also (enclosed base, 90 degree mounted). On the other hand, NONE of the bulbs in my son's bedroom (six of them in track lighting fixtures hanging almost straight down) have failed in almost two years of constant use. Neither has any the of bulbs in our kitchen (one standing straight up, the other hanging straight down, both fixtures with wide open bases. Ditto with the units in our garage (hanging straight down, wide open bases). So, it depends on the design of the fixtures in your house. I continue to use 'em everywhere because I can't argue with the savings. This seems to prove the point: we're talking about heat dissipation, plain and simple. Watch those bases turn dark brown! I would recommend NOT to use the regular bulbs in outdoor fixtures, unless they are very well enclosed. The FEIT bulbs you mentioned even admonish not to do this in text written right on the base of the bulb. The integrity of the sealed base to water is not absolute, and I have seen those bulbs fizzle out in a puff of smoke when used outdoors. BEWARE! If you need outdoor CF bulbs, they are available. I'm using several flood replacements outdoors as we speak, and they seem to work very well, with a long life so far (more than a year now). I'm getting long life from various of these in one outdoor fixture. The bulb is mounted upside down and the fixture is sheltered at the top, open at the bottom. I wouldn't reverse this setup, however: poof!, I'm sure. As far as RFI goes, I don't listen to AM radio, so I can't comment. On FM and TV, there's little or no interfereance from the bulbs I've used. It's hit or miss, even with the same bulbs on different days. Sometimes there AM interference, sometimes not. These bulbs use an electronic ballast so some AM interference is almost mandatory. I'd think so. There's just nothing on AM radio for me any more. Just one yelling extremist talk show host after another. They all sound the same. I'm bored. You may have noticed the FCC statement on many products in recent years, "...must accept interference." Whatever was the person who wrote those words smoking? What was the supervisor smoking? Those words are FCC-speak for "we're too damn lazy to force manufacturers of this noisy crap to change their ways, so YOU deal with it." Yeah. But such language! I mean, "must" accept interference. Therefore, the product may not reject the interference? Someone wrote those words. Someone else approved those words. Is anyone minding the store? We're still paying Enronesque electric rates here in California. Our Administration has not seen fit, so far, to get our money back for us. I wonder why. (Soapbox ON) It's simple really. If Bush actually did anything to right this wrong, it would upset the energy buddies in Texas that have him firmly in their pockets. Actually getting the money back for us that Enron ripped from us would require a couple more testicles than Mr. Bush has, so it won't happen. One of many reason I won't be voting for our incumbent President in November. Thank you. I thought I'd leave if for others to fill in the blanks. When the electric rates tripled in San Diego, people raced to buy the compact fluorescent bulbs: I saw them everywhere. It wouldn't surprise me....... San Diego was the first sign that energy deregulation in California was going to be a costly fiasco. That the politicians did nothing about it at that time, when it was still possible to reverse gears, speaks volumes about the leadership qualities and priorities of our folks in Sacramento and Washington. Yes. I agree. I saw it coming too. It was the first. Admittedly, I don't think that we got it so badly here in Northern California. It must have been one hell of a shock for the people in the San Diego area when their power costs tripled: Whomp!!! Manditory radio content: Use of vacuum tubes is known to cause problems to your (financial) health. In California, I mean. Richard |
#25
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
PS. Someone asked about our electricity cost; here it
averages 8.6 cents Canadian or roughly 6.7 cents US (and 3.8 pence UK?) per kilowatt hour. This is based on the total (basic monthly account charge, kilowatt hour consumption at 6.77 cents/kw.hr Can. and all sales taxes) divided by number of kilowatts, for a typical winter month. All electric house btw. I'm sobbing into my beer right now. My electric rate is tiered: the more you use, the more you pay. I'm fairly frugal, although we've got no gas heat to two bedrooms and use electric heaters for both of them. The highest tier I'm paying is 45 cents US per KWH. For this, I have Pete Wilson and Geo W. Bush to thank, and soon, the Arnold (who wants even more of the deregulation fiasco that brought me this 45 cent rate). Richard |
#26
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
A couple of years ago I replaced about 120 of the
"standard" 40W foor foot flourescents in our business' offices with the "daylight spectrum" kind and everyone loved them and said that they felt noticably "better" than they did when working under the light of the "regular ones". They cost about double what the standard color ones did at HD, but I'm glad we put them in, and we haven't had one burn out yet, so they must be pretty well made. This has been an interesting thread. I've learned a few things. From my experience, I'm assuming that the newest bulbs I've used have a higher operating temperature then the last round. They are a bit more efficient, too. I read figures improved 30 percent. Regarding color spectrum: I tried a pair of Philips "daylight" tubes in the kitchen. The performance was dismal; one burned out in short order. Among compact fluorescents, I was most satisfied with the color spectrum of the first round of consumer bulbs from Lights of America (separate bases and bulbs). The newer ones are more efficient, but I think some of the color balance is sacrificed. Not a lot, just enough to be visible. I can live with them. One important difference between the "look and feel" of any fluorescent vs. an incandescent bulb: a traditional incandescent bulb has a continuous spectrum like daylight. Seen on comparitive graphs, the incandescent is tilted toward yellow vs. daylight: both graphs are nice and smooth. This is why it is a simple matter to correct for the color balance between daylight and tungsten photographic films using standard filters such as the 85b which converts professional motion picture negative film from tungsten bulbs to daylight: this is the standard filter of the motion picture industry and you see the beautiful results in outdoor shots of all comercial movies. Fluorescent output is a whole 'nother matter. The color spectrum is jagged, discontinuous. One can come somewhat close to a smooth graph in the aggragate (note: aggragate, averaged from jagged peaks). In reality, fluorescents have gaps in the spectrum: color frequencies that the bulbs don't put out at all! Therefore, it is not possible to perfectly compensate for this jaggedness with filtration. Such filters as the FLB and FLD come close, but there's no perfection here. Even the "daylight" bulbs don't quite match up. If you want to look at these graphs yourself, the best place I've found is professional motion picture technical manuals. The bulb manufacturers don't really give you the full picture. Richard |
#27
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
cornytheclown wrote:
After the election I heard talk that your pal Arnold was not going to try and reclaim any of the money that was bled from the state from the energy companies Yes, The Bush Justice Dept. had worked out a deal where the criminals would pay 10 % of the amount they stole back to California, and the rest would be forgiven. This covered their butts as they could say the claim was "settled". But Gov. Davis stood firmly in the way refusing to sign, so Ahhhhnold was picked as a suitable replacement. First thing he did as governator practically was sign the 10% settlement. I'm sure you Bu****es can come up with some reason why that's actually a good thing, or just the way the cookie crumbles. John H. |
#28
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
I KNOW that! But, you have mogul bases, medium bases, etc too. I wanted to
make it simple, as opposed to the bi-pin versions, common in europe, and we have international readers here.. who may not know it by the Edison name. In my past life as a sound, lighting and stage tech, I hung my share of PAR cans too. You know the industry standard designations of PAR lights? For instance, a USA home type outdoor spot is a PAR 38 bulb. The most common DJ light bulbs are PAR 46. The most common stage lighting bulbs were the PAR 56 or 64 cans. Can anyone guess what those numbers mean??? And what PAR means? No fair googling or such. Brains only. I know the answer. Stay tuned. Mark Oppat "William Sommerwerck" wrote in message ... I have been getting the spiral version screw-in subs here... It's called an Edison base. Anyone in an antique-radio group should know this. grin |
#29
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
On Sat, 17 Jan 2004 22:56:56 -0500 "Mark Oppat"
wrote: Can anyone guess what those numbers mean??? And what PAR means? Parabolic Aluminized Reflector. I'd have to guess that the numbers were a measure of diameter, probably in something like 8ths of an inch. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- |
#30
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
On Sat, 17 Jan 2004 14:18:27 -0500 Jeff Wisnia
wrote: Do they make "daylight spectrum" CF bulbs? I haven't noticed any when out shopping. A couple of years ago I replaced about 120 of the "standard" 40W foor foot flourescents in our business' offices with the "daylight spectrum" kind and everyone loved them and said that they felt noticably "better" than they did when working under the light of the "regular ones". They cost about double what the standard color ones did at HD, but I'm glad we put them in, and we haven't had one burn out yet, so they must be pretty well made. A mix of warm white and cool white bulbs will also help, at much less cost. I like about 2/3 cool white to 1/3 warm white. I've seen rooms 100% warm white and found them to be much too rosy. The women who worked there claimed to like it, however. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- |
#31
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
WE have a WINNER! Jim Adney!
Yes, "eighths of and inch" is what PAR numbers call out the diameter of the bulb in, and Parabolic Aluminized Reflector is what PAR means. Mark Oppat "Jim Adney" wrote in message ... On Sat, 17 Jan 2004 22:56:56 -0500 "Mark Oppat" wrote: Can anyone guess what those numbers mean??? And what PAR means? Parabolic Aluminized Reflector. I'd have to guess that the numbers were a measure of diameter, probably in something like 8ths of an inch. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- |
#32
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
On Sat, 17 Jan 2004 22:56:56 -0500, "Mark Oppat"
scribbled this interesting note: Can anyone guess what those numbers mean??? And what PAR means? No fair googling or such. Brains only. I know the answer. Stay tuned. Parabolic Anodized Reflector. -- John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me) |
#33
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
Sure. "PAR" is something like Parabolic Reflector, and "38" is 3.8-inch
bulb diameter. Who doesn't know that :-) ? Bill Jeffrey ==================== Mark Oppat wrote: You know the industry standard designations of PAR lights? For instance, a USA home type outdoor spot is a PAR 38 bulb. The most common DJ light bulbs are PAR 46. The most common stage lighting bulbs were the PAR 56 or 64 cans. Can anyone guess what those numbers mean??? And what PAR means? |
#34
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 02:36:22 -0500 "Mark Oppat"
wrote: WE have a WINNER! Jim Adney! Yes, "eighths of and inch" is what PAR numbers call out the diameter of the bulb in, and Parabolic Aluminized Reflector is what PAR means. Wow, what do I win? Note my separate post looking for a Magnoval socket, hint, hint.... ;-) - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- |
#35
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
For $10 at Home Depot you can get a 3 pack of 100W (I think they use
~23 watts of electricity) comact flourescents. They work fine in my basement, and even the rest of my house where it's often 50 degrees. Don't use them outside! And I get the warm white. Also, they take about 30 seconds to maybe 1 minute to get to full light output. If you want to save electricity, consider not having the light on all the time outdside. I know some people do that, but I'm not sure why. |
#36
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
Mark Oppat wrote:
WE have a WINNER! Jim Adney! Yes, "eighths of and inch" is what PAR numbers call out the diameter of the bulb in, and Parabolic Aluminized Reflector is what PAR means. Mark Oppat "Jim Adney" wrote in message ... On Sat, 17 Jan 2004 22:56:56 -0500 "Mark Oppat" wrote: Can anyone guess what those numbers mean??? And what PAR means? Parabolic Aluminized Reflector. I'd have to guess that the numbers were a measure of diameter, probably in something like 8ths of an inch. Aren't tube bulbs also measured in 8ths of an inch as well? So a T8 bulb would be one inch in dia? - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- |
#37
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A fluorescent bulb; replacing an incandescent.
After the election I heard talk that your pal Arnold was not going to try and reclaim any of the money that was bled from the state from the energy companies as he thought it would do no good toward the state moving forward or something....Im sure a google search would turn up more but the gist of it is that the toimenator isnt going to a thing about it..... That's the governator. |
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