Failing Fluorescent Fixtures
I have a fluorescent light fixture in my bathroom that won't fully
light up anymore. When I flick the switch, the bulbs come on to about 30% full brightness. If I leave them on for a long time (maybe a half an hour), they eventually kick on to full brightness. Obviously the bulbs aren't burned out. What do I need to do in order to "see the light?" Thanks. |
Failing Fluorescent Fixtures
I will suggest several things to check in the order I would check.
Are the lamps black at one or both ends? If so replace them (get the same type) Try removing and replacing the lamps. Bad contact is a possibility. Make sure the fixture is properly grounded. This is especially important in a bathroom as it is not only a functional issue, but a safety issue. Consider replacing the fixtures. I would tend to chose non-fluorescent fixtures. There are some safety concerns and at least some codes have banned them from bathrooms. Generally they are not good lights for bathrooms. The quality of light is not good and the short term use they generally get in a bathroom tends to negate their advantages. Remember that cold temperatures are a problem for many fluorescent lamps and that is likely why they just started having problems. Good Luck -- Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math "Fleemo" wrote in message om... I have a fluorescent light fixture in my bathroom that won't fully light up anymore. When I flick the switch, the bulbs come on to about 30% full brightness. If I leave them on for a long time (maybe a half an hour), they eventually kick on to full brightness. Obviously the bulbs aren't burned out. What do I need to do in order to "see the light?" Thanks. |
Failing Fluorescent Fixtures
Replace in order: bulbs, starter (be certain you match to bulb wattage),
ballast. You probably can't get a replacement ballast, so you will need to replace the entire fixture. "Fleemo" wrote in message om... I have a fluorescent light fixture in my bathroom that won't fully light up anymore. When I flick the switch, the bulbs come on to about 30% full brightness. If I leave them on for a long time (maybe a half an hour), they eventually kick on to full brightness. Obviously the bulbs aren't burned out. What do I need to do in order to "see the light?" Thanks. |
Failing Fluorescent Fixtures
Don't use flourescent bulbs in places where you are often turning on
and off the light. |
Failing Fluorescent Fixtures
Home Depot and Lowes sells replacement ballasts but you need to know
what to buy and they are expensive. Also hooking them up is not fun because the wires are usually too short. and you'll have to pigtail them to the old wires. Before replacing the ballast make sure it is wired tight. I started taking one apart to replace the ballast and found a loose wire was the culprit. "William W. Plummer" wrote in message news:HiiEb.390035$Dw6.1242677@attbi_s02... Replace in order: bulbs, starter (be certain you match to bulb wattage), ballast. You probably can't get a replacement ballast, so you will need to replace the entire fixture. "Fleemo" wrote in message om... I have a fluorescent light fixture in my bathroom that won't fully light up anymore. When I flick the switch, the bulbs come on to about 30% full brightness. If I leave them on for a long time (maybe a half an hour), they eventually kick on to full brightness. Obviously the bulbs aren't burned out. What do I need to do in order to "see the light?" Thanks. |
Failing Fluorescent Fixtures
An excellent time to upgrade to a high efficiency T-8 fixture with electronic ballast. Fluorescent lights should be used thruout your house for the excellent cost savings on your energy bill. And using a fluorescent light in the bathroom is extremely important if someone in your house uses that room to apply makeup. That's because most of the fluorescent lamps approach the color temperature of outdoors, stores and offices where they will be seen. And you have a choice in the color temperature when you replace the bulbs. Only idiots would not have a fluorescent in the bathroom. PJ On 18 Dec 2003 01:08:40 -0800, (Fleemo) wrote: I have a fluorescent light fixture in my bathroom that won't fully light up anymore. When I flick the switch, the bulbs come on to about 30% full brightness. If I leave them on for a long time (maybe a half an hour), they eventually kick on to full brightness. Obviously the bulbs aren't burned out. What do I need to do in order to "see the light?" Thanks. |
Failing Fluorescent Fixtures
Only idiots would not have a fluorescent in the bathroom.
That really depends upon how much time you spend there. Fluorescent bulbs are great if you are going to be there for a while or want to put in a bulb that gives off the equivalent of 150W bulb in the space a regular light bulb takes. Flourescent bulbs will die an early death is used in places where they are switched on and off a lot. I don't see why you would spend so much on a bulb that is going to die out before you recoup the energy savings. |
Failing Fluorescent Fixtures
Don't use "Cool White" bulbs in the bathroom or kitchen. They have a strong
blue content which makes zits and meat turn purple. "Warm White" is the pink equivalent which is much better in those places. "PJx" wrote in message ... An excellent time to upgrade to a high efficiency T-8 fixture with electronic ballast. Fluorescent lights should be used thruout your house for the excellent cost savings on your energy bill. And using a fluorescent light in the bathroom is extremely important if someone in your house uses that room to apply makeup. That's because most of the fluorescent lamps approach the color temperature of outdoors, stores and offices where they will be seen. And you have a choice in the color temperature when you replace the bulbs. Only idiots would not have a fluorescent in the bathroom. PJ On 18 Dec 2003 01:08:40 -0800, (Fleemo) wrote: I have a fluorescent light fixture in my bathroom that won't fully light up anymore. When I flick the switch, the bulbs come on to about 30% full brightness. If I leave them on for a long time (maybe a half an hour), they eventually kick on to full brightness. Obviously the bulbs aren't burned out. What do I need to do in order to "see the light?" Thanks. |
Failing Fluorescent Fixtures
quoting:
I have a fluorescent light fixture in my bathroom that won't fully light up anymore. When I flick the switch, the bulbs come on to about 30% full brightness. If I leave them on for a long time (maybe a half an hour), they eventually kick on to full brightness. Obviously the bulbs aren't burned out. What do I need to do in order to "see the light?" Thanks. What size are the bulbs? How many bulbs? |
Failing Fluorescent Fixtures
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Failing Fluorescent Fixtures
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Failing Fluorescent Fixtures
In article , Jack wrote:
(Don Klipstein) wrote: On 18 Dec 2003 01:08:40 -0800, (Fleemo) wrote: I have a fluorescent light fixture in my bathroom that won't fully light up anymore. When I flick the switch, the bulbs come on to about 30% full brightness. If I leave them on for a long time (maybe a half an hour), they eventually kick on to full brightness. Obviously the bulbs aren't burned out. What do I need to do in order to "see the light?" Does this have two 2-foot 1.5 inch diameter 20 watt bulbs? If so, then chances are you have the usual "trigger start" ballast for that. I see that dim performance, often with a little flickering, with those. Replacing both bulbs usually fixes this. Probably better would be to replace the ballast with one for two F17T8 "lamps" (bulbs), and then get two of those bulbs. You will probably need to get all of this from an electrical or electrical/lighting supply shop. Pay attention to the ballast wiring diagram on the label - it may be different from from the wiring of the old ballast. The F17T8 bulbs are available in different colors and two color rendering grades. My favorite is GE /SPX35, Philips /TL835, or Sylvania /D835 ("semi warm white" [my words] 3500 Kelvin, color rendering index in the low-mid 80's). - Don Klipstein ) I second earlier suggestions to replace both lamps and upgrade the ballast to an electronic model. But in bathroom, due to relatively frequent on/off cycles, lamps will fail relatively quickly on so-called instant or rapid start electronic ballasts. For replacement use only a programmed start el. ballast; pick brand name specifically for the lamps you have. Good programmed start ballast should start your lamps 30-40K times on average without any effects on the lamp life vs. few thousands only with a rapid start ballast. The best ballasts out there are able to do 500k (yes, half a milion!) on/off cycles and lamps still look like new. Rapid start and trigger start preheat the filaments as "program start" does. "Program start" is merely a version of "rapid start". In the older version of "rapid start" you get some lamp glow on cold or warming electrodes for about a second, but I see the starting-related wear from that being small compared to "instant start" which has near-full lamp current on cold electrodes and relies on lamp arc current to heat up the electrodes. I believe that most ballasts for T8 "lamps" are instant start - less-ideal for use in a bathroom, but T8 lamps are made for this and should only lose 10 minutes of life per start, maybe less. That's certainly more economical than keeping them on in a room mostly unoccupied mostly for a half hour or more per period of non-occupancy, and probably also more economical than usinmg incandescents. And more attractive than tolerating dual-20-watt "trigger start" systems being cranky! - Don Klipstein ) |
Failing Fluorescent Fixtures
(Don Klipstein) wrote in message ...
In article , Jack wrote: (Don Klipstein) wrote: On 18 Dec 2003 01:08:40 -0800, (Fleemo) wrote: I have a fluorescent light fixture in my bathroom that won't fully light up anymore. When I flick the switch, the bulbs come on to about 30% full brightness. If I leave them on for a long time (maybe a half an hour), they eventually kick on to full brightness. Obviously the bulbs aren't burned out. What do I need to do in order to "see the light?" Does this have two 2-foot 1.5 inch diameter 20 watt bulbs? If so, then chances are you have the usual "trigger start" ballast for that. I see that dim performance, often with a little flickering, with those. Replacing both bulbs usually fixes this. Probably better would be to replace the ballast with one for two F17T8 "lamps" (bulbs), and then get two of those bulbs. You will probably need to get all of this from an electrical or electrical/lighting supply shop. Pay attention to the ballast wiring diagram on the label - it may be different from from the wiring of the old ballast. The F17T8 bulbs are available in different colors and two color rendering grades. My favorite is GE /SPX35, Philips /TL835, or Sylvania /D835 ("semi warm white" [my words] 3500 Kelvin, color rendering index in the low-mid 80's). - Don Klipstein ) I second earlier suggestions to replace both lamps and upgrade the ballast to an electronic model. But in bathroom, due to relatively frequent on/off cycles, lamps will fail relatively quickly on so-called instant or rapid start electronic ballasts. For replacement use only a programmed start el. ballast; pick brand name specifically for the lamps you have. Good programmed start ballast should start your lamps 30-40K times on average without any effects on the lamp life vs. few thousands only with a rapid start ballast. The best ballasts out there are able to do 500k (yes, half a milion!) on/off cycles and lamps still look like new. Rapid start and trigger start preheat the filaments as "program start" does. "Program start" is merely a version of "rapid start". In the older version of "rapid start" you get some lamp glow on cold or warming electrodes for about a second, but I see the starting-related wear from that being small compared to "instant start" which has near-full lamp current on cold electrodes and relies on lamp arc current to heat up the electrodes. I believe that most ballasts for T8 "lamps" are instant start - less-ideal for use in a bathroom, but T8 lamps are made for this and should only lose 10 minutes of life per start, maybe less. That's certainly more economical than keeping them on in a room mostly unoccupied mostly for a half hour or more per period of non-occupancy, and probably also more economical than usinmg incandescents. And more attractive than tolerating dual-20-watt "trigger start" systems being cranky! - Don Klipstein ) I beg to disagree. Differences between rapid and programmed start are significant with quite dramatic effect on the lamps life (in electronic ballasts); refer to this link: http://www.universalballast.com/lite...rogrammed.html Moreover, contemporary rapid start el. ballasts due to their simple topology do not preheat filaments at all. They ignite lamps almost instantenously, similarly to instant start models. Please note that this study shows that rapid start is almost equivalent, almost as bad as instant start, which is in full agreement with my own observations. |
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